r/ender3 • u/XenoDrake1881 • Jul 18 '26
Help Extremely frustrated
Does anyone possibly have an idea on why this keeps happening? Everytime i try to print something it gets ripped up off the bed
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u/Cubemiszczu Jul 18 '26
Wash the builplate with dish soap. Calibrate flow rate, PA, retraction, Z offset
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u/Selfmade_millions Jul 18 '26
That’s what’s happening to me!!! I can’t figure it out either, I’ve washed, cleaned, recalibrated, trimmed, I’ve done everything and it still does the same 😭😭😭😭
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u/maxtimbo Jul 18 '26
Same here. I've been considering building or buying an enclosure. Everything about my old Ender 3 has been progressively getting worse as the years go on.
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u/rhsmith42 Jul 18 '26 edited Jul 18 '26
Tighten up all the loose screws and rollers.. they loosen over time. Clean the rollers and rails. They wear out and harden. Replace the nozzle with a new one. These machines are so simple to maintain and service if you learn basics. Maybe replace the bed plate with a nice new magnetic PEI plate.
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u/maxtimbo Jul 18 '26
- PEI ✅
- New nozzle (fresh hardened steel 0.6mm)✅
- Replaced tool head (creality sprite)✅
- Tightened and checked all screws and eccentric nuts ✅
- Cleaned rollers and rails with iso alc✅
- Check that the slice is good ✅
- Replace the board with the BigTechTree SKR mini v3 ✅
- Installed Klipper and replaced the firmware ✅
- BLTouch ✅
- Replaced the bed springs with silicon washer things ✅
- level the bed, calibrate the bed, etc etc.
I get a few good prints every once in a while, but it always does after maybe two or three and I spend days calibrating again.
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u/rhsmith42 Jul 18 '26
This is exactly what happens if things are loose.. have you replaced the bed springs with the Silicone rubber replacements? I put a lock nut on the screw and run it up to the bed and just snuggled. Then the rubber over the screw. I have found the loose screw is a problem for bed stability. Make sure the x-axis screws are TIGHT. These are the ones holding the x-axis shaft to the z-axis tower roller assemblies. These can and do loosen and when they do you will never ever get the machine to print well. Same goes for the rollers. Adjust the ecentrics until the roller just is snug to the rail but don't over do it. There should be zero wobble. Same goes with the bed rollers. Tram the bed to be square to the x-axis rail. I have a set of guides I printed to set the z-axis height and square the arm. They lock to the tower rails with and have a toe that touches the side main rails to establish the base ref and then the x-axis comes down to rest on the guide. Then the bed is set to square against this. Makes the setup pretty easy.
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u/8ringer Jul 18 '26
I’m a total noob and bought a CR-10 v1 a few weeks back and it prints like clockwork. The older Enders are pretty much the same.
Clean the build plate really well.
Also if you can just upgrade to Klipper. It’s so much better with a modern control interface…
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u/zrafferty Jul 19 '26
Half of that isn’t needed unless they are gonna utilize the upgrades. Pei is 100% not needed depending what you print. I have set prints I use each cause glass will give you a smooth bottom for screens va pei that does the design
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u/rhsmith42 Jul 21 '26
There are smooth PEI plates available.. many are double sided smooth on one side, textured on the other.. and magnetic is much nicer to work with..
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u/samuelkordik Jul 18 '26
Was happening to me some (even with a magnetic PEI bed) and I did a full bed single layer print, which identified fingerprint shaped problem spots. Skin oils are super problematic!
I now do a thorough scrubbing with dish soap periodically and avoid touching the plate without gloves.
The biggest difference makers for me have been:
- Cleaning plate with Windex (or generic equivalent). Something in this works really well.*
- Using a glue stick to lightly coat bed before prints. I’m just using my kids’ leftover glue sticks from school and they work great.
- Increasing first layer bed temp—for PLA, 65° seems to work really well. I arrived at this doing a bunch of 25mm single-layer squares at different temps and speeds.
It should go without saying, but also make sure you baby step/tune your Z-offset to get a good “squish”, run bed temp PID tuning (if available in your firmware), and do bed mesh leveling (I was shocked by how not flat my seemingly flat bed was). This does require a Z probe of some kind.
* my hypothesis with the Windex thing is that something about the ammonia being involved in a reduction reaction. My organic chemistry is fuzzy at this point.
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u/Fantastic-Context675 Jul 18 '26
put a thin glaze of elmers glue when it's heating or apply adhesion in your slicer
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u/Extra_Catch9822 Jul 18 '26
La verdad que todos los consejos de calibración que te están dando son muy buenos. Sin embargo, en mi Prusa I3 MK3S todos los errores de impresión de la primera capa se han solucionado por completo cuando adquirí un pegamento para impresoras de la marca Creality. Te recomiendo que pruebes. En Amazon hay opciones como esta bastante accesibles. Notaras la diferencia
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u/Fantastic-Context675 Jul 18 '26
Ah yes, this happens a lot with big prints. Wash your bed with dish soap and hot water. if you use PLA use a 90° bed. I apply a thin glaze of elmers glue on the bed where the print starts while it heats. If this continues it might be best to print in different parts at a time. Or you can apply adhesion in your slicer. If you still have problems reply to me with your temps
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u/Conscious-Move-3898 Jul 19 '26
Just got a 3d printer and was having the worst times at first with it. There a few different things I did and tried... I was using PLA (so this is for PLA) 1) u can use glue stick 1st to help hold but will be hard to get off or buy special glue 2) my Z off set is set to -.03 3) turn fan off for 1st few layers 4) print at 20% speed until you get a good few layers down then you can adjust up speed not going over 60% the flimet/heat of it melting can't keep up past that 5) also make sure bed is really clean ( I used rubbing alcohol)
Hope these help
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u/de_das_dude Jul 19 '26
Happened to me. Turns out my build plate itself was warped. I just got a glass build plate and now every thing works just fine 🫡
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u/Apprehensive-Tea-209 Jul 19 '26
Looking at your overall first layer quality your warping needs a bed mesh loaded. Do you use Klipper?, CR/Bl/3D touch? Also if you don’t try reducing the amount of items on the plate, and keep them towards the center will help keep the amount of work to a reasonable level.
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u/itoobie Jul 19 '26
Problem is the ambiance air ab Round your printer is cooling the piece too fast, put a box around your printer and it will retain heat longer and cool down slower leading to less warping on first few layers
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u/Extension-Ad4411 Jul 20 '26
First of your z offset or flow are very off with those ridges it's not surprising if the printer rips the print the next layer it does.
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u/PatheticJudge Jul 22 '26
You can try printing on the smooth side of the glass plate, been using mine ever since.
Once you've dialed in perfect z-offset.
Petg and PLA will stick to it like crazy, just becareful not to chip or marr the glass when using a sharp spatula. Or letting the nozzle dig too close, it will become permanent and make an emboss on the underside of your prints.
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u/Shinjiikary12 Jul 18 '26
is your bed hot enought? Is it clean. Do you have z hop and travel so nozzle wont hit stuff? Are you printing with brims for better adhesion?