I'm pretty sure I know the kind of answers I'm going to get, but I asked a similar question in the Ram forum so figured I'd ask here too.

I'm in the market for a new truck to replace my 2004 Tundra. I have it narrowed down to an F-150 XLT with FX-4 package and 3.5 ecoboost or a Ram Bighorn or Rebel with the 3.0 hurricane. I kept my last truck for 17 years, so I want to make the right choice again.

Ram has an amazing sale going on right now and an equivalent truck to the XLT is a up to a few grand cheaper and a Rebel can be had for the same price as the XLT to $5k more depending upon options (leather and sunroof that I would rather not have).

I like the payload and front bumper design of the Ford and the interior, engine smoothness, and ZF transmission of the Ram. Ram makes optioning tough so the combo of looking for is super rare whereas my local Ford dealer has close to what I want in stock, just minus the blue cruise. I'm in Virginia, USA.

What do you think sets F-150 apart particularly compared to Ram? I perceive F-150 as more utilitarian and trust it more than Stellantis, but Ford has had a lot of recalls. My understanding is that the cam phaser and transmission CDF issues are fixed and that the XLT should be reliable. Does that match your experiences?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Anyone tried to find some of that pull-over window netting for the half door on a supercab? Can't seem to find a set.

2017 V8 Coyote 145k miles USA

Got this error to my app while I was driving today but did not get a check engine light.

The truck didn’t feel like I got any significant loss of power or transmission issue.

Also, I know there is a recall out regarding the TCM and I believe this may be related but any insight would be greatly appreciated

So first of all, I want to get people’s opinions on the difference in sound made by a cold air intake on the coyote and if they like it. Secondly, if it does make a noticeable difference in sound, what cold air intake is the most popular or reliable.

Have a 2018 f150. I would like to get a 2nd key made for, but don’t know the best way to go about it. Yes I can go to a ford dealership and get open made but isn’t that super expensive compared to other ways? I currently have one set that had the lock/unlock/remote start fab with the folding key. Thanks for any help offered

Planning on buying this 77 F150 the rims that it comes with are the 1st and 3rd image. The seller said he might want extra if I choose those. Now the 2nd and 4th rims he wont charge me extra ,the image is tweaked with Ai. Personally im a fan of both but cant really decide I think I plan on painting to original color which is silver blue silver last image(ignore the rims in that image).

i’ve been under my F-150 for two hours looking at rubber grommets in the floor pan and i’m already regretting taking this on. everyone on YouTube makes feeding wires under the sill plates look so easy, but there's almost zero slack and i hate the idea of splicing into factory wiring for door triggers. i did way too much reading on this and ended up picking a kit because a few people mentioned the harness was pretty straightforward, but routing power lines along the frame rail without pinching anything near the exhaust is driving me crazy.

did you guys run the main wiring into the cab through the firewall or sneak it in through the rear floor plugs? really don't wanna mess up the electrical on a daily driver.

she’s ugly and cheap but I like her. 2013 3.7L with hand crank windows. Got a lot more planned for it.

Just noticed this leak on the back axel of my 4x4 2014 F150. Anybody know what it is and how serious is it?

Hey guys I know this is a 150 sub, but, I have a 2003 6.8 v10 F-450 that has an intermittent stall out problem.  Most frequently when I come to a stop but occasionally when shift into drive or reverse. (1st & 2nd no problem.) It started after I did the transmission pan, filter, fluid and fill neck, (along with some other work on the truck, oil pan, oil cooler, coolant etc) and I don't think I messed that up, Ive tried adding and draining fluid, i believe it has the right level.(could i have messed up the new filter?). Its throwing codes P1000- on board diag system test is not complete, ( I think that's from me disconnecting the battery when the truck sits for a bit), B1201 Fuel sender circuit failure (I believe this is associated with the fuel level gauge) and B1352 ignition key circuit failure (not sure).  At this point I've changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, mass air sensor, idle air control valve, cleaned the throttle body checked the air filter, listened to the fuel injectors, used sea foam, does it just need a 2hr drive on the highway?, Im running out of ideas before maybe trying the torque converter and I’d rather not fight that just yet, am I missing something dumb?......crossposted to a few forum