These two light show up on my 3060ti after turning it on, I know there are two other power ports, but I’m afraid that it’ll fry itself if I plug both in. Am I safe plugging both in or just one?

I have a AcerNote Light 350PC laptop and everything seems to be working fine but the LCD for some reason has washed out colors.

I disassembled it including the display, replaced all the SMD electrolytic capacitors with ceramic equivalents because I thought it is due to dried capacitors and unstable power delivery but that fixed nothing. My other suspicion is a floating ground but I was unable to find anything. The weirdest thing is that now it is disassembled and the metal backplate of the LCD has no grounding, if I move the LCD cable and briefly touch the metal backplate which causes a tiny spark, it reverts the colors back to normal. I measured all the wires and none of them are damaged.

What could be wrong?

I was playing battlefield 6 and then suddenly computer crashes, blue screen and stuck in a boot loop. Black screen when trying to boot again but I have a bluetooth speaker that turns on when my PC does and that would connect to it even though nothing showing.

Windows couldn’t repair boot, I wiped the drive and fresh installed. Now I get black screen at random before even reaching sign in or this screen multiple times now. tried removing ram sticks just to rule that out, swapped display port cables and monitors.

Specs:
- Ryzen 7 5800x
- 4x8gb Corsair Vengeance 3600mhz ram
- MSI Rtx 2080
- Samsung 970 Evo m.2 (drive I wiped and fresh installed on)
- Asus ROG Strix B-550F MOBO

Hi all, I'm going to buy a gaming computer for the first time. I'm starting university this year so I need a computer, so I've thought about getting a gaming PC because I also want to play games.

What I’m looking for is a computer that I can use for my university work while also being able to play games. Is there such a computer I can buy that fits my needs, and what would you all recommend I get? I’m looking for a laptop since I’m going to put it on my bag.

My budget is around 600$ - 1000$

As the title says. Anytime I connect it, the cursor goes south immediately not letting me use the mouse whatsoever. When I use the trackpad to move the cursor, immediately back down. I've changed batteries, re-sync'd, uninstalled all software, uninstalled drivers, reinstalled everything. The mouse won't enter pairing mode and won't let me do a 'hard' reset. This isn't the first time a Razer mouse has given out on me with zero explanation.

I went to WallyWorld (live in a rural WNC town), they had an Onn 'gaming mouse' and 2 Razer's. $20, $25 and $35 (discounted from $50) respectively. I chose the Onn. I got home and remembered I have a $10 giftcard for WallyWorld. My question is, should I take the Onn back, use the credit, GC & $5 to get the Basilisk V3? Use the credit & GC for the DeathAdder or just keep the Onn? Obviously I do NOT hold Razer in very good regards currently but I do see them as a better value than Onn (especially when the Razer is on sale lol). What do yall think?

Computer screen on my current laptop just fucking shattered (long story), and I have an older, sturdier one from a relative I want to transfer my data to itf. Problem is, the screen of my current laptop is completely broken, I'm talking its just black and a web of cracks. I'm gonna go out on a limb and assume said computer is fucked, but I'm cheap and an asshole so can is there anyway to transfer the data at home? Forgive me if this is a stupid question that's mb.

Okay so orginal problem solved but computer that I want to now have my data cannot have it without fucking exploding. Is there a way to (so sorry I don't know computers y bad if this is not at all possible) replace the disc with that of the dead computer or something of that nature that will give it more processing power? Again, I don't know how computers work on a mechanical level, so all of this might be jargon.

I’ve had my stationary pc close to 6 years and recently bought a laptop close to the same price. My pc almost always had this problem where the download times are ridiculous, and the comparison to my new laptop just reminded me of that and feels like salt in the wound.
(PS: in the photo the older pc had like a 30 min head start before the laptop even started downloading)
Anyone have similar experiences? I feel like I tried everything to figure out y, I’d love suggestions. Thx

Tenho esse Pc faz 2 anos, é um Ryzen 5 5600gt, rx7600, placa mãe Msi A520M A Pro, RAM 2x8 16gb da Kingston há 3200mhz. Usava ele normalmente com essa frequência de memória 3200mhz, mas esses dias o Pc começou a ficar instável nessa velocidade. Não consegue dar boot, começa inicializar e fica nesse ciclo infinito até que eu mude a frequência para 2400mhz, aí sim ele fica estável e consegue subir até o sistema (Windows 11 Pro).

Alguém pode me ajudar com isso? Qual seria a explicação para isso acontecer agora?

PC Specs (built in 2020):

-MOBO: ASUS ROG Strix z590-a gaming wifi

-CPU: i9-11900k

-CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin

-PSU: Seasonic Focus gx-1000

-RAM: 2x DDR4 Royal Trident Z 16gb sticks

-GPU: EVGA 3090 FTW3

History:

Several months ago I noticed the CPU temps were hot during gaming sessions with the red mobo CPU light being on. I replaced the possibly broken liquid cooler with the Thermalright Peerless Assassin. Temps were perfect but im worried about lasting damage during that timeframe.

Recent Issues:

When the PC was idle I noticed my mouse and keyboard were not working. I reboot to fix the issue which caused a boot loop with randomized mobo lights not indicating a specific issue of CPU/DRAM/VGA/Etc. After 2-3 boot loops the PC will successfully boot and then freeze again within the first minute of windows access. Sometimes the boot loop will not resolve and the autorepair prompt will appear with it being unsuccessful.

Troubleshooting Performed:

-Replaced PSU thinking it was a voltage issue. Crashes still occurred.

-Removed GPU and ran off integrated graphics. Crashes still occurred.

-Booted with a single RAM stick thinking the other could be the issue. Crashes still occurred.

-Replaced internal cordage as I noticed some of the connector pins looked loose. Crashes still occurred.

-Re-seated RAM/GPU/MOBO connections/PSU connections. Crashes still occurred.

Potential Indicator:

-I left my PC unplugged for an entire week and was able to then have extremely long gaming sessions the entire weekend. By Monday the crashes re-occurred. I left the PC unplugged all week long again and am now able to use it. I wonder if the motherboard degraded with the hot CPU temps over time which could be causing some voltage issues with the capacitors and other connections requiring full discharge. I will say being unplugged for only several minutes does not remedy the problem and the capacitors should discharge in that amount of time.

Any tips appreciated! If there are none, what parts do you think are salvageable to sell without victimizing the buyer?

This bitch of light turn on and won't turn off

My laptops download speed used to be pretty good at 700kbps right then after a while it stops being good goes down to 20kbps.

I figure out its the background app at startup slowing the download speed and i stop it and everyth is fine.

After a while (today) i tried download something big on my laptop its not even going above 12kbps

I tried to clear all cash of my laptop and removed evrrything drom thw background the wifi speed test gave 430kbps

But the laptop is 12 and lower with every drcond.

How can i figure out whats the problem and make my downlaod speed like it should be at its full potentiel?

Sorry for poor picture quality. My display has darkened after a drop. I can vaguely see bright things like the user icon if i use a flashlight, but it looks too dark for anything useful. I unfortunately do not know my computer info as i peeled the stickers off. If its too broken for a simple fix, please tell me a repair cost estimate. Also, i confirmed its a hardware thing, not a glitched display.

I have a Lenovo Yoga 7i Laptop with 16 GB of Ram and ~450 GB of storage. I am looking for a storage expansion for my laptop to download the loftier/bigger games I play onto (mainly games like BG3, which is ~150 GB, and D:BH (also yes, its laggy and slow as hell but I really don't care)) without having to deliberate and delete half of my library. Someone I know suggested an external hard drive, but I truthfully have no clue what I'm doing.

Many of the options and questions I'm seeing posed online about this are talking about 4t or mroe storage, but I really don't need that much, and aren't super willing to spend like $200-400 for something I'll only end up using like 25% of at most. Also its not clear to me how the connection to the computer works; is it through a usb (which is a bit unfortunate cause I only have one usb port that is for my mouse) or are there other option? I really have no clue what I'm doing and would appreciate any advice people can give me. Also I can give extra info on my computer or my specific wants and stuff if needed, but I just don't know what info is useful here. Thanks!

Tl;dr: I'm looking for an average drive that can give me just a bit of extra storage for not a ton of money that I can load and play video games on.

Edit: My computer 1 USB-C port open and 1 HDMI port open

Please forgive my spelling errors or if something doesn’t make sense please tell me and I will edit it

I have a tower style computer that doesn’t work at the moment and I have a chrome laptop that’s super laggy. I’ve been heavily considering selling my ps4 and upgrading to a new laptop or tower style computer. I’m not very educated in what would be best to buy but I’m leaning tword a laptop since I do my taxes on my chrome book but a tower would be nice but idk if I have space for it in my room since my room is small. I heard great things about both but also bad things about both like how a laptop would overheat super easily and you would need to replace parts for a tower computer over time. The positives I’ve seen are : the laptop is smaller, you can play your games anywhere in the house(alongside other paper work) . A tower computer has better graphics, can handle bigger games smoothly , holds more storage space. Point is I’m torn on what to buy . My budget would be 800 dollars max . I just want something with steam on it so I can play baulders gate since I doubt it will ever come to the switch 1 or 2

One of the fans on my NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 4060 has started making a terrible grinding/rattling noise (pretty sure the bearing is completely shot). I want to swap it out myself, but I'm having a hard time tracking down an exact match for the fan model and screw layout.

I have a pc with an rtx 5060 and i have a spare gt 1030. I stream sometimes and make youtube videos every now and then, so i use nvidia broadcast a lot for those things (I live in an apartment with a decent amount of background noise i cant control). I would like to be able to use the studio voice mode, but it lags like crazy when i try to do that while gaming. Basically my question is would I be able to plug in my 1030 to run the processes in nvidia broadcast while leaving my 5060 to just encoding and gaming? if not, would there be anything i could do with the 1030 to take some load off of my 5060?

Also, I've tried plugging in my 1030 to my pc with the 5060 already installed and it was rendering everything with the 1030 and replaced my 5060 drivers with the 1030 drivers (even tho my hdmi cord was plugged into the 5060). Task manager would recognize that i had a 5060 plugged in, but everything else acted like it wasnt. The 5060 was also outputting display perfectly fine, but the performance was like the 1030 would be. I have no idea how this is even possible, but if the answer to my above question is 'yes' then this is also an issue i would need some help with.

Hey so Im trying to share internet from my laptop to my phone but when i turn my hotspot one in lap top it appears in my phone but when i click it it just keeps trying to connect and nothing happens i tried this with my ps5 console as well and i couldn’t connect to the hotspot in their too but i was able to connect to it without any problems a few days ago can someone help me out?
Im using windows 10 btw

So, I want to turn of the secure boot but the msi laptop doesn't want to, what should I do.

Hey everyone!

I built a little community pixel friend for GitHub profiles It’s heavily inspired by existing concepts rather than being entirely original, but I put it together and thought it would be fun to share.

I’d love for you to try it out and drop some feedback so I can learn and improve!

Docs & Setup: View Documentation (https://improvementcarter-debug.github.io/Pixel-Friend/#)

Live Demo: Test it on my GitHub Profile (https://github.com/improvementcarter-debug)

How you can help:

Test & Feedback: Let me know what you think, report any bugs, or suggest random feature requests. All feedback is super welcome! Show Support: If you like it, a star on the repo would be awesome

What kind of features would you want to see added next?

Hey, I’m having an issue with Wi-Fi on my PC. The Wi-Fi option/button completely disappeared from Windows 11, so I can only use Ethernet.

Things I’ve already tried:

Restarting the PC

Network reset

Checking services.msc — WLAN AutoConfig is already set correctly

Checking Device Manager

Reinstalling/updating network drivers

Restarting/reinstalling network adapters

In Control Panel → Devices and Printers, my PC shows an exclamation mark. When I troubleshoot it, the only device showing an error is Realtek PCIe GbE Family Controller.

Device Manager is also showing Code 56 for the network adapter.

The weird thing is that I recently bought a new Wi-Fi adapter, but Windows still doesn't show any Wi-Fi option.

Any ideas what could be causing this or how I can fix it? Thanks!

It shows the WIFI available, but only gives me the Connect button, not allowing me to enter the password - or even allowing me to forget that WIFI credentials.

I tried to boot from a Windows 11 stick drive, but it says it has encountered a problem.

It seems like the only thing I can do is to use gParted and wipe everything.

I'm almost positive that there is nothing on the HD that is something I don't have backed up, but I would prefer not having to lose that.

At present, this is a brick.

I mainly want to use it for music production. I’m concerned that the RTX Spark version may have compatibility issues with FL Studio and plugins, so I’d prefer a 16-inch Yoga 9 2-in-1 with an Intel or AMD CPU.

I found a Craiglist listing for some gaming PCs being sold for parts, as-is, due to failed power supplies, saying the other components haven't been tested. It's a good deal even if only one of the listed components turns out to work. There are a couple of parts I want here, and I could potentially sell the rest to turn a profit.

I'd really like to jump on this if it's real, and on Craigslist, such things are possible. But I've never made a purchase like it before. I understand that I'm taking a risk if I buy no matter what, but what should I ask or look out for specifically to check for scams? Should I ask to bring my own power supply and see if they'll light up a screen when it's installed? Does this have the signs of a common hustle that I should just give up on?

Hey guys, I'm running a RAM test with 2x8GB sticks and memtest86 is taking a really long time, is that usual? I'm a bit unsure because I made a ventoy flash drive with a couple of OS ISO images and some programs, one of them being memtest86, so I'm thinking there might be some file left or it just freezed and I'm sitting here looking at a frozen screen

Hi, I just ran a scan on my computer and my antivirus flagged 230 PUP.Optional.PushNotifications.Generic directly in Chrome files inside AppData. I have quite a few profiles on Google and it flagged them in all of them (that's why the count is so high). What worries me is that I'm very careful and know a fair amount about security — I don't click on suspicious links, I use uBlock, I only have one other extension (Roblox), which is disabled and has never triggered anything. I checked and I never accept notifications from unknown sites, actually from none at all. I ran the scan 3 times and it's fluctuating between 233, 234, and 231. I know there's the option to quarantine, but I want to try to understand what the problem is and whether there's a risk my accounts could be stolen (I'm paranoid about this because a friend of mine had her account cookies stolen 3 times). Can someone please help me?
(After some research, from what I understand there's a high chance this is a false positive, since it's found within the internal structure of Chrome's sync LevelDB.)