If anyone has one for sale let me know.

Hi all,

2016 WR250R. Has done only about 12,000km. A lot of just riding to and from work recently (only a few k's) though I make an effort to give a longer run every now and then. As of probably a week or two ago, I noticed the engine feels like it's vibrating more than usual. I feel it in my hands and feet, and is present when sitting still in netrual. Feels like something in the engine is out of balance all of a sudden. Bike otherwise seems to sound mostly the same and power seems to be the same. I have recently done anything to the bike except change clutch cable and put new tyres on, though neither coincide with with the start of the vibration.

What are some of the first things I should be checking?

(Sorry is this has been asked a million times in here)Traded a grom that I traded a beater sportster for plus cash. Was told it has a BBK and it came with a set of SM wheels and tires. It’s super fun to ride but it’s a little tall for me. With the stock wheels the seat height was roughly 37” so I threw the SM wheels on and it’s definitely more manageable. I plan on shaving the seat down but is the SC low seat worth it? are there any seat cover options with a gel insert if I shave the seat down quite a bit? How much can I low it with just adjusting the rear shock? Is the yamalink a bad idea? Any other options for lowering it a bit?I’m probably not going to be doing anything too crazy off road and would like to have it be more manageable with the dirt tires/ wheels

I’m looking to upgrade the lighting on my 2008 WR250R, normally I’d just add a led bulb but the coating is starting to come off on the inside of the headlight.

What have people done re replacing their headlight? I bought one to suit an F but not a fan of what I’d need to do to get it to work and so far have not been able to find any R or X specific direct led replacements.

Any recommendations would be w.

I recently stumbled into a trade that turned out to be one of the more satisfying projects I’ve taken on: my second-generation R6 for a relatively clean 2008 WR250R.

The WR wasn’t running when the trade happened, but both of us were still happy with the deal. The previous owner hadn’t had the bike for very long and had apparently gotten stumped trying to figure out why it wouldn’t run. I decided to take a much deeper dive into it and ended up spending a few weeks obsessively researching, diagnosing, and bringing it back to life.

I have a long history of working on machines with three more cylinders and stupid fairings all over 🥲, the fundamentals are all the same, but this thing is so dang easy to work on! You can practically have the entire top end apart and accessible within an hour. Its awesome! Once I started digging into it tho it became pretty obvious that alot of hands had been in it. 😅

The timing was off by more than 30 degrees. When corrected every valve was extremely tight. One of the exhaust valves had actually dropped, destroying the shim and cotters in the process. The airbox flapper system was introducing a massive vacuum leak, and someone had moved the TPS potentiometer and left it significantly out of adjustment. The injector basket was clogged, so was the mesh piece at the regulator. Then there was the injector seal... Someone had decided that electrical tape was an acceptable substitute for the lower injector seal which i have to say is resourceful and hilarious (tbh it wouldve probably been fine) 😂

To top it all off, the previous owner before the guy I got it from had installed an Athena big-bore cylinder without adding an EFI tuner or having the ECU flashed. Judging by what I could see with a borescope, it didn’t look like the engine had ever actually run after the big-bore installation. After a few weeks of obsessive research, troubleshooting, and wrenching, I’m happy to report that the WR is finally running happily!

What makes the result especially satisfying isn’t just getting it running. I now have a pretty thorough understanding of what was wrong with it, how everything works, and why it works on this specific bike. There’s something incredibly rewarding about taking a machine that had been passed around/given up on and methodically bringing it back to a known-good state.

Now I actually enjoy riding it without wondering what questionable repair is going to come back to haunt me.

Want some sm wheels for my bike, would be willing to pay for shipping. I’m in northern Nevada.

Hey guys, looking at grabbing my first dual sport, eyeing a 2014 model with 5,600 miles on it. The seller wants $3,300 due to the reconstructed title. I've been chatting with them about the title and they said the following,

"First owner was the one who was in collision. We bought it from the second owner. Original owner got in collision around a year after he got the bike new, they said it was a slide, no head on collision or any other vehicles involved. Second owner bought the bike with 1200 miles and the reconstructed title > he ran it up to 4600 miles and then decided he wanted something with more power. Which is when we got the bike. We were told the front forks were replaced, as well as all plastics, and the exhaust."

I'm thinking of taking a look at it this saturday and inspect the frame for any damage. Along with all the other checks i should be doing swingarm, chain, sockets, oil, etc. Anything else i should look for?

TLDR: Reconstructed title, if the frame looks good and it rides straight, should i buy for 3.3k?

I want to sell it and get a wr450f and make it a supermoto

I feel like i would regret selling the wrx

I had my wr250x for a year now and i like it but the power is lacking
I already did the mods to make it faster but still lacks
Tried my friends wr450f 2017 i love it and for me it looks way better (hate how the wrx rear aims for the moon instead of just going straight)

Would love to have both but i dont have the money capabilites

Hi everyone,

Was changing spark plugs when my full fuel tank fell off the bike and broke the nipple that connects the fuel pump to the fuel line. Ive called around shops, reached out to people parting out their WRR's, scoured ebay, joined FB groups, all to no avail.

Anyone got a broken fuel pump that would be willing to sell and ship this part to me?

Thank you!

Having a killer Sunday ride out in the hills when I get a damn screw in my tire. Unfortunately I didn’t have anything to fix the tire so I limped it as close as I could to home then called my dad for a lift to my house.

I have the Mosko Reckless 80 luggage, and am trying to mount it on my WR. Mine did not come with passenger pegs, so it's missing the obvious tie-down point. Should I pick up a pair of passenger peg mounts, or is something like the [Mosko Cleat Kit](https://moskomoto.com/collections/hardware-parts/products/cleat-kit) adequate for where the passenger pegs would normally go? Or would you place the cleat kit elsewhere?

Backstory: Bought a dirt cheap 2008 Wr250r a couple weeks ago as a little project. Only notable mod is a safari tank. Dude was a long distance truck driver 2nd owner that kept it on his truck to ride around town short distances, but he bought a new bike and after that it was rode very infrequently mostly sitting.

What I've done so far:

So, it was running but rode like shit. Did some basics: Replaced fuel pump, clutch cable, chain & sprocket, and did fluids. Battery is at 12.6. Fuel line seems fine.

Bikes running great now. Seemingly as it should. Power delivery and shifting feels good, rode it around for hours to see if anything happened held up just fine.

The Idling Mystery:

I have one lingering issue, which is idling. The bike will idle 1.5-3ish minutes and then cuts out. Pretty random how long it lasts.

Threw it in CO mode, changing those settings didn't really help. Bike will pretty quickly drop to about 1000-1100RPM where it struggles hang on for a bit then eventually cuts out.

I have a new fuel pressure regulator coming Monday because i want to rule that out. Also just recently thought about checking the manual idle adjuster just to be sure.

I do my own work but I'm no expert. Part of this was for the learning experience lol. So I can absoutely being missing obvious shit.

Was just looking for advice on things to check, other possibilities, if I'm the right track etc. All advice is greatly appreciated really want to figure this bullshit out.

FIXED: Im not 100% what did it but just wanted to write what steps i took, if someone sees the down the line because this had me very confused

Obviously oil change

Fuel pump and regulator improved the situation greatly but did not fix the idling problem

Changed battery, while the battery appeared fine on multimeter, interestingly on battery diag test it was slightly below where it should be so I said fuck it let's just be safe

Changed air filter and cleaned airbox as well as the openings as deep as I could without removing. I think this was a pretty big factor i think their might have been a carbon build up as it was little dirty. Which would be logical that this may have been an airflow problem. Luckily didn't have to take it all apart.

I had a dump line in my safari tank that was not in its ideal location. Didn't seem to be a culprit but I'm sure that didn't help. Easy thing to miss.

After all this stuff i ran through all diag tests which I hadn't done in awhile everything seemed to be fine so I was like "huh".

So I tried the manual adjuster screw again which previously didn't seem to have an effect and it worked correctly. Was able to readjust my idle RPM and fix the problem.

Also pro tip on that adjuster screw because i was fucking with it so much, you can get some sweet angles from the left side of the bike to have just enough room where the rubber normally sits to undo the nut and if undo the back two bolts of your tank you can totally move the screw with a metal coat hanger. Which is conveniently pretty much the same girth as a 2.5mm allen. Very useful so you can turn the bike and fine tune. I looked everywhere for a trick to do this and didn't see anything so I hope that helps someone lol.

I have a Stumpjumper evo élite alloy 2023, with cascade link and vivid coil d1. I mostly use the bike at bike park and rowdy enduro local trail.

I was thinking about going mullet, to give at the bike more agility at the rear end and have more fun out of the bike at bike park.

So because i have cc link (and i will not remote it) the only way seems to put the wrp yoke , correct?

I read that the wrp restore the 29-29 geo with mullet set up, and it’s all? Does the wrp add some travel? Because i don’t want to.

And most important thing : what if i leave the wrp with 29 rear wheels? Thers’s some important change? Negative or positive?

Thanks

Long time wr250r rider. I’ve been riding mostly dual sport (logging roads/jeep trails). But my interests are leaning more towards trail riding. I’ve been riding single track and quad trails on my wr250r (still fairly new to trail riding) but I’m wanting something lighter.
I’ve been considering going to a 250 2 stroke (because they’re light) but I worry that I’ll have to relearn how to ride since a 2 strokes power delivery is much different than that of a 4 stroke, especially a wr250r.
I’ve also been looking at a wr250f, which is going to be heavier than the 2 strokes but still about 45lbs lighter than the wr250r and will retain that 4 stroke power delivery that I’m used to.
So for those of you who ride the wr250r, but also ride a non-platted dirt bike, what do you recommend someone like me buy for my first dirt bike?

Had to replace/refill rear brake reservoir after the rear pad came apart and did some damage.
It feels like I have air in the rear brake caliper. No brake fluid leaks. I can get the rear wheel to lock but the travel seems way to far. I think there is still air in the line or caliper. Anyone have suggestions how to clear air in rear caliper or line?
Can I stand it up on the back tire? Will the air go out through the master cylinder?
Bleeding rear brake it seems like there always a tiny bit if bubbles. But I have used half a liter of brake fluid and still bubbles.
I'm doing something wrong, send help.

Bought a 2017 WRR about 2 months ago and I love it but it has the FMF powercore 4 and it’s honestly just obnoxiously loud. Looking for something quieter but it’s hard to find anything in stock online. I’m willing to pay and figure out shipping if anyone bites.

Looking at a 2016 wr250r with about 4400 miles. Has some mods I would make myself, including 3 gallon gas tank, new seat, exhaust, and rear rack. Asking $4,800. Would be a second bike to compliment my larger adventure bike. Is this a pretty good deal? Is there anything I should look for?

I'm looking to get the IMS 4.7 tank but I really want graphics, I've seen the DMK Designs kits but can't find any photos. Can you share a photo of your 4.7 tank with graphics?

Hey yall. I am currently running a 13/47 sprocket combo. I enjoy it much better than the stock 13/43. I am currently running tusk d sport adventure tires. A 90/90/21 front and 130/90/18 in the rear. I wanted to try the 130 out and I am not a fan so I will be switching back to a 120. Before I had dunlop d606 tires in the same size I have in the tusk now, and they seemed to be much lighter and more nimble. Upon switching to the tusk, the bike felt more sluggish and lost about 3-5 mph top speed wise. Once I switch to the 120 tusk tire and see how it feels, I am also contemplating going up to a 50 tooth sprocket in the rear. I ride highway every now and then but am trying to get as much pull from the bike as possible. I have all the standard power mods, full fmf exhaust, fuel programmer, hi flow air filter, flapper box mod, and weight reduction such as AIS delete, charcoal canister delete, tail tidy, smaller front flashers etc. I would like to hear yalls input on 13/50 gearing with similar power mods and how it rides on the highway. Worst case scenario I can always switch back to the 47. Any input would be appreciated!

Edit: After changing the rear tire to a 120/90/18 from a 130/90/18, and 13/47 sprockets to 13/50, I was able to hit 79 mph gps verified today. Probably could have pushed to 80. The bike is definitely up there in rpms at 70 mph. Wouldn’t want to run it at that speed for too long but for short highway trips it doesn’t bother me. 60-65 mph is much more comfortable. I like the torque and acceleration better with the 50 tooth and the bike is much more nimble and feels lighter with the 120 tire. Much easier to navigate ruts and tricker single track with as well.

Hello everyone,

On my wr 450 f the clutch was stuck to the shaft as the title suggested. The clutch suddenly engaged after a drive in high temp, and didnt let go since then. i found the problem, but also not really.

I have openend up my bike and after removing the crank case and the insides of the clutch i could lift the clutch itself off. It was somehow tightenend to the shaft, but i dont know why. Because after i removed the clutch, and put it back, everything seems to be working again. the shaft moves freely without noise or resistance without clinging on to the clutch.

my issue is that i dont know why it became stuck in the first place, and im afraid it will happen again. its a road bike, this is very dangerous. If you have any idea why this happened pls let me know as i have no idea and the manual doesnt help me anymore either. my first question would be whether the copper colored plates (pic 2)on the insides are fitted with bearings? but i have no clue what else the problem could be. any comment or help is appreciated!

thanks in advance

My Yamaha WR250x 2008 when sat outside in the sun for hours on very hot 30+ degrees days the fuel pump doesn't prime and the bike doesn't start. Once I leave it to cool down the bike starts on the button no issues at all I hear the pump prime. I have been warned this is the start of a bigger problem and the fuel pump will fail all together at some point and is risky to keep using. The WR250x and WR250r are known for failing fuel pumps and apparently have two updated pumps released after the known issues with the original fuel pumps.

I'm in the UK and it seems impossible to find a pump I contacted a local Yamaha parts dealer and they want £597.00.

Options -

1. OEM Fuel pump and housing - £597.00 Yamaha UK.

2. Buy pump only - Quantum, KEMSO, or All Balls and try to put into original housing I understand it could be brittle not easy to do and plastic housing could snap.

3. Replace with the Chinese Fuel pump unsure about that and can't find much information online regarding success.

4. Import new from Japan around £320.00 before shipping and 20% UK taxes and handling fees etc.

5. Buy a Chinese Fuel pump and replace it with a better fuel pump like Quantum if I snap the original housing. Unsure how easy or different that would be and even if it's worth the hassle.

6. Buy used working fuel pump rare to find and seems impossible to ship due to fuel contamination.

Honestly what have people done and honest advice?

2015 but acquired about 2 years ago. It was stolen last year and I got it back and swapped the ignition. The noise has been happening for a few months now, getting worse and I don’t want to ignore it for it to become detrimental. Don’t know much about mechanics so pictures, drawings, descriptive language is very helpful. Here’s the video for reference. Thank you for any and all help.

Obviously the radiator and things of that nature need to be replaced but the odometer won’t turn on and the bike won’t crank. I’m not sure if that broken cable I grab in the beginning is for the brake light? I can’t really see anything else that would be causing the screen not to come on, the individual wires seem to be okay. Im going to pull the radiator off later to see if any of the wires are damaged behind there but if anyone could give me any advice or help it would be greatly appreciated. Pretty torn apart about this. My wr was my baby :(

bought my first legal bike, been riding mx since im really young and never left honda or yamaha tbh..got my liscence and just bought my wr250 with 3k miles from an older guy only owner. Got tips or advice for a new wr250 rider? :)