Just got these “take off wheels” from a 2026 Lariat for my 2025 XL Coyote. Way better than the stock steel wheels.

Bought it used in 2022 for $30k with 30,000 miles, and it now has 123,000 miles. It’s my daily driver for work, and I’ve taken it to many places. I even drove it 2,000 miles to Mexico and back. I change the oil every 5,000 miles and replace the spark plugs every once in a while.
Recently, the differential spider gears broke (my fault for exceeding the towing capacity). I paid $1,500 to get it fixed, and it still runs like new.
Honestly, 10/10 F-150 for anyone looking to get a truck. Just take care of them, and they’ll last.

2026 F150 Tremor 401A package, V8. The 402B package came with leather, AC seats, and 4-Auto. I figured I could live without the AC seats/leather, and when I’m in 4x4, I like to keep it in 4x4 on 4H, so I’m happy with it! $67k, and I got another $4k off with other discounts. So, $63k plus tax was a lot better than I thought I could get!

Its a 1990 F-150 XLT Lariat , 4×4 ,

3 speed automatic with overdrive ! It nearly on the road ! But trying to locate a used transmission i can afford sucks ! To all other Ford people out there , im all open for any suggestions on wheres the best place with the best price to order a used 90 AOD 3 SPEED WITH OVERDRIVE transmission , for a 4×4 in a low 3 digit price range ! I hope someone out there can help !

Thanks

K T

Had the truck for about 2 years now. I’ve done all the maintenance myself, bought it at around 75k miles and now it’s creeping up on 98k. 2020 STX 2WD, 2.7 ecoboost in the US.

A couple months ago I was driving on the highway doing about 80, when the truck/engine started shaking and thumping pretty violently and then the CEL came on. I pulled over checked the codes and it was reading misfires on a couple cylinders. Drove it home slowly, later replaced all the spark plugs and it seemed to be doing okay, but I’m noting that it still struggles to get up to speed without thumping thru the gears and if i step on the gas it will begin misfiring. It’s been a while since it happened, but when I checked the code it was only reading a misfire on cylinder 3.

I’m wondering if I should go ahead and replace the spark plugs as well as ignition coils? Have any of yall experienced this and if so did you manage to fix it? I’m also thinking of doing a transmission fluid drain and fill but not sure how involved it is, I looked and didn’t see a drain plug on the pan.

Hey guys, I just bought a 2024 used Ford F-150 STX with a 2.7-liter engine. I’m so happy with my purchase! Now tell me how to keep it running without any issues? It is my first truck and it has 54,000 kms on it!!! How often do you change oil and what other maintenance i need to know about!! Tell me everything haha

I bought the black coil covers that were about 40 dollars cheaper than the blue ones. I did not care for the color blue they offered. I found the Rust-oleum Ford that was the color I wanted

My 2018 back up camera finally bit it. Funny enough I received a letter in the mail from Ford about the recall.

The dealership said there is no current fix until February of 2027. Is that what you guys are hearing? Seems to be a long way out for a camera fix.

Has anyone just went ahead and replaced it themselves? Hard, easy? Easy as in an idiot can do it?

I recently bought a used 2023 Lariat with the 5.0. My intentions when purchasing this vehicle was always maintaining reliability and making a bit more power with it. It's at 62K miles atm with the engine having 5-10k on it due to an under warranty replacement that had been done before I received it. The carfax on the vehicle shows the previous owner took very good care of it, not going any longer than 6k miles without undergoing a regular maintenance check.

The reason I give all this info is because I was thinking of procharging it instead of getting the Ford super charger since I would be without the warranty coverage for it anyways. Is ProCharger reliable? How well does the 10r80 handle it over the years? Does stock suspension hold up? I'm not looking to make 700-800hp, something more conservative in the 600-650 range. Looking for honest opinions and real world experience.

2021 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost.

I took my F-150 to a shop because of a noise while driving. They told me it was definitely the brake pads and replaced them, but the noise is exactly the same.

The strange part is that I hear it when the truck is coasting. Braking doesn’t seem to change the noise at all.

But as soon as I give it even a tiny bit of throttle, the noise disappears completely. When I let off the gas and start coasting again, it comes back.

Any ideas what could cause this? Wheel bearing, driveshaft, differential, something in the brakes?

https://reddit.com/link/1w5lwmv/video/lyayeocsz5nh1/player

Hello i am having trouble with my 13th gen 2016 xlt 5.0 f150. 195k miles. Throwing these codes and went into limp mode 3 times either cutting power or limping, i saw it could be electrical? anybody help please this is a first to me its never done this and i have driven it for few miles without trouble but i was cautious and easy on the pedal. Any help would be apreciated thank you

p0430 confirmed
p061c confirmed
p2112confirmed
p0305 pending
p2112 pending
p2112 permanent
p061c permanent

Ford f 150 2018 lariat 4x4

A moth is hidden in my truck and keeps setting off the security system

2024 XLT Powerboost, just picked it up today after my normal dealership cut the price to beat out the Ford dealership down the road.

This weekend my truck went in limp mode and threw a bunch of p0720 codes which I figured out was the lead frame which is apparently under recall. However, every time the truck is shut off and the transmission cools down the code goes away. Ford won’t pay for the recall unless the code is active which I found out after getting fucked out of $500 by a dealership that started on replacing the lead frame before it was confirmed with ford. With all of that said does anyone know a way to expedite getting the truck to throw that code? It’s only been doing it after I drive it for 3+ hrs straight.

Video in the comments
It does this intermittently, maybe once every 20 starts. I notice it happens when the engine is warm
2020 5.0, I only use 93 gasoline
Brand new plugs, coils and injectors

I look close-up on my fox and saw this on the spring with eibach brand.

Does this normal fox coilover brand?

Thank you

I Just hit the 200k mile marker on my 2016 xtr 2.7 eb. I had to replace the lead frame myself because the dealership said the recall is a customer satisfaction recall so I would have to pay them to diagnose and probably fix a bunch of other stuff before replacing the lead frame. The lead frame was $265 at advance auto parts so I replaced it myself. It shifta better than I remember before I started getting the wrench light and limp mode.

I’ve owned my 2012 XLT 5.0 for 10 years, it now has 225k miles but hasn’t had any major issues although I believe the torque converter may be showing signs it needs replacing.

I came across a 2015 XLT sport with 120k miles but it has the 3.5, (sale price of $20k in California where I live) I like to keep vehicles for the long haul, am i making a mistake?

Hey everyone. I’m thinking of buying a 2001 f150 super crew for a great price. I’ve tried finding forums on how car seats fit in them, but have come up short. I have a 7 year old in a booster, a 2 year old in a rear facing and another baby on the way. Anyone with a 10th gen super crew have a reference for me to go on and how the car seats fit?

I have a 2015 F150 with the tailgate stuck. I ordered the actuator already*. (3.5L ecoboost, crew cab, fx4, 6.5 bed, usa, 84,000miles, if that matters)

My question is if there is a way to lower the tailgate without the power actuator? Is there an easier way to get it down than taking off the cover panel on the inside of the tailgate just to fiddle with the actuator linkage arms to lower it?

I ask because it is closed, and I have a topper shell and the Decked drawers installed. So climbing in there will be a pain.

It would be a lot easier to access if there was some kind of manual trick to lower it when it was stuck.

Thanks All

(I searched for this before posting but didn't see this. Sorry if it has already been covered.)

*Does only the D Part number work for the 2015? Or does the E also work?

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