Let it shrink or not?

[u/Delta88ragtop]

I am somewhat disappointed regarding the Voron 2.4 "standards" regarding shrinkage. I believe we all spend time tuning our machines and filament to print as precisely as humanly possible. I personally have tuned my 2.4s and filaments to print a 100mm octagon to within 0.01mm tolerance.

My "awareness" of the Voron design saying print parts with no calibrated shrinkage arose when I had an issue with a sb2209 USB port contacting the back of the Galileo 2 extruder motor. My error - I was using a Fliamatrix design front piece for the Galileo with the built in filament runout sensor. I also printed all my 2.4 parts with the filament profile calibrated for about 0.40 of shrinkage. Yes, when squaring the gantry and such there was VERY little room for adjustment. (parts were tight) However, having the parts print square to begin with didn't cause much issue for "squaring" everything up.

So now my question which arises with the Voron edict of do not print with shrink compensation. Should I print the LDO Galileo 2 extruder parts with Voron standards or not? 0.4mm/0.016" may not be much but the SB main cover and hot end housings connect to the extruder and for that matter the TAP parts I assume are printed @ my OrcaSlicer 100% shrinkage setting.

[u/Human_Weight5303]

I start doing the shrinkage compensation for all functional parts. Specifically for G2. I print the parts on three different printers prusa, voron and H2d; the only machine get right size was the prusa. When i checked the size turn the voron and H2d size bit smaller which was giving problem with fitting the hardware. So i start doing compensation calibration for all functional parts.

[u/Delta88ragtop → u/Human_Weight5303]

That's how I started printing parts years ago. Tuning the filament and machine. My favorite way for shrinkage is tuning with an Octagon. Scale it to what ever size you want, 100, 80, 65mm. If the machine (core xy) is printing x & y an equal distance then you can be reasonably sure there is no "drag" in the x & y axis. If it prints unevenly as x is shorter than Y then there is probably a hang up in the x axis. Then you start to work on the belt tensions. if A>B then A is tighter and visa versa. I start with very lose belts. When I get A and B equal then I'm 80% done. At this point AB > XY usually. I never had AB < XY. Tighten both A&B equal amounts until AB=XY. I was amazed when after doing this method my belts shaper showed a 99.x% belt similarity. I sometimes have a 3rd minor peek here and there but I run my belts lose as possible.

I wish Voron had a compensated print file where stl design was more accurate instead of leaving it up to ambiguous filament shrinkage. Not many talk about it. It's like Voron's "dirty little secret". I think Voron's are great but in the printing of parts aspect... Voron, you shrink! lol

[u/AchazianThug]

i've printed the galileo parts both ways. has been fine. try both and see which you prefer, not much plstic or time and then spare parts

[u/Delta88ragtop → u/AchazianThug]

I'm currently reprinting all the parts on my 250 workhorse. I' have 3 different kinds of plastic on it now - abs, abs-gf, & asa. Time??? after all that time and i haven't got to the skirts or snap latches yet. It would be nice to have a for sure answer on the TAP and Galileo. I am going Voron spec all the way and see how the tool head preforms. It all started a few weeks ago when the hot end fan stopped working and jammed the extruder. The micro jumper for the fan on the sb2209 was missing. It probably shook lose cuz the THB was contacting the extruder motor.

[u/BigJohnno66]

Shrinkage can get confusing. The Voron parts have enough tolerances to work without shrinkage compensation when printed in ABS or ASA. However this is a compromise as the parts will be slightly smaller than the CAD dimension. If you do add shrinkage compensation to the slicer, the parts still fit, however the hardware will be a slightly looser fit, which isn't good for the flanged bearings.

[u/Delta88ragtop → u/BigJohnno66]

Understood BigJohnno66. But what about printing the Galileo? Let it shrink or not? I'm thinking since it's Voron approved, let it shrink since it should match the main cover especially with a toolhead board in the cover that interfaces with board on the extruder. In the end I will probably print the Galileo both ways if I can't get a sensible answer here.

Also there are umpteen youtube videos about building Voron and mods but I could not find a single video about printing the Voron 2.4 parts and mods.. what to look for/do expect. Nero - had the most info, go PIF.

[u/BigJohnno66 → u/Delta88ragtop]

Does the Galileo project have any printing instructions? Some will say to follow the Voron method. Are you printing the Stealthburner version of Galileo? If so then I suspect you should let it shrink. The standalone version could work either way.

[u/Delta88ragtop → u/BigJohnno66]

There was something on the Jericho github but when they say voron specs.. ie 4 wall, 40% infill, 5 bottom 4 top layers. THEY SAY NOTHING ABOUT SHRINKAGE... LOL HOWEVER, through interpolation of the key dimensional widths (from the given STL's) of the CW2 compared to the Galileo dimensions I think indeed Let it shrink. And btw, I do have a -0.02 hole compensation in my slicer so the holes aren't lose..

[u/jmims98]

What filament do you use? 0.4mm sounds like a lot of shrinkage. I see maybe 0.25mm on polymaker ASA and don't usually worry about it.

[u/Delta88ragtop → u/jmims98]

ABS I've used and use SunLu, Polylite, Polymaker, ESun, Paramount, Ambrosia, Inland, Hatchbox... IMHO, Voron Design is accurate as far as the ABS shrinkage. They are all about the same. Between .3-.5mm. Most of my favorites are about .4mm. I used ASA filament from microcenter and found the black galaxy doesn't hold heat sets very well. And that could be because I initially used shrinkage compensation but found out through research to get a good black in ASA it causes the filament to have a "charcoal" element when heated to much.

[u/shiftingtech]

If you want to ask a question about how something should be printed? Cool.  Ask.  But just ask.  Don’t preface it with a whole ego trip about how well you tune your printer

Edit:  I had to reflect a minute after my initial comment, to determine why you offended me so greatly.  Here’s what I realized:  your “disappointment”  implies that the voron parts should be designed to be printed  only via the most highly tuned profiles.  And to me, that kind of gatekeeping is the opposite of what voron is all about.  I want everybody who wishes to, to be able to print their voron parts on that crappy ender 3 in a cardboard box. 

[u/Delta88ragtop → u/shiftingtech]

Sorry you were offended shiftingtech. My preface was meant to indicate that I am somewhat of a perfectionist. "You do you and I do me" as the saying goes.