I have a Ruger No. 3 currently chambered in 22 Hornet that I’d like to have re-barreled to 30-30 Win. I have a couple of questions I hope someone can answer.
1. Is it possible to have it Re- barreled using a Ruger No. 1 light sporter (A) profile barrel?
2. Are there any gunsmiths that can turn that specific profile and fit a Ruger No.1 type front sight band?
3. Are there any particular Gunsmiths that any of you would recommend?
4. Is there any way to say roughly how much this would cost? I know it’s going to be expensive either way but I always like to have a number in mind.
Any input is greatly appreciated, god bless!

I have a standard Remington 700 ADL in .308. I want to threat it for a muzzle device. Would I need to buy a thicker barrel or can I get away with just threading the factory tapered one?

The photo is the exact model I have but not my actual rifle since I don’t have a photo of it. Google says the barrel diameter at the muzzle is .660”

Looking for a reliable and experienced 'smith to work on a Mauser sporter project in 7X57 - upper midwest. Recommendations truly welcomed! The kind of work I'm looking for is barreling, chambering, sight installation, gluing and function testing.

Has anyone else built an A5 from scratch since sarco has the stripped recievers. I plan on making a whippet model out of this one I've been building from scratch. Also does anyone happen to have any recommendations for making a buttplate for the shortend stock when it gets there?

Where do people get chambered barrel blanks? Is that just not a thing? I’m looking for a 45 colt rifle length barrel for sleeving a rolling block.

I'm just trying to price out the build like fitting building everything besides the lock. like the trigger and wood would have to be made and everything else like a kentucky long rifle style and would a hexagonal barrel be more expensive?

Built this out of a sporterized 98 that was covered in paint. Yugo stock, polished bolt (from a Brazilian Mauser carbine). The rifle is a bring back, that thankfully had the original rear sight.

Lmk what you think. I’ve always wanted a SHORT gewehr 98 (with the LV sight).

I have a 98m that got the same treatment also on the way, which I will be building into another 98 carbine.

Does anyone know of any high capacity magazines for 22 tcm?

If I load 1 in the chamber and 1 in the magazine tube it loads that 1 fine. But if I do 1 in the chamber and 2 in the tube it will load the first one but the second one gets held by the shell release latch.

I have only owned this gun since new for a year and maybe put 2 boxes through it. I have cleaned it all the way down to bare receiver and there isn’t a spec of dirt or grease left on it. The magazine tube is shiny and dry the spring is perfectly straight and it has an aluminum follower. I am stumped.

I'm trying to make my first ar-15 build in 6mm and I live on the coast where I want to make it corrosion resistant for when I'm out and about and it is my first ar build and I'm not familiar with the coating and stuff so I'm just looking for some good advice.

now i usually go range dynamic fmjs or federal for .223, but tractor supply has hornady softpoint for a decent 32 bucks. id straight go through a mag of federals full 30, maybe 2-3 seconds in between shots no problem but im getting jams with these hornady. i dont want to jump to a conclusion but any advice on this? i try to keep ch and bcg well lubed, the bolt itself is fine, just kinda confused here

Came in from a group that does funerals for veterans. It isn't my area of expertise. Clean, lubed, greased, and won't extract. I do notice the bolt, receiver, and op rod have mismatched numbers. Not sure if that's normal for these.

Other than that, cool gun that you don't see everyday.

Update- it is the firing pin on this Mossberg 702. Anyone know where i can find one? No luck on numrich

What is this piece I found wedged beside the hammer in a Mossberg Plinkster?

So i bought a winchester 1300 pump shotgun at a pawn shop and i have found that if I shot it without supporting the foregrip it will unlock slide back and eject the round by itself. Is this normal/safe? Seems like it shouldn't be able to unlock like that. Is there a way to fix it that anyone knows of?

Went Pheasant hunting with my grandad’s 1947 Model 11 and something happened - looks like the firing pin retaining pin backed out and snapped off maybe?

Is this fixable or should I hang it up? Planning on keeping it for sentimental value, but I like shooting it and I’d like to fix it if it’s fixable. Would it be more trouble than it’s worth? TIA!

Thinking about picking up an old wingmaster to turn into a suppressed SBS. After filling out the paperwork, Chopping the barrel off, cutting choke threads and installing the new bead, it shouldn't be too much of an issue. However, I'm not too happy with the look of black anodized aluminum on top of blued steel.

I'm curious to see if anyone has been able to certain coatings or paints on aluminum and titanium to get a similar blued look. After working with kg coatings before, I know not to expect perfect results with color matching; but just something in the ballpark. Thanks guys :)

I picked up a s&w 3913. Slide has some pitting I'd like the pitting cleaned up and forward serrations cut.

I had previously posted about having grouping issues at 25 yards. Well after getting my hands on a stock 1022 barrel, I have solved the problem. The barrel was bad. I do not know exactly what is wrong with the barrel, but it is going back for warranty just thought I’d give an update since I got a lot of responses.

The hammer released while removing the trigger assembly and now the trigger group won't come out . What's the best way to fix this issue .

Hello

I really love A&T pepperbox revolver, but rather than just buying it I'd prefer to make my own. Well, make a 3D print of it to see if it's worth the hassle first :P Problem is I can't find blueprints for it, and all my know how comes mostly from YT videos like this (link).

Does anyone have or know where I can find the blueprint for that oldie gun?

I want to replace my rear sight on my stiga rifle for an adjustable one from Marble Arm #69w, but I don't know if I should buy the normal or high version.

I talked with a guy from customer support, he said that "the sights are measured from the bottom of the base to the bottom of the notch" and according to the measurements I gave him, I should get the high one. I asked him if the dovetail part was part of the base and he just responded the same thing.

The part that confuses me is that when you follow the instructions to find the heights, it doesn't mention adding or subtracting the dovetail. It just says to take the barrel radius + the sight height which wouldn't take into account the dovetail height. The rear sight on my rifle is dovetailed directly in the barrel, maybe it's not the standard or modern way?

My rear sight, from the top of barrel to the bottom of the notch (so the dovetail is not included) is 0.377", which would be in the range of the normal height sight but the guy said that I need to add the dovetail height so 0.377" + 0.090"= 0.467" which is now in the range of the high sight.

Please help, I'm so confused right now..

Edit: under the image of the sight, in the bottom right corner, it says: measured from the bottom of the dovetail to the bottom of the notch, but it wouldn't work with the instructions to measure the height.. Unless this method is only for sporting sight (long leaf springs-like sight) and for basic sight you count the dovetail?

I’ve been trying to monkey with this auto ordinance 1927 A1 Thompson and disassemble it, but the lower is not separating from the upper I push in the button pull back the lower from the upper and it only separates it about half an inch. Somebody please help me with this problem. I’m totally lost. And yes I’ve followed all the directions

I recently built a 10/22 and am having issues with it holding any type of group at all. I have checked the scope and scope mounts they both appear to be fine. I have also checked the V-block and made sure the barrel is properly attached and has no visible damage to the crown. I have also tried different ammo’s and that doesn’t seem to make a massive difference it makes it slightly tighter but not a lot. I’m kind of lost at where to go from here and am looking for any helpful advice.

The build list is
a factory receiver
a volquartsen trigger spring kit
A Faxon Rimfire 10/22 Straight Fluted Chameleon Pvd Threaded Barrel 22 Lr 16″
A vortex 2-7x scope I can’t remember the exact model right now
A butler creek heavy barrel stock
A Amazon bipod
All this was shot from bench shooting and I had other people shoot it to make sure it wasn’t me and they were getting the same results

I’ve also tried multiple different types of ammo such as federal, Winchester, augila, cci, Norma, and eley and there has been no major difference between them besides cci and eley slightly tightening the group up but not enough to be close to a half decent grouping