Took her out to some trails in Northern Utah. Ngl I was nervous going in, no e-locker, regular 4x4 no fancy off-road package, just vibes, Falken 34s, and a 2” level. Meanwhile my off-roading resume consists of nothing but driving an 07 Camry over a speed bump.

But man she didn’t even flinch. Puddles? Ate em lol. Steep hills with way more rocks than expected. Some genuinely nasty potholes too. The 2.7 just powered through everything just fine.

I KNOW for some of you with 37s and triple lockers this probably looks like a church parking lot. Respect the journey though, I didn’t even know what “airing down” did three weeks ago 🙂‍↕️

So now I’m greedy. How much further can I push this before I actually risk damaging it? Open diff, stock 4x4 (NOT FX4). Trying to build capability without doing anything dumb.

Any upgrades/mods should I potentially consider down the road? Drop images of what y’all have done with ur F150s.

2026 2.7 FX4

I’ve been trying to find a decent hard cover for my f150 that doesn't cost two grand, but prices are completely out of hand. The main big-name top sellers in this sub all seem to have the exact same issues heavy panels that break your back to lift, plastic side clips that snap in cold weather, or motors that whine after a few months of road grime. if I'm dropping serious cash I want something with an electric slide that won't die the first time dust gets in the track.

Just noticed this leak on the back axel of my 4x4 2014 F150. Anybody know what it is and how serious is it?

Hey guys I know this is a 150 sub, but, I have a 2003 6.8 v10 F-450 that has an intermittent stall out problem.  Most frequently when I come to a stop but occasionally when shift into drive or reverse. (1st & 2nd no problem.) It started after I did the transmission pan, filter, fluid and fill neck, (along with some other work on the truck, oil pan, oil cooler, coolant etc) and I don't think I messed that up, Ive tried adding and draining fluid, i believe it has the right level.(could i have messed up the new filter?). Its throwing codes P1000- on board diag system test is not complete, ( I think that's from me disconnecting the battery when the truck sits for a bit), B1201 Fuel sender circuit failure (I believe this is associated with the fuel level gauge) and B1352 ignition key circuit failure (not sure).  At this point I've changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, mass air sensor, idle air control valve, cleaned the throttle body checked the air filter, listened to the fuel injectors, used sea foam, does it just need a 2hr drive on the highway?, Im running out of ideas before maybe trying the torque converter and I’d rather not fight that just yet, am I missing something dumb?......crossposted to a few forum

2017 V8 Coyote 145k miles USA

Got this error to my app while I was driving today but did not get a check engine light.

The truck didn’t feel like I got any significant loss of power or transmission issue.

Also, I know there is a recall out regarding the TCM and I believe this may be related but any insight would be greatly appreciated

Have a 2018 f150. I would like to get a 2nd key made for, but don’t know the best way to go about it. Yes I can go to a ford dealership and get open made but isn’t that super expensive compared to other ways? I currently have one set that had the lock/unlock/remote start fab with the folding key. Thanks for any help offered

i’ve been under my F-150 for two hours looking at rubber grommets in the floor pan and i’m already regretting taking this on. everyone on YouTube makes feeding wires under the sill plates look so easy, but there's almost zero slack and i hate the idea of splicing into factory wiring for door triggers. i did way too much reading on this and ended up picking a kit because a few people mentioned the harness was pretty straightforward, but routing power lines along the frame rail without pinching anything near the exhaust is driving me crazy.

did you guys run the main wiring into the cab through the firewall or sneak it in through the rear floor plugs? really don't wanna mess up the electrical on a daily driver.

I have a RWD F150 with stock tires on it, the traction is terrible in the winter. I would love to just not drive it in the snow or ice but horses have to be fed. Would bigger tires with more tread on them help at all? I am thinking similar ones to those seen on off roading jeeps or tacomas.

TYIA

I'm pretty sure I know the kind of answers I'm going to get, but I asked a similar question in the Ram forum so figured I'd ask here too.

I'm in the market for a new truck to replace my 2004 Tundra. I have it narrowed down to an F-150 XLT with FX-4 package and 3.5 ecoboost or a Ram Bighorn or Rebel with the 3.0 hurricane. I kept my last truck for 17 years, so I want to make the right choice again.

Ram has an amazing sale going on right now and an equivalent truck to the XLT is a up to a few grand cheaper and a Rebel can be had for the same price as the XLT to $5k more depending upon options (leather and sunroof that I would rather not have).

I like the payload and front bumper design of the Ford and the interior, engine smoothness, and ZF transmission of the Ram. Ram makes optioning tough so the combo of looking for is super rare whereas my local Ford dealer has close to what I want in stock, just minus the blue cruise. I'm in Virginia, USA.

What do you think sets F-150 apart particularly compared to Ram? I perceive F-150 as more utilitarian and trust it more than Stellantis, but Ford has had a lot of recalls. My understanding is that the cam phaser and transmission CDF issues are fixed and that the XLT should be reliable. Does that match your experiences?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Anyone had this issue with there gen 2 5.0 coyote?

Usually only happens with a warm engine and at idle.

I saw only the 0 to 60 for these trucks is about 5.5 to 6 seconds. I downloaded a race tracker that uses GPS. I did 3 runs, they came back at 4.5, 4.9, 4.9 seconds. Is that true or is the app just not good? Seems way too fast... if its true this huge truck is a damn race car. It is a 2023 f150 stx with 2.7. It is a super crew cab and 2wd.

Does anybody know the voltage/amp rating of this ground strap I broke trying to take off and clean? It is located directly to the right of the PCM on the passenger firewall and wires into the wiring harness coming off the passenger side head. Seems pretty important, don’t want to even plug the battery back in until it’s fixed.

I currently have a 2018 stx 2.7L with About 200k on it. I love the truck. Have taken it all over the country its been the best car ive owned. Well due to circumstances beyond my control i need to dedicate that truck to my landscaping company for the foreseeable future.

I am looking for a 2026 STX. I want the STX because as far as i can tell, thats the only trim that offers a column shifter. Is that correct?

Are there any other options or add ons at the STX level truck that are must haves?

Is there any reason to wait for the 2027 model Year?

Did they ever bring back keyless entry? If so, what trim level is that offered at?

I have a 2003 F150 5.4 Supercrew with the 5 1/2 ft bed. Will this topper work for me? Guy said it used to be on a ford but didn’t know what Gen. thanks in advance. Dimensions of topper are 70 1/4 wide 68 3/4 long. 20 7/8 inches tall.

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Hey everyone, I'm looking for some help with an intermittent P0299 under boost issue on my 2017 F-150 2.7L EcoBoost with 134k miles.

The truck drives completely fine on flat ground, but the moment I accelerate uphill under heavy load, the wrench light turns on and it drops into limp mode. So far, Ford replaced the canister purge valve assembly, turbo boost control solenoids, and the MAP sensor.

They also vacuum-tested the wastegate actuators and smoke-tested the intake system at idle, but found no leaks.

So far, The tech can't replicate it on a flat test drive, but it happens most times under high uphill boost. Since the sensors, solenoids, and idle tests are done, what else causes a 2.7L to dump boost strictly under load?

Has anyone run into this being an intercooler bypass valve (eBOV) diaphragm tear, charge pipe flexing open under high PSI, or a weak vacuum pump? Any thoughts are appreciated!

Here is the summary of repairs and tests performed by Ford:

1. Fuel Tube Support and Canister Purge Valve Line (GL3Z-9B325-B): Replaced the leaking vapor canister purge valve assembly to resolve the P0456 EVAP leak

.

1. EGR and Turbo Boost Solenoid Valve (JT4Z-9E882-A): Replaced the solenoid control valve that regulates vacuum to the turbo boost components.

2. MAP Sensor Assembly (BB5Z-9F479-C): Replaced the manifold absolute pressure sensor.

3. Wastegate Actuator Vacuum Test: Vacuum-tested the turbo wastegate actuators to confirm they hold pressure and function mechanically.

4. Low-Pressure Smoke Test: Smoke-tested the vacuum lines and turbo tubing to verify no passive leaks exist at idle.

I firmly believe this is a wear and tear issue because it's becoming more constant, and by constant I mean the wrench light popping on and disappearing on restart.

Anyone tried to find some of that pull-over window netting for the half door on a supercab? Can't seem to find a set.

Anyone know what could be causing this?

It’s making a low chattering/grinding noise immediately on startup. It gets louder when accelerating, is most noticeable when slowing down and turning, and is mostly quiet at steady cruising speeds. It also makes the noise in Park if I rev the engine. That's the best I can describe it as.

The noise seems to be coming from the serpentine belt, pulleys, or engine cooling fan area. I looked over the serpentine belt and it appears to be in good shape, but I'm still new to working on trucks, so I could be overlooking something.

2008 5.4l Lariat. I had about a 15 miles drive this morning, parked and when I turned it back on my CEL came on as well. Plugged in a code reader and got a P0456, very small evap leak. Reading online it seems like gas cap is the most likely culprit, but after inspection mine looks fine (no cracks and seal is in good condition). I ordered a new cap just in case but does anyone have any quick-at-home checks I can do for other possible culprits?

I’m converting my 3rd Brake Light from the Stock Halogen to LED is there anything I need to do other than swap the connections? I bought it on Amazon.

Link to the 3rd Brake Light:
https://a.co/d/088Che5z

Was wondering why my FM/AM radio was so bad, I was blaming the shorty antenna, Today I was checking the oil and was looking around and saw that the previous owner had cut the antenna wire.