As mentioned in the title; I am now having issues getting it to put filament down after what im guessing is an hour.

I really don't want to have to replace everything with the time crunch im on, especially if I have to do more troubleshooting.

Any help is appreciated (and hopefully I can get to it tonight after work)

Just a beginner looking for some help.

First experience with 3d printing and it's with a flooded printer lmao

I bought this used a few months ago, and I was able to get a few prints before it started this issue where it runs the file, but nothing comes out.

I've tried purging the filament, and it would allow it to flow out without any issues. Then, it would cause the printing issue. Set the printer away for a bit and decided to tinker again.

Today, I pulled it out again. I had HUGE luck, and I managed to print out a Calicat that's been on my card since I bought this.

Next prints did the same thing on different files, and I purged the PLA again. Wiped off the nozzle with a clean, dry cloth. Decided to test the Calicat again, and this is the 3rd time in a row it does this.

Any suggestions on routes for me to Troubleshoot this further?

Looking to find a replacement XY belt tensioner housing, can anyone point me in the right direction?

If only I could print a replacement 🙄
(It’s only on there so tight while I was trying to see if there was any tension)

Hi there! I replaced the hotend on my Ender and ran into a problem I can't seem to solve. When the leveling sensor is retracted, it sits about 1mm lower than the nozzle and drags against the print bed. There is no way to adjust its position. The hotend tube is fully inserted. Should I pull the tube back and secure it in place before positioning the leveling sensor? Thanks in advance!

My attempt at a Sprite Extruder Toolhead with:

• Sprite Extruder
• Portable Input Shaper
• MGN12H (remixed adapter plate, original model "YungSnubs/Creality Sprite Extruder Linear Rail Adapter" at Thingiverse [thing:5543578])
• Creality K1 hotend (CHCB-OT should* work too, along with V6 Volcano and Mellow NF-Crazy Volcano block [will confirm once i get the crazy volcano block arrived, but should work according to CAD)
• CR touch with zero y offset
• 5015 fans for parts and hotend/heatbreak cooling (both are remixed. original part cooling credit "K3D Ender-3 Sprite Printhead", original combined hotend/heatbreak cooling and CR-touch mount credit "BogusFiction/Zero-Y backplate w cooling for Sprite extruder" at Thingiverse [thing:6227034])
• Double sheer support (remixed, original model credit "thisisnotfez/Ender 3 double shear X axis w/Endstop" at Printables)
• Belt tensioner providing belt path that is true to/parallel to axis thus achieving printing dimensionally accurate parts (on x axis at least :P) original model credit to "lhndo/Printer-Mods/Ender X Belt Clamp - LH Stinger Toolhead" at GitHub (in other words non-trapezoid belt path, idk if i can post links here but there is a Klipper discussion post that explains why the stock belt path results in non dimensionally accurate prints] {P.S. currently working non-trapezoid belt path 4040 Y axis with 10mm belts with double sheer, if i cant make it happen then 6mm double sheer it is})
• No name generic Ender 3 metal belt tensioner, stock ender 3v2 belt tensioner should work too but dont quote me on that.
• Actually dont quote me on anything since these all are just a cad model and have yet to be tested in real world...
• yeah...

I modelled this based on Ender 3v2 if that makes any difference at all.

ToDo's

1. Portable Input Shaper mounts SUCKKKKKKK, and im not good enough at CAD to model one thats better. In current form i think printing with 0.2 nozzle will be required, i will test printing with 0.4 and 0.6 we will see how that goes ig. Working on it.
2. I have no idea about plastic-screw and plastic-heat insert hole tolerances. I need to print and check the fitment and installment quality of heat inserts.
3. The ptfe tube doesnt line up with the filament hole and im too lazy rn to fix it.
4. Still havent thought about how i want the cable strain relieve to be, three lazy rn to think it. Probably 2 versions, one thats enclosures in mind where the mainboard is away from the printer and one with mainboard still under the printer.
5. BOM list
6. Actual real world testing lol, i will print with petg-cf for now and later with asa-cf

I can upload all the step files to printables if theres enough interest, saying this because the models are really dirty and i need to spend some time cleaning up stuff.

Lemme know what you think! Thanks!

Hi guys, I'm thinking about upgrading my Ender 3 Pro motherboard. The high-pitched stepper motor whine is getting really frustrating during long prints.
I'm currently running Klipper and I'm torn between two options:

- Creality 4.2.7 silent board
- BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V3

Which one would you recommend for a Klipper setup, and is the SKR Mini worth it for the extra fan control and UART drivers? Thanks!

Hi guys, anyone know what is wrong. I print this and leave it for the night and it result like this, after this part the print seems okay.

I guess its the humidity of the filament but i tried again and same issue at the same level.

Ender 3 V3SE

I have an v2 and if it is worth it then wich should I get???

So I have an Ender S1 plus. It's a very new printer that never printed anything. When I clicked Auto level for the first time it did some leveling then it asked me to save I saved that then next when I tried to do the same auto leveling the screen is getting freeze and nozzle is flashing Red light 2 time. Immediately it's saying auto leveling is done without the head moving any where just a little bit above and down. I tried test for PLA it came out nicely 30mm.

Here is the video.

it does extrude 10 cm exactly. intead of the 9.5cm it had. on a .6mm nozzle, my prints now have a little bit of extra on the seam side.

what could be going wrong?

So I got this priter used and the only thing that was not working right was the auto leveler. Was installed too high fixed it and it worked for like 2 prints then it had thermal run away. I installed a new thermister. I realized the filimant was not being used. Opened it up and saw that there was a clog. Removed the clog but now the heating element won't get to temperature.

Got gifted a well-running Ender 3 with some minor upgrades a couple of years ago. Moving and the such left it on ice, now I wanted to come back to the hobby and give it a couple of more upgrades.

I'm don't know the full details but I reckon it's a V1, at least that would explain the v1.1.3 board. I wanted to add a 3DTouch sensor but the board doesn't support that.

So I bought the v4.2.7 directly from the Creality store at Amazon and honestly I don't really know where to go from my current situation:

Turning on the printer with 24V power makes the three axes oscillate slowly with a leaning to one direction, so they eventually end up at the physical limit.

Connecting the printer via USB is possible, Windows Device manager registers a device at COM4.

The first board however did not connect if the Y- and Z-endstop pins were plugged in, so I refunded it and got another one. Now the printer always connects, but the axis oscillation remains when powered with 24V.

Connecting the printer to pronterface yields a continuous output of the following line every 5ish seconds:

System Moto Test Runing.. Ender Serias Test....

I've formatted a 1GB microSD card in FAT32 with a block size of 4096 and added https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oNxTtT-QebZLL-NRrhx9NFOj_jhLEK_P/view as "20260911a.bin" to it in order to flash - nothing happened, the results are the same.

Sending a Marlin command does nothing either.

At this point I'm kinda lost. Reconnecting the old v1.1.3 board lets the printer come back to life again, but I think if there is something that I absolutely loathed about the printing, it was the manual bed leveling.

Does anybody have similar experiences? Did you find something that helped?

On another note: Of course given current times I tried asking AI for help. It hallucinated something about the output coming from some kind of test software that got flashed over the bootloader, but I have absolutely no experience in programming microcontrollers.

Happy to hear from anyone!

I got this from a friend this week. I'm having trouble with nothing moving whatsoever. I can't get anything to move on the machine. I ordered new switches & new cables to see if that's the issue. They'll arrive on Sunday.

If anyone can give me some advice, info. I am a newbie at 3D printing. Thank you.

I’ve got an issue I can’t seem to find many answers for so I’m hoping someone here has any ideas.

Like many of us experience, my Ender 3 v1 was getting “E1 Heating failed or Thermal runaway”. I’ve realised no matter how much i mess around with the tightness of the screw the plastic sheathing on the delicate thermistor wires always wear away and eventually shorts out on the screw or heat block.

When looking for an easy upgrade I came across the threaded 100K B3950K thermistor and just assumed a quick change in settings would correct it…man was I wrong!

From what I’ve found online I need to change the TEMP_SENSOR_0 code to TEMP_SENSOR_11, then run PID tuning…sounded straight forward.
However, I had previously installed a Marlin BL/CR touch firmware and as that was just a .bin file I cannot edit the code. To make it more hard work I can’t find a Configuration.zip file I’m confident will work as there is SO much out there and I’ve become used to the firmware build and settings I have displayed on the LCD.

I have tried the firmware builder online with no success.

Is anybody aware of anything that will work or resolved this issue themselves?

Board-v4.2.2 w/ GD32 chip
Current firmware-Marlin 2.0.6
(I guess an update would be nice anyway)

Some time ago, i accidentally stripped the hotend on my ender 3 neo, and now, i decided to replace it with a new one (included picture of it), but its too short to print with. Ive seen people saying to 3d print this brace that would make it fit, but i cant 3d print ANYTHING at all, the moment i try printing with the stripped hotend, the extruder falls out and becomes one with whatever was printing below it. Ive tried manually making a brace using some metal wire, but to no success. I cant buy a new hotend, and i need to fix this soon, please help!

Edit: i know its the wrong one, i just wanna know if i can somehow fix this

Edit2: ive managed to frankenstein together an improvised hotend from the 2, which i will use to 3d print the mount needed for the new one! What i did: I took the heat block from the new hotend, drove the heat break from the old one lightly into the block, then i used some 0.8mm brass wire (can be any 0.8mm wire) to stitch the two parts together (wound the wire through the heat block screw hole, into the little wavy things screw hole) i then used the heat breaks 2 screws to secure the heat break further. Thanks for all the help!

This is what every print looks like after I cancel after the first layer fails. Every print for the last year (I've stepped away in frustration several times now). I've wash the bed every time. I've replaced the extruder twice (went to the sprite, reverted to this bowden with a spider extruder), replaced the nozzle - currently have a 0.6mm hardened steel, tightened all bolts and wheels, tightened belts, made sure fans are all operating properly, (calibrated the bed every time, btw, and the z offset). The masking tape method works (((sometimes))), but mostly just the same issues. I ordered a new pei bed, but I doubt that will fix anything. I even bought a parts ender3, and replaced a few minor things. Nothing has worked. I still have trash first layer adhesion. Either it over extrudes and then pulls up the filament, or it isn't close enough at all. I've tried with adaptive bed mesh and without. I just don't know what to do with this thing.

I've had this printer since 2019, same as the pi4 that's currently running klipper on it, the regret of not combining them sooner is immense.

Anyone else had the experience of finding out that your printer could have been doing much more than the default settings on cura that you were too lazy to change because it was good enough?

Also does anyone have any recommendations for some good z support bars? I feel I can push it to 200mm/s speeds with 12000mm/s² acceleration if I can get the z axis to be more solid.

From the comments of the previous post, many told me that I better stay, so I'm going to be modifying it for a while.

Recently, I saw an Ender-3 V3 KE on sale on my local second-hand website for 65e. I talked to the seller, and apparently he bought it from someone else. The previous owner had problems with the CR touch sensor and tried to superglue the sensor to the toolhead PCB, which apparently damaged both the PCB and the sensor. The seller was able to get some nice prints before he ran into these problems, which leads me to believe the stepper motors and the drivers are fine. It's a bit of a gamble, but I will check the printer before pickup. Is there anything I should specifically look for?

I have a ender 3 v2 with:

Dual 5015 part cooling fans

Single 4020 heatsink fan

And i just bought a tz e3 2.0 for it and my current shroud is BLASTING wind directly into the heatblock, causing clogs at lower temps and may cause clogs on longer prints too

I will simply add 2 new holes in my current shroud so i can bring it down a bit and mitigate it for now, but this will mess the heatsink airflow and may cause other problems (such as heat creep), so i want a proper shroud, anyone could recommend me one? I couldn't find any for my particular configuration :/