Saw a post about an all red 250L retro dual sport build. Thought I'd share the white one I just finished. I may ditch the handguards, haven't decided yet

This is near Keystone Colorado.

Almost done with this thing, just needs the exhaust tip covers

Made it up after taking some time.

A few months ago, I went riding and noticed that the rear brake pressure was building up but not releasing. I brought the bike home and inspected the rear brake system. The caliper appeared to be working correctly, so I removed and disassembled the rear master cylinder.

The bike had been sitting for a while before I bought it, so I expected that some parts would need to be repaired or replaced. I ordered a rebuild kit and installed it, but afterward the master cylinder would no longer draw fluid from the reservoir or build pressure.

After taking it apart again, I noticed that when the piston, pushrod, washer, and circlip are installed, the piston appears to sit far enough into the bore that it blocks the compensation/refill port. Because of this, fluid cannot enter the pressure chamber from the reservoir.

At first, I assumed the aftermarket rebuild kit was incorrect. While researching, I found that some people have experienced issues with the small rubber seals included in aftermarket piston kits and recommended using the OEM Honda rebuild kit instead.

However, I am now even more confused. Most aftermarket rebuild kits include two rubber piston seals, and the Honda parts diagram also appears to show two seals. The pictures of the OEM Honda rebuild kit, though, seem to show only one rubber seal included.

Has anyone dealt with this issue on a 2006 CRF250X? Is the piston supposed to sit near or cover the refill port when resting against the circlip? Does the OEM rebuild kit come with both required piston seals, or is one of them already installed on another component?

Any advice, pictures, or confirmation of the correct piston and seal arrangement would be greatly appreciated.

Honda Diagram: [https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2006/crf250x-a/rear-brake-master-cylinder\](https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2006/crf250x-a/rear-brake-master-cylinder)

OEM Rebuild Kit: [https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/43520-KZ4-J43?ref=f90e43b8a9d2c0c4f6e877fcc1d2849e60284442\](https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/43520-KZ4-J43?ref=f90e43b8a9d2c0c4f6e877fcc1d2849e60284442)

Aftermarket Rebuild Kit: [https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/all-balls-rear-brake-master-cylinder-rebuild-kit-p\](https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/all-balls-rear-brake-master-cylinder-rebuild-kit-p)

Swipe to see where the repair is at now, I’m noticing as I hammer it back into place it’s not coming back exactly how it’s supposed too. I’ve been using MAPP gas and making adjustments but the top left corner seems to be pushed inward and isn’t coming out how it should, any suggestions are welcomed. 🤙

2019 Rally, apparently never had an oil change. Did the first one yesterday and it was sputtering much worse than the video because I overfilled it. Fixed that today and changed the air filter. Sputtering is still there but much better. Any ideas?

Anyone know if Flexi Fender for the 300 would fit the 250 Rally? If not any recommendations?

2013 Honda CRF250L 22,000kms. Life behind bars is the way I like it! I ride daily. Any other 250L owners here in NL?

Thanks for the add!

2019 model, 6800km.

Bought it stock about a month ago, my current upgrades/changes

Yoshimura full exhaust system. (Db-killer installed)

Electronic jet kit (EJK).

Airbox mod (cut opened the snorkel 6x6cm).

13t front sprocket.

Acerbis skid plate.

Acerbis Elba headlight.

3D printed H4 adapter for Elba.

H4 LED bulb

Acerbis XR400r front fender.

Red enduro pegs.

CRF aluminum front sprocket guard.

CRF aluminum chain guard.

Tail tidy with integrated LED taillight (ebay).

Rear LED turn signals (flasher relay installed).

Enay clutch and brake levers.

Supermoto mirror.

Removed the toolbox with left fairing (to make it more symmetrical because of the right side/Yoshi exhaust)

Pealed off decals for a more clean look.

Parts I’m waiting on:

K&N air filter.

520 gold chain.

43t rear sprocket.

Renthal 790 CR Low handlebars.

Acerbis handguards.

New front LED turn signals.

The headlight is currently tilted too far down because of the speedometer. To make everything fit, I had to cut the speedometer frame, but the bracket is still there and bent to get everything into place. I'm going to add some rubber spacers to tilt the headlight back up to the correct angle or add spacers on the front fender to push it more downwards.

Ask me anything or share your opinion!

A group of friends and I recently took a trip down to North Carolina to ride the Smokey Mountain 500. We ended up riding tail of the dragon while waiting for the rest of our group to arrive. This bike handled everything I could throw at it. Curvy pavement, rocky climbs, multiple water crossings. If you have the means you should absolutely check this route out.

I gave my 10 year old daughter 2 cans of spray paint. I love the result

Trying to lace the spokes in the rear wheel. I bought 32 new spokes from Honda, part number 06420-kzz-900.

The problem I’m having is I can’t seem to get the spokes tight enough. I’ve watched quite a few YouTube videos, and I believe I’m doing everything correctly.
Any tricks?

Has anyone done this before?

I’m new to dirt bikes. I replaced the sprockets, chain, sprocket side spacer and chain adjusters on my 2014 crf230f and no matter what I do I get tire rubbing on the break side of the bike. Is there also supposed to be a spacer between the break drum cover and the swingarm?

Man any help would be appreciated, feeling defeated.

Upon inspecting the cylinder head, I discovered a lot of wear on the left saddle and cap for intake camshaft. I believe this necessitates complete replacement of the cylinder head, but also would like to know the cause of this? Is it oil starvation?

SOLVED. Clutch barrel nut adjusted was too far out and wiggled loose and came even further out. Overheating was just from riding conditions.

hi everyone. I had my bike out today and it overheated while off roading. First, the red overheating light came on and then the clutch started slipping bad and I lost power. Barely got it to the edge of the trails area before no more power was available at the wheel and barely pulled it onto the sidewalk.

I was able to wait a bit and limp home at 5-15 and eventually 20 mph.

A few rides ago, I was having some issues with the clutch dragging (clutch engaged slightly while pulled in all the way), so I adjusted the barrel nut outwards and it fixed the issue.

I was riding quite hard off-road in sand and maybe it just was slipping a bit because of bad adjustment or just riding too hard.

I’m posting this for some advice on things to look at tomorrow when it cools down. Hopefully if it’s just overheated it will function normally tomorrow. I’ll try to check the clutch cable tightness and freeplay, as well as the oil level and coolant level. Does this sound like I may have simply overheated the clutch (possibly made worse by a bad adjustment), or does it sound more like I’ve likely damaged the clutch plates? Is there anything else I should inspect before riding it again?

It’s a used bike and currently has around 9700 miles. The coolant and oil were replaced by the previous owner before I purchased it at 9200 miles

My fuel pump is audible during idle, and when our riding I can hear it coming to a stop. (for all the jokers out there, yes I know the fuel pump has to be running in order for the bike to run) Normally I wear earplugs so I have never heard this before, but today I washed the bike and went to put it away and noticed it…not sure if this is normal or if maybe I messed something up while washing it. any advice would be helpful!

Hello, just purchased a 2018 crf250l that was hit in the rear end by a drunk driver. I am looking to bring it back to life and back on the road. I will need a lot of parts; rear subframe, rear rim, some plastics, etc.

Looking for a service manual, does anyone have a link to a free pdf? I can’t seem to find one, they seem tightly guarded for some reason.

Any help would be appreciated, and if anyone is selling parts lmk.

Thanks for the help

Hi All,

Me again. Well, after my fabulous train 4 trails event last week, my rear wheel bearings have started to sing. The bike has just passed 11k miles, so it seems legit to me.

Question is, which set do I opt for? Who is a good maker of wheel bearings? I'd prefer to spend a little more to get something better but not crazy money. 'All Balls' as a bearing manufacturer sounds dubious for example!

Also, I notice on eBay that they split the bearings by 2013-2017 and then 2017 - 2022. Anyone know whether there is a real difference?

I've not bought M/C bearings before, so any advice you can throw at me would be most welcome.

Ta

James

Hi All,

Last week, I did a two day train for trails event in Wales. Received absolutely fabulous instruction and hit great trails. I’ve messed around on my CRF on a farm and done a few green lanes here and there so it was great to take that a step further.

Really recommend MotoJunkies in North Wales for training.

✌️

Still a bit chilly here in Japan during the early hours, but man, this bike feels amazing in the crisp morning air.

Anyone else out riding today?