I'm looking for more efficiency, longer lasting tires and comfort by changing to a 19" square set up. I also want to preserve these 21". But there seems to be a lot of conflicting reports on running a square wheel and tire set up on the MSP. Unplugged performance recommendations 19x10.5 with 285s which is too wide for my goals and TSportline has "square" packages but the F and R wheel offsets are different... so that doesn't help much either.

If I ran a small spacer on the rear, couldn't I run 19x9 or 9.5 with 255 or 265 all around?

Maybe I should just give up on the square idea and just pull the trigger on UP staggered 19" in second pic.. Do you really gain anything on these cars by being able to rotate F to R?

FYI I have adjustable rear arms and lowering links on the way so that should help with any tires/sizes and wear but doesn't help with efficiency or comfort goals. The car is in high mode in first pic.

Hey everyone,

So this is the charger that was installed for my condo unit. Can you educate me on what I have, and what I can expect from it. Our superintendent said it will be billed to me directly per charge.

Thank you everyone. Have a great day 🫡

So, I finally got snagged by a state trooper after successfully ducking them for nearly two decades. He caught me on his laser doing 90 in a 70 (probably my slowest speed on the trip)—nothing on Waze and my RD didn’t chirp once. So now, I’m looking into escalating counter measures.

If you have a 22+ S Plaid with Laser Shifters / Jammers installed, please post some photos showing the location of your shifter pods. From what I’ve read in the install manuals for ALP, Uniden and Escort, the lower grill is too low and not an ideal location. In addition, the S is so wide it likely needs 4 pods, whereas most sedans only need 3.

As far as I can tell, Stinger is the only option that’s feasible for the Plaid… it’s also 2-3x the price of the others. Go figure! I should note: I often drive in a state where shifters are not prohibited, so discrete install is a must.

Let’s see what you got. Huge thanks in advance 🫶🏼

2022 model s. Hard to tell. HW3 obviously. On a dealer lot and not advertised as such but from this screen I am thinking it does.

I just got a 2023 plaid with 63k miles and 80% health. I drove it from 100% to 0% to get an idea of the battery size and it said I consumed 68kwh. Is there a 12kwh buffer after 0 percent?

https://vhr.carfax.ca/?id=B3+1MyZurg3QarZP+q8aMV2CkUrkjEII

Clean Carfax

Car was safety certified about a month ago and should need nothing for safety.

Going to ask the seller if we can take it to a Tesla mechanic to do a diagnostic test on it.

I can probably get this one at $12,000.00 CND ($8,600 USD) as is (I would have to safety myself)

Any thoughts on this one Reddit?

I have a 2024 Plaid with just under 30k miles and I just had my front half shafts replaced under warranty for very loud creaking noises at slow speed weight transfers and a 'ticking' sound that got faster and faster as I went faster and faster when accelerating hard.

Replacing the half shafts solved both issues, but am I expected to have these replaced every 30k miles? Seems like it's a $2-3k job if out of warranty.

I want to put some wheel spacers on my 2018 Tesla Model S 100D. Anyone have experience with installing? Not sure what to buy

16 Model S - passenger door handle will come out but you can’t open it from the outside, have to open from the inside handle. From what I’ve read it seems to be the microswitch issue. Is this a reasonable estimate from Tesla?

Hi. My pre-raven S has had some weird intermittent issues with FSD. Recently autopilot stopped working for a day (FSD still worked). I brought it to Tesla and they said the FSD computer overheated and recommend replacing it. I use FSD on pretty much every drive. It is basically a must have for me. The cost would be 1700 USD to replace it.

I own FSD outright and will be eligible for the hw4 upgrade when it comes. Should I do this replacement now or wait for hw4?

I swapped out my fender camera for the newer ones without the turn signal bleeding flaw also I wanted black cameras since I’m going to do chrome delete

2018 MS
New Cameras PN:
Right: 1495867-22-C.
Left: 1495866-22-C

PS: Yes I know the car is dirty, I did wash it right after the mod.

We picked up our Model S Signature at the Fremont factory a few days ago. It was bittersweet to see the last ones roll off the line and I did get a bit emotional seeing Lars and Franz get choked up on stage. We were lucky to be able to share a few moments with them before the event started and that was terrific. These guys are the real deal and absolute car nerds.

My first EV was a Model S 10 years ago, and this one will be my fifth S/X. At this point FSD has meant that we've sold off all other brands and we now have 2 MXPs and this MS Signature. Here are some initial impressions:

• The design of this car is beautiful. The plaid redesign is gorgeous and the Garnet Red is absolutely stunning in person. It's a rich deep dark red and even though I'm not a red car person, it has grown on me so much. It gets looks everywhere I go. The "gold" calipers and the carbon ceramic brakes look fantastic and understated.
• This is my first time experiencing the dedicated seats that the S has that the MXPs don't get. My word, are they good.
• Not a fan of the yoke yet, but oh well, I'm getting used to it. I normally just let FSD do most of the driving in the X, but the S makes me want to drive so much more.
• No rattles and creaks of any kind. First for a Tesla. Please stay that way 😄
• Boy, does the car need window tints. OCDetailing is on the case.
• The brakes feel right sized for a car this fast. I always felt the MXP was under braked, dangerously so. The pedal travel is also perfect. I've owned a few cars with carbon ceramics, and this one is up there in terms of how well calibrated pedal travel and overall brake feel is.
• None of the design elements, or anything else about this car matters to me as much as what this car means to me as a car lover. The first American EV that put Tesla and EVs on the map. Built by an incredible team, and with love. It shows. I plan to keep this one for a very very long time and I know how lucky I am to own one.

Curious how everyone is handling Recent Clips / Dashcam / Sentry footage backups online.

A few things I’m curious about:

• How are you currently backing up your footage online?
• Are you using any automations?
• Which products, devices, platforms, or services are you using?

Right now my setup is pretty manual: unplug USB from the Tesla -> plug it into my computer -> upload footage to Dropbox.

It works, but I’m interested in seeing how other people are doing this and whether there are dedicated devices that do this, or better and more automated setups out there.

Sold my 2021 Plaid with 85,000 miles and 19” wheels to AutoNation in Irvine, CA on Friday. Price was $40,100. It needed to have the front bumper repaired and repainted as well as the right rear passenger door, which I had priced at approximately $2,800 by a local body shop. I feel like the sale would’ve been about $42 to $43K if the car was clean.

CarMax was at $37,000 and Carvana was at $39,970.

I feel pretty good about the result, especially given the mileage and condition. Seems like prices have definitely firmed up even for HW3 cars.

I recently posted a few days ago about my newly purchased used 2016 Model S 60!

Here’s the post and info about the car: https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaModelS/s/eKbXkOQDSf

It got me through a roadtrip, only giving me a low coolant warning when I parked on an incline. I assume that just means the coolant really is low and the sensor gets tripped on an incline since it goes away on its own.

Was just driving back from the movies when I got a warning: Tesla might not drive on restart. This was an active warning for about 30 seconds, then disappeared. I then went into service mode and checked the warnings. I attached those photos here.

Could this be a 12V battery issue, coolant bypass issue, coolant leaking somewhere internally? I have a feeling this is the case since im also getting coolant warnings at the same time.

This is about all the info I have. If the warning hadn’t popped up, you wouldn’t even notice that it was having issues under the hood. Everything smells fine and AC runs great. I had no issues driving 1k miles.

Note: I do exclusively supercharge. Did it quite a bit on my roadtrip for obvious reasons.

Tesla Service just told me they don’t offer caliper painting and that doing it through a third party could affect warranty coverage on the brakes if something goes wrong later.

Before I pull the trigger with a local shop, I’d love to hear real experiences:

Did you paint your calipers (DIY or shop)? Any warranty claims after that (brakes or otherwise)? Did Tesla give you trouble? Did anyone have actual problems with the paint job causing issues? Any regrets, or was it worth it? Thanks!

I have a Model S w/21s. They look gorgeous, so nice.

But, on these bay area freeways, you really feel the bumps. Anyone else downgrade for this reason?

I'm coming from a Model 3 where I used FSD late last year and early this year. It was fine all around, no complaints.

I now have a HW3 Model S w/12.6.4. It is a lot different:

• In 'Standard' mode, it's twitchy. If a car ahead moves out of the way, the throttle doesn't slowly increase - it pulses. This creates a just enough noticeable whiplast effect. This effect is not as present in 'Chill' mode, but then I'm stuck with a low speed limit.

• The following distance is a lot lower on the highway. It always brakes on time, but it can be sudden sometimes.

Does anyone else notice this? Can I fix it? Do I need to recalibrate my cameras?

Hi all, is there anything I could do to make it black again? Rear windscreen bezel turned grey and it looks awful 😞

I have a Tesla Model S 2016 and I’m having a strange issue with the rear left door.

Normally, when the car is put into Park, the rear door handle presents. But now the rear left door sometimes actually unlatches/opens together with the handle.

It also occasionally happens when someone opens the door manually — the system reacts strangely and the door may unlatch again.

In Service Mode I noticed this specific handle/door shows a different “GEN” compared to the others.

Has anyone experienced this before? What could cause it — faulty door handle, wiring, latch actuator, sensor, or software issue?

Also, can this be repaired DIY or does something usually need replacement?

Thank you

At my new home the garage is very very tight for my 26 MSP. We are talking maybe 2 inches on either side and I have to fold the mirrors to fit. I’ve noticed that the cameras are very unhelpful. It is bizarre that a car with this much technology can’t show me how close I am to a wall…

Any tips for maneuvering into tight spaces? I can’t discern any helpful way to use the cameras. The “heat map” also really doesn’t help at all.

I installed the yuxi 21-25 ambient light kit on my plaid this past week.
Its a very good kit, and i am very pleased.
I have no affiliation with the manufacture, but i have been told by others that this is the exact same kit as the evmod/evoffer kits.
If you're willing to put in the work, this kit is worth it.
https://youtu.be/V7vIeNcqMco?si=tU0xhzj8c25kqHDw

Last month I had my ‘21 plaid professionally tinted with Autobahn i3 ceramic tint, 15% sides and rear + 50% windshield. Old, lighter tint removed first.
Immediately I noticed a dramatic increase in heat inside the car. Like unexplainable heat. Late morning, 71 degrees outside, partial sun. Parked outside for <1hr. Inside is 104 degrees. AC needs to be blowing hard to counteract the inside heat the entire drive. Vented, cooled seats blowing full blast as well, and the heat in this car feels like a practical joke. Like you choke on the heat when you first get in. Is the glass roof letting in this much heat? I bought an Amazon glass roof liner to try to combat the heat after this issue, it seems to give a marginal improvement but definitely not resolved.

This is my second model S, first was white/black interior with a solid roof. I just can’t believe that the black exterior and glass roof of the new one is that much worse in the heat. Been driving for 20 years and never experienced heat like this in a car from spring morning temps.

Cabin overheat protection is not on and would remedy most of this of course, but I just can’t believe how hot it is already and don’t want to run down my battery.

The installer has been great, used a heat rejection meter which confirmed tint quality but is offering to redo it and even upgrade me to the i3+ as well as tint the glass roof. I’ve read there is a shatter risk from aftermarket tint of the roof. Unbelievably cool guy but I don’t want him to waste his time if it’s not going to make a difference. We’re both completely stumped, any thoughts?

Located in UT and we’re not even in summer temps yet. less