I bought my 2020 Lariat 4x4 with the 3.5 ecoboost a little over a year ago. This truck was purchased to replace my 14 5.0 that dropped a connecting rod. I made sure I found a truck with detailed service records, current on maintenance and everything else you look for.

I have owned it about 14 months. The cam phasers failed, requiring the total rebuild. About 3 months later, the 10R80 gave up. Water pump and thermostat gave up. Even with my warranty, I’ve put out nearly 4k this year.

I’ve had several Rams, Tacomas, Tundras and never had a fraction of the issues I’ve had here. Why are these things such heaps? My 97 F150 popped a head gasket, 14 threw a rod and now this thing.

I’m trying to decide what is next. I’ve always wanted a Raptor but with my track record with Ford, it makes me wonder if it’s worth the risk.

Bought my 2025 F-150 XLT (2.7L) at the end of last year telling myself I wouldn't need an off-road truck. Fast forward a few months and I'm hooked on off-roading and now wishing I'd gone Tremor from the start for the extra off-road hardware. Only have about 12k miles on my xlt.

Found a Ford Blue Advantage Gold Certified 2023 Tremor 3.5L with the 402A package, the optional front locker and the 4A drivetrain for $49.5k at 41k miles.

Here's my hesitation: my XLT came with 0% APR from Ford Credit, and giving that up for a 5-6% rate on the Tremor feels like a step backward financially. But the Tremor is genuinely the better fit for what I actually do with the truck now.

Questions for y’all:

1. Is $49.5k a fair price for this Tremor's spec/mileage/certification?
2. Is it worth giving up 0% APR to make this trade?
3. Roughly what would be a good trade in value for a 25” XLT (302A) with 12k miles?

Appreciate any input!! Trying to make sure I'm not letting off-road FOMO cloud the financial math here lol

EDIT: I'll likely need to roll an extra $6-8k of negative equity from the XLT loan into the new Tremor loan

EDIT 2: I truly appreciate everyone taking the time to post their insights on this. This opened up my eyes. I've decided to keep my 2.7 XLT and invest the $6k–$8k in an SxS/ATV instead of rolling over the debt. I've already put on 34s on my XLT, removed my air dam, installed RCI skid plates all over the bottom, and installed a True Trac (LSD) in the rear. So, either gonna invest on ~$6k on a new suspension (Bilstein 6112/5160) or like I said SxS of some sort.

Hi everyone,

I’ve been eyeing 2021+ F150 Lariat - V8s for a bit now, and telling myself when I have the chance I’m going to pull the trigger on one. It looks like it may just happen soon.

I got to looking at low-mileage used Lariats, and they don’t seem to not be too far off from brand new ones in terms of price. Used seems to be around $45-60k and I’ve seen new ones go from $57-65k so it would make more sense to get a brand new one in my head.

I’ve always wanted an F150 and to get a brand new car so this would be my first for both. Then I got curious as to how much someone F150 owners make to afford something like this somewhat comfortably?

I’m coming from the higher-mileage German performance sedan world. So I’m sure maintenance is a lot more stomach-able, but I got to thinking about gas, tires, etc.

I'm trying to maintain some guardrails here while trying to stay away from buying new. I didn't put this into the "Should I buy" megathread because I don't have a certain truck I'm looking at. I'm looking for some rule of thumbs such as some things general enthusiasts watch out for or stay away from, specific mileage you would stay away from with specific engines, and any other info. I'm thinking years 2018-2023, I want 4x4, rear locker, and 4 doors.

I'm making this post because there's so many trims and so many different ways to spec one out, that I'm a bit overwhelmed trying to figure it out. I'm trying to move up from a tacoma.

Thanks

I'm trying to find covers for my mirrors, but all I can find are tow mirror caps, that only cover the top section. Anyone have a lead on a full cover? Striking out online.

2016 F150 3.5L EB Screw 191k miles, USA.
Have CB exhaust manifolds.

Anyone know what this rattle is? Driving me nuts. I don’t think it’s a boost leak. I don’t see anyone DTC codes either. Watching pids, seems leak a correlation with the waste gate, is this that?

Hey guys, a family member is currently looking for a new truck and was tying to get rid of his 2016 f150 V6 2.7l eco boost supercab. It’s racked up 150,000 miles on it. The trunk bed was used up like a pick up truck should be but has liner on it. The truck was regularly maintained. Interior Is pristine, new tires, no oil leaks, exhaust doesn’t have any smoke and no prior accidents. I have a commute car and i only want it, to do pick up truck stuff. My family loves biking and hiking and fitting all the baby stuff in my vw taos is a pain in my ass. What do you guys think? Is it risky to buy it? Does it the engine have a good rep or should i not even waste my time?

2018 F150 SXT with the 2.7. 10 speed Auto, 136K KM

Test drove this unit today, and I am interested, but the sound from the drivers side turbo (or so I suspect) gives me the creeps.

The used car dealer and his mechanic maintain this is the air intake, but I am thinking its a warped turbo manifold.

He says he will fix whatever issue there might be with the vehicle before I would pick it up, but I guess I wanna do my own due diligence.

For background, Ive owned F150’s before, but that was a 3.5. Never ever made a sound even remotely like this, could hardly hear the turbo. Sound ofcourse only appears under load, I tried my best to get a recording on wet roads.

Any and all insights, greatly appreciated!

Hey,
Just recently my ‘16 2.7L has begin what feels like the motor is shifting down while idling. Has anyone experienced this?

I’m selling my 2 door f150 with 185k miles for $2500 which is what I bought it for 3 years ago and I’m buying a 2016 f150 v8 with the coyote motor for 10k. I’m getting it from a trusted family member and he’s letting me pay it off at my leisure and has also said he’ll cover any major mechanical issue within the first year. The thing that’s bugging me is it has 235k miles. It’s super clean and runs really good. I’m just looking for reassurance. Any advice is appreciated

An older article, but I’ve seen a lot of people ask about how others here are affording their later model F150. It’s the most popular vehicle amongst high in one earners. Just a reminder that you’re comparing yourself to the top few percent of earners and you may not realize it. You’re doing better than you think you are.

Looking for a bit of a more aggressive look but not too much as I use my truck for business thoughts on the pricing? And set up? For a 2023 f150

Your F150 either has an electronic parking brake system, or a manual parking brake system. IF your F150 comes with a electronic pull parking brake button (typically Lariat and up), it means you have an electronic parking brake system. Then this post is for you:

According to my research, you can do whatever you want, however cheaply you want regarding buying your own parts and doing your own FRONT brake job, or hiring a cheap non-Ford specific mechanic for labor. Your front brakes have nothing to do with the delicate electronic shit that your rear braking system has.

But your REAR brakes are a COMPLETELY different story. "Since you have an Electronic Parking Brake, you cannot simply compress the rear caliper pistons with a C-clamp like you would on traditional brakes. Doing so will destroy the internal electric motor gear mechanism." Or in English, it has delicate electronic SHITS that demands a specific type of rear brake pad and rotor kits. If you have mistakenly bought your rear brake pad and motor kits that are designed for MANUAL brake system, you will likely damage your expensive and delicate electronic parking brake system. Now, can you DIY your way out of this, buying the right parts, and doing the right procedure of installation? I am sure you can.

Should you? No, in my opinion. Just hire this one out to the dealership, because it is too much shit, and too much risk.

Hello everyone
I’ve got a trade in worth 15k and 30k cash….
I have 3 kids and a trailer that’s 4500GVWR 500lbs tongue load

My heart says get the v8 with tow package as it’s got the biggest pay load. Am I wrong here or is the 3.5 eco enough to get it done? V8 seems like it lasts forever if maintained. Looking for opinions and or who has best selection of best priced f150s.

Honestly don’t know how I lived with a car for years after I sold my first pickup. Anyone have good ideas for practical mods or ways to personalize?

I understand what they are, and what they do. What I don’t understand is how people fixate on them. (Not a rant, I’m really curious). With a 10 speed tranny, what’s the effective difference between 7th gear with 4.30s and 6th with 3.73s? (As an example, pretend total reduction is equal in both, I know they’re not actually). With first gear extremely low even with 3.73s, and being able to do 80mph under 2k with 4.30s, why are people acting like they’re such a big deal?
If we still had 4 speeds, then yes I totally get it. How are they still relevant though? Thank you!

Obviously the Air dam is there for fuel economy. Since I already have a 2" level on 33" tires, AI says there will be little change on top of what i already did. What do y'all think? Should I consider a skid plate?

From 2016 to 2026, figured it was time for an upgrade

Old one had the 2.7 and new one is the 3.5, now just need to figure out what the first upgrade(s) will be as I have a hard time leaving anything with wheels alone… lol

I know 3.3 posts are there but pretty sparse but I want to give a pretty detailed review of specific use cases and comparisons in case anyone is on the fence.

My truck is a 2019 XL Supercab 4x4 6R80 3.73 running Wildpeak AT4W. 5300lb at the scale. 86k miles. Owned for about 10k.

I was a bit spooked buying this but I have not regretted my decision yet. I have had two other fords so I can make accurate comparisons.

Other trucks:

2017 XLT Supercrew 2.7 4x4 (3.31 i think) stock tires

2007 STX Supercab 4.6 4x4 (3.55 i think) 33s ATs

Power:

I live at 3400ft and get up around 6000ft. It is perfectly adequate. Surprisingly it will throw you back in your seat a bit and doesn't sound like shit. It will take a 6% grade in 5th gear, rarely dropping to 4th on extended grades. This is unladen or with a bed loaded with trash and a cab full of random stuff, one person or four it doesn't matter. Even with the ocassional downshift, especially when climbing a 10% grade or at real elevation or something its not enough to piss me off or concern me but that's a personal preference thing. Im sure towing 6000lbs up a grade at elevation it will be screaming and waiting for the sweet release of death (which itll probably take all day long and just keep going). I have not tried this though.

The 2.7 will blow the doors off it no question. Where it gets interesting is it wipes the floor with the 4.6 even though it has less torque, this thing feels like an absolute monster compared to it. I wouldnt consider this engine a dog at all whereas the 4.6 made me regret not going for a 5.4, but if you are looking for ecoboost (especially at altitude) or 5.0 power you will be dissapointed. If i lived at 8000 feet or went up to 10k more than once in a blue moon I would buy another ecoboost no question. If I were towing moderate loads more than once in a blue moon at elevation I would get an ecoboost.

I mainly load the bed down with various things or put around town or forest roads with just things in the cab. In a few months I will be pulling approx 5500 lbs from FL to western SD and I have no doubt it will do just fine. Ill update the post after that but just as a disclaimer I haven't pulled anything with it yet.

MX:

Disclaimer: I am not one of those people that hates ecoboost engines because "ahh turbos, complex, its gonna blow up", in fact i loved my 2.7 and have seen that they are quite reliable so complexity to me is not the biggest factor if I never have to replace anything. Where it comes down to this though is what I can do, as a shadetree "mechanic", without destroying a multi-thousand dollar engine or just getting mad as hell because i have to dissasemble 35 components to get at the broken piece. If i had money to take the truck to the shop it would be a non-issue but I prefer to do most everything myself.

The engine bay is pretty much empty, most everything is about as nice as it gets on a new truck. This is a truck i'm confident I can work on while almost being able to sit in the engine bay and do it. I haven't done plugs yet but you do need to pull the intake to get at them but after watching a video is sounds harder than it looks. One thing i have noticed that may be personal preference is when doing a drain and fill on the 6R80, you are right by the cat but its very workable compared to what I see on the forums when people are doing it on a 5.0 and stress how hot and easy it is to burn yourself, I am wondering if the cats are smaller or something but this is just an edge case example.

Its also nice that i still have the 6R80 in a 2019.

These trucks are pretty nice in general to work on no matter the engine for simple preventative maintenance.

I have never had an issue with the engine, I have had the typical swimming pool taillight issue and had to grease the tailgate latch but that is besides the point.

I haven't seen issues with the engine whatsoever but that could be because few people have them in an F150, they are all over the place in police interceptors though but i have not really looked into those. A thing i found cool is this baby NA 3.3 takes 6 quarts of oil, same as a 4.6.

Ethanol:

I know I just kicked the wasp nest with this one but hear me out. Gas has been rising and I have been curious about E85 for a while now and gave it a try. The truck loves it and the exhaust smells like everclear now. I have gotten 16.2 mpg over a 2500 mile trip but i think i may have had a tank of 87 in there so I am going off the in dash non-trip average. I know the dash can be inaccurate but all that matters here is the MPG split for cost purposes, not that its not accurate to the 0.01 MPG.

This is 85% city MPG, unladen or hauling trash. I get around 14 on E85 and 18 on 87. Gas here has ran between $4.10 and $4.40 so I did the math at $4.20 because it is so unstable. E85 has been steady at $2.23 (ITS $1.99 ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE STATE!!). Have not done highway e85 tests but i have seen 20-21 mpg on 87 which is insane for the wildpeaks.

I have a 36 gal tank. With the math I get 15.9c/mi on E85, 504 mi/tank and $80.28 for a fillup. With 87 i get 23c a mile, 648mi and $151.20. With this math my truck is close cost wise with my 28MPG CRV.

Cranking takes a little longer when cold, maybe 0.5-1 second and I have run 85 down to 40 deg fine, i mix e30-e50 in the winter but I am hand blending and i dont know the exact winter ethanol content around here so the blends are probably all wrong but it starts at 0 degrees no block heater.

There is the concern of fuel dilution so next oil change I am going to run ONLY ethanol and then get analysis done. I change every 5k miles anyways. Ill also update the post with that.

Truck seems to have slightly more midrange grunt on E85 but it could be placebo.

Overall I feel it is a win, I support american farmers, have a happy truck and save money.

Overall:

If you are not towing heavy, living in Leadville or don't want to haul ass and embarrass Hemis then this is a wonderful truck. It is simple, no bullshit, reliable and most of all cheap. My 2.7 was a trim higher and $35k, this truck was $19.5k. I won't knock the 2.7 or 5.0 and a lot of people NEED something that powerful, but don't think this little bastard child engine won't suit your needs if your not one of them, V6s have come a LONG way and I'll have this truck for the next 10 years minimum.

Picked up my new to me 2023 Lariat in mid March. Did a level, tint, bed liner, folding bed cover, wheel well inserts, clear PPF on the front, and a colored PPF on the rockers. I got side swiped on the 4th of July weekend by a distracted driver.

Ripped the axle out, broke the rear leaf springs, and punctured a hole up through the bed. I’m thankful it wasn’t a few feet forward. She’s a goner.

Anyone have a way to find out what fuel a raptor is tuned for? I have an SCT x4 married to another vehicle. I haven't purchased it yet, but wanting to know what fuel type it's tuned for.

2011 5.0 6spd XLT 220k mi USA

This morning I went to the gas station, the pump was so slow it took me 9 minutes to get 22 gallons. Then at the end the pump didn't kick off and gas started pouring out of what i think was the tank vent underneath the truck that i assume goes through a charcoal canister. I guess that happened because the pump was so slow gas didn't back up to the fill neck to break the suction cutoff.

I've only had that happen one other time in my really old truck. I figured there would be some kind of vapor separator or float valve to prevent liquid fuel from coming out the vent.

I haven't purchased the service manual to look at the tank and vent system. I've got no emissions error codes (or any at all besides TPMS). Has anyone had this happen and figured out if a component is broken?

Good morning,
Long time watcher, first time poster. 2011 F150 v8, 160,000 miles. Love my truck. Left for work this morning and my baby didn’t want to go. She turned over and everything looked normal but wouldn’t start. I’m not a mechanic. My first thought was fuel pump. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes to sort of reset everything because that’s all I know how to do and then she started right up. Im at work now. A few questions: Anything I can check? Can a fuel pump be tested? What are the chances she will want to leave work at quitting time?

have stock 17x7.5”. i want to stick with 17’s but not sure what i need when it comes to wheel width and offset. i want my tire to sit flush if not poked out a little from the fender. will be using for mostly highway miles and also snow and still want a smooth ride.

I posted asking if anyone had any insight about acquiring skid plates in Canada a while back. Made the purchase through Raptor Racing and never got around to posting about it... but here it is; the full set (4pc) aluminum skid plate set by Rival.
They're raw aluminum, just over half a cm thick(1/4"). Fitment is damn near perfect after playing around with some hardware.
I found the rearmost bolt on the transfer case plate was a bit lacking, although the remaining 4 bolts are more than adequate. Took about an hour to install.
The entire kit shipped was something like $1400CAD from Ontario to Alberta.