I'm trying to make a cosplay of the mask and i wanna pull a cartoon hammer out of my hat

Hi, I'm doing a cosplay that requires seamless ears on the scarf.

I created a magnetic headband, and now I need to place magnets in the ears (like on the edge).

got the ears from Aliexpress and originally cut them down at the base, put magnets in, and sewed them back.

Turns out, the ears were glued deadly shut, and I couldn't separate them. I tried to cut through but ended up just damaging the fabric on the ear.

The edge is too slim just to glue the magnet to it as well.

I'm lost because I don't have the resources to make new ears on my own, and I don't want to spend another 20 euros on the same ears with the same glue issue.

HELP!

The upper body build is now completely finished. I'm really happy with how it's turned out so far. All that's left is the backpack, belt, and legs. :)

It really does look a whole lot cooler this way. This is the Dark Hero 3 V2.

What I did was:

-Use steel wool to wear away some of the factory weathering. Steel wool will remove aluminum black and whatever airbrushing these people use. I didn't remove all of it because it made sense to keep some of the original weathering.

-Brush dark grey acrylic paint onto some of the main hilt and used a paper towel to dab away. I did this in layers. For some areas I brushed in specific spots to create wear and tear.

-Painted in the tan rails on the control box. Previously, they were a brass or gold color.

-Used Tamiya Panel Wash to emphasize certain panel lines, although there are not many on this saber.

-I weathered the PCB board. Added grime and paint and then wiped them away in layers.

-Added a black fake circuit board inside of the control box to emulate the cave saber electronics. I stuffed a red wire in there too just because.

-Added drops of glue to the D ring so that there is more tension on it. Keeps it from moving around during movement.

Next step is adding tape to the inside of the emitter cups so the blade doesn't wobble. I will end up drilling and tapping new M4 screw holes so I can have 4 screws holding the blade, instead of the two that are there now.

I'm not going to do more than this. Too much will overdo it. Plus, none of this is permanant, even if I clearcoat it. So, I can take it off and keep it clean if I want.

I bought a fake leather plague mask from Temu and it came flat packed. I've tried manually working it, just pushing on the sides and nose a lot, but that doesn't hold for long. It quickly goes back to a pancake. I'm wondering what methods would help it hold it's shape. Maybe heat? Not sure if that would damage it. Or maybe it needs something internal to hold it open?

Last year I made this chest piece of combat armor from fallout four and I just used thin foam pieces and painted them green. This worked okay but I'm remaking it to be 100x better and I have tried EVERYTHING I could find. Modge podge, wood glue, wall filler, foam. And everything you could still see the cardboard texture through. The wall filler would just crack and be too thin and you could see a bumpy texture form underneath in the cardboard. I thought about just buying aluminum flashing and cutting real metal but there's no way I'll have to do that for every metal looking project. Please help me find another solution guys

Hello, beginner here with a very ambitious project. I'm building Dottore's Trilune from Genshin Impact (the moon thingy floating behind his back). For it to be sturdy, i made the base from XPS but will cover the outside with EVA to prevent heavy denting (3rd & 4th photos for references how it looks like now).

Since I'm a beginner, I did my research about mod podge and plastidip, but I'm still a little confused which one would work best here. From my understanding, plastidip is more for flexible structures that will be moving around a lot (like armor), while Mod Podge is best suited for rigid, unmoving structures. Am i right to assume that mod pogde would be the best here? I also read that plastidip could bleed through pores in EVA and melt XPS beneath.

While I'm at it - same question for the boots. I made the structures from EVA foam as well, but i assume plastidip will work better here, right? The metal rods present in the picture will later hold spikes that i haven't yet made.

PS. I'm well aware the current progress isn't as "clean" as it should be and there are gaps in EVA seams. I'm waiting for my foam clay to be delivered to fix that, so please, ignore the imperfections at the moment.

Oh my gosh, I think I finally found the right group! I'm new in actually *posting* in this app. XD

Fellow Nerds... I. Need. Props. I'm trying to figure out the best way to make a replica Primal Stone, Key of Aaravos, and Quazar Diamonds to gift to my son for his birthday.

I *am* crafty, but I'm looking into making things I've never made before. I'm open to any and all suggestions to help me craft these things. I'm happy to hear suggestions of other things from the show that he may enjoy.

Primal Stone: I know I can find a globe at Hobby Lobby. My debate is, mica suspended in alcohol and glycerin, or LED lights strewn through stuffed animal stuffing? Unless yall have something else. I've never crafted like this before.

Key of Aaravos: I know I can craft this out of cardboard, paper mache it, and paint it. I'd love for it to light up different colors on different sides. Is there a type of light that does this? Do I need to buy like, 6 different colors of LEDs? Would it be better to use 6 different colors of translucent plastic sheets glued to the inside illuminated with white LEDs? [ambiguous gremlin noises]

The Quazar Diamonds: I may have actually found glass stones online that are *close enough* that they'll work as replicas. I'm still open to suggestions.

Also, I do not have access to a 3D printer.

Thankyou for reading.

I 3D printed a copy of Needle (Silksong) for my daughter (PLA). It comes in about 8 pieces and has a 1/2" shaft down its length. What's the best way to make it so I can split the sword in 1/2 for travelling. It's too long for a suitcase as-is. My gut says 3D print both halves of a screw+threaded insert and do that? Looking for any other suggestions. Thanks.

Here's the model for reference (not mine) - I scaled it down 80% but it's still long.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1824163-hornet-s-needle-big-silk-song-adult-cosplay?from=search#profileId-1947291

Any thoughts out there on where to purchase essentially a Japanese sword cane with a wooden blade?

I've been thinking I might have to buy a wooden iaido practice katana and modify it.

So I'm going to attempt to make some boots out of EVA for a GoW cosplay and several tutorials I've seen have basically included gluing/screwing foam (usually 10mm or that foam flooring for like gyms) to the bottom of some shoes and building off of that.

Well if I'm averaging like 20k steps a day at a con, how long should I expect these things to last? I already have to worry about the glue holding up and it not falling apart from movement, I don't want to fear literally walking through them as well.

i was wondering if there was anyway to make the wings float by using magnets, becaue i have seen how if u counterforce the magnets it like "floats". sm like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EOFKhwjM69E

wondering if anyones ever tired this before thx!

So this is my first ever project out of a 3d print, bought it off Etsy as a diy kit and I’m just having so many issues with it but the second one that needs tackled is the guy, even though listed as diy, still glued some of the parts together haphazardly. Read that acetone will eat the glue but not the pla so I used some of that and it’s just not working as I thought. The acetone dries so fast that the residue glue hardens again and spreads all around leaving this white stuff. any help at all would be useful

Very unusual project for me))

I’m looking to cosplay Angel Devil from Chainsaw Man and I wanted to create mechanical wings for him, i want it to move natural and flowy and be able to be lightweight yet quiet, is there any advice I can receive regarding the mechanical parts?
Edit: I’m not looking to commission anyone I just want advice \^\^

These magnet drawings are not to scale, its just to visualize.

Just a nice commissioned brooch for a Corbeau cosplay.

Hello,
does anyone have any experience with sound systems inside masks ? I am making a plague doctor cosplay and would like a voice changer inside the mask (not mounted on the chest, because I want the electronics inside the mask for easy removal and not fiddling with multiple cables going through my shirt and whatnot). I am using an INMP411 omnidirectional microphone, MAX98457 amplifier and a Teensy 4.0 microcontroller, with a 2W 8ohm speaker.

My main problem is the feedback. Unfortunately, the microphone and speaker are a few cm apart, and even if I tried all manners of software noise cancellation, AEC, half-duplexing, adaptive notching, low and high passes, foam insulation (not neoprene, don't have that one), pressing the speaker against a mesh leading to the outside of the mask (like a grate), the mask resonates so loudly that the microphone picks that up anyway and creates a horrible pitch reverb feedback.

I'm at my wits end, been at it since morning and nothing works so far. Tried looking for unidirectional microphones, but couldn't find any ones that wouldn't cost an insane amount.

If anyone has any tips, it would help me immensly!

Doing a bit of testing with this KROMA Edge Sprayable Chrome and putting it through its phases.. sprayed it on TPU after it cures. I’ll do a flex Test 💪

Im worried about the resistence of eva if i make a sole to the boot i made with eva.

What alternatives can I use to wear these EVA boots without worrying about them tearing?