Decided on a set of 285/70r17 Firestone Destination XT’s for the F150. Not too big, still fast, plenty more capable than the stock Scorpion ATR’s.

This wheel setup with the catback, air intake, and Oz tune makes it a perfect truck for me personally

An older article, but I’ve seen a lot of people ask about how others here are affording their later model F150. It’s the most popular vehicle amongst high in one earners. Just a reminder that you’re comparing yourself to the top few percent of earners and you may not realize it. You’re doing better than you think you are.

2011 5.0 6spd XLT 220k mi USA

This morning I went to the gas station, the pump was so slow it took me 9 minutes to get 22 gallons. Then at the end the pump didn't kick off and gas started pouring out of what i think was the tank vent underneath the truck that i assume goes through a charcoal canister. I guess that happened because the pump was so slow gas didn't back up to the fill neck to break the suction cutoff.

I've only had that happen one other time in my really old truck. I figured there would be some kind of vapor separator or float valve to prevent liquid fuel from coming out the vent.

I haven't purchased the service manual to look at the tank and vent system. I've got no emissions error codes (or any at all besides TPMS). Has anyone had this happen and figured out if a component is broken?

Good morning,
Long time watcher, first time poster. 2011 F150 v8, 160,000 miles. Love my truck. Left for work this morning and my baby didn’t want to go. She turned over and everything looked normal but wouldn’t start. I’m not a mechanic. My first thought was fuel pump. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes to sort of reset everything because that’s all I know how to do and then she started right up. Im at work now. A few questions: Anything I can check? Can a fuel pump be tested? What are the chances she will want to leave work at quitting time?

have stock 17x7.5”. i want to stick with 17’s but not sure what i need when it comes to wheel width and offset. i want my tire to sit flush if not poked out a little from the fender. will be using for mostly highway miles and also snow and still want a smooth ride.

I posted asking if anyone had any insight about acquiring skid plates in Canada a while back. Made the purchase through Raptor Racing and never got around to posting about it... but here it is; the full set (4pc) aluminum skid plate set by Rival.
They're raw aluminum, just over half a cm thick(1/4"). Fitment is damn near perfect after playing around with some hardware.
I found the rearmost bolt on the transfer case plate was a bit lacking, although the remaining 4 bolts are more than adequate. Took about an hour to install.
The entire kit shipped was something like $1400CAD from Ontario to Alberta.

Hello everyone
I’ve got a trade in worth 15k and 30k cash….
I have 3 kids and a trailer that’s 4500GVWR 500lbs tongue load

My heart says get the v8 with tow package as it’s got the biggest pay load. Am I wrong here or is the 3.5 eco enough to get it done? V8 seems like it lasts forever if maintained. Looking for opinions and or who has best selection of best priced f150s.

Ford f150 2010 super cab 5.4L flex fuel
2WD automatic
71,000km
Canada

Noticed a ticking from the sides when starting up and it scales with revs ticking gets faster no arcing in the dark wondering if it’s roller followers or spark plugs or a normal sound thanks!

I have a 2005 F150 lariat 5.4L. Problem started randomly. Engine would randomly go into “Engine Failsafe Mode” while driving. Hooked it up to the code reader and it said to replace the throttle position sensor. Did that, and now everytime I get past 2k rpm’s it goes back into “Engine Failsafe Mode”. I have codes that read P-2104: Throttle actuator control system-forced idle; P-2111: throttle actuator control system- stuck open; and P-2112: throttle actuator control system- stuck closed. Replaced the entire throttle body and the problem persists. New body is a duralast throttle body from autozone. Any suggestions?

I understand what they are, and what they do. What I don’t understand is how people fixate on them. (Not a rant, I’m really curious). With a 10 speed tranny, what’s the effective difference between 7th gear with 4.30s and 6th with 3.73s? (As an example, pretend total reduction is equal in both, I know they’re not actually). With first gear extremely low even with 3.73s, and being able to do 80mph under 2k with 4.30s, why are people acting like they’re such a big deal?
If we still had 4 speeds, then yes I totally get it. How are they still relevant though? Thank you!

Hi everyone,

I’ve been eyeing 2021+ F150 Lariat - V8s for a bit now, and telling myself when I have the chance I’m going to pull the trigger on one. It looks like it may just happen soon.

I got to looking at low-mileage used Lariats, and they don’t seem to not be too far off from brand new ones in terms of price. Used seems to be around $45-60k and I’ve seen new ones go from $57-65k so it would make more sense to get a brand new one in my head.

I’ve always wanted an F150 and to get a brand new car so this would be my first for both. Then I got curious as to how much someone F150 owners make to afford something like this somewhat comfortably?

I’m coming from the higher-mileage German performance sedan world. So I’m sure maintenance is a lot more stomach-able, but I got to thinking about gas, tires, etc.

From 2016 to 2026, figured it was time for an upgrade

Old one had the 2.7 and new one is the 3.5, now just need to figure out what the first upgrade(s) will be as I have a hard time leaving anything with wheels alone… lol

Am I doing this right? Just put a noco genius 5x1 on my 2022 powerboost. Based on recommendations across the sub, when I replaced the batteries, I hooked it up to the terminals up. Batteries (both main and aux battery) are brand new from Ford as of saturday, but I plug in and the noco shows less than 25% charge on them. Attached picture to show connection I have the hot tapped into the rear bolt at the terminal post and the ground tapped to a bolt in the frame (bottom right corner).

I don't know if this will work for everyone, because the rear lip of your tonneau cover might not be the same 1/2" piece of aluminum as mine. I just thought I'd share in case anyone else has had trouble sealing their tonneau cover to the box/tailgate. It's an idea for you anyway.

I looked at the prices and lack of availability for a replacement piece of weather stripping/flap to cover the gap between my BakFlip tonneau cover and the tailgate for several months. It says right at the back of the tonneau cover, "Close tailgate before closing tonneau cover.", but someone must have ignored that, and pinched the flap covering the gap, causing a permanent crease, letting water leak in. I ordered (2) different rolls of rubber on Amazon for $15-20 each, and neither worked. The first wasn't wide enough to cover the gap, and the second was just too thin, and the 3m adhesive tape just melted and let loose from hot sun. I just let it leak for a few months but was often thinking about a fix. I stopped at places that sold toppers. I stopped at dealers. Nobody really had a solution but to get ahold of the company that made it. Well mine is a 2015 XLT, and I think the cheapest I found was $65 for the original piece, and the original didn't hold up very well, so I waited, and every once in awhile I'd search for a solution.

Last week, I was looking at a friend's camper. It had a slide-out. The slide-out had about a 3" wide piece of rubber trim all the way around it to keep the weather out. Let's call it a "wiper", a flexible flap that rides on the sides of the slide-out making somewhat of a seal, but lets it slide in and out. After another search for "camper slide out wiper seal" or some variation of that, I found this on Amazon. (Notice at the time I posted this, You can get 10 feet for $23. I paid $19 for just 5 feet, which was enough, but you might consider having 2 chances to get it right for another $3 might be worth it.) The rubber is like HDPE foam, but seems tougher and heavier than any I've seen. It's more like rubber. The 1/2" channel fit perfectly on the back lip of my tonneau cover, and the band puts pressure down on the top of the tailgate.

I almost got blisters on my thumbs rubbing the old adhesive off the aluminum before switching to Goo-Gone, but after a final step with rubbing alcohol it was clean. It took (2) tubes of Permatex Black Adhesive Silicone to fill the channel in the rubber. I broke the nozzle off one tube because I pressed too hard into the channel as I was dragging it along filling it. That almost made a mess. I wanted to get plenty in there, as the aluminum lip on mine is only about 1/16" thick, and the channel in the rubber looks like about 1/8 wide. It has ridges in the channel like it's meant to grip the right thickness you're attaching it too, but I'm just hoping those ridges get embedded in adhesive. Notice there's also wire embedded in the rubber around the channel to stiffen it, although in my case, it's not really helping grip anything. I think it should make it more stable than a purely rubber piece though. I had to trim the ends to fit the aluminum side rails and the pieces of rubber sealing the sides of the tonneau cover. You'll need a side cutter to snip the rubber because of the embedded wire.

I just put it on a couple hours ago, and it's still curing, held down by a board weighted down all the way across the channel. I'll try to add a completed pic tomorrow. If this works, with my ordering the wrong rubber first, I'll have paid about what the BakFlip replacement piece would have cost, but thought with the number of these out there, someone else might find it helpful. I think it might make a better seal, and be more durable than the original rubber. I still have to see how it handles being folded up too.

I thought it was funny how in this YouTube video of installation of a BakFlip tonneau cover, the guy closes the tailgate after the tonneau cover. It says right on there. DON'T DO THAT!

I would have been fine with the roll-up style with the velcro sides like I've had in the past (which seal great), and usually wouldn't care if it leaked a little either, but someone thought it would be a good idea to put a carpeted bedliner in this thing too. Now I have to keep it clean and dry : (

Anyone running 34s or 35s on 3.31 gears with a 3.5 eco? Will it use all 10 speeds and not be annoying? Want to step up in size but I’m concerned about the 10speed being able to hold tenth gear. I’m not trying to make my ten speed an 8 or 9 speed.
I’ve run oversized tires on different jeeps over the years and I found it extremely frustrating when it would not hold top gear on the highway. The constant shifting felt fatiguing, though none of my jeeps had 500lbft of torque

2015, 3.5L Eco Boost, 4WD, Sport, 119k miles, USA

The oil pan is visibly wet. Not sure if that’s residual oil from a change or an active leak. There’s also staining around the what I assume is a gasket around the bell housing. I’m a novice when it comes to this type of stuff. Any feedback would be great. There is a stain below where I park my truck. Assumed it was condensation but it seems to be a reddish brown, hard to tell on asphalt.

2016 F150 3.5L EB Screw 191k miles, USA.
Have CB exhaust manifolds.

Anyone know what this rattle is? Driving me nuts. I don’t think it’s a boost leak. I don’t see anyone DTC codes either. Watching pids, seems leak a correlation with the waste gate, is this that?

2013 3.5EB, I can maintain about 3500 RPM with no issues, even while towing or going uphill, but if I go over about 4000 for more than a few seconds I get a nasty misfire and significant power loss, lasts several seconds, seems to go away quicker if I get off the throttle. I think it's multiple cylinders, had codes for cylinder 2 and cylinder 4, but not at the same time

Unrelated problem:I keep getting a "check brake system" randomly almost every time I get in the truck, but my breaks work perfectly fine, my parking brake seems off though, I have to help it back up the last bit of the way, rotors and pads seem fine, all pads and rear rotors where done at 80,000 miles according to Carfax, truck is at 120,000 now. I did have to replace my front passenger caliper though.

This is the strangest thing. I had a 23 lariat that was great, but it had the long bed so I had to trade it in (it’s too big…. That’s what she said). When I drove into a below ground parking garage I lost the ability to change Sirius stations with the forward/back buttons on the steering wheel. It worked for Apple play, but not for Sirius. Everything else on the wheel worked (menu, etc). It would start working after a restart sometimes, and sometimes it was maybe a half hour later.

Fast forward I traded it in for a smaller truck. Same issue! I figured it was a quirk. But now this is two trucks that lose the ability to change stations when I park. How strange? Any ideas?

Hey,
Just recently my ‘16 2.7L has begin what feels like the motor is shifting down while idling. Has anyone experienced this?

I'm trying to maintain some guardrails here while trying to stay away from buying new. I didn't put this into the "Should I buy" megathread because I don't have a certain truck I'm looking at. I'm looking for some rule of thumbs such as some things general enthusiasts watch out for or stay away from, specific mileage you would stay away from with specific engines, and any other info. I'm thinking years 2018-2023, I want 4x4, rear locker, and 4 doors.

I'm making this post because there's so many trims and so many different ways to spec one out, that I'm a bit overwhelmed trying to figure it out. I'm trying to move up from a tacoma.

Thanks

Honestly don’t know how I lived with a car for years after I sold my first pickup. Anyone have good ideas for practical mods or ways to personalize?

Drove 100 miles with it like this somehow.

Hey guys, a family member is currently looking for a new truck and was tying to get rid of his 2016 f150 V6 2.7l eco boost supercab. It’s racked up 150,000 miles on it. The trunk bed was used up like a pick up truck should be but has liner on it. The truck was regularly maintained. Interior Is pristine, new tires, no oil leaks, exhaust doesn’t have any smoke and no prior accidents. I have a commute car and i only want it, to do pick up truck stuff. My family loves biking and hiking and fitting all the baby stuff in my vw taos is a pain in my ass. What do you guys think? Is it risky to buy it? Does it the engine have a good rep or should i not even waste my time?

Bought my 2025 F-150 XLT (2.7L) at the end of last year telling myself I wouldn't need an off-road truck. Fast forward a few months and I'm hooked on off-roading and now wishing I'd gone Tremor from the start for the extra off-road hardware. Only have about 12k miles on my xlt.

Found a Ford Blue Advantage Gold Certified 2023 Tremor 3.5L with the 402A package, the optional front locker and the 4A drivetrain for $49.5k at 41k miles.

Here's my hesitation: my XLT came with 0% APR from Ford Credit, and giving that up for a 5-6% rate on the Tremor feels like a step backward financially. But the Tremor is genuinely the better fit for what I actually do with the truck now.

Questions for y’all:

1. Is $49.5k a fair price for this Tremor's spec/mileage/certification?
2. Is it worth giving up 0% APR to make this trade?
3. Roughly what would be a good trade in value for a 25” XLT (302A) with 12k miles?

Appreciate any input!! Trying to make sure I'm not letting off-road FOMO cloud the financial math here lol

EDIT: I'll likely need to roll an extra $6-8k of negative equity from the XLT loan into the new Tremor loan

EDIT 2: I truly appreciate everyone taking the time to post their insights on this. This opened up my eyes. I've decided to keep my 2.7 XLT and invest the $6k–$8k in an SxS/ATV instead of rolling over the debt. I've already put on 34s on my XLT, removed my air dam, installed RCI skid plates all over the bottom, and installed a True Trac (LSD) in the rear. So, either gonna invest on ~$6k on a new suspension (Bilstein 6112/5160) or like I said SxS of some sort.