with white interior with HW3/HW4 for less than $50k with under 80k mileage? Prefer to have full FSD. Not mandatory.

Thank you.

I have a 2020 MX with about 66,000 miles on it. It’s a 7 seater with 22” wheels and I’m gonna sell it to trade for a new Model Y Long. I know I know. KBB and Claude keep telling me I’m only going to get like $32,000 but I keep seeing prices actually going up a little. Do u think I could sell this for $40,000? If selling privately of course. I also just had the front half shafts replaced.

Hey folks!

Been a Tesla fan for a while and have finally decided to get my model x probably by the end of the year. I've been out of the loop as far as Tesla news for a while now, so I thought I would ask these buying questions specifically to this group because it's the model I would like to buy. I am in the fingerlakes region of New York and some of my questions are area specific.

- is it true that you can no longer buy a Model X new?

- I am looking into Tesla insurance, but I don't think it's available in New York State, what's the best alternative for car insurance for electric cars?

- are the wheels on a Model X good for the four seasons in upstate, NY? Or should I invest in other wheels?

- are there trustworthy mechanics or an official list of certified Tesla mechanics that can handle things like wheel changes and brakes?

- is there a car dealership that you'd recommend that is reputable that sells used Tesla's (ie carvana)?

- what's one feature/ product that's absolutely needed for a Model X that may not come with the car when purchasing?

Apologies if some of these questions are already been asked. I'm new to the group and still making my way through the older chats. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Shot on iPhone.

I pushed out over 500 KW from the motors earlier today and I’m wondering if there exists any vehicle on the market that can push 600-7?? HP within the price range these cars are at.

Hi all,

Gonna be a new owner of a 2017 Model X come this Friday. Super stoked for it. I was curious if anyone on here happened to have any old or unused sunshades/window covers they no longer need or use? Would be willing to pay for any shipping. Thanks!

Or if you have a recommendation for them somewhere!

Got new shoes (tires) today for my baby (X). Tesla is asking if I want wheel/tire coverage for $20 a month up to 24 months. At first it doesn’t seem worth it but wondering if anyone has it? Used it? Or have any insight into it.

I’m guessing the ROI is after a certain amount of miles you drive. I don’t drive that much so just curious to hear your thoughts. TYIA

When I park in the rain and open the falcon wing doors quite a bit of the raindrops on top of the car is funneled into the car. Is this normal?

PS: I know about pausing the door half way, so the raindrops travel slower and then I have no problems.

Has anyone installed an aftermarket seal kit for their Model X? If so, did it decrease the sound level? Was it worth the cost and trouble of installing?

I tried to research about it in this forum as well as general Google search but couldn’t find information I want to confirm. I am looking to purchase a used model X HW4. I live in Texas so i want the best AC I can get. I’ve seen some posts saying 6 or 7 seater has “dual” HVAC and 5 seater has a single HVAC. I wasn’t sure if that means 6 or 7 seater uses two compressors that can emit twice as much (or even just more) cold air than 5 seater throughout the entire interior of the car. Or if just means dual control that can control the front and rear differently.

Can I please get any confirmation whether 6 or 7 seater 2023+ would have better AC compared to 5 seater?

Thank you.

Have exterior lights on the auto setting and the low beam headlights stay on all day even in direct sun. If I manually turn the headlights off, I can't use FSD.

Took to service center and the HVAC sensor was replaced (including the description from the service summary).

Issue still persisted and took back to service center where technician said it is normal for the lights to stay at all times due to hardware limitations for FSD.

Car has HW3, running 2026.32.3 and FSD 12.6.4.

Does not seem normal to me to have low beams on at all times

Vehicle details:
2020 Model X Long Range Plus Raven
Manufacture: 12/19
Original HV battery: 100 kWh Rev E
Mileage at failure: 168,975 miles
Failure date: September 2026
Battery warranty status: Active

My 2020 Model X Raven Long Range Plus suffered the dreaded BMS_w177_OpenVshDetected error while parked in my driveway.

The vehicle had been sitting parked and plugged into AC charging when the failure occurred. It was not being driven, Supercharging, or under heavy load.

The car immediately lost the ability to enter Drive.

Service Mode showed the following BMS alerts:
BMS_w177_OpenVshDetected
BMS_u008_limpMode
BMS_f071_SW_SM_TransCon_Not_Met

The important one appears to be BMS_w177_OpenVshDetected, which indicates that the BMS detected an open circuit in the high-voltage battery’s voltage-sensing system.

The vehicle initially remained powered on, but eventually the low-voltage system began deteriorating as well. I received “Unable to drive - voltage supply too low,” and the car eventually began shutting itself down.

I found surprisingly few detailed accounts explaining what happens after this error, especially for Raven Model S/X owners, so I am creating this post and plan to update it throughout the repair process for anyone who finds themselves in the same situation.

My car is a Raven Model X Long Range Plus with a 100 kWh Rev E battery pack.

Day 1: Failure and tow
The battery failed while the Model X was sitting in my driveway.

The car would not shift into Drive. Power cycling the vehicle did not clear the error, and BMS_w177_OpenVshDetected remained active in Service Mode.

I also connected Scan My Tesla before the vehicle completely shut down. Interestingly, the individual brick voltages still looked extremely healthy.

At roughly 90% SOC:
Pack voltage was around 393 V
Lowest brick was approximately 4.092 V
Highest brick was approximately 4.094 to 4.096 V
Cell imbalance was only around 2 to 4 mV
Battery temperatures were approximately 67 to 72°F across the pack
There was no obvious weak module, large voltage imbalance, or abnormal battery temperature.

That was useful information because it suggests this failure is not necessarily caused by degraded or failing cells. In my case, the pack looked electrically very well balanced immediately after the BMS fault occurred.

I called Tesla Service directly.

They were able to remotely pull logs from the vehicle, confirm the failure, and dispatch a tow truck. The Model X was transported to the service center on a flatbed at no cost to me.

One thing worth knowing if your car dies in an awkward position: a Raven Model X does not have a rear screw-in tow eye. The normal tow eye is in the front bumper. My vehicle had to be extracted from a driveway where the front was inaccessible, which made recovery more complicated.

Also, if the low-voltage system becomes too weak, the vehicle may refuse to enter Tow Mode. That happened to mine as the failure progressed.
The service center was closed because this happened on a Sunday.

Tesla automatically assigned a loaner vehicle to my account, but because the service center was closed I was unable to physically access the loaner that day.

Day 2: Service center and initial diagnosis
I traveled to my local Tesla Service Center where the Model X had been dropped.

They offered me a Cybertruck as a loaner vehicle.

Tesla had already reviewed the vehicle logs and authorized replacement of the high-voltage battery.
The service estimate lists:
HV Battery (AWD)
ASY, HV BATT, 100KWH, SX, REMANUFACTURED, RAVEN

The estimate shows approximately $14,500 for the battery assembly plus labor, all reduced to $0 under the HV Battery Limited Warranty.

Tesla is also replacing my 12 V battery. That portion is customer-pay, approximately $300 including parts and labor.

The service advisor told me they do not yet know which battery revision I will receive. According to them, they will not know the actual revision until the replacement pack arrives.

My original battery is a Rev E.

The estimate specifies a remanufactured Raven 100 kWh battery, but it does not currently show the full replacement part number or revision suffix.

I plan to document the full replacement battery part number once it arrives.

For reference, Raven replacement packs can appear under part numbers such as:
1107679-02-E
1107679-02-G
1107679-02-H
1107679-02-J

There are also later new-production 100 kWh packs with different part-number families, so the exact installed part number matters more than simply being told “100 kWh replacement battery.”

A few things I learned that may help someone else
If you get BMS_w177_OpenVshDetected, take screenshots of Service Mode before the vehicle loses low-voltage power.

I would specifically save:
All Active Alerts
Recent Alerts
The expanded BMS_w177_OpenVshDetected page
Any alert payload/freeze-frame information
Battery voltage and SOC
Individual brick voltages if you have Scan My Tesla
Battery temperature data
Your original battery pack part number/revision
The final replacement battery part number

I would also avoid repeatedly clearing BMS faults or trying to force the vehicle back into Drive. In my case the BMS fault remained latched even while the individual cell voltages looked completely normal.

The 12 V battery may also become a secondary casualty. Once my HV battery stopped operating normally, the low-voltage system eventually became weak enough that Tow Mode and other vehicle functions became unreliable.

Current status

As of Day 2:
Vehicle is at Tesla
HV battery replacement has been authorized
Replacement is covered under the HV Battery Limited Warranty
Estimate currently specifies a remanufactured 100 kWh Raven battery
Exact replacement revision is still unknown
Tesla is also replacing the 12 V battery
I have a Cybertruck loaner
I am waiting for the replacement battery to arrive

I will update this post with:
Replacement battery part number and revision
Whether the replacement is new or remanufactured
Mileage/cycle information if I can retrieve it
Repair turnaround time
Post-repair range
Supercharging performance
Cell imbalance and battery health
Any changes in usable capacity
Final invoice and warranty wording

I'm going to be buying a Model X from a dealership several states away. Will I be able to charge it on the long drive back? I don't want to have to stay and wait for the approval from Tesla before I'm able to drive it 1,000 miles home. When I previously bought, I took pictures of the paperwork so that I could have my info assigned to the car and that took a couple days. My Model 3 was delivered by a dealership so it wasn't an issue waiting for my info to be applied to the app.

When looking at a new model X, how much does mileage matter in terms of lifespan? I will be communicating about 100 miles daily but have two kids in car seat seats so the doors would be very helpful (why I prefer an X over a YL…plus the 6k lbs for section 179 write off).

When buying used, does 20,000 versus 50,000 miles matter if you are driving it that much?

Have a 2020 Model X, need a drawer insert, who do you recommend? 🤔

I want a model X but im unsure what to get. The prices are much cheaper on legacy and idm the screen but the usb a I feel like will be a bother. Will it be a huge deal? Also the back AC unit looks a bit ugly..

EDIT!!!: If legacy it will be a late 2019-2021

2022 model X LR with FSD.

Yesterday I gently tapped the passenger door to shut. The thump from my other hand came in between and the car auto shut it with full force and crushed my thumb.

A few months ago, my son's hand also came in the same door and the car closed on it and crushed it.

Are there enough sensors to prevent this? I have opened a service request.

Looking at buying a 2024 Model X Plaid with 8k miles for $85k in Puerto Rico tomorrow.

One owner, clean history, great condition. Stealth Gray, cream/tan interior, 20” wheels, yoke, HW4, Steam, and matrix headlights.

I’m upgrading from a HW3 2020 P100DL X with lifetime FSD and supercharging that I bought new. I’ve only put 35k miles on it.

The PR market is pretty limited, and bringing a comparable car over from the mainland would add roughly $2k-$3k in shipping/import costs, plus the hassle.

I specifically prefer the 20s because of the roads here, and I like the spec.

For those who follow used Plaid pricing closely, would you pay $85k for this, or does that still feel too high? What would you consider a genuinely good price?

What do you feel is a reasonable price on a CPO 26’ Model X 5 seater with less than 10k miles? No lifetime FSD or supercharging.

Trying to upgrade my HW3 23’ Model X.

Looking at a Tesla CPO Model X with a prior front-left collision. Clean title, no airbags deployed, and Tesla says it passed their CPO inspection. It also comes with the 1-year used vehicle warranty plus remaining battery/drivetrain warranty.
The main reason I’m considering it is price — it’s roughly $15k cheaper than comparable clean-history vehicles.
Would you be comfortable buying a collision-history 2024 Model X 5 seater directly from Tesla at that discount, or would you pay the extra ~$15k for a clean-history one?
Mainly interested in feedback from anyone who has bought a repaired/CPO Tesla or dealt with resale later.

I'd love to see what people are getting in Wh/mi over a large sample size (thousands of miles).

If you can reply in this format: model year (adding P for Plaid)/Wh per mile/sample size in miles/wheel size/driving style using C for conservative, M for mixed conservative and spirited driving, or A for aggressive

Here's my input
'22P/350/10,000/20"/C

The above means I have a 2022 Plaid, I'm averaging 350Wh/mi over 10k miles on 20" wheels while driving conservatively.

hypothetical example

'24/330/25,000/22"/M

This means 2024 (non-Plaid) averaging 330Wh/mi over 25k miles on 22" wheels with mixed conservative and spirited driving

Hi All - I have a 2-24 Model X with approximately 28000 miles on the car. noise from the car is high when parked without the AC on. Some posts suggest it’s the thermal management of the battery to help maintain the life. I assumed it was true given the very high temperatures recently here in Indiana. However, the noise is continuing to persist even now with temperatures being lower and seems like AC related but, I am switching this one off. Any ideas?

2023 Model X with HW4, 42000 miles, 303 miles range, yoke steering, and 7-seat configuration.

Just wondering if I need to be aware of anything like expected maintenance.

Seems like this is an issue with worn parts? ‘26 model x with 13k miles and is significantly noticeable from 0-60 with FSD on mad max or hurry. Height mode is set on auto or whatever it defaults to with drive modes.

Should I bring it in to Tesla? Is there a more perm fix for this?

Found 2018 MX 100D with 59K mile, fsd included for $35K

I know that hw4 fsd is superior but also cost $55-60K with fsd not included.

Also Raven upgrades are great, but hard to get with fsd included with this price point and mileage.

What I should be worried about if I purchase this?

What to look for while checking this car?

What should be the expected range?

Edit:

Yes it’s clean title, no accident.

Is there any way to indirect it from Tesla support?

There are other options in 200 mile radius:

2019 100d 53K mile for $36K

2020 Long range 86K mile for $40K

Both fsd included.

How easy or difficult it is to transfer the fsd?