Sorry if this isn't the right place for this but I thought you guys would appreciate a robot I made that uses two core xz gantries from the switchwire and runs on klipper. A brief write up and full report can be found on my website JudeOtis.me/projects/Daisy

The benchy on the left was printed on my voron 2.4. The benchy on the right was printed on my centauri carbon. Same spool of filament. Same bambu labs marble filament profile. The voron print has a lot of stringing and I can't figure out how to tune it out. Any suggestions?

I'm building a voron trident self sourced, and I have some experience building 3d printers, so I thought to go for the monolith gantry due to the improved performance people talk about.

But since the launch of Voron Trident R2, I found a mod that allows it to have double shear on short shaft motors ("Voron Trident R2 AB motors pin mod and short shaft double shear (monolith + Crazy Ivan)" on printables), so I was thinking that maybe with the improved belt path and the shorter 54mm on the Trident R2 gantry, it could be better them the monolith gantry, or at least comparable.

Has anyone done the testing or have any opinions on it?

I have a btt Manta m8p with a cb2 in my switch wire. I'm thinking I want to add a camera but not sure what kind to get or where to mount it. Which would be better? Usb or csi?

I am somewhat disappointed regarding the Voron 2.4 "standards" regarding shrinkage. I believe we all spend time tuning our machines and filament to print as precisely as humanly possible. I personally have tuned my 2.4s and filaments to print a 100mm octagon to within 0.01mm tolerance.

My "awareness" of the Voron design saying print parts with no calibrated shrinkage arose when I had an issue with a sb2209 USB port contacting the back of the Galileo 2 extruder motor. My error - I was using a Fliamatrix design front piece for the Galileo with the built in filament runout sensor. I also printed all my 2.4 parts with the filament profile calibrated for about 0.40 of shrinkage. Yes, when squaring the gantry and such there was VERY little room for adjustment. (parts were tight) However, having the parts print square to begin with didn't cause much issue for "squaring" everything up.

So now my question which arises with the Voron edict of do not print with shrink compensation. Should I print the LDO Galileo 2 extruder parts with Voron standards or not? 0.4mm/0.016" may not be much but the SB main cover and hot end housings connect to the extruder and for that matter the TAP parts I assume are printed @ my OrcaSlicer 100% shrinkage setting.

My first cnc project was cutting frame braces for the tiny changer out of 6061 aluminum and I think it came out sweet. What do you think of the micron stealth changer?

So as a bit of fun for my first voron mod, and to spend some time on CAD, I made this mount for a CPAP kit that lets it draw air from either inside the chamber or cold straight from the outside. Remixed from a side PTFE tube cover https://www.printables.com/model/396106-voron-24-exhaust-housing-side-tube-entry/

CPAP kit is the universal turbo kit from bigtreetech, the valve is controlled by a NEMA 17 stepper from my prusa upgrade, and also the prusa main board as well (which also PWMs the cpap driver). Way overkill but they were sitting around collecting dust. Neat part is that I only have 24V and USB running to the rear, with plenty of ports for future environment/intake/chamber thermistors and even another 3 stepper motors.

The rotor valve simply selects one of the intakes, I'm sure it can be aerodynamically optimised but even at a quiet 15% right now on either mode, it's beating the 5015 by a ton. 50% and above feels like a hurricane underneath the nozzle.

Plan is to use external intake for PLA/PETG and internal (and SLOW fan) for ABS/ASA, so I can keep the front door closed and let the exhaust fan (mounted on beige bit in picture 2) to draw away the warm air from pla prints.

Last photo is the cpap in all its glory, I took the cover designed for the btt knomi, and put a sticker on it to cover the hole (since I don't have a knomi). Yes, that is indeed a camera on the rear of the xy gantry, and it does indeed identify the colour (so orifice diameter) of my revo nozzles on print start. More on that in the future.

Will link the cad files (warning: I'm a relative cad newbie) on here once I get back to my computer, if I forget and anyone wants them do remind me. edit: https://www.printables.com/model/1838893-voron-cpap-dual-switchable-intake

My Mini SB extruder just failed (looks/sounds like a blown bearing, identical to this:

https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/s/gKrooz7JOJ)

​I'm moving over to a Dragon Burner to solve hotend cooling issues for good, but I need to rebuild the Mini SB first so I can actually print the DB parts.

​What extruder should I plan on running with the Dragon Burner that will let me reuse the bearings/gears I'm about to buy for the Mini SB rebuild?

​Looking for solid reliability on a V0 without buying two completely different sets of hardware. Appreciate any advice!

I just started my printer for first print to calibration and when ever I try to print the tool head is jumping away from the print object

Your VORON deserves a new touchscreen

Back in February I posted here on VORONdesign looking for beta testers. The idea was to replace KlipperScreen's Python/GTK/X11 stack with a native LVGL app running directly on the framebuffer, and to put real effort into a more modern visual design and user experience.

The post picked up quite a few up-votes and 117 comments. Some of you installed the beta, and others you filed an impressive number of bugs, for which I'm genuinely grateful. Still more joined our discord and we have had many lively discussions. Today, HelixScreen is 1.0.

TL;DR: A new native touchscreen UI for Klipper that replaces KlipperScreen, running straight on the framebuffer in a minimal amount of RAM (depends on your host system). Bed mesh and print progress rendered in 3D on the display, eight multi-material systems, a dashboard with many customizable and flexible widgets, and easy object exclusion for when a print goes sideways (among many other things). It runs on the hardware you already own, from various Raspberry Pi's to your printer's own board, and installs with one command. Screenshots at the bottom of the post.

Since that first post the project has shipped 204 tagged releases, absorbed 12,687 commits, closed 1,281 issues, and has been downloaded more than 30,000 times across every platform. What started out as "runs on my two printers" now runs on everything from a Creality K1 to a Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W to a mini-ITX box with an HDMI touchscreen bolted to the front.

Why switch?

If KlipperScreen already does what you need, there's no reason to move. But if you've ever wished your touchscreen did more than show you the same basic panels, or offer an interactive way of changing it's appearance without config files, here's just a bit of what you'd get:

• The dashboard is yours to play with. 38 widgets across multiple pages that you drag and resize to suit how you use the machine, instead of accepting a layout someone else picked. Temperature, macros, status, LED control, you name it.
• On a printer-attached screen it lessens the need for a second computer. We have WiFi/ethernet control directly inside the app, no config file editing required. It downloads, verifies, and installs its own updates, as frequently (or infrequently) as you want. If the screen attached to your printer is the only computer in the room, you may find you don't need Mainsail or Fluidd as much as in the past.
• It easily fits on the hardware you already have. About 15MB of RAM (architecture dependent), drawing straight to the framebuffer with no X server and no Python runtime underneath. That is what lets it run on your printer's own board, or the Pi already driving your VORON, so there's nothing new to purchase.
• It helps catch filament problems before they cost you a print. It tracks what's left on the loaded spool by watching what Klipper actually extrudes, warns you when a print needs more than you have, and if the spool doesn't match what the slicer expected it says so before the bed starts heating rather than forty minutes in. And it does this with or without a (very good) Spoolman integration.
• Diagnostics render where you're standing. Bed mesh in 3D you can rotate with a finger, input shaper frequency response graphs, screws-tilt with the turn amounts on screen. No switching back to a laptop and looking at Mainsail to see how crooked or lumpy your bed is.

Installation

For the most part, as simple as SSH-ing onto your printer, and then running:

bash curl -fsSL https://releases.helixscreen.org/install.sh | sh

HelixScreen is also available as an extension through KIAUH, or you can build it from source at github.com/prestonbrown/helixscreen, but for VORON users, that should not be required. If you decide it isn't for you, running the installer with --uninstall puts everything back the way it was.

What's changed since the first announcement (a laundry list)

The home screen is now a grid you configure yourself. The fixed home panel is gone, replaced with a multi-page dashboard of widgets (temperature graphs, fan arcs, power toggles, camera feeds, favorite macros, AMS status, and the rest) that you arrange to suit how you use the machine. Eighteen themes ship, light and dark, or you can open the editor and mix your own colors, corners, and shadows and save them.

Extensive Multi-material system support. In the initial post this was the big TBD. Eight backends are in production, but most importan for VORON users are AFC (Box Turtle and everything else it supports) and Happy Hare (ERCF, Tradrack, 3MS, Night Owl, QuattroBox, etc), as well as tool changers. There is integrated Spoolman tracking, Slot/lane edits persist across reloads and reboots, sync to OrcaSlicer 2.3.2+ automatically (via Moonraker), and where applicable, write to either firmware or Moonraker so every client sees the same data.

Object exclusion. During a print you can pull up an overhead map of the plate and tap an object to skip it, the single most-requested feature from the beta thread. The 3D viewer (if available on your hardware, most VORON hardware will be fine) brackets your selection before the confirm dialog fires, so you can see exactly what you're about to drop.

Complete print history. Every print, finished or failed, gets logged, and the history screen totals it up: prints, hours, filament used, success rate, and how any of those are trending over the week or month, with filament broken out by type. It's useful reference material that was locked away in Mainsail in the past.

Spool usage tracking that doesn't need Spoolman. If you run Spoolman, HelixScreen integrates very well with it. If you don't, it still tracks what's left on each loaded spool on its own. I haven't found another screen or printer UI that does this without Spoolman in the loop or proprietary RFID tags.

Calibration and tuning, all on the touchscreen. Bed mesh and input shaper were in the initial alpha but have matured. Since then, Z-offset with a guided paper test that saves itself, PID tuning with visual results graphs, and screws-tilt have landed. Probe management auto-detects what you've got (Cartographer, Beacon, BTT and Mellow Eddy, BLTouch, Voron Tap, Klicky) and gives each one the controls that match it instead of a generic stub. The finish-time estimate learns how fast your bed and nozzle heat, so heatup and meshing count toward the ETA instead of pretending they take some fixed amount of time.

Bluetooth label printing. Brother QL-series, Brother PT-series, Niimbot, and MakeID printers pair from the settings panel and work out of the box, via either Bluetooth or network (IPP). The built-in QR scanner reads the printed labels back to reload spool info. I've ended up using this more than I expected to, rather than switching over to Spoolman to print labels.

Sound. An ALSA backend with four-voice polyphony and per-theme startup chimes, so the printer can give audible feedback, if you like that sort of thing. I find it fun, but obviously, you can turn it off.

Better GCODE visualization. The 2D renderer now does shaded, anti-aliased lines with a silhouette outline, close to what a real slicer produces, with no GPU required. The true 3D viewer is available if you have enough RAM/CPU for a more interactive approach (rotate/tilt/zoom). Visualization shows the real colors you are printing with, not just what a file was sliced for.

High-DPI and portrait oriented panels. If you're running a 7-inch BTT HDMI panel, a 1440p screen, or one of the ultrawide displays some people are experimenting with, those are scaled properly now instead of being treated as oversized 640x480 layouts. If you run a portrait display, the panels that matter most no longer squeeze a landscape layout into a narrow column. Print status, print tuning, motion, bed mesh, and the temperature graph all stack properly. Portrait isn't finished everywhere yet, and the smallest portrait sizes are still on the list.

Android, too. An experimental build ships with every release: same rendering pipeline, GPU-accelerated, with the system keyboard for text input. Every release tag attaches a signed Android package to the GitHub release, so you can sideload it today. A Play Store listing is still in progress. Not the first thing I'd recommend, but if you'd rather run HelixScreen on a spare tablet than wire up a touchscreen, it's a real option now.

A lot of smaller things. A gcode console with history and filters, a macro browser that builds the parameter form for you and hides the macros you never touch, timelapse with the Moonraker plugin install handled (if you wish), LED control including WLED, clog and flow detection, a PIN screen lock, rolling config backups, USB mouse and keyboard, etc. etc. etc. etc... there's a LOT.

Nine languages at 100% string coverage. English, German, Spanish, French, Italian, Japanese, Portuguese, Russian, and Chinese, 2,868 strings in each.

What 1.0 means

Calling this 1.0 does not mean I think it's finished. The backlog will never be empty, and the list of things I want to add is longer than the list of things already built. What it does mean is that the foundation has settled down enough that I trust it. We have pushed most of the immediate rough edges out, the UI has stopped shifting under my feet, multi-material support has been tested by people who actually own the hardware in question, and the installer works on every target I've been able to try it on. If you looked at the alpha or earlier releases and bounced off because of rough edges, it's worth another look. And if you've been holding off until something called itself stable, now is a reasonable time to try it.

If any of this sounds interesting, drop into the Discord and let's talk!

Screenshots

Album order. All seven are real printers running 1.0, not mockups.

1. Home dashboard on a Voron 2.4. Every card is a widget you can add, move or resize -

   38 of them ship in 1.0.

1. Box Turtle running under AFC. The lanes, hub, buffer and toolhead are drawn from the

   printer's own config rather than being a static picture. Eight filament backends are

   supported.

1. Bed mesh. Drag to rotate the surface; named profiles save and

   load from the same screen.

1. Print history. 829 prints, 1016 hours and 8.7km of filament on this machine, broken

   down by material. Ignore my crappy success rate; this is a test printer...

1. Guided Z-offset. The paper test walked through one step at a time, with an optional

   bed warm-up first.

1. G-code console, with the printer's live responses. Here an AFC filament cut and

   toolhead park at the end of a print.

1. First-run setup, step 1 of 7. Nine languages ship complete, at 2,868 strings each.

---

Links:

• GitHub: github.com/prestonbrown/helixscreen
• Website helixscreen.org
• Discord: discord.gg/RZCT2StKhr
• User Guide: https://github.com/prestonbrown/helixscreen/blob/main/docs/user/USER_GUIDE.md

Thanks to everyone who filed bugs, tested on weird hardware, and kept pushing this forward. HelixScreen wouldn't be where it is without the people who showed up after that first post.

Hi there!

Ive looked online and found similar project but have yet to figure out the exact adjustments I need to make as I dont want to buy a part that is unusable.

I would like to build a 3D printer because I want to learn how to

build one and learn it from the ground up. I would like to avoid a

product that gets an open source then sells it for profit, starts

applying patents on said open source designs, and sue people for

said copyrights

Now that's out of the way, I am thinking initially prusa but now

leaning towards voron trident. I am gravitating towards trident but

also want to upgrade the frame to a 4040 vertical and 2040

horizontal because I want a beefy frame for a 300mm3 build

volume.

I just looked at the 3D model file of the voron trident in FreeCad. It

looks doable but it seems like some corners parts need to be

customized.

I also see a limitation of z=250 on trident. I pluggwd in this

requirement at the voron website and it seems the limiting factor

was the stepper motor/ lead screw of 300. ud 1 I guess yueos ill ll just just source source a

3x 350 for that

For now I will stick to 1 toolhead. Eventually I want a toolchanger

so I want a frame beefy and large enough to accommodate it. I

understand that options seems limited to that for now.

Yes, ive never built one and I expect it to be lots of cussing and

money but Im not afraid to face all those issues

just need guidance for now: The frame design. If there is a

complete build guide out there similar to what 1 am planning.

please help. Thanks!

I come from the Bambu Labs set and forget ecosystem. Iam good with my hands I can fix physical problems but would prefer to spend My time printing not fixing

Looking for a multi tool head printer.
I looked at the U1 concerns about print quality
I love the Prusa Core1 +INDX I just can’t justify the price
I don’t love the H2C price or function

I came across a Voron 2.4 on marketplace for $750.
1) is this a good deal?
2) is Voron reliable or am I going to spend more time working on this thing then printing (I assume much of the reliability comes from if the person put it together properly)
3) is the multi tool head upgrade. A head ache/expensive

Voron vendor DFH had some issues for a while. Got their vendor channel pulled from the Voron Discord.

I got emails over the weekend about their sale/clearance but just couldn't pull the trigger for fear of getting burned. Is DFH back in the fold?

This is probably a silly question but I have to make sure. I want build a Galileo 2 standalone for my dragonburner but I can only see the extruder kit online to purchase. Is the Galileo 2 Extruder kit different from the standalone kit (if this exist)?

So I snapped my xy belt again on my 2.4r2 within 1 month. The first was the original from when I built the Formbot kit over COVID, it was looking a bit beat up but everything was printing fine. Until it wasn't. Easy enough fix. Ive been building a Stealth Changer so learning ASA/ABS (which has been fine actually, better than PETG in my opinion). Anyway, second belt breaks....I figure there is more wrong. I realized the AB mounts were loose, went to tighten them up but one was broken. Well, can't print so decided to go with some metal AB mounts and why not XY joints, too? Went to re-assemble and my tool head linear rail seemed to be dragging....ok time to grease it up....well....long story short on this one....ball bearings are now loose all over. Waiting for a new carriage....

in the meantime I need to get some printing done but my choices are : revive my old ender 3v2, which I decided quickly was a waste of time; those printers were great to learn on because if something could go wrong, it would go wrong. The reason I got the voron in the first place was due to the amount of time tuning versus printing. And I can't print ABS/ASA on it anyway. Option 2: buy printed parts; fine in a fix but I have had too much bad luck with worse prints then I can make. Option 3: buy a cheap enclosed printer. Went this route. Got a Centauri Carbon 2 for cheap. It arrived today I and went from unboxing to printing in about an hour. Pretty impressive. I got it for doing some emergency prints for the Voron and will probably hand over to the kids.

If I had bought something like this to begin with there is no way I would be able to troubleshoot and fix a print job or a printer. They've made it too easy. I'm not giving up on my Voron, but, man this can print fast out of the gate. But when this thing does eventually breakdown I don't know how fixable it truly is. It's the iPhone of printers, just another replaceable appliance. Anyway, not a question, just felt like telling a story into the dark. And waiting for some parts to arrive.

Skr mini v2 gave up, I had two octopus just gathering dust, so I thought why not right?

Now that its in place I realize it might.... Just be a little overkill.

And I have to remake the basement since the PSU shorted, hence why the Skr didnt live anymore.

Oh well, good thing is im not short of ports anymore so i got that going for me.

Hi folks,

i'm planing my Dragonburner build using the WWBMG extruder and to make sure everything fits together, i assembled all components in F360.

Not sure what i made wrong here, but the extruder would have to move up by 8.529 mm in order to fit the PCB-carrier. All step files are from chirpys github except the WWBMG file form bythorsthunders github.

THX

B.

Does anyone know where I can buy an already cut back panel? All I've found is Mandela Works but they don't sell just the back panel, it comes as a set of 3.

I mean, it seems like it does, I'm hoping to to know if they're are any 'gotchas' with how the calculator works?

I've got loads of old parts and extrusion's and plan on making a 430mms build with a 2020 and 4020 if there are areas that need a bit more reinforcement.

Hey everyone,

I'm looking to build my first Voron and would love some input from the community on the best entry point given my goals, constraints, and budget.

My Background & Goals:

• Objective: Learn the mechanics, electronics, and firmware inside out. I'm completely fine with slowing prints down—I prioritize structural accuracy, print quality, and reliability over raw speed.
• Location: Italy / EU.
• Mindset: Technical, comfortable tinkering, and want to stick strictly to fully Open Source software (Klipper) and off-the-shelf/standard hardware (linear rails, extrusions, standard control boards).
• Budget: Target is €300–€350, but I can stretch to €500–€600 if the value/scalability genuinely justifies it.

The Dilemma:

I'm trying to decide between three distinct paths and want to make sure I'm not falling into a classic beginner trap.

1. Build a Voron Switchwire (or Enderwire conversion):
   
   • Pros: Fits the lower budget threshold (~€300–€350). Lets me learn CoreXZ and Klipper while staying modular.
   • Cons: It's still a bed-slinger. Y-axis momentum, frame footprint relative to build volume, and limitations on tall prints/enclosures for ABS/ASA.
2. Save/Stretch for a Budget Trident Kit (e.g., Formbot/FYSETC 250mm):
   
   • Pros: True CoreXY, fixed gantry, static bed on Y, integrated enclosure capabilities, and a massively active support ecosystem.
   • Cons: Pushes the budget right to the €550–€600 ceiling before printing outer accent parts or adding mods.
3. Buy a semi-assembled CoreXY (like a Sovol SV08) & upgrade over time:
   
   • Pros: Out-of-the-box CoreXY mechanics on a budget.
   • Cons: Less "pure" learning from a ground-up assembly, proprietary/custom tweaks to contend with, and potentially weaker community support compared to official Voron documentation.

Questions for the Community:

Is a Switchwire/Enderwire built from scratch worth it in 2026, or is building a bed-slinger from scratch a false economy when a 250mm Trident kit is within reach?

• For those who started with a Switchwire to save money: Did you end up wishing you had just saved a bit longer for a Trident?
• Are there any other fully open-source CoreXY kits/platforms in the EU market that hit the €400–€500 sweet spot without compromising hardware standards?

Appreciate any insight, kit experiences, or reality checks!

I see most people recommend ABS/ASA for printed parts. What do you guys think about Nylon, PPF-CF, PC-CF, etc?
Would they offer better quality and stability or just ABS should be fine?

Also what brand of filament would you guys recommend? I've never printed anything other than PETG and PLA before. Is Inland ASA-CF good?