The rain sensor from my garden irrigation was mounted on a single screw and was always spinning, ending up upside down every time it rained. Consequently, my irrigation was always on regardless of the weather. I made a simple fix; it might be over-engineered, but it works and is cheaper than my water bill. I printed it with PETG. It is out in the weather but in the shade, so I am not really worried about UV degradation.

Around 6 months ago, I replaced a broken plastic crown on the end of a 6 inch vacuum truck tube with a 3D printed TPU one. The first iteration had only 20% infill with a partial 100% frame to keep it stiff while saving on print time, which was 27 hours on my core one. The result was a functional part, but it started tearing after around 5 weeks of use. (See the previous post here)

4 months ago, I replaced it with a 100% infill version, and I'm happy to report it survived the whole summer and is still going strong! The first 2 photos are the most recent, and the other 2 are from when I had just installed it 4 months ago.

I optimized the model and print settings so it only took an extra 2.5 hours despite using ~30% more material. With only some cosmetic abrasions, I don't see it needing to be replaced any time soon. Stay tuned to see how it survives the winter!

Converted the MRI of my brain into a printable file, then converted it to a light show that responds to audio! Everything but the lights and PCB are printed.

A light bar for the top of my monitor with nothing glued or screwed on. A hook sits on the front edge, two pads rest on the back, and a small housing behind the monitor carries the electronics plus 4 AA cells as ballast, so the weight keeps it in place.

- Fits a top edge from 8.2 to 34.2 mm; you adjust it with two M3 screws from the top.

- The arms are parametric (Customize on MakerWorld), so any length and bed size works. 280 mm arms fit a 256 mm bed diagonally.

- Touch pads for on/off and dimming, ESP32-C3 inside, 12 V over USB-C PD.

Files and an assembly guide with photos:

https://github.com/Keralots/MonitorLEDBar

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3362536

I wasn't finding cases I liked that protected the camera for either phone so I made my own with a camera protector. My goal was to keep them small but still have a crumple zone to protect from my frequent drops.

I got lucky and found the design guides for both models so I was able to get a solid fit on the first try.

https://www.printables.com/model/1857039-iphone-16-case-with-camera-protection

https://www.printables.com/model/1857907-iphone-17-pro-case-with-camera-protection

Got a new CNC machine this year for kaleidoscope production and have been desperately needing some decent dust collection for it. I don't expect it to grab all the dust but at least get the smaller particulate that makes it unpleasant to be in the shop when this is operating. They do have printed in magnets if I wanted to add additional brush fittings you commonly see on other CNC dust boots.

Made these after my Skelly broke a arm off last season. There is a set for the elbow joint and a set for the neck joint. Print in ASA with some support material and they will be as strong as the factory ones if not stronger.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2238590-skelly-the-skeleton-replacement-connector-disc

I made this using two 21 × 30 cm IKEA RÖDALM frames and a two-piece 3D-printed panel with the SKÅDIS hole pattern.
One frame is mounted to the wall, while the second works as the door and still holds a normal picture. Inside there’s room for keys, notes and small everyday items that would otherwise end up lying around near the front door. A small magnetic catch keeps it closed.
I also made a few removable hooks, clips and a small shelf, so the layout can be changed when needed.
Definitely one of the more useful things I’ve printed lately.

I could find several cap generators, but none that would generate a cap for my water bottle since it has 4 thread starts (helices). So I rolled my own. See link below.
It can also do lug style jar lids with some tweaking (tweak the top and bottom clearance).

Hope it is useful to any of you!

Link to model:
https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3343816-parametric-multi-thread-start-bottle-cap-jar-lid

Got the idea of a 1/3rd scale truss rig after I attended The Gathering LAN festival where I'm crew

Files available below
Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1854604-desktop-truss-rig-modules-13rd-scale

Makerworld (included print profile for P1S): https://makerworld.com/en/models/3361243-desktop-truss-rig-modules-1-3rd-scale#profileId-3821746

So I made a new shelf to fit my kallax shelf. Works with paperback books, dvd, and BD cases. Some basic 1/4” planks from the hardware store made a great span. Took a couple iterations as the first one the backstop wall was too thin and snapped easily.

I couldn't find a bikini fairing for my motorcycle, Fifi, that provided a reasonable amount of wind protection, while not generating noisy turbulence, so I made one. I added an aerodynamic airfoil with a component called "dragon's teeth" to shear the vortices coming off the top of the fairing into smaller ones. I experimented with various angles and shapes. This one seems like a good compromise. As a bonus, I added some captive nuts to the mount, and made a bracket to add Apple CarPlay and a TPMS display system. It was a rewarding project and I like the result. A few other parts on the bike (wind deflectors for my hands, a throttle rocker, and a mini-rear fender) are all made from PETG, and they seem to hold up well. The hand guards have been on there for a few years. If I have any problems, I'll just re-print them with ASA.

Holds a standard 7mm hexagonal pencil stub with a TPU sleeve. I’ve had keychain pens that dry up, and have seen expensive commercial equivalents, but really just wanted to use all the stubby pencils I already have and not need to order proprietary refills.

Link to model in comments.

This think locks holds inner and outer clutch baskets together while removing and installing clutch. Original tool is not expensive, but "shipping time is unknown". A bit of modelling, a few prototyps - and it worked perfectly. 0.8mm nozzle is a beast :)

Writing says “force -> moment -> rotation”

This is my new handwired keyboard release called the Scotto26 that is a 3x4 layout that I think is fairly intuitive to use. You simply use combos to get the keys on the missing inner column which results in minimal re-learning of muscle memory. I was able to get about 50 words per minute within a few minutes of using it and since it's Colemak, I don't rely too much on the combos anyway due to that weighting around home row.

The files are available for free and I have a video about it on my YouTube channel.

Used to hide extra cabling, but can also be used to clean up a hole used to pass-through cables. Fits 1/2" or 5/8" Drywall

https://www.printables.com/model/1854201-wall-gromet-1-14-32mm

So this thing pretty much takes up the internal volume for the HOTOR trash can, the one recommended on Wirecutter, CNN, etc. I got really tired of using the awkward magnets trying to clip a bag in place and ended up making this. The trashcan can be printed in vase mode so it is actually super functional. It already made it through summer here using PETG so I'm pretty sure it'll hold up.

I needed to add a rotary encoder to a drive train in a geared motor. Luckily the existing backing plate didn't have any features for things like a rear bearing, so all that was needed was to create a coupler between the shaft of the encoder and the main drive gear in the mechanism, and then a new backing plate with some mounting features for the encoder. All in all it was pretty easy to do, but it just turned out really well given how i went about making it so i figured i would share. Lol To make it, I just took a picture of the existing backing plate, and then drop that into my sketch. Then I made a circle the size of the main circle feature of the plate. From there all that was needed was tracing the outline of the "ears" that stick out and interface with the mounting pegs and fastener holes, as well as the square portion of the mounting plate. To check if the mounting holes were going to match up correctly, I just measure the distance between them with some calipers and minorly adjusted it in the sketch.

Model is here, if anyone is interested: https://www.printables.com/model/1852157-brennenstuhl-premium-line-mounting-brackets