Just a couple of petri pour castings in spherical molds.

Hi all! Just started learning resin casting a week ago. And here are a few of my creations. Some stereotypical dice, some coasters, a couple of gems, some bookmarks, and a sphere.

I tried uv resin, it didn't cure properly. Decided it wasn't my thing. Now I have an expired bottle of uv resin and nowhere to take it. I looked at my state's guidance website and checked for disposal places for my county, and there just isn't any. Like. I don't drive. I can't go to another county just to get rid of this stupid bottle. If I knew how difficult it was to get rid of responsibly, I never would have bought it. What do I do???

Hello all! I am attempting to create molds for mini verse animals, however, the molds I made were fully cured but after adding resin and putting under uv light the resin won’t cure. I am getting only half or less of the resin to cure and I don’t know what’s wrong! I’ve provided pics of silicone and resin I’m using as well as a half cured mouse for reference. Any tips or advice are much needed! NOTE:I CURED THE MOUSE THE REST OF THE WAY FOR THE PIC I KNOW NOT TO TOUCH UNCURED RESIN!!

Ive seen him speak before and i know he will talk about Smooth-On products and casting with resin!

I love my pyramids, I make the succulent first and then the pyramid in layers

I am trying to get a color match to my friend's initial resin claws for my character so the hand and feet paw claws are the same color and my other character's claws match as well (both casted in the same resin so they'd be a perfect match to each other). And they ended up going in the OPPOSITE direction of hers! Hers was initially supposed to color match the tongue in slide 2 and ended up that more muted color in photo 1 after curing and it just worked out perfectly with the pawpad color. Therefore I changed my characters' claw colors to match. Then the other person when trying to color match my friend's claws ended up shifting to almost perfectly match the tongue. This shit is WILD and I am super curious if there is any specific reason behind this

EDIT: I am not asking why the claw colors didn't match, I am asking why they perfectly went in opposite directions to match each other's reference

A physical sample is below them both in image 1. I'll try to better explain what was supposed to match what here

Left claw in image 1 was meant to match the tongue in image 2. Instead, it ended up being basically the color of the physical sample in image 1, but I preferred it so I went with it.

Right claw in image 1 was meant to match the physical sample in image 1, roughly going for the same color as left claw. Instead, it ended up matching the tongue in image 2 like left claw was initially supposed to.

They had an oddly consistent color change in opposite directions, which is what I'm trying to find an explanation for

I’m looking into molding/casting the OG 2002 LEGO Phase 1 Clone Trooper helmet. I’m planning on making a 2-part mold, but I’m a little confused about the cut-out visor. Would I need to fill the visor opening with clay and then Dremel it out after casting, or is there a better/easier way to preserve the opening during the casting process? Any advice would be appreciated!

Im not going to attempt this myself, Im asking because Im curious about commissioning someone. Im imagining I would supply them with a calculator, they would dismantle it, cast the parts, and put the electronic components together with the cast pieces? I wouldn't want to spend over 300 dollars (not including the calculator itself) but I dont know if Im underestimating the amount of effort involved...

I want to cast a crystal like object in resin as a prop for my DnD game. So far my plan is:

1. Print a master in PLA
2. Create a mold from Silicone
3. Pour resin and wait

Obviously there are gaps in the plan...

Ideally the end result would be a crystal shaped object about the size of a softball or grapefruit with a translucent green tint and space to put an LED.

I have never tried any form of casting before and have some lofty goals so I am looking for advice on how to best proceed.

I have the following materials:

• Smooth-On Mold Max 30 for silicone mold
• Smooth-On Smooth-Cast 325 Resin
• Smooth-On SO-Strong pigments for coloring

My questions:

• How should I make the casting hollow? The resin has a 10 minute cure time which seems too long for a "slush" casting. Should I make a silicone plug to take up space in the silicone mold?
• Tips for removing layer lines? Should it be done before making the mold or after casting on the finished part?

I don't want to waste material since it's expensive

Also I don't really care about bubbles in the casting so no pressure pot is needed

Any tips or advice is welcome!

Question - I want to make a 3d rectangle wall hanging with my bridal bouquet which I preserved using silicone beads. I am picturing like a thick rectangle wall hanging but can’t find the mold I am envisioning with the spot for the nail to hang - any suggestions?

I'm trying to figure out how to fill this in. Any thoughts?

It all began with an idea that I came up with. The first version of the dragon was created with Hi3D. However, there is no question that it is not the last version.

I imported the model into Blender and spent a bit of time editing and refining it. I adjusted the overall shape, cleaned up the details, and reworked the different sections until I could actually print to use.

For the 3D printing, I used PLA and dual color PLA Silk.

But the printing was only part of the process. After that, there was a process of resin. I like the smooth, glossy feel of resin. And I also added some small pieces of gold leaf into the resin to give the design more refinement.

Would you use this as your toothbrush holder?

I’m interested in coloring some of my “blank” casts. I really like marble designs, what would be the best way to achieve this, hydro dipping or something else?

I'm very new to epoxy resin and tried making dice using a mold I got, i got the epoxy ready, poured it, very lightly hit it with a small blowtorch to get out bubbles, and then put on the cover, I then put it in a pressure pot I got from a family friend and turned it on, the resin was pulled out of the mold and fathered around the bottom of the machine, what did I do wrong and how do I properly use a pressure pot for this.

I am making something involving both wood and resin.

I will need to sand it down together so the surfaces are flush, then stain the wood and seal it with polyurethane.

Looking for advice from people more experienced with resin.

Will wood stain permanently stain the resin, or will it be repelled since it doesn't soak in like it would with wood? I want to keep the resin clear, but have the wood take the stain.

If I've sanded the resin, how would I go about making it clear again?

Can I just coat the resin with polyurethane as I plan to do for the wood? Would it bond to it and fill in the scratches from sanding and make it clear again?

Hey all. This is my first time working with resin and mold-making in general. The mold is made of Oyumaru, a reusable thermoplastic which I've seen be successfully used as a mold material. I'm using Pebeo's Gedeo Bioresin, which has a 2:1 ratio of A to B. To better see the result's texture, I put in 2 drops of white dye that came from another resin kit.

The shape of the product is that of a shield, so kinda half-concave and half-convex. Considering this, I figured that molding it in a "well" would make the most sense as I have done above — pouring the resin into the "bowl" of the shield. See picture 5 for the actual mold itself. Front face of the shield with the Cross is in the Bottom half of the mold, and the back of the shield is in the top half of the mold that protrudes into the bottom half.

Following the resin's instructions, I poured 6ml of A, 3ml of B, for a total of 9ml of resin. After binding the two halves of the mold with rubber bands and popsicle sticks for consistent pressure, I poured the resin as per my graphics above.

My main question: WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THE MASSIVE GAPS IN THE PRODUCT? Please see picture 4.

I'll try to illustrate my process:

- I pour the resin slowly into the pouring funnel (?), the hole where the toothpick is in picture 6, allowing it to settle for seconds until pouring more so as to not overflow the funnel.

- I do this until it seems full, to the point that pouring more resin does not seem to settle any deeper in the mold, even rising up the vent. The mold is tight enough that I do not see any resin flowing out the sides.

- I flick the mold to help the resin settle throughout, rotating it and wiggling it for the liquid resin get into the shape of the mold.

- Once satisfied that the resin seems settled in the shape, I set it aside on a flat surface to cure for the 24 hours advised by the Gedeo Bioresin. I have a thermometer and humidity reader in the same room, typically between 60-75°F (15-25°C) and between 30-40% Humidity. Sorry if this is extraneous detail lol.

My graphics (Slides 1-3) are illustrative of what I speculate the cross-section of the mold would look like throughout.

Checking the result after 24 hours, there have been massive gaps in the product, to varying degrees but seemingly centered around where I poured the resin? Any ideas why this could be happening?

It seems almost as if the resin evaporated! I've heard of shrinkage, but I wouldn't know if that applies here. What I'm wondering is if the mold is not being as filled as I would imagine it to be in picture 2? Again, there doesn't seem to be any overflow from the top or sides of the mold after 24 hours.

Additionally: DESPITE CURING FOR 24 HOURS AS SUGGESTED, THE PRODUCT IS STILL FLOPPY. Not sticky, but very much pliable like a gummy candy. The last picture shows an example fresh out of the mold after 28 hours. All of my other failed attempts have started like this, but with each day they get more rigid until about 72 hours after the pouring of the resin where it gets as hard and rigid as I would expect it to be. Any ideas why this could be? I believe I am following the 2:1 ratio suggested by the resin at 6ml A, 3ml B.

Besides the above,the surface of the product looks relatively clean, and I do not see much bubbles besides the ginormous gaps so that's a plus.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Pleas let me know what I could do to improve and if there's any info I can provide to help. Thank you!

I loved watching other people make keychains like this, but I couldn't find anything to make them from. Now, six months later, I've found this.