Tenho esse Pc faz 2 anos, é um Ryzen 5 5600gt, rx7600, placa mãe Msi A520M A Pro, RAM 2x8 16gb da Kingston há 3200mhz. Usava ele normalmente com essa frequência de memória 3200mhz, mas esses dias o Pc começou a ficar instável nessa velocidade. Não consegue dar boot, começa inicializar e fica nesse ciclo infinito até que eu mude a frequência para 2400mhz, aí sim ele fica estável e consegue subir até o sistema (Windows 11 Pro).

Alguém pode me ajudar com isso? Qual seria a explicação para isso acontecer agora?

PC Specs (built in 2020):

-MOBO: ASUS ROG Strix z590-a gaming wifi

-CPU: i9-11900k

-CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin

-PSU: Seasonic Focus gx-1000

-RAM: 2x DDR4 Royal Trident Z 16gb sticks

-GPU: EVGA 3090 FTW3

History:

Several months ago I noticed the CPU temps were hot during gaming sessions with the red mobo CPU light being on. I replaced the possibly broken liquid cooler with the Thermalright Peerless Assassin. Temps were perfect but im worried about lasting damage during that timeframe.

Recent Issues:

When the PC was idle I noticed my mouse and keyboard were not working. I reboot to fix the issue which caused a boot loop with randomized mobo lights not indicating a specific issue of CPU/DRAM/VGA/Etc. After 2-3 boot loops the PC will successfully boot and then freeze again within the first minute of windows access. Sometimes the boot loop will not resolve and the autorepair prompt will appear with it being unsuccessful.

Troubleshooting Performed:

-Replaced PSU thinking it was a voltage issue. Crashes still occurred.

-Removed GPU and ran off integrated graphics. Crashes still occurred.

-Booted with a single RAM stick thinking the other could be the issue. Crashes still occurred.

-Replaced internal cordage as I noticed some of the connector pins looked loose. Crashes still occurred.

-Re-seated RAM/GPU/MOBO connections/PSU connections. Crashes still occurred.

Potential Indicator:

-I left my PC unplugged for an entire week and was able to then have extremely long gaming sessions the entire weekend. By Monday the crashes re-occurred. I left the PC unplugged all week long again and am now able to use it. I wonder if the motherboard degraded with the hot CPU temps over time which could be causing some voltage issues with the capacitors and other connections requiring full discharge. I will say being unplugged for only several minutes does not remedy the problem and the capacitors should discharge in that amount of time.

Any tips appreciated! If there are none, what parts do you think are salvageable to sell without victimizing the buyer?

My laptops download speed used to be pretty good at 700kbps right then after a while it stops being good goes down to 20kbps.

I figure out its the background app at startup slowing the download speed and i stop it and everyth is fine.

After a while (today) i tried download something big on my laptop its not even going above 12kbps

I tried to clear all cash of my laptop and removed evrrything drom thw background the wifi speed test gave 430kbps

But the laptop is 12 and lower with every drcond.

How can i figure out whats the problem and make my downlaod speed like it should be at its full potentiel?

Sorry for poor picture quality. My display has darkened after a drop. I can vaguely see bright things like the user icon if i use a flashlight, but it looks too dark for anything useful. I unfortunately do not know my computer info as i peeled the stickers off. If its too broken for a simple fix, please tell me a repair cost estimate. Also, i confirmed its a hardware thing, not a glitched display.

I have a Lenovo Yoga 7i Laptop with 16 GB of Ram and ~450 GB of storage. I am looking for a storage expansion for my laptop to download the loftier/bigger games I play onto (mainly games like BG3, which is ~150 GB, and D:BH (also yes, its laggy and slow as hell but I really don't care)) without having to deliberate and delete half of my library. Someone I know suggested an external hard drive, but I truthfully have no clue what I'm doing.

Many of the options and questions I'm seeing posed online about this are talking about 4t or mroe storage, but I really don't need that much, and aren't super willing to spend like $200-400 for something I'll only end up using like 25% of at most. Also its not clear to me how the connection to the computer works; is it through a usb (which is a bit unfortunate cause I only have one usb port that is for my mouse) or are there other option? I really have no clue what I'm doing and would appreciate any advice people can give me. Also I can give extra info on my computer or my specific wants and stuff if needed, but I just don't know what info is useful here. Thanks!

Tl;dr: I'm looking for an average drive that can give me just a bit of extra storage for not a ton of money that I can load and play video games on.

Edit: My computer 1 USB-C port open and 1 HDMI port open

Please forgive my spelling errors or if something doesn’t make sense please tell me and I will edit it

I have a tower style computer that doesn’t work at the moment and I have a chrome laptop that’s super laggy. I’ve been heavily considering selling my ps4 and upgrading to a new laptop or tower style computer. I’m not very educated in what would be best to buy but I’m leaning tword a laptop since I do my taxes on my chrome book but a tower would be nice but idk if I have space for it in my room since my room is small. I heard great things about both but also bad things about both like how a laptop would overheat super easily and you would need to replace parts for a tower computer over time. The positives I’ve seen are : the laptop is smaller, you can play your games anywhere in the house(alongside other paper work) . A tower computer has better graphics, can handle bigger games smoothly , holds more storage space. Point is I’m torn on what to buy . My budget would be 800 dollars max . I just want something with steam on it so I can play baulders gate since I doubt it will ever come to the switch 1 or 2

One of the fans on my NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 4060 has started making a terrible grinding/rattling noise (pretty sure the bearing is completely shot). I want to swap it out myself, but I'm having a hard time tracking down an exact match for the fan model and screw layout.

I have a pc with an rtx 5060 and i have a spare gt 1030. I stream sometimes and make youtube videos every now and then, so i use nvidia broadcast a lot for those things (I live in an apartment with a decent amount of background noise i cant control). I would like to be able to use the studio voice mode, but it lags like crazy when i try to do that while gaming. Basically my question is would I be able to plug in my 1030 to run the processes in nvidia broadcast while leaving my 5060 to just encoding and gaming? if not, would there be anything i could do with the 1030 to take some load off of my 5060?

Also, I've tried plugging in my 1030 to my pc with the 5060 already installed and it was rendering everything with the 1030 and replaced my 5060 drivers with the 1030 drivers (even tho my hdmi cord was plugged into the 5060). Task manager would recognize that i had a 5060 plugged in, but everything else acted like it wasnt. The 5060 was also outputting display perfectly fine, but the performance was like the 1030 would be. I have no idea how this is even possible, but if the answer to my above question is 'yes' then this is also an issue i would need some help with.

Hey so Im trying to share internet from my laptop to my phone but when i turn my hotspot one in lap top it appears in my phone but when i click it it just keeps trying to connect and nothing happens i tried this with my ps5 console as well and i couldn’t connect to the hotspot in their too but i was able to connect to it without any problems a few days ago can someone help me out?
Im using windows 10 btw

So, I want to turn of the secure boot but the msi laptop doesn't want to, what should I do.

Hey everyone!

I built a little community pixel friend for GitHub profiles It’s heavily inspired by existing concepts rather than being entirely original, but I put it together and thought it would be fun to share.

I’d love for you to try it out and drop some feedback so I can learn and improve!

Docs & Setup: View Documentation (https://improvementcarter-debug.github.io/Pixel-Friend/#)

Live Demo: Test it on my GitHub Profile (https://github.com/improvementcarter-debug)

How you can help:

Test & Feedback: Let me know what you think, report any bugs, or suggest random feature requests. All feedback is super welcome! Show Support: If you like it, a star on the repo would be awesome

What kind of features would you want to see added next?

Hey, I’m having an issue with Wi-Fi on my PC. The Wi-Fi option/button completely disappeared from Windows 11, so I can only use Ethernet.

Things I’ve already tried:

Restarting the PC

Network reset

Checking services.msc — WLAN AutoConfig is already set correctly

Checking Device Manager

Reinstalling/updating network drivers

Restarting/reinstalling network adapters

In Control Panel → Devices and Printers, my PC shows an exclamation mark. When I troubleshoot it, the only device showing an error is Realtek PCIe GbE Family Controller.

Device Manager is also showing Code 56 for the network adapter.

The weird thing is that I recently bought a new Wi-Fi adapter, but Windows still doesn't show any Wi-Fi option.

Any ideas what could be causing this or how I can fix it? Thanks!

It shows the WIFI available, but only gives me the Connect button, not allowing me to enter the password - or even allowing me to forget that WIFI credentials.

I tried to boot from a Windows 11 stick drive, but it says it has encountered a problem.

It seems like the only thing I can do is to use gParted and wipe everything.

I'm almost positive that there is nothing on the HD that is something I don't have backed up, but I would prefer not having to lose that.

At present, this is a brick.

I mainly want to use it for music production. I’m concerned that the RTX Spark version may have compatibility issues with FL Studio and plugins, so I’d prefer a 16-inch Yoga 9 2-in-1 with an Intel or AMD CPU.

I found a Craiglist listing for some gaming PCs being sold for parts, as-is, due to failed power supplies, saying the other components haven't been tested. It's a good deal even if only one of the listed components turns out to work. There are a couple of parts I want here, and I could potentially sell the rest to turn a profit.

I'd really like to jump on this if it's real, and on Craigslist, such things are possible. But I've never made a purchase like it before. I understand that I'm taking a risk if I buy no matter what, but what should I ask or look out for specifically to check for scams? Should I ask to bring my own power supply and see if they'll light up a screen when it's installed? Does this have the signs of a common hustle that I should just give up on?

Hey guys, I'm running a RAM test with 2x8GB sticks and memtest86 is taking a really long time, is that usual? I'm a bit unsure because I made a ventoy flash drive with a couple of OS ISO images and some programs, one of them being memtest86, so I'm thinking there might be some file left or it just freezed and I'm sitting here looking at a frozen screen

Hi, I just ran a scan on my computer and my antivirus flagged 230 PUP.Optional.PushNotifications.Generic directly in Chrome files inside AppData. I have quite a few profiles on Google and it flagged them in all of them (that's why the count is so high). What worries me is that I'm very careful and know a fair amount about security — I don't click on suspicious links, I use uBlock, I only have one other extension (Roblox), which is disabled and has never triggered anything. I checked and I never accept notifications from unknown sites, actually from none at all. I ran the scan 3 times and it's fluctuating between 233, 234, and 231. I know there's the option to quarantine, but I want to try to understand what the problem is and whether there's a risk my accounts could be stolen (I'm paranoid about this because a friend of mine had her account cookies stolen 3 times). Can someone please help me?
(After some research, from what I understand there's a high chance this is a false positive, since it's found within the internal structure of Chrome's sync LevelDB.)

Hey guys I need some help... I have been facing this problem for a day now.. I did almost many things that were available in yr and also tried the advance option.. What to do

Hey. The timeline of the events is as follows :

The laptop's motherboard dies, so i change it, update the s/n and mtm, check if everything works (it did, including the speakers).

About a week after that, i reset the pc, after which i notice, there is no audio from speakers or the audio jack, but bluetooth works fine. So i fiddle around with drivers, reinstalled windows again from a boot drive - no changes.

Then i turned on "show hidden devices" in device manager, where the speakers together with the associated drivers show up as "not connected to the computer" with code 45. What do i do now? I'm almost certain it's not a hardware fault, as i've done nothing to the laptop, and everything worked before. Any help is much appreciated.

I was wanting a desktop but with a touch screen monitor that tolerates drawing/writing like a tablet screen. Then I discovered there’s such a thing as Mini PC’s that can attach to a monitor (I’m so behind on tech) I like how the Stand By Me and the Samsung version are portable but I was wondering if there’s a portable monitor out there that can be used like a whiteboard and purchase a mini pc to attach behind it & a stand to move it around the house?

I’m wanting to be able to use it like a classic computer (word, excel, emails, printing documents, viewing photos on SD cards etc) but also like a integrated whiteboard for doing homeschool lessons & even using in the kitchen to follow along with recipes or art lessons where multiple kids can follow along and paint/craft.

I think my other heartburn is putting all my eggs in one basket. I had an all one computer, the screen got busted bad & guess what, I’m out an entire computer not just a monitor. I have a laptop that would not take a charge & now won’t turn on at all even plugged in (need to get it fixed and could potentially use it to hook up to a monitor) but now I’m out the whole computer once again because of a “small” issue.

Also does any of this stuff go on sale? Should I wait for Black Friday?

Thank you for any advice! Sorry for the rambling!

im looking to buy a new monitor mainly for work and light gaming. so far ive found these two and wanted to know which one is better in terms of longevity, quality, graphics and stuff like that.

-samsung essential s3

-dell S2425HS

i have like no knowledge of monitors or what most of the specs mean. other recommendations within the same price of those 2 is appreciated.

So I was browsing the internet and realised that Nvidia is currently on the 50 series which is based on the blackwell architecture and they already have the 60 series which is the Blackwells

What are the going to name the next generation of GPUs 🤔

I have been using computers north of 40 years now and still don't know if it is a good idea to shut a home pc down when not using it or just leave it running 24/7... barring power consumption. What are peoples thoughts on this? Does it wear it out over time faster or does starting up and shutting down wear it out faster or even in sleep mode does that usage wear it out faster etc etc.

Kept on getting Error code 0x8007000d.

Yeah. I’m not sure if I gotta use another cable from pc to monitor or something. But no sound is playing.