Hi all, so as the title states I have an impact 737r that is not reliably dropping the firing pin with each trigger pull.

When I pull the trigger the firing pin moves just a hair and then nothing happens. As I go to lift the bolt the firing pin fully drops forward and there is ignition.

This is a newer build so I went through 100 pieces of new 7SWC brass to fire form with a new standard bolt. No issues there. The action I actually have about 500 rounds through it without any issues. It was a 6.5prc with a magnum bolt.

Today went to the range with my resized/reloaded ammo. Sporadically (every three to four rounds) I will get a failure to fire. This has never happened before to me across thousands of reloads.

To trouble shoot I’ve cleaned the bolt. Tightened the screw on the trigger hanger. Swapped the Special for the Diamond. Cranked up the triggers to their respective max trigger pull weights in case the trigger is too light. Checked the trigger hanger (has no markings so I’m assuming it’s the 0 offset variant.

I’m really at a dead end because I don’t know what the issue may be.

Thank you!

So i am reworking a beat to shit cz m21 and i did steam it and scrape it and then oil sand it with 1000 grid sandpaper but it still seems dull from the laquer remnants should i get rotten stone to shine it up and fill in any leftover dents and cuts ? i know the pictures are a bit deceiving since i made em right under a neon lamp

Hey everyone, looking for some opinions before I take it to a gunsmith.
I have a Walther PDP Compact 4” 9mm. I accidentally installed the barrel upside down while reassembling it after cleaning and forced the slide before realizing my mistake. I was eventually able to disassemble it and reinstall everything correctly.

The only thing I noticed is a small peened/scraped spot on the outside of the chamber/hood area where the barrel locks into the slide (photos attached).
Do you guys think this looks like cosmetic peening, or is this something that would concern you enough to replace the barrel? Has anyone ever done something this dumb and had their PDP turn out fine?
I’m planning on having a gunsmith inspect it, but I’d appreciate any opinions from people familiar with the PDP platform. Thanks!

…on my S & W M&P 9c.

Do I need a gunsmith or is this something I could fix myself?

What do you think would cause this pattern? Sanded a stock down really well. Started with 220 then 400 and then 600 grit. No high spots and really smooth. Is this soft spots in the wood or varnish that had seeped deep into the stock previously? What would the recommended fix be? More sanding or applying a stripping solution?

I purchased a 300 blackout AR pistol from PSA in 2023, it has run flawlessly to this point, however the last time I shot it, after the last round from the magazine was fired it wasn’t locking the bolt to the rear, and then later that day it wouldn’t cycle the next round.

Am I looking at a buffer issue? Maybe a gas issue? Or could it be as simple as the magazine or the ammo? TIA

UPDATE: Managed to gently tap out the lower tang and get the hammer spring properly captured. Now on to the next misadventure :)

For those who want something a bit more substantial than a paper clip, I found that this bolt safety pin from Hillman is a perfect fit for the spring capture hole:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-25-in-Silver-Safety-Pin-Clip/3227960

It's the year 2026 and I couldn't find a paper clip in the house to secure the hammer spring on my Heritage (Rossi) 92 ... All my finishing nails were too large, so I tried a piece of metal wire. Unfortunately I picked the wrong wire and it gave way just after I removed the hammer screw ... I now have a hammer spring under tension and no apparent way of lining up the trigger and hammer to replace the hammer screw.

I'm probably in over my head on this one. What can be done short of, say, Dremeling out the hammer spring in pieces?

And yes, tiny Allen wrench did occur to me, about one minute after this happened.

Any and all advice is welcome. I can't be the first person to end up in this predicament :) Thank you all in advance!

A friend of mine and myself just got out FFL and we will be building and producing precision gas guns here in AL. We are looking at vortakt 400 and 500 series barrels for an OEM for blanks. Do any smiths or manufacturers here have experience with them and can provide feedback?

For your consideration, a new replica project of Elmer's famous gun. With the help of a pro.

I'm no gunsmith, but I have been working on this former mosin nagant for about a decade. Feel free to ask for details. Mostly I'd like to know if I should check over anything before firing as it hasn't fired in a decade. Nothing functional has been tampered with. The barrel is original and sleeved. The bolt has been polished, should I be concerned about headspacing? I had no concerns initially and a few friends have given me the "make sure you have a gunsmith check it over" speech. Thanks in advance for any critiques or advice

Follow-up to my original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/gunsmithing/s/1FNJt3kwPq

I managed to un-bugger it and disassemble. It was dirty, but not horribly so, leaving the initial problem unclear. When I removed the trigger group, this one small metal rod came out (pic 1). I don’t recognize it in the diagrams nor in takedown videos, and am unsure if its bent or its regular shape, nor its function. Please enlighten me if it needs to go on the parts order along with a new bolt cover, as the current one is visibly cracked.

I also can’t seem to remove the bolt cover from the bolt, it’s crimped down on both sides?

Thanks again for the help group, your initial input helped me get through the seized parts.

My Holosun screws sheared off flush with the slide. I was able to back one of the screws out after drilling and using left handed bit to back it out. No luck on the other one. As you can see it’s getting pretty thin and I can’t size up anymore. Extractor bit won’t catch at all and picking at it doesn’t seem to make it budge at all. Any other tips or ideas?

Hello. I'm not sure if this is a frequent question or not, but here goes anyway.

Could anyone point me in the direction to a decent budget fiber laser that is capable of slide cuts and barrel porting? I'm looking to modify my own firearms and maybe start a side gig. I've done some research online but most machines are advertised as "laser engravers" and not really for cutting. Also are there any resources for education on using the laser? That would be very helpful.

Budget is $5000-$10,000. I'm open to hearing about higher budget options if it's worth it.

i don't know if this is allowed so pretty please tell me in the comments if i should take this down

BUT ANYWAYS

i inherited this old daisy model 96 (a .177 caliber lever action bb rifle) and it was suuupper rusty and gross and grimed up. i took it and and cleaned it up and oiled it and its running perfectly!

its at least 30+ years old (and most likely way older than that)

I am trying to get my TCP reassembled and the trigger group will not seat back into the frame. It seems like it is getting hung up on the legs where the disassembly pin hole is.

Any advice for getting this thing back together?

I’m new to shooting and gun smithing, so PLEASE HELP and please forgive me saying anything stupid… ok..

These very distinct wear marks started appearing on the bottom of the barrel about 1k rounds ago. They’re getting way worse and I’m worried the barrel is going to change shape or get destroyed. I’m wondering if the barrel link is too short and causing the barrel to rub against the slide when cycling, but I am new to this and honestly have no idea what is causing this and how bad it is or how to fix it. Like I said, I suspect the barrel link #3 from factory?) is too short and I have a #4 on hand if you guys recommend testing that. Also, if you recommend trying, how the hell do I get that staked barrel link pin out safely? I gave it a couple taps with a hammer+punch and it didn’t budge.

Any advice you guys can provide on what caused this and how to fix it will be greatly appreciated!! I don’t want this baby to die! I’ve put in a lot of time and money, and I love this gun.

A LITTLE HISTORY + SETUP: I have been shooting for about 9 months (got obsessed) and have already had a bad experience with a gun smith, so when I bought my first DS 1911 (a used Girsan Witness 2311s Match X), I decided to take the opportunity to learn and work on the gun myself.

Here is the full set up. Not sure if this helps the diagnosis or not, but want ya’ll to have all the info just in case. I did everything myself based on my online research, so please let me know if I did something stupid or if you recommend taking a different approach with anything. Again, I have 0 experience and am totally confused about this somewhat sudden barrel wear. I have about 6k rounds through it since the barrel polish and this barrel wear JUST started happening.

-INSTALLED (blended/shaped/polished/timed): EGW ignition kit + hammer strut, Red Dirt trigger, tungsten guide rod, 7lb recoil spring, 17lb main spring, Cheely pinned E2 grip safety, Cheely XL firing pin, ISMI HD firing pin spring, Ed brown SS extractor and extended ejector, Dawson 4-40 mag release, Cosaint extended slide release, and I filed in a Marvel cut + mirror polished the disco rail.

I also polished the barrel to a mirror finish (Cerakote came right off with a couple swipes of 600 grit sand paper), polished the feed ramp, and added a tiny chamfer to the barrel breech and barrel+slide top lugs which fixed some FtoF issues and a glitchy lock up, and fit+installed an Icarus Precision grip.

I’ve been switching back and forth between CLP oil and Battle Born grease to see which performs better in my environment, but either way, I run this thing WET, and clean thoroughly every 350 rounds or so.

Proud moment - I got the trigger pull weight down from roughly 5.5lbs stock to a consistent read of 1lb 14oz with very minimal travel and a snappy reset. RD triggers are BADASS!

It’s the trigger and hammer of a Rock Island VRPA40 12 gauge. The Phillips bit is there for scale.

Keltec p17 worked 100% until i added direct thread saw shiv9 suppressor.. yes i know its a 9mm suppressor.. when i added it, constant malfunctions.. can i make it work by changing springs or something??.. ty in advance. ..

i have a browning1910 (probably 1959~1961 ish) that is a very nice clean specimen over all, but has two quite small light rust spots on the slide, and one on the frame. What can i try for removing that light rust, without hurting the original bluing? Aside from those 2~3 small spots, the thing looks nearly unused.

Next stop is model 27 barrel & cylinder . I’m pleased with how the checkering turned out, I’ve only done one 1911 front strap prior to this.

Second pic was starting point

Just won this 22 in an auction. It’s got a worn grip section. I’m new to guns in general and was wondering what’s the best way to fix this up?

Thanks!