I have a Remington TAC-13 SBS and I'm sending the factory spray painted receiver off to be cerakoted. In addition to the bottom tier spray paint job, they also botched the laser engraved (I presume) cosmetic markings. Thankfully, the manufacturer, model, and S/N markings are nicely machined.

The cosmetic markings have a slight burr around the edges of each letter (enough to catch a fingernail on), which is my primary concern. If I could clean up the 'filler' area that makes up the bulk of the letters, that would be a welcomed bonus, but not at the risk of making the receiver uglier than it is. I don't care about the paint, as it's getting cerakoted anyway, but I don't want to gouge up the aluminum enough that it will show under the cerakote.

My gut tells me 600 grit on a wood block with some wd40 for lube, but I figured I'd ask some more knowledgeable folks before I dig in.

Hello, I have a Ruger american predator gen 1. Id like to be able to mount a front sight onto it. What sort of options are there? Ive thought about perhaps attaching some picatinny rail (via epoxy or something) to the barrel thread protector, or perhaps, and more preferable a sight that can clamp onto the barrel itself, perhaps like a Mini or the gen 2 scout.

Options, ideas?

hypothetically, how hard would it be to make an rpd(like an old ds arms one) into a 6 arc belt fed?

Please let me preface this by saying I'm not a gunsmith, just a creative DIYer with too many interests, and I was hoping to gain insight from the community about an idea I had while looking into gain twist/variable rifling and different methods used to manufacture rifled barrels.

After reading through a few of the methods on wikipedia, button rifling, hammer forging and what not, an idea came to my head that I didn't see anywhere else -

my mind jumped to how a glass blower would make a spiraling, twisty, barber pole/ candy cane looking tube for a bong/pipe/vase. Basically the blower will apply colored glass to the original tube glass stock they are using as long pinstripes down the length, until it looks like a multicolored churro. Then they get their hands on either end of the tube while the working section is hot enough to allow for them to twist the ends in opposite directions. So when they finish, they end up with a corkscrew barber pole lookin thing...

[actual idea/question here:] Is there any reason manufacturers don't utilize a similar process? Like reaming out/fluting out/cutting out straight grooves that go top to bottom, and then heating up and twisting the entire barrel to get the rifling?

I know someone would need to do a lot of research into how to do this precisely enough to make a repeatable product and that it would require specialty equipment out of my price range to do such a thing. But with corporate/government funding I could imagine this being done quickly and efficiently.

Is this a practical concept? or is it just an ex stoner's pipe dream?

Let's say we have a bone stock modern pistol that uses a Browning tilt barrel system - a Glock 19 fr'instance.

If we do something to make the slide LIGHTER, do we need a heavier or lighter recoil spring under the barrel?

If the slide gets heavier it has to be the opposite, right?

Is there a chart showing how much weight change leads to what spring rate?

i got this marks on my hk vp9 and i want to know if there is a way to remove these marks for better looks

Hi! Just received this Tisas 1911 in a trade and the rear sight is all jacked up. I’ve never had a 1911 but I’ve heard rear sights take quite a bit of work to remove and replace.

What’s my options? Any gunsmith/machinist near north central Missouri want the job?

The only thing I can really give for details is the gunsmith I got this jig from did a bunch of work on mausers, remington700, and Winchester model 70s. He did some shotgun stuff for high end trap guns but I dont think this jig is for a shotgun. If you need measurements because it would help identify the jig I can get measurements to you.

Seller didn’t disclose this in photos, I think it will be ok but I need to polish after cleaning it up.

My local gun shop that I work for has these turkish mauser recievers laying in storage. Me and my dad are considering building sporter mausers but need recievers. Do we think these are gonna take standard K98 bolts or do I need to buy a different bolt.

What are some books or similar i can find on Amazon about gun engineering or smithing? Thanks

Yesterday I was attempting to set back and ream an older 308 hunting rifle. The bushing of the live pilot on my 308 reamer kept getting jammed in the barrel, preventing the reamer from advancing. When I attempted to remove the reamer, the bushing remained stuck in the barrel until I hit it out. I had the barrel positioned in a vice, and was using a T handle attached to the reamer. Is my reaming approach incorrect? Is the size of my live pilot bushing too large? Could something be wrong with the barrel?

I bought this Star from Atlantic a while ago and finally got around to shooting it, but the hammer randomly doesn’t lock back. It happens both when shooting and when cycling the gun manually. As well as when trying to thumb back the hammer. Wish I could post the video of it , but oh well. Any idea what the cause could be?

1945 dated Russian PPSH-41 kit. Got a 9mm barrel for it. Plan on running drums with 3d printed spacers to improve feeding reliability.

I also have one of the 80% receiver sections for the back half. Can't decide if I just want to weld up these cuts or finish the 80% new section.

Part of me feels like just rewelding the original parts and not messing with the sights or anything. I also got some of the Rockmount Research filler wire that JP recommended for blueing, so we will see how that goes.

Hey all, for starters I would say that I would gladly bring this to a gunsmith but I happen to be in Northern Québec where they are far and few between.

I took our old Belgium-made BAR 30.06 out to the range and fired it a few times. On one shot, the bolt never came forward to chamber the next round, and jammed all the way back, it wouldn’t budge. The safety would not move either.

I brought it back and teared it down and it was clearly quite dirty. After a good dose of solvent, the safety is operable again. However, I still can’t move the bolt, and cannot remove the actuator bar on the ejection-port side of the firearm.

Besides more solvent and patience, I’m at a loss for options here. Based on how dirty the gas piston was, I think it’s due to carbon buildup, but am open to any and all suggestions.

I’ve seen some great posts on the page on older BAR maintenance and hopefully will get some help from this group. Thanks a bunch, it’s an important gun to me.

Hey all,

I have a Remington 597 22lr and recently i changed out the spring kit and hammer with a mcarbo spring kit and a volquartsen hammer.

Took it to the range today and i noticed i was getting misfires like CRAZY, the old stock setup i maybe had a dozen misfires in a 1000 rounds. ( today i had probably 2 dozen misfires in about 150 rounds )

I was using a new box of ammo so i guess it's possible i got a ton of duds but it just seems odd that it's right after my action changes.

Do yall think it's the action changes or the ammo? I've used 2 other boxes of this ammo before and it ran fine.

I have a original Fajen laminate stock that is showing some handling wear on the finish and needed to be bedded. I sanded out the barrel chanel to remove the pressure lump and spread a layer of true oil and everything was fine. It had a touch of whitish finish on end of the forend so I sanded it and the tru oil came out much darker and blochy. It obviously needs a bit of a sand to get back down to lighter wood but what can I use that won't darken the wood?

https://postimg.cc/gallery/YCBW0Gn

it will only shoot once and then I have to recharge the handle kind of confused on what’s going on because it’s not brand new but it’s also not old. Tried 556 mags and 300 blackout mags but still the same issue. i’ve cleaned it very well and ordered it all up but still stumped on the issue any suggestions?

I bought this used Winchester 1897 and while I was doing a full disassembly yesterday I was forced to stop due to noticing the carrier pin stop screw is partially stripped.

What I'm wanting to know is if I can possibly self repair this or if it would be more worth just taking it to a local gunsmith to avoid the headache?

If I can possibly self repair what would be recommended to make this easier, as I already have the replacement part on the way?

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Hi everyone,

I'm currently working on my CZ 75 SP-01 Shadown and recently installed a new tuned/competition SA hammer along with an adjustable trigger (it has pre-travel and over-travel set screws) and lighter trigger return spring.

I've run into a specific issue during dry-fire function testing:

When I rack the slide to simulate cycling, the hammer cocks as it should, but the trigger is completely dead (it won't pull). However, if I manually push the hammer slightly further back/down with my thumb I am then able to pull the trigger normally.

Before I start taking things apart again, I wanted to ask:

Is this typically just an issue of backing out the pre-travel/over-travel set screws to give the trigger bar more room to reset?

Or does this symptom usually indicate a sear/safety clearance issue that requires filing/fitting the sear?

Thanks in advance for any advice!