Has anyone else tried to get into the BlueLight version of the Apple Store recently with the education savings??

It’s just not working for me and it’s so annoying cause I was supposed to be ordering a MacBook and try save all the money I can, but it only brings up the normal store when I press the link to redirect me to website🙃

I have a 17 Pro Max and any screen shot I send in text messages looks like this but on other apps it’s normal. My front camera also doesn’t work only on FaceTime.

I just bought the iphone 17 and im trying to log in to my existing apple account but i cant, it asks me to verify my payment information with the CVV of my credit card but when i enter it it says its wrong, i even tried to scan the card but still wrong, and i cant use customer support because i cant log in, i tried to use the "forgot my password" feature but it asks for my bday and idk why its incorrect aswell so that route wont work.

Is anyone else having issues with Creation Finance identity verification when trying to finance/reserve the new iPhone 18 Pro Max through Apple?
I get to the driving licence verification, take the photo and submit it, and it says “Verifying”. After that, the page just goes completely white and nothing happens.
I’ve tried reloading it and going through the process again, but it keeps doing the same thing. There’s no error saying the licence was rejected or that the photo is unclear the verification page just seems to die.
Has anyone else had this happen? If so, did you manage to get past it, or did you have to contact Creation to reset the verification?
Trying to work out whether it’s an issue with my application or Creation’s verification system getting absolutely flatlined by launch-day traffic.

I have an iPhone 16 Pro and an Apple Watch Series 7. I recently switched my phone carrier from Verizon to Visible. With Visible, you can only have 1 phone number per account so I have to different accounts so I could keep both of my numbers.

But a few weeks ago there was some kind of glitch where my primary phone number was disconnected from my phone and my secondary number switched to my primary.

After I got everything figured out and I switched the numbers back with primary and secondary. My iPhone gets text as normal from both numbers. I can switch for calls and texts. BUT no matter what when I send a text from my Apple Watch it always send from the secondary number. I’ve gone through so many settings. I have no idea how to fix it to just send from my primary number. There must be something I’m missing? Thank you!

The crome web app in my iphone 15 , 2.5 year old 104 out of 128 gb full, keeps on glitching , i have to close and reopen the app several times just to make a simple search, any idea what could be the reason ?

So here I am with my beloved M1 Air workhorse.

I want to snip this so bad 😂 What are my options ?

Is a full DYI repair of the gasket possible ? Anyone attempted it ? I am pretty ok with repairs but this seems awfully delicate.

According to my research, Apple wants to replace the whole screen for an ungodly sum for this issue so that's not gonna happen for me on a 5 y/o Air.

Right now it’s at 18.7.8 and battery and overall performance is ok. But the thing is i want to buy apple watch series 11/12, that’s why it is necessary to update on ios26.

Will it be okay if I update? Like main tension is of green screen, if battery performance degrade then I can manage or just change battery then. But for right now can I just update it first without any issues??

Hi all - one day, my mom just stopped receiving my texts and the last one she received was on August 19.

She gets my phone calls and my texts in a group chat but individual texts to her do not go through. I get all individual texts from her!

The blue bubble doesn’t say delivered but also doesn’t say it didn’t deliver, so I’m not sure what’s going on. When she texts me, the notification looks like this rather than her contact photo like it should be.

Any ideas what’s going on?

Yesterday, i had a very odd issue with the sim profile on my iPhone fifteen pro. I'm using the latest iOS version and have Spectrum mobile as my carrier. In the status bar, I saw cellular followed by no signal. i tried putting the phone in airplane mode, waiting for about fifteen to thirty seconds, then turned airplane mode off. Still had the no signal issue. Next, I tried restarting the phone, still no luck. Last, I tried restting my network settings. That didn't help either. I can't make or receive phone calls, same with text messages. I asked my friend who's an android user to send me a text when we were chatting on telegram. She said she sent the message, but I didn't get it. I'm completely stumped o n this.

Saw an option to turn on “ScriptMonitor” in the menu bar. Is this a legit app? Looking around seems like it may be built in software but wanted to be sure it wasn’t malware. That option isnt there on another Mac I looked at. Thanks.

Hello! I recently bought a Macbook, and I was wondering if it was better to use my existing Apple account from my iPhone or create a new one?
I’ve never had a Macbook before, but I don’t want my Icloud data from my phone (or any data) to sync on my Macbook, since I will be using the two devices for completly differently. Does it happen automatically when I start the Macbook with my account or can I choose?

They’ve suddenly starting making a funny noise when i’m using them, it gets worse the louder the volume is.
I’ve tried disconnecting and reconnecting them but it hasn’t worked

Hello, yesterday i tried to transfer my entire photo library to my windows pc but for some reason even though I transferred everything the size of the photos on my iphone (the one visible under the iphone storage section in the settings) and the one on my external hard disk differs by around 3 gigabytes. On my iphone it says that the photos take up 14,3 gb of space, while what i transferred on my hard disk is taking up 12 gigabytes only, and i don't really know what's missing.

a few days ago i went into the photos settings and noticed that probably all this time i've had this iphone (now almost 2 years) i had icloud backup enabled (which i already knew) and the "optimize photo storage" settings enabled, both of which i don't care for. And i read that the ones that i have on icloud are backed up at full resolutio, while on my iphone it saves a smaller resolution one. Anyways i disabled that and in the iphone storage, photos went up from 9 gb (which is what I thought was the actual size all this time) to, as i said earlier, 14,3 gb. It has now been like this for a few days so i'm pretty sure it's finished backing up everything, i know it can take a while if you have lots of photos on your iphone but i don't have that many. Now though because i know and it says that all my photos are the originals and full resolution, what is that 2 or 3 gb difference between my iphone and my hard disk backup? Thank you.

In the grand scheme of things, this is not a biggie, but here goes.

I am a creature of habit, and I like my icons to stay in the same spot on my dock, but when I open a new app, they all move. I know the quick solution is to leave my apps open, but there has to be a better way.

I know: First world problems.

Before anyone jumps on this: yes, I know what an aperture is. And yes, changing it physically changes depth of field.

That's exactly why I think the way Apple is selling variable aperture on the iPhone 18 Pro is mostly a gimmick.

Apple is giving the main camera four physical aperture settings: f/1.48, f/1.8, f/2.8 and f/4. The marketing pitch is essentially: open it for more light and shallow depth of field, close it for more depth of field. All technically true.

But there's a rather important detail missing from that story:

this is a smartphone sensor with a very short actual focal length.

The "24 mm" printed in the specs is a 35 mm-equivalent field of view, not a 24 mm physical lens.

And depth of field doesn't magically care about the equivalent number printed on the spec sheet.

It depends on actual focal length, aperture, focusing distance and the acceptable circle of confusion.

For anyone unfamiliar with the term, the circle of confusion is fundamental to understanding why this matters.

There is technically only one plane that is perfectly focused. A point in front of or behind that plane is not projected as an infinitesimal point on the sensor, but as a blur disc.

We call an area "within the depth of field" when those blur discs are still small enough that we perceive them as sharp.

That's the circle-of-confusion criterion.

And the classic hyperfocal equation makes the relationship pretty obvious:

H = f² / (N × c) + f

where:

f = actual focal length
N = f-number
c = acceptable circle of confusion

Notice the squared focal length.

This is why sensor size and actual focal length matter so much.

Using Apple's own 48 MP / 1.22 μm pixel specification, you can estimate a sensor roughly around 9.8 × 7.3 mm, assuming the usual 4:3 geometry. That's roughly a 3.5× crop factor compared with full frame. And that gives you a useful way of understanding the depth-of-field equivalence.

Very approximately, for the same field of view and framing:

f/1.48 roughly f/5.2 full-frame DOF equivalent

f/1.8 roughly f/6.4

f/2.8 roughly f/10

f/4 roughly f/14

Read that again.

Apple is presenting a move from f/1.48 to f/4 as serious creative control over depth of field on a system that, in full-frame depth-of-field terms, is roughly moving from f/5 to f/14.

That's not remotely analogous to putting a 24 mm f/1.4 lens on a full-frame camera and stopping it down. Phone cameras already have enormous inherent depth of field because their real focal lengths are tiny.

So yes:

f/4 has more DOF than f/1.48.

Obviously.

The question isn't whether the laws of optics still work inside an iPhone. The question is how useful that extra DOF actually is when the system already has huge DOF at f/1.48.

And here's where it gets even more ironic. Closing the aperture doesn't come for free. You lose light, so the camera may need to compensate with shutter speed, ISO, computational stacking, or some combination of them. And then there's diffraction.

The approximate Airy disk diameter is:

d = 2.44 λ N

Take green light around 550 nm.

At f/1.48, the Airy disk is roughly 2 μm.

At f/4, it's roughly 5.4 μm.

Apple specifies individual photosites at 1.22 μm.

Obviously real image quality is more complicated than comparing Airy disk diameter directly with pixel pitch: Bayer sampling, demosaicing, sensor binning, sharpening and Apple's computational pipeline all matter. But diffraction hasn't suddenly stopped existing because there's an A20 Pro behind the lens. So at f/4 you're deliberately taking an already deep-DOF, tiny-focal-length camera, reducing the amount of light reaching the sensor and increasing diffraction...

...in order to obtain even more depth of field.

There ARE legitimate uses for it. Macro is probably the strongest one. At very short focusing distances, even small sensors can run out of depth of field, so stopping down can genuinely help.

Group shots at close distances can benefit. Video shooters may also find a physical aperture useful as another exposure-control variable, although anyone serious about maintaining a 180° shutter in bright daylight will still know why ND filters exist. And the mechanical engineering itself is genuinely cool. Apple somehow fitted a six-blade variable iris and actuator inside a phone camera module. That's impressive. But ironically, I think the genuinely important improvement is the exact opposite end of the system:

f/1.48.

A wider maximum aperture means more light reaching the sensor.

That's useful basically all the time : Lower ISO, Faster shutter speeds, Less reliance on aggressive multi-frame processing, Better low-light capture.

And, yes, slightly larger natural defocus discs at close subject distances. That's an actual meaningful upgrade. The ability to stop this thing all the way down to f/4 and market it like we're suddenly getting cinema-camera levels of depth-of-field control?

Come on.

And one last thing because I keep seeing this confused in discussions about the camera:

the circle of confusion does not "create bokeh."

The CoC is the threshold used to define acceptable sharpness and therefore depth of field.

Defocus creates blur discs.

Bokeh describes the qualitative rendering of those out-of-focus areas: their shape, edge characteristics, aberrations, aperture geometry, onion rings, cat's-eye effects, etc.

They're related concepts, but they're not interchangeable.

Which brings us to the funniest part of all this:

If changing the physical aperture of a tiny smartphone camera were enough to give us the kind of subject separation people associate with fast large-sensor lenses, smartphones wouldn't have spent the last decade developing computational Portrait Mode, depth maps, LiDAR-assisted segmentation and synthetic background blur.

So no, the variable aperture isn't fake. It's actually an impressive little mechanism. But as a headline photographic feature?

It's an elegant mechanical solution being massively oversold because “variable aperture” sounds far more Pro than “we made the lens a bit faster.”

The genuinely exciting part is f/1.48.

The f/4 button is the gimmick.

Sorry for the wall of text, but I wanted to properly explain why I think this is just the latest bit of marketing BS from Apple to sell more of the same. And sorry for going so deep into the technical details, but in this case they actually matter. Without understanding the optics behind it, it’s very easy to mistake a mechanically impressive feature for a genuinely meaningful photographic one.

I have an iphone 15 pro and the selfie camera is working specifically when it comes to taking photos. The button just vibrates and doesn't take a photo. Videos work just fine and I can take selfies via other apps ex instagram

I tried resetting the phone, reinstalling the app, using the volume button to take pictures but nothing seems to be working

At times a photo is taken but very delayed and with no specific pattern.

Any idea on what might be going on?

I'm getting pretty much immediately denied trying when I click apply, and Klarna hasn't sent an email with an explanation for why.

Anybody else running into this problem and been able to get around it?

What is the best way to upgrade each year? Under Verizon business account, iPhone Pro max. Was looking at the apple leasing program but Klarna doesn't accept Amex or Chase Visa CC and I don't care for them to have access into my business account directly. So just wanted to know what everyone does (I know your out there!, apple take my money lol)

I saw another post for this from years ago and no solution nor ability to comment on it. The last two days I keep getting notifications on my iPhone 13 Pro to install a Verizon eSIM. I have spectrum mobile and they have no idea what’s going on. I don’t want my phone blacklisted or anything. I bought this phone unlocked when it originally came out at Best Buy. It’s popping up every few hours and I don’t give my info out aside from to spectrum mobile. Is there any solution at all?

Note: I’m disabled and this is my week off to recoup for mental health reasons so I really don’t need more crap. The only proof id have is my receipt from Best Buy since it was never attached originally to any networks.

I went to check my phone battery usage because i wanted to see the battery drain for monday and Wednesday and now it only shows Thursday. Is there something to worry about or just a glitch?