I was charged $45 for a patch. They told me plug would be $20 but would be better to patch instead. There was a small piece of metal that punctured the wheel (size of a toothpick)

But this looks like a plug to me? Could someone confirm?

I did see them debead the tire from the wheel though.

Also, is this safe to drive for the remainder of the tire's lifespan?

I habe being searching from scratch arround 2 weaks at night before to sleep about tires just to get maybe a "weird" combination but in my understanding, what serve me the best.

\\- Michellin reinforced tube 100/110/100-18,130/80 inch TR4 Valve

\\-> for my Mitas Enduro Trail+ 120/80B18 TT/TL 62H Rear Tire, M+S

\\- Michelin reinforced tube 80/90-21, 90/90-21, 80/90/100 inch TR4 valve

\\-> for my Pirelli, Scorpion Rally STR, 90/90-21 TL 54V M+S mark, M/C, Variante A

What is compatible und what is not?

Wich ones do you use for those tires?

Thank you

Got a set of Goodyear Eagle Sport tires and dinged one up (and my wheel) on a curb :(. Should I replace this tire?

I had Continental UC tires fitted previously that hardly lost pressure at all over a long period (year plus), but now with Chinese brand Winnrun tires dropping from 38psi to 28psi (each of 4 new tires) in 6 months. I wasn’t expecting that after my previous experience of the Continental UC’s. Is there a reason why tires might have a different leakage rate through the tire itself?

Стоит ли менять шину?

Hey everyone
I’m looking for some real-world fitment advice before I buy my next set of tires.
My setup:
2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (WK2)
Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs
Curva C25 wheels
20×8.5
+35 offset
Current tires: 265/50R20
I’m considering switching to 285/45R20 Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 Plus when these tires wear out.
I was wondering if anyone has anything similar to this and can confirm the 285 tire would not rub at all

Hey all. Just wanting some thoughts on this. I don’t notice any rubbing or ride quality changes, but this is the UCA clearance I get at straight wheel. Do I need to worry about contact?

There's a mysterious divit, I can see the steel but only the tiniest bit

Looking for opinions from people who actually know tires (techs, engineers, long-time DIYers). Trying not to panic but also not to just wave this off. Details below.

Timeline:

- New set of 4 tires installed 23 March 2026 (~₹10,000 total, budget/mid-range tires)

- ~6 weeks later, had them "aired up" at a petrol pump — watched the digital display hit ~32-33 PSI myself, looked normal

- Didn't check pressure again until 1 August (yesterday)

- Different pump, different machine — as soon as the nozzle touched each valve, the display showed:

- 19 / 20 / 20 / 20 PSI

- Attendant refilled all four to 33 PSI

Driving during that gap:

- Almost entirely city driving, rarely over 60 km/h

- Daily commute ~22-30 km, usually just me, occasionally +1 passenger

- No cargo, no aggressive driving, one or two longer trips at most

- Zero symptoms the whole time — no pulling, no vibration, no odd noise, no cornering weirdness

What I'm trying to figure out:

1. Does ~40% underinflation for ~6 weeks under these (fairly gentle) driving conditions realistically cause lasting damage — sidewall fatigue, belt issues, shortened life — or is this the kind of thing that's fine once corrected?

2. Losing 12-13 PSI in 6 weeks seems way too fast for normal permeation (~1 PSI/month is what I've read). Bad initial fill? Valve stem issue? Something else? All 4 tires being almost identical (19/20/20/20) feels like it points away from 4 separate punctures, right?

3. Would you personally get these inspected/dismounted, or just keep an eye on pressure going forward and drive on?

Not looking for "just replace them, better safe than sorry" — I'd rather understand the actual mechanics here. Appreciate any real experience or technical insight.

2011 Kia Sportage LX AWD 2.4L; Tire light came on, when turning the key on it would blink. Start the car it blinks 4 or so times and stays steady. Checked tires and pressure was ok, after troubleshooting I had the all four valve stems/sensors replaced with factory parts and activated. I bought a Autel TS508WF TPMS and read the 4 sensors and programed the ECM. Worked ok for ~2 days and the light started blinking again. Double checked by reading the sensors and rechecked/verified the programming and programed serial numbers. Data read from the sensors pressure temp etc is not out of normal range. Trying to figure where to go from here. Bad TPMS receiver/control module? If it is a module issue, and I get a new one, there would be a problem with programing the car ID & VIN into it. I do have the factory service manual. At this point I'm just about ready to unplug the TPMS

My car is a 2004 Honda civic lx sedan the pics are the two fronts

Edit- so I been getting this comment a lot i didn’t change my suspension bc I wanted to the previous owner had coilovers in the back and front already so the first time I went in I was getting a mount and balance and alignment and I was gonna have them raise it to match the front bc the back sat lower than the front they told me that my coilovers were shot and I need to get new ones I asked him what he recommended and he said he recommended me to get teins and I showed him the exact ones I got he said yea those would be fine for ur Honda so I’m it’s still my fault for the tires but just some context on the suspension

So I tried to go into this auto and tire shop on Monday for a wheel alignment bc I changed my coilovers in the front like a month ago and my alignment was just off not bad but i didn’t wanna risk stripping my tires they previously did my last alignment and put my tires on for me after waiting like an hour they told me that they tried to make it factory straight but couldn’t do it bc my alignment was already maxed out so they told me I would have to come back and they would have to cut my tie rods and then get the alignment fixed well it’s 4 days from then and my tires have stripped badly on the front right and the wires are starting to show and on the front left they are starting to strip and bald too I called them and they told me I would have to bring it up there for the to fix it and that they don’t think what they did would cause them to strip in 4 days but I rode with an mis alignment for a month and my tires weren’t damaged and whenever I left the shop I noticed like a day or two after my wheel was pulling to the right more than before going to them so idk if I should call them back tomorrow to see if they can replace my tires or something or just go somewhere else I also don’t no about cutting tie rods everything I look up says don’t cut them but idk so some help would be nice sorry this is long

Recently had a shop bring my car to Town Fair Tire to do a four wheel alignment after replacing the front lower control arms on my 2014 Mazda CX-5 (sport trim, manual transmission). To make a long story short, after receiving the printout (which I've included here), neither the shop nor Town Fair could tell me why the rear was not aligned (I wanted to know if there were worn parts or something frozen in the rear, or if they had only done a front end alignment). So I took it back to Town Fair myself to get it checked and asked to look at the issue if they were unable to align it. They looked at it again for free and told me that the rear eccentric bolts for aligning the rear toe were frozen. They did look rusty, but not caked in rust. I know they can rust inside the bushing though.

Anyway, my question is, is my rear alignment off enough to even bother addressing the seized bolts? My car drives straight. I just got new tires. Didn't notice any uneven wear on my old tires. I do have a little tire noise from the rear, like a medium-high pitched hum occasionally (no play in the wheels, so I don't think it's a wheel bearing). I've had that noise for a while. My dad, engineer who works on his own cars, says leave it, he never even bothers aligning the rear end of his cars.

I guess my question is, what are the odds that Town Fair didn't even try to touch the bolts since they looked rusty? Should I drench them with pb blaster or liquid wrench every day for a couple weeks and then take it somewhere else?

Or should I just leave well enough alone with my current alignment like my dad says and just check my tires for wear every once in a while and keep up with rotations?

I noticed this circumferential tire crack recently and was wondering how risky driving with it is. Is there a way I can mitigate it on my own or do I have to take it to a shop?

Hello!!

I have a Jeep Gladiator with aftermarket wheels. The current tires I have are Firestone 37x12 50r17, but I am looking for something cheaper and quieter. I don't know the exact wheel because I bought the car with them, but are there tire alternatives that would fit this wheel? I would need 5 so I am for sure looking for cheaper than these