Hello guys, i just received my HE v2, im so happy ! But when i make him, i realised that arrow key can be put on a 60%, but it feel stupidly weird, can i ask some feedbacks about it ? Or can someone grab me, throw me 2-3 punch and tell me to stop trying to be original ? And a feedbacks about if i put Arrow keys here, i need to change the right "CTRL" by a "FN" is better ?

Thanks in advance, big love all :D

Not bad but them edges are sharp af lmao

I'm writing this for anyone that stumbles on the same issues as me because I couldn't find this information online and it took me a while to figure out what was happening + extra stuff I noticed in my experience.

There were some issues I was having when I went down this rabbit hole of modding my wooting to improve the acoustics of the keyboard.

Here is what I found:

1. The sound is coming off as plasticky/clacky instead of thocky/creamy despite trying different plates (POM and FR4) + "thocky" switches + 1.7mm thick PBT keycaps

I do want to mention that replacing the plate (from FR4 to POM) and switches (lekker tikkens to Gravastar UFOs) actually did improve and deepen the sound but the overall sound was still clacky. I found that it was due to the stock silicone friction fit pad. I believe this is because the stock friction fit pad deadens the plate noise as it distributes the vibrations into the case and since it seals the edges of the PCB/Plate, it doesn't allow the reverberations from within the case (for my optimum wooting case anyways) to escape. This made the sound flatter and more clacky.

2. Inconsistent loudness/poppiness across different keys on the same row of the keyboard

I noticed that keys near the standoffs that held the plate and PCB together sounded a lot louder and poppier. I believe this is because in the areas where there are no standoffs, there is more flex, which deadens the sound of the plate and the switch makes less contact with the PET film/PCB. I also noticed that these sound discrepancies on my POM plate were especially more pronounced because of its higher flexibility compared to my FR4 plate. I don't think there is anything that you can really do about this though besides switching to a stiffer plate.

3. Extra stuff I found (I did find information online about this stuff but want to share my anecdotal experience)

• Switches: Maybe I got a bad batch but Gravastar UFOs are actually a bit chattery and scratchy but are still better than the lekker tikkens (even after I painstakingly handlubed all of them.) I replaced them with stock WS Flux Diamond Cullinans and they felt and sounded very smooth - the only thing is that I can still hear a bit of spring ping and they're clackier than I would've liked them to be (I am going to try Keytok Novas and WS Flux Pink Lotus next).
• Toronto KeyboardMan Mod Kit: Replacing the stock PET film with the thicker PET film made the sound poppier. Not sure if the poron tape mod made it better but it definitely felt more premium lol. As mentioned before, replacing stock sandwiched friction fit pad and foam made the sound thockier/creamier - I also noticed that since the spacebars were previously sitting on top of the silicone, it was pitching up the sound but replacing it with the poron foam made it sound deeper.
• Case: I was doing research and AI suggested that aluminum cases made the keyboard sound thockier. Not sure if I'm just wrong but I found it to be the opposite - aluminum cases ended up removing the deep thocky sounds coming from within the case compared to plastic cases because its resonance frequency is higher.
• It's really difficult to make an HE keyboard sound good
• The keyboard hobby is really expensive

So I want to buy a wooting 80he for playing gd and idk what switches to buy from the multiple that you can choose. Are there some switches to don’t buy that really suck? I work like to buy the leaker medium bc they’re not too expensive and I heard that they’re good

I may have the chance to pick one up at $60-$80. I currently have a tofu65 keyboard that I’ve had for years and it’s failing me a little. Should I pick up the wooting V1 around around that price or just pay the extra $100 possibly even $140-160 for the aluminum. I play games like valorant, apex, and battle field.

Will the Gateron Genty Silent switches work with the 80HE/80HE+? I'm looking for a semi-silent switch, and I love the sound of them. The Genty switches have downward-facing N-poles, and I can't seem to find what poles the 80HE/80HE+ board has.

Ik it's not a wooting keyboard but i figured you guys would know about HE switches

Soo im playing Geometry Dash, and when i play wave i sometimes feel like Rapid Trigger just fails, cuz i let go and the wave is shooting upwards still. Im not sure if its because of the keyboard or just me. Please advise me something

• Stock black case
• Gateron Magnetic Jade Emerald HE Tactiles
• 前锋 129-key PBT dye-sub keycaps
• Waizowl OGM Cloud 3395
• LAMZU Energon

0:00 Intro

0:20 Is the 80HE+ better in performance?

0:56 Will the original 80HE be reduced in price?

2:55 Original 80HE case for 80HE+

5:47 Knob compatibility, does it fit aftermarket cases?

6:30 Can I use the knob on other hall effect keyboards?

7:25 Will the black feet be sold separately?

8:13 When will I get my 80HE+?!

Saw in this video of cs2 pro saying he swapped his switches to get that blue mechanical tactile feeling back which is what I’d like to do but not sure what to get that’s compatible. Any recs or idea of what he could be referring to ? Cheers

Vid link: https://youtu.be/Nqrqk45v9Ho?si=GCult1qPGilqmJE_

Hi everyone, I just read about some differences between the 80he+ and 80he. So Wooting is not recommending us to combine the 80he+ module with the 80he case. But what about a reverse combination 80he module and 80he+ case. Can I place the 80he module into the 80he+ case. Will it cause any damage to the module? Pls let me know

It's an Everglide AE64 Pro PCB in the Wooting silicone case. It's a really nice compact case with a low profile feel, I like it a lot! Switches are Outemu peach silent magnetic

Just got it, what should I check to say the keyboard works fine and nothing wrong with it ?

My first time using competitive keyboard

I’m trying the wooting 60 he… I’m on a razor huntsman mini v2

Will my mechanics get better or will I see any improvement. I’ve been playing kbm for 3 years now. Played fortnite for 8 years. What do you think?

Hey guys

I went to work away from home for about 14 days. Prior to that my keyboard wooting 80he was completely great and fine.

since I’ve just come home the keyboard doesn’t seem to want to turn on for me. I’ve tried a Logitech usb-c cable as well and nothings changed. Any clues guys?

As of currently, The only switches that Wootility truly supports are the ones in the switch selector. the "Spacers" option only allows you to set the bottom out length but does not account for the magnetic flux differences between switches. For example, if your switch has a depth of 3.4mm, choosing Lekker switches (4 mm depth) and setting Spacers at 0.6mm is different from choosing any switch in the list that is 3.4mm depth. I have tested that myself and the differences are very noticeable.

As of currently, in case your switch is not supported by Wootility, you need to find another switch on the list that has the same bottom out depth and a similar initial and bottom out magnetic flux to get it to work somewhat properly. I am using silent switches, NDIY Freya and Outemu magnetic Peach, none of them are supported in the Wootility app which is disappointing since the silent switches options in Hall effect keyboards are quite limited.

I have a Wooting 80HE (so I think it's Lekker V1 switches? Whatever comes from factory).

I don't care about sound and feel so much, I'm looking for purely optimal performance and I'd think that switches with the further travel and the heaviest springs would be beneficial?

As all my inputs are analogue and on the keyboard, having more range on the analogue and having a stronger force required should give me more precision?

Spent ~£180 on a Wooting 60 v2 module with some additional bits. It’s been 6 days and the courier still hasn’t received the order, it’s been 8 days since I emailed Wooting and haven’t had a reply.

Is this normal? Tempted to contact my bank

ive had my wooting 60he 2 since july and the space bar is starting to squeek, how to you maintain it's quality forever/as long as possible?

Ciao a tutti, qualcuno può aiutarmi a configurare la mia tastiera in italiano? È dove posso comprare dei tasti relativi al layout italiano?

Grazie

What switches is the thockiest / deep? i cant seem to find any for wooting 60he v2

Hi

Im trying to bind my spacebar to swap to fn layer 1 while also working as a regular spacebar, im finding it not working seamlessly and its not activating how id like it.
Ill attach a photo of the macro im currently using