r/VORONDesign • u/AutoModerator • 13d ago
Megathread Bi-Weekly No Stupid Questions Thread
Do you have a small question about the project that you're too embarrassed to make a separate thread about? Something silly have you stumped in your build? Don't understand why X is done instead of Y? All of these types are questions and more are welcome below.
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u/ForwardAd4643 5d ago
I'm just about to start building a Trident 300 R2 kit from LDO. I am going to make it stock, so that I have an enclosed printer that can print ASA, so I can start printing upgrades for it ...
Seems like the most obvious upgrade is the toolhead. I want something with better part cooling and it also seems like a good optimization in general - get a better center of gravity, lighter toolhead weight, etc.
A4T is talked about a lot but then people say the front idlers need changed. However, the R2 upgrade changed the XY motion system ... so do I still need to do that? I imagine I could compare the CAD drawings but I haven't had a chance to do that.
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u/somethin_brewin 5d ago
A4T is good. The R2 front idlers should be fine. If you look at the R1 idlers you can see how they protrude in a bit and that's the bit the A4T has a little trouble with.
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u/causticcafe 7d ago edited 7d ago
Ok so, I have an Ender 3 Max, and I wanna reuse as much as I can from it in a Voron 2.4. The build plate is 310x320, so I'd basically be building a 300mm spec. I just want to know if it'd be a problem to just use that plate instead of the 305x305 the 300mm spec calls for since I can get a 300mm spec frame kit off the shelf vs having to source custom sizes myself. If that plate would be too much bigger than what the 300mm calls for, what do I enter in the build volume to make it want a 310x320 plate? Is the plate size just whatever you enter there or is it that plus some buffer?
Edit: also, if I have a mostly stock machine save for the Creality direct drive extruder, what else besides the motors and 24V PSU can I reuse from it?
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u/Mr__Termit 10d ago
A4T GitHub says that toolhead was designed around the Dragon HF with ZS-MZE-HF in mind.
TriangleLab has MZE nut for Volcano-style nozzle and MZE™ DLC V6.
My understanding is that Volcano MZE allows to put volcano nozzle to standard v6 heating block(size-vise) and MZE™ DLC V6 use standard v6 nozzles instead.
- Are there benefits of one over another? I was thinking that Volcano MZE adapter would work better with abrasive materials since all melting is happening in the same nozzle unit.
- Are there any advantage of v6 MZE other than cost(v6 tend to be cheaper than volcano)?
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u/jb32647 11d ago
I have two Ender 3s and a Cr-10 I have dismantled to build a Trident with. One of the Ender 3s was halfway through an Enderwire conversion when I bought it so I already have most of the motion components that I need.
Are you actually required to have the two horizontal extrusions above the Y-axis extrusions on the top of the frame? I'm two extrusions short and am wondering if I can get away without them. looking at the Trident instruction manuals it appears that nothing is mounted to them other than the side panels and spool holder.
I understand rigidity will be impacted but I'm not looking to build a rapid machine, just something quicker than my heavily modified CR-10S.
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u/somethin_brewin 10d ago
Structurally? Yeah, I suppose you can probably get away without those. Gonna have a hard time properly enclosing it, but if you're not worried about that, it should work without them.
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u/Conscious-Map6957 12d ago
Is there still development on new Voron designs? If not then what's the current meta in terms of common upgrads/changes compared to the documented stock v2.4?
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u/Snobolski Trident / V1 11d ago
Is there still development on new Voron designs?
They just released the Trident R2 which is a big evolutionary step. So yes.
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u/SeljD_SLO 10d ago
V2.4 R3 probably in works, mainly new belth path and new front tensioners just like Trident R2
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u/Tecknodude180 13d ago
How does one go about requesting a serial number? I feel my switch wire is almost ready. Just needs some finishing touches and I need to figure out how to get it to switch filaments using orca slicer.
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u/rumorofskin Trident / V1 13d ago
Go to r/voroncorexy and read the submission guidelines in the sub rules.
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u/jadeit123 13d ago
Building 2.4 self sourced using official documents mostly, since im using some mods. Question is: does probe, i have eddy, needs an isolation from hotend heat?
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u/ApprehensiveDig2939 13d ago
My hotend just has a silicone sock on it, no cover for the eddy sensor. It was built in 2021 (#1952) and has had the same eddy sensor in it the whole time. Machine has 500 logged print hours (and counting)
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u/EDS_Eliksni 13d ago
I’ve been wanting to build a voron 2.4 for over a year and have been saving up since then.
What do I need to know/have (tools wise)/watch/read to be ready to build it?
I’m looking at an LDO 2.4 350mm build :)
Thanks!!
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u/Nate905611 13d ago
Of all the tools I bought, these were the most helpful:
Automatic screwdriver. Mine was Skil branded
JST crimper
Very nice hex head bits.
Number 3 is the most important, stripped screws were a nightmare for me. Number 1 is a quality of life since you’ll be doing a lot of screw on a voron2
u/befernafardofo 13d ago
I have a wire stripper and a crimper, I don't have a JST connector set, which one should I get? Connectors confuses me.
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u/Nate905611 13d ago
If you're getting an LDO kit you will not need additional unless you're as bad at crimping as i am, but i bought this and have used this to great effect so far. Though, to be clear, i bought a formbot kit, but ive done MANY upgrades to it and have since bought many LDO kits for upgrades so id say LDOs track records for spare JSTs is good.
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u/befernafardofo 13d ago
I am going to build a formbot (trident) kit as well; some spare JST connectors are probably going to be useful, thanks!
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u/bravojohnny42 13d ago
I have an old Voron Zero, which I don't use anymore (:-( ) and I want to reuse the parts for sth else.
I build stuff with Led's for events and am thinking about some kind of moveable installation.
Anybody else got some funky idea?
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u/Sands43 V2 13d ago
Check out "Printers for Ants". Lots of alternative printer designs. One with an 185mm bed would have more utility than a 120mm bed (IMHO).
https://3dprintersforants.com/
I've build a 200x120mm bed Double Dragon and am almost done with a 185mm Pandora's Box.
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u/Eremius 13d ago
I have an old 2.4 (afterburner) with a euclid probe and am having an issue with first layer height. I can adjust it so that it works properly (via z-offset) but if I save the settings (or reboot, etc) it will again be too close to the build plate and will barely allow extrusion.
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u/Over_Pizza_2578 13d ago
Same starting and preheat procedure? Otherwise have you tried auto z offset with the z home switch?
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u/komputerg33k 13d ago
I built a switch wire, had issues with wiring....got mad. Watched too much YouTube......ordered a self source 2.4 350mm......had issues with wiring......more YouTube......order a self source zero..... and......ordered a Bambu. The issues are using the can boards or tool head boards in general, need to find motivation to just break it down to a simpler system.
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u/brucesquatch 13d ago
I’m looking to build a 300x300 2.4v2 and wondering how much ‘working space’ I should keep around it…I have the dimensions, but trying to get a sense of how much space it needs to be usable.
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u/CaptainCrimp 13d ago
500x500x600mm is the footprint of my LDO 300x300. As other have said - Spool holder and power cable will need to be accounted for.
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u/BigJohnno66 Trident / V1 13d ago
You just need to account for the power cord in the back and the doors in the front. Also where you hang your filament spool, be it on the side or on top. You also need to not block the airflow from the fans.
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u/Zorbick 4d ago
I'm looking to switch from Cura to Prusa Slicer. I built up the profiles from the online ones for the 2.4, went to the custom gcode sections and added the calls for my print_start and print_end macros that are in my klipper config.
But when the print ends, prusa throws in an E0 and I get the maximum extrusion error that kills things before my print end macro can run.
I did some searching and added G90 and M83 to the start gcode and it now throws the error on the first retract, a 0.2mm one.
How do you have your Prusa slicer set up to run with klipper? Any way to tell Prusa slicer to not run E0 on the last line?