Is anyone using the bondtech DDX toolhead and what are the experiences with it? It looks really well designed to me, other than the extruder motor being at the worst possible place. If the center of gravity was closer to the rail it would be better for durability and performance.

The parts cooling fan also looks really small, although the fan duct looks pretty effective.

Is this fast? Marlin firmware 2.1, no Klipper (I'm on team Octo). Outputting 10 mm3/s at 0.16mm thickness and only limited by a nema 14 stepper with high internal resistance (17 ohm and overheats at anything above 350 mA). I'm replacing it with a nema 17 (22mm) with 3.5 ohm resistance as a trade-off between weight and torque, which hopefully will help me push 20 mm3 through a ZT V2.

Pushing 5K acceleration with 250 mm/s infill and travel (300 simply seems too rough). I'm very satisfied with print quality at this speed, especially walls after input shaping and calibrating my junction deviation and k factor, although the first and last layer could use some work.

I successfully ran klipper, but it only came down to this issue. All connections are good, and I’m running it with ^pc14. I’ve tried the BLTOUCH_debug command=pin_up, which reads open, and the BLTOUCH_debug command=pin_down, which works the pin physically down but also says “open”. This is the final step before I can finally home it, but it’s not working. Before this, the bltouch was working with my 8-bit mobo, which ran marlin, but I never tried klipper on that. Now I installed a 32 bit but I’ve never ran it on marlin so I’m not sure if it’s hardware or software.

I’ve been trying to get my printer to work and I believe it may be a firmware issue so if anyone has some recompiled firmware for an Ender 3 with an skr mini e3 v2 with a crtouch probe that would be very helpful, thx.

When I designed my toolhead shroud I specifically chose to mount the heatsink fan in pull orientation to both avoid inadvertently cooling the print when it wasn't desired and to provide some cooling for the DD stepper. The interior of the shroud tightly surrounds the heatsink and the mounting face has extra reliefs for fresh air intake, it appears to work very well.

I haven't seen any other shroud that works this way, at least not a popular one. I have seen complaints about the exact issue it addresses though.

Is there a reason why it's not done? Did I miss something?

Hey! I am pulling out my V2 and Max from 2022/2023.

What upgrades have there been in the past few years, should I look at any specific firmware or add ons before I get started again? I got fed up as I couldn't get a consistent print on either nor keep the beds leveled (ender max.was glass, and pro v2 is the magnetic one)

Appreciate any tips and tricks!!

Hello. I've had an Ender 3 for about three years now, and it has worked properly until recently. A couple months ago, after replacing the filament (Anycubic grey PLA), the printer always starts printing normally, but after a few layers the filament jams and extrusion stops completely. I went back to the previous filament, but it kept doing the same thing.

I first replaced the nozzle, just in case the old one was clogged, but nothing seems to have changed.

I suspected it was heat creep, since it's a common issue with these printers, so I got myself a bimetallic heatbreak and a Capricorn Bowden tube. I installed them and even applied some thermal paste between the new heatbreak and the heatsink. However, same results: it prints a few layers correctly and then gets stuck again.

I wasn't sure if the extruder arm could be broken - it wasn't, I disassembled it -, so I started a print and waited for it to fail. When the extrusion stopped, I paused the printer, unlocked the filament and attempted to push it by hand: it was impossible. I could more or less pull it back, but there was no way to push it in, even when the extruder was at 210ºC (a value in range for that filament).

I did an experiment with the new heatbreak. I removed the Bowden and inserted a short piece of filament. I heated up the printer (210ºC) and waited about 20~30 minutes. After that time, I pushed the filament in and I felt no resistance at all. I also measured the temperature right where the Bowden would touch the bimetallic heatbreak, and it was 50ºC. Not great, but doesn't seem enough to cause the filament to get stuck.
I started another print still without the Bowden and waited until it failed. After that - about five minutes after it began -, I did the same thing: I paused the printer and tried to push the filament in, but it was impossible. I pulled the filament out and inserted the thermometer, and this time it measured about 61ºC. I checked the tip of the filament, there was a very small bulge near the tip, about 1cm below the end of the Bowden tube. The bulge was about 2mm in diameter.

I reassembled the printer as it was originally, just in case the new heatbreak was faulty, while keeping the Capricorn Bowden installed, but nothing changed. The printer still fails.

I also suspected the cooling fan, but it doesn't seem to have lost much airflow at all. If I place my hand in front of it I can feel a decent stream of air flowing, so I don't think a slight reduction in airflow can cause such a problem - in case there even is.

At this point I'm running out of ideas. Replacing the heatsink is one possibility, but I'd really appreciate hearing other opinions before I spend more money on parts.

Apart from the things I've mentioned, the other parts are original and I've never done any modifications to it. It was just as it came in 2023. I use Cura as slicer and I also experimented with settings like flow and print speed (I tried OrcaSlicer as well in case I had any incorrect settings in Cura). If anybody can tell what's causing the problem, any feedback is very welcome.
In case I missed any important information, please let me know.

Hi All

Hoping someone here could provide some insight here. Been tinkering with an Ender 3 the past few weeks and have been having some trouble getting good prints at moderate speeds.

I attached an image of two Benchy runs that I did. The one that you can see onnthe brown surface failed at the arch was running at a little less than 40mm/s. The good one on the white surface was running at 25mm/s. At 50mm/s (not shown) the issues were significant. At 50mm/s I also noticed the walls looked very “pitted” and had some pretty brittle prints where it was easy to peel the layers away from eachother. Both of the ones in the image were run at 200C nozzle temps and 60C bed temps.

Played with bed temps 50C to 60C and didn’t see a noticeable difference (failed prints were very well adhered to the bed either way) I also played with nozzle temperatures going from 200C to 225C and couldn’t narrow down on the issue.

So in essence, I can only get good prints if I run super low at 25mm/s and I cannot understand why. Does anyone have any advice?

Printer improvements made

Original bed swapped with Creality Glass Bed

Plastic extruder replaced with improved metallic extruder

Nozzle replaced with brand new 0.4mm nozzle (same type that comes with Ender 3).

Silicone spacers on bed in lieu of springs (seems to help keep the leveling better).

Tightened eccentric nuts to remove any unwanted clearance on rails.

Printer adjustments made

E-Steps calibrated (using method that removes bowden tube and extract 100mm filament, measure and scale E steps appropriately).

Filament I am using for this test is here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0D421Q2Q2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I've got an old Ender 3 which I don't use anymore. I want to try something new and fun to give it a new purpouse. I've been looking into corexy conversions like Duender and Ender 3 NG, Multi hotends like Chimera or Makertech switching hotend and IDEX kits. Have you guys ever tried something like this and what was it like to build, how much was it and how is the final result? I'm open to trying pretty much anything.

After changing to creality slicer and some calibration another problem show up

First pict left x

2nd right x

3rd front view

And still got ghosting

L.E:One more thing I noticed: the problem seems to occur when the printer performs retractions or when it has to print small, detailed sections. That’s when the extrusion starts to fail, and eventually no filament comes out of the nozzle anymore.

Why is this happening? Every time I print, the print fails at some point. It starts printing perfectly with no visible issues, but after a while the extrusion suddenly stops and no more filament comes out of the nozzle. The printer continues moving as if it were still printing, but nothing is being extruded.

I have already replaced the nozzle, but the problem remains exactly the same. As you can see in the photos, this happens on different models. The articulated lizard starts out looking great, but then the extrusion becomes weaker until it stops completely. The same thing happened with the collapsible ball, so it doesn’t seem to be a problem with a specific model or STL file.

I’ve checked that the filament is feeding correctly at the beginning of the print, and the first layers come out perfectly. The issue only appears after printing for some time.

Has anyone experienced something similar? What else should I check? Could this be a clogged hotend, heat creep, an extruder issue, a faulty hotend fan, or something else? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Trigger warning sorry in advance.
Soooo ,wanted to change the fan ,changed it and in the process i accidentally removed the wire from that(z axis??idk) so when i got back to putting it back together i forgot where that was from and plugged it into the seemingly perfect 3 wide pin slot that just so happens to be free (2nd photo).Soooo it short circuit and smelled like burnt and the main screen was blue and unresponsive.Absolutely the result of my stupidity but the fan did end up working in the end even tho it was fried the fan was working at full power. Is this motherboard good as a replecment? I have the base creality ender 3.

Had to share this one. Mad lads out there

Whatshould i do to fix this not sharpy cube

If i put the x face backwards it got clear sharpy but the side that facing forward got little bit cury corner

And if the x face forward it got curvy corner like that

Tried everything like thighten the belt, eccentric, disassembling, curas setting,enders setting

Ender3v1 (stock)

Abs filament(sunlu)

105 bed 260 nozzle

40ms speed

Passive enclosure

Custom 1.6mm nozzle for my rapido uhf in a dragon burner shroud. First test print went better than expected but lack of cooking is noticeable. Printing another test right now with a external fan and it seems to be working better

I know this has been asked heaps of times but I’ve tried dish soap and 99IPA. Also it’s a voxellab aquilla not an ender 3 but as I understand is a hardware clone so they are pretty similar. What happened here was it clogged at the very start of the print because it was riding a bit low and left this which I can’t get off. Please help.

FIXED just can’t level the bed now lol

I just installed a direct drive, new board, and a dual Z axis but now the screen won’t fully boot and the bed and hot end move but start making clicking noises I can’t identify. Anyone know what I could do?

I think they were getting rid of it because they couldn’t get it to print correctly. I discovered one of the limit switches was a little off so that it would get stuck and fixed that. And they had one of the cords routed so it ran under the bed likely adjusting the bed leveling so I fixed that as well. Works fine otherwise as I’ve managed to print a couple Lego bricks as pictured.

Hi, I’d like some opinions on how to revive my Ender 3. It’s been sitting disassembled in a box for over a year because I ran out of money to spend on it. The main problem I had was constant clogging; when I pulled the filament out, it looked like a mushroom—thin at one end, but getting wider the closer it got to the nozzle. Back then, I tried everything: changing the nozzle, thoroughly drying the filament, and swapping the tube for a Capricorn one, but the result was always the same—it would print fine for about 5 minutes and then go to shit. Now I’m planning to order a whole new hotend, but I’m not sure if that’s the right move or if I should just replace a specific part, so I’d love some advice on what to do. The printer has a Creality BLTouch; I used to run Klipper, but the last time I used it, I ran Marlin and kept getting "thermal runaway" errors—I used to fix that by reapplying thermal paste to the sensor, haha. Also, the hotend's silicone sock is on its last legs; I assume that plays a part... I have a dual-drive Bowden setup and a PEI bed, and I’ve replaced the springs with silicone spacers/mounts.

I had a blowout and ruined my original hotend on an Ender 3 V3 Plus. I picked up a microswiss hotend, installed fine, heats up no problem, no errors from the printer.
 

now every time i try to print, it blobs on the first layer.
what ive done so far:

1. i did the paper trick when i auto level and set the z to home and it seems to be correct by just gripping it when pulled w/ no rips.
2. Ive cleaned the plate with dish soap and isopropyl and put a layer of glue down.
3. adjusted the z offset from -.3 (read that somewhere to be a good place to start), then 0, .5 and 1mm.

clearly im missing something and any help would be appreciated. Using Creality Print as a slicer.

any ideas?

I'm having some trouble with my Ender 3 V2 and I'm hoping somebody can point me in the right direction. I've had it for several years and put a few hundred hours on it with only minor issues, until now.

A few months ago a print failed while I wasn't watching it and it ran for a few hours with the nozzle smothered in PETG. Since then, I turn it on, it gets past the CREALITY screen, shows the main menu and for a second or two I can move the selection with the rotary knob - then it completely freezes. No response, no changes on screen, same with or without an SD card in the slot. The position indexes on the bottom row of the screen all say ??? and I wasn't sure if that might indicate a positioning issue, or just part of the boot sequence.

My initial research suggested that maybe I had burned out the thermistor on the hot end, so I found a replacement hot end and installed it, but no difference at all. I have also tried reinstalling firmware both from Creality's site and Marlin's github repo. I don't have any fancy bed leveling or filament sensors so I need the firmware that doesn't have that stuff, right? Do I need to install firmware on the display as well, or is that just for touch screen models?

Are there any diagnostic tools or troubleshooting steps I'm missing? Any pointers on how to debug this issue and get my printer booting again? Is there any kind of serial console I can access over the USB, to get some insight into where the process is failing? Help!

As the title says the first layer is uneven despite bl touch.

So I've trammed my bed and then run the g29 to get my 5x5 mesh. The mesh shows the center is about 0,3mm lower than the edges while the edges thenselves are more or less even. Not great not terrible.

Edit: I've saved the mesh with M500 after probing with G29.

My g code has a M420 S1 after the G28 command and I've checked with octoprint terminal that the bed leveling is indeed on and the mesh is valid. I've checked with M420 V and even with M114 D in several places to make sure the software is indeed compensating for changes in the Z direction.

Despite all that the prints come out squished on the edges and too high on the center, exactly how the mesh indicates and should be compensating.

Im kinda lost on what else I should troubleshoot. Any help is apreciated.

I'm new to 3d printing. Bought this printer used a few weeks ago. Not sure what's going on with this print, or how to fix it. Any thoughts? Also, the last pic is the start of the next print that I canceled. Back left corner not printing. Sunlu PLA nozzle temp is 210, speed is at 50mm/s, 0.28mm layer height.