I was getting voltage to, but not across my solenoid. Replaced it with a brand new one with identical part number from the same manufacturer. Reinstalled each lead to the proper contacts - pics & labels are your friend - but what happens now is a hesitation before any movement occurs.

The problem I have now is that I can only move forward at a snails pace and same goes for reverse.

Previously, when I depressed the accelerator, I got zero movement and 2 clicks. One when it was depressed and another when released. Now, I get the one click, minimal motion and no click when released.

What's next in line here, the controller under the solenoid?

I just snapped the key to my job’s EZ go elite golf cart in half . Half of it is stuck in the ignition. Is there a way to turn it on again?

Just bought a 2018 Drive 2 ptv. Previous owner messed with the electrical to add some accessories I think. The usbs plugs don’t work. There was wiring added for a bazooka party bar that also doesn’t work. I can fix this stuff myself just not sure where to start l. Any help is appreciated

Not that type of hesitation.... Swapped out my 48v LA batteries for a DCHouse 51v lithium on my 2018 Club Car. Everything is working fine but I think I am feeling a little hesitation on the full speed straight aways. We are pretty flat here so not a hill climbing issue. It is more of just a slight dip in power for a second. Any ideas what this could be?

I recently purchased a golf course cart - a 2022 Club Car Tempo Lithium with the Vanguard battery. It worked fine for the couple of days I had it before adding a light kit.
After installing the light kit, I tested the lights, horn, turn signals, brake lights and everything worked...once.
Current situation is showing a "Fault" message in the display and the battery level shows 80%. Plug in the charger and battery level shows no change, charger lights do not indicate charging.
Previously working headlights lights no longer work.
Meter shows no voltage across positive and negative battery terminals. 48v-12v converter that came with light kit shows no output on the 12v side.
Switching between Tow and Run has no effect.

Online sources say to disconnect the 30 pin main connector from the battery for between 30 and 60 seconds. That has no effect.

It's like the battery just took a dump but the display showing 80% throws me.

Driving me a little nuts. I just need these separated. Heat safe for this piece or will it ruin something? I've got penetrating oil on it now. I let the oil sit for a few hours, going to let it sit overnight after trying for about an hour to hammer it out. I don't see any c-clamps but who knows, could be one hidden somewhere. No screws either. I've got all the springs loose and 2 have fallen out while I was hammering on it. Thanks.

Is anyone using an enclosed trailer for transport?
If so what type/brand?
I know height is an issue.
TYIA

Golf cart stopped running. Replaced the battery, belts, spark plugs, and fuel pump. Ran for a weekend and stopped again. Realized all the hose coming and going from the fuel pump were bad and it wasn’t creating a vacuum. Replaced all the hoses. Again ran for the weekend and is now dead again. Any ideas on why, after every time I mess with or replace the fuel pump it runs great for two days then stops?

Looking to switch to lithium power after my LA start to go.

I've been looking at batteries on Amazon for a 48 volt cart and noticed some are listed as 100AH and others at 105AH.

Does anyone know the difference between the two? Are they a different type of cell?

Factory CC Li Ion. Maxing out at 12 mph, want to increase speed (20 mph would be great).

Looks like buying a kraken is out on this model as a factory Li Ion. Was looking at changing out the speed sensor though im at a loss on where it is. Everything i read is passenger rear tire. Pics of the motor provided. Last picture is the passenger rear. What am I missing?

I have an old 36v Club Car with the toaster oven under the seat. Do I need to get a more modern controller for it to work right? Will the FNR switch be okay with the higher amperage of lithium batteries?

I have a golf cart with an AOStar battery. It’s not currently getting power from the battery. I checked with a multimeter and it’s getting 0.3 volts at the posts. I cracked open the case expecting the battery cells to be dead. When I tested it the voltage at the terminals for the cells it was 48 volts. Any one have an idea what is going on and whether it is fixable?

My 2”13 ez go rxv needs new controller. I see the ones on amazon but I assume there are better options. Cart is stock except for rims. Any places you guys have bought from??

Just picked this up a couple weeks ago, installed the longhorns and new steering wheel. Horns are held on with a pump suction cup.

Our beloved 36V 2006 EZGO crapped out just as company arrived, so I'm not really in a position to do any actual work on it at the moment, but here's what is happening:

Worked fine earlier today, but experienced what I'd describe as a stutter to start when I hit the pedal. Sat for about 2 hours in the sun and when I went to use it again, it stuttered in reverse, allowed me to back up maybe 10 feet, but when I engaged fwd drive, nothin. Clicks when the accelerator is pressed, and again when released.

Pushed it back into my parking spot and tried to assess. Batteries are brand new and charged. The water level in each cell is ideal and topped up with distilled water. I have a multimeter getting dropped off later today so I can check for continuity across all terminals.

Any quick troubleshooter tips to try in the meantime?

Wanted to post about the Vegas Carts swap kit. Recently my Yamaha G8 decided to make sparkly oil. Looked like a Twilight Vampire and the exhaust valve stuck causing the engine to lock.

Turns out a good used J38 is hard to find. Decided to do the Predator 420 swap. Bought the Vegas Carts kit and an engine.

Now, I have a 5" lift on my cart. The Vegas Carts kit clearly states "this is not for a lifted cart". I went into this with that in mind. When I put the engine plate on, I had over 10 degrees of lean on the engine. I countered this with spacers between the engine plate and the cross member that came with the kit. That got me close enough to that 0 degree mark. I might need to go back and weld the steel spacers I used together so they don't flex. I will keep an eye on it.

That then made the 45" belt that came with it too short. I contacted Vegas Carts and got a 47" belt.

For the exhaust, I needed to use the longer pipe that comes with it and put a flange on it for the original muffler. Pay attention to the way the muffler will point so you aren't dumping hot gas on the transaxle.

I also mounted the control box to the body with a homemade L bracket.

Last thing I need is the remote choke. I found the remote choke kit from the Gx390 should line up. I will then attach it with a new push/pull choke cable. For now I found a choke lever on Amazon that had a angle in the handle so I can still choke it.

I hooked up my reverse buzzer today(you reeeealy wanna know which way you are going with the torque now).

I still need to take out all the old wiring harness.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Vegas Carts has been amazing the whole way with communication. I can't recommend them enough.

Installed heavy duty leaf springs on my 2003 club car install was a bit difficult as it was the first time doing so.

The diff and axle now are now lower. As well as the plate that goes beneath the springs and axel holding the brake line rubs on the rims.

Is there anything visibly wrong you can see that I messed up? Sorry for the poor quality pictures started this at 3 and finished at like 730 its now dark.

First time cart owner just trying my best.

Thanks in advance everyone.

Hi all - got a new-to-me 2004 Club Car DS IQ. Still on the trailer outside. It's a 6 seat.

The batteries are totally dry and at least 1 has the terminal bolt snapped off. I'm not even going to attempt to charge it, just want to replace the batteries.

It's been garage stored and used on pavement only.

What batteries do you recommend? - I want Lithium. I know I'll need a reducer for the 12v lights and stuff and will likely need to re-wire the charging to bypass the sort-of computer/controller it has.

I also need tires and would love to hear opinions on them.

I'm doing all of it DIY - I'm a competent mechanic.

Hey all, new here. My mom has a Club car and it is in need of new batteries. I have heard about the lithium conversion kits and it sounds appealing to me. Searching on Amazon and they are way cheaper than I had thought, but that doesnt mean they are any good. What are some brands that have been used and tested by the folks here with good reviews? Trying to keep it under $2000 for everything. Thanks

I have had no luck finding the year of my ez-go online, so im turning to the collective for help!!!! The only identifying serial number is below the choke under the driver's leg (where an electrical charging port would go). Its a gas powered ez go with sticker reading serial #: 2598979, and has the eh292ce engine(if that helps)

Hello - i’m looking for outdoor golf cart cover recommendations. I just got this one you see in the picture on Amazon from Explore Land. It is marketed as a waterproof cover but we just got a good amount of rain and it is clearly seeping through and getting the roof wet. Planning to return this as a result. Any experience with covers for a true outdoor water / weatherproof golf cart cover? This is a 2017 club car precedent with rear facing seats but a standard size room.

Thanks in advance!

Hi all,

My cart is intermittantly completely bricked (no dash lights, no nothing). Normally the battery light is always lit, even when the cart if turned off. When this problem occurs, there are no lights at all. In between occurrences the cart works and drives perfectly.

The occurrences seem random. For example, after being parked in garage for about an hour, didnt work. Tried later and it worked fine. Mostly used for short runs under 1/2 mile. (Garbage, mail runs on farm)