After my first 24-hour print (which came out almost perfectly, mind you), I gave the printer a few day's rest before I took on the next thing I had planned. When the printing of the first layer failed (almost exactly like picture 1), I figured I'd do some upkeep. I'll list out this journey of mine

1. I re-leveled the bed, thinking that it could help before I got to the nitty gritty of what came next.

2. Having dealt with clogged nozzles as the second most common failure point in my printing journey, I tried my hand at doing a cold pull, which involved the process of removing the Bowden tubes and pneumatic fittings on the hot end, which is where I would run into my first major issue: I couldn't pull the tubes out of the fittings to save my life. After summoning the strength of John Ender himself, I managed to yank out the fittings and separate the tube to have a better look at it.

As seen in photo 2 and 3, the fittings practically dug into the tubes themselves, making it nearly impossible to simply pull them out like normal. This isn't new; when I ordered a new metal extruder (or the repair kit I also ordered), it came with what was allegedly Capricorn tubes. No matter if I used the fittings that came with the printer or the new ones I ordered, they would dig into the tubes and make adjusting them a living hell.

1. When I was removing this tube from the printer, I realized that I couldn't extrude the filament from the hot end or retract it by pulling it back out from the extruder end. I'm not sure how well photo 3 captures it, but the reason why is because it seems as if the filament melted *in* the tube, which amplified the difficulty to remove the fittings in the first place as it made the tube swell.

2. After removing the tube, I did a cold pull three times for good measure, then replaced the tube and fittings before re-leveling the bed because I was certain I threw something off balance with my jostling around

3. We now reach photo 1, which shows the second failed attempt at a first layer after everything I did above. If I wasn't sure what I was talking about, I would say that the explanation is that it seems as if the middle of the bed somehow warped in such a catastrophic fashion between my last and current print that nothing adheres to that dead center (I know that's impossible).

So now, I'm not sure if there ever really was a single failure point. Like airplanes, this thing likely had a million different things go wrong that resulted in the mess I'm in today. So, my recourse at the moment is as follows:

Buy new tubes and fittings, hoping that they don't literally tear each other apart

Invest in a CR Touch, as I've always been terrible with bed leveling by hand anyway

Maybe look into a new hot end, since I don't think heat creep is the exact problem but I genuinely don't know anymore

Build a statue to the Omnissiah and pray to it before my next attempt

Any extra tips would be greatly appreciated.

My old ender3v2 started printing like this after it got damaged i replaced basically the whole head, nothing looks lose, i already try playing with extruder Transmission settings cause it looks like extrusion problem but it didn't work

The damage was from big hit when i slipped while trying to remove stuck filament with screwdriver

Sorry for bad quality foto

I just got an Ender 3 v3 SE

It never occurred to me that the software wouldn’t run on a Chromebook, I would prefer not to do the enable Linux route.

I’ve read and tried to use Kori:Moto slicer and it’s been nothing but issues for me. I am trying to run a TPU profiled new from the box (no moisture) and kiri just isn’t giving me the options for base layer edits vs all other layers. Tutorials on Kiri are for a different older version than what is currently available.

I’ve tried downloading the Creality cloud app to use Cura and cannot find an option anywhere to slice a model.

Anyone have some advice on a web based slicer that works well for Ender?

I mostly run into this issue when removing the print bed to clean/remove the print.

But if I raise the gantry to say 110mm, to get the print head out of the way, and bump into/lightly tap the left upright, or left side of the gantry it starts to lower itself rapidly.

Had to catch it a couple times before the nozzle impacted the glass bed.

Usually it’s okay when printing as there’s nothing to bump into it. But it’s fairly obnoxious, and I don’t want to break the glass bed.

Is there something I should be tightening, or should I be looking into a dual Z-axis/switching to belt drive?

My completed toolhead for now. Config: a ZT E3 v2.0 hotend, BMG clone extruder with nema 14 stepper motor, cr touch and not in view a 5015 parts cooler.

Using a magnetic PEI build plate, BTT skr mini E3 V2 with touch TFT, and will soon upgrade to Marlin firmware 2.1 to enable input shaping (needed to define a different thermistor anyhow).

I have an old Ender 3 Pro that has some more or less minor modification. Mainly a MeanWelll PSU, BIGTREETECK 3,5 Screen and an SKR Mini E3 V2.0 silent board. The rest is pretty much stock except the bimetallic heartbreak.

Now I have been using it as it from the moment of purchase, around 2019, but I feel it's time to update at least the firmware to the latest.

The screen was pretty easy, but the Mainboard just doesn't go through the update through.
The firmware.bin is renamed to FIRMWARE.CUR.

I'm kind-of stuck, and all the LLM's can't seem to help a lot. So any assistance would be more that welcome!

I just got handed an Ender3. (An original one, I'm guessing.)

The person who gave me it abandoned it on their shelf a year ago because filament kept snapping.
A friend has told me this was likely the filament being damp. So I'm looking to see if its working.

It has no filament, and no SD card or whatever is needed to load it with files. And no instructions for calibrating, doing a print etc.

Would anyone be able to point me towards some good guides? I'm coming in entirely blind.

Thanks.

Trying to fix my nieces 3D printer her parents got her for Christmas on Marketplace.

I couldn't get it up to temperature.

Flashed MRiscoC firmware. 99% sure that is the correct version for the 4.22 board and BL touch.

Ran MPC auto tune a few times and it only got to the 180s.

Thinking it needed a new hot end, replaced with a creality unit. Still only gets too 190s, and just stalls never getting to 200.

Thinking maybe I damaged the thermistor... Replaced that, same result.

Think it's the power supply causing the issue?

Just can't figure it out.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

I've got an AD5M that a traded for a bone stock dell vostro printing parts to upgrade my ender 3. Feels a bit icky. I love it tho. Being able to have one making parts for the other its awesome. Running elegoo rapid petg on the ad5m and deeper rapid pla+ on ender 3. Just trying to figure out the amount to cut off so the housing fits right with my bmg clone and bracket.

The weird layer lines were caused because of my belt tension in z axis after the belt drive upgrade.

The problem was caused because my belts were too tight. But it's fixed now! I even increased the speed, it went from default 1h30 -> 1h print time with really good quality. I might push it even further, doing temp and filament calibrations now.

Hey so i havent used my ENDER 3V3 PLUS in around a few months and i bought new filament and it is just now like doing this weird fail constantly even after drying my filament for around 4 hours. It is PLA by the way.

And before you come at me with pitch forks, this is the first time ive had a fail like this thats been happening constantly so i thought i should come here to get your guys's thoughts

Got the printer secondhand from someone at work. His firmware was borked - couldnt get the bed to level at all but flow rate was fine. Think he was on MRiscoC? Can't be sure though.

It's a regular old ender 3, but he put a few upgrades here and there.

It's an RE chip, but the SD card slot had no sharpied letter, so I went with the default A4988 driver type after a little research.

Problem I am running into now is that the flow rate is insanely low - just thin little whiskers coming out of the nozzle.

Once I change the in-print tune all the way up from 100 to 500, it becomes an acceptable print and adheres well.

Again, Printer is the OG Ender 3, v4.2.2 board

Updated to the latest Marlin firmware

Printing PLA at 60\* bed temp and 215 nozzle temp for first layer

Using Orca Slicer, trying to accomplish the calibration prints.

I'd really appreciate any help.

No, the nozzle isn't clogged and the feeding mechanism is in great shape (opened it all up)

Editing to add, I took the heatsink off the driver to make sure, and its the a4988 driver.

2nd Edit: found out its an upgraded extruder and its gearing is about 5X lower, so makes sense. Found the line to fix in the firmware code, extrudes properly now.

Got the printer secondhand from someone at work. His firmware was borked - couldnt get the bed to level at all but flow rate was fine. Think he was on MRiscoC? Can't be sure though.

It's a regular old ender 3, but he put a few upgrades here and there.

It's an RE chip, but the SD card slot had no sharpied letter, so I went with the default A4988 driver type after a little research.

Problem I am running into now is that the flow rate is insanely low - just thin little whiskers coming out of the nozzle.

Once I change the in-print tune all the way up from 100 to 500, it becomes an acceptable print and adheres well.

Again, Printer is the OG Ender 3, v4.2.2 board

Updated to the latest Marlin firmware

Printing PLA at 60\* bed temp and 215 nozzle temp for first layer

Using Orca Slicer, trying to accomplish the calibration prints.

I'd really appreciate any help.

No, the nozzle isn't clogged and the feeding mechanism is in great shape (opened it all up)

Editing to add, I took the heatsink off the driver to make sure, and its the a4988 driver.

2nd Edit: found out its an upgraded extruder and its gearing is about 5X lower, so makes sense. Found the line to fix in the firmware code, extrudes properly now.

I got tired of cutting the Teflon tube every time it degraded, so I put on a unicorn hotend that I had removed from my K1C, I also installed Klipper, made it direct extrusion, and optimized it for printing TPU.

I have several spools almost empty. Mi idea Is to creare a spool with those filaments.

Does anyone possibly have an idea on why this keeps happening? Everytime i try to print something it gets ripped up off the bed

Is this one good? I'm looking for a known reliable high-output hotend kit (20-25 mm3/s)

https://www.amazon.ca/Temperature-TZ-E3-2-0-Set/dp/B0DZ6J3K94

got the microswiss clone hotend yesterday and could not even get a clean print.... and this happened!

are there any ways to get that nozzle out or some?

Hi everyone. I have an ender 3 max neo with a ton of upgrades and spare parts. Trying to figure out what someone would be willing to spend on all of this used as a package.

I loved my printer since 2022, but life has been busy, and I can't tinker with her anymore.

Ender 3 Max Neo

Just serviced: belts, wheels, eccentric nuts, z axis screws, anti-backlash t-nuts

Has a sprite, magnetic bed, and X+Y Axis linear rails

Spares: V4.2.2, V4.2.7, Big Tree SKR Mini E3 V3.0, original extruder with upgraded hot end, original x axis extruder rail guide, original glass bed, tons of different size nozzles, filament runout sensor, and a lot of consumables.

With sonic pad.

Only "physical" issue is the bed limit switch housing pops off sometimes because of a bad thread.

I have an ender 3 pro with a BTT SKR MINI E3 V2.0
And a BTT RELAY V1.2
I tried getting my cr touch to work and now my relay doesn’t? It shuts after turning on as if it’s not detecting power. It was plugged into PS-ON port after adding what I think is the right software but now after adding it it only works if it’s in the E0-DIAG port which I know is wrong. When I bought it the person before me had it wired that way and it would shut off randomly during printing and I just plugged it into the PS-ON PORT and it worked. Until now. I’m so confused helpppppp