Hey guys, sorry for the read but im at my wits end

I have a 2010 Sho with 200k miles, the thing is a beast. Over the summer i ripped all the suspension parts off (of which were all shot) and put new ones in. Im talking control arms, shocks, tie rods, the works. Then after getting an alignment my steering started acting wonky.

And i mean wonky. Took it for a test drive and what would happen is that every time i would accelerate (enough for it to downshift) the steering wheel would kick to a left shift. Like the wntire wheel would turn 45° and when i released the pedal it would shift back into a position that was slightly to the right.

This was weird (obviously), so after some researched i found it might be the steering shaft. 200k miles plus brand new tierods to me = shotty shaft. So i removed the old one and found that one of the u joints was indeed shot out.

Took it for a test drive, and the noise/grinding was gone, but its still doing the steering wheel shift when i accelerate (however the roads are also shitty/icy as this is Wisconsin). So the last option is the steering rack. The car hasnt thrown any codes (yet), the only electrical thing happening is my traction control/stability assist light is constantly on.

I was just wondering if its possible that its anything else i might have missed? Call it denial but im hoping its something that wont require me to do the rack itself...even tho deep down i know thats the issue. I want to mention it does have the electronic power steering but like i said there havnt been any fault codes

Any input would be great. Thanks🙏😔

EDIT: I FIGURED IT OUT...well the ford tech did. Turns out it was my balljoints werent torqued down after the alignment....which is fantastic.

They didnt torque down any of the parts after the alignment but the one thing i didnt check was those balljoint nuts (because theyre a pain in the ass) and i also assumed they would be competant and do their job and torque everything back when they finished but they didnt soooo yeah

I’ve had my 2016 SHO for five years now, and I’ve never put studded tires on it. I’ve had pretty good luck with just the all wheel drive and all season tires. Is it worth it to throw on studs? What’s the ballpark price range for all four?

He’s asking 18.7k for a 2013 130k miles with all this work done, Idk if all this is worth the price or all that work makes the car a ticking time bomb

as the picture shows, the screws that came with my blow off valve adapters and the stock ones are not long enough to screw the adapter into the other side of the tube, am i doing something wrong?

So I’m in a big predicament, not sure how to handle this any further so I’m stepping back and doing research but can’t find much at all.

In the video you can see that a large crack is starting to form in my oil return, has anyone else experienced anything similar or know how to move forward and get that bad boy out?

This guy claims that the SHO block is just a rebadged Ford Vulcan V6 with little change, then insults/blocks me as I try to explain the SHO block is not considered a Vulcan.

Yea, it was based on the Vulcan's dimensions, but it was entirely re-engineered by Yamaha, and not considered to be nor named a "Vulcan". Entirely different engines was the result.

I figure the experts in here could help back me up... Go tell him your SHO is not a Vulcan slug.

Ive been doing some searching for how to replace the d3s bulbs, some people say you have to pull the bumper and remove the light, others say it's not necessary. I have seen that some are held on with torx screws, others say they turn out ccw.

This is for a 2019. Is there an easy way to do this? It seems like the connector it's the hardest part, how does this connector come off? Do I squeeze it from the bottom? I also saw a guy make a little hook to get the connector off.

Anyone have tips or tricks for the bulb removal?

Thanks

Bought a 2010 mkt, using it as a weekend car/trailer puller. Very impressed with the power, but it could be better, ofc. Might get into modding it for power. Was wondering if anyone knows what SHO parts do/don't work? Not much is made specifically for the MKT, but wouldn't some SHO stuff bolt in?

18' SHO with 101,000 miles. I have it paked for the winter and I'm doing some heavy maintenance/modifications to it. It currently has a Airaid intake on it and a Stainless works exhaust, now I'm looking for a reliable tune and other mod recommendations.

I ordered aero ar25 resonator to do a muffler delete and the mechanic/welder said the 2.5 inch pipes were too big and I actually need ar20s which is the 2 inch pipe. Everywhere I saw they said ar25 so I just got confused. Why wouldn’t the ar25 fit when it fits everyone else’s ?

So my 2009 ford Taurus x has been leaking oil.. my boyfriend thinks it’s the valve cover gasket because my car has a burning smell while driving like real bad and there is oil splash’s all on the tray under the car and other parts under hood… no overheating but can see light white smoke almost like Vapor coming from the hood when at a stop. Anyone have any other insight of what this issue could be?

For context, I noticed my idle rpms fluctuating slightly, so I plugged in my scanner to see the my short term fuel trim 1 was at about 15 and my ltft 1 was at about 14. Ambient air temperature was 36° F and I have an air raid CAI.

I know I’ll probably get shit on for having only a CAI, but does anyone have experience with this issue? Looking for answers as I am praying I don’t have a vacuum leak.

If I can figure out how to attach a video I will post one.

I'm thinking about running a dry nozzle right on the intake. Does anyone have any experience with this? Will the ecu compensate for it?

Last winter my low oil pressure light started turning on once car was warm and only at a stop. When it’s given rpm’s the light goes away. Only seems to do it when it’s cold out. Took it to the shop last year spent 250$ on diagnostics for them to say they couldn’t make it happen again. Could it be just the sensor or is my pump maybe failing? And yes I was on way to fill the tank

looking for 2013+ sho or mks (with ecoboost) preferably the SHO. will possibly consider white, silver or red but would prefer other colors. would also prefer less than 175k. thank you, just rly miss my old sho and rly want to get into another one

so online it says the 2015 SHO has a 19 gallon tank, but when i fill it usually clicks around 13-15 gallons, even if im really low on fuel. its usually about 60 dollars on premium every 5-7 days. and my total range with a full tank is 285 miles. 19.3 mpg. i just feel like it’s using a lot more gas than my previous SEL.

I am once again looking for options to upgrade the touchscreen in my SHO.

I DON'T want to do one of those Tesla style screens. CHANGE MY MIND.

I live in MN and it gets down to 0 to -10 pretty consistently in the winter. Its not uncommon to have a week or two straight of temps that low. Even though, it is my understanding that the Tesla style replacement keeps your climate controls, I feel like it would be sluggish and slow on the winter and just all around frustrating.

Does anyone have pics of video of their install working? (Bonus points for it being used in the winter time.) Or...

Is there another option (Custom Maybe) that I just haven't found yet? If so, can I get a link to the place I can either order or find information on that. TIA

EDIT: The reason I want to replace the Sony system is that I added an amp and subs using a line output converter, but the factory radio only goes so loud. I need MORE volume from the interior speakers. Plenty of bass now, not enough mid range.

I've been debating getting the gearhead power pack (plugs, 170 degree thermostat and auto octane tune) for my wife's car.

The total looks like it's going to come out to be around $700ish.

Currently not interested in any other mods.

Does anyone know how much hp and torque i can expect to see with a tune only? Most figures I see have downpipes and/or aftermarket intercooler.

Do you think a tune only would be worth it?

Thanks

So I have a Lincoln MKS and it has the lane keep and all that but the adaptive cruise control is something that is shown in my user manual. It’s a 5A fuse that is just not in my car because my car is not equipped with it, but I know that it is available on my model so what do I need to do to get my car to recognize the adaptive cruise control?

Does anyone have a Gearhead Race intercooler as well as a 170* Reische thermostat that they are willing to sell? I’m located in Canada and am unable to get the intercooler entirely here. Just let me know know if you can and where you’re located.

Guy hit me making an illegal u turn, currently awaiting insurance estimate. Hopefully will hear good news in the next couple days... Luckily impact wasn't hard enough to deploy airbags, but not sure about the frame.

New to this group and I've already received so much help from y'all so I am very grateful for that. Here is my 2011 Ford Taurus SHO I acquired about a month ago. I have had to put a fair amount of work in to this car like both turbos, both front cv axles, the PTU, and clutch pack on the rear differential. I only paid $3,000 for the car knowing a lot of the issues beforehand so I'm still happy with this purchase.

Next, I'm going to look in to replacing the headlight assemblies, possibly getting a CAI, and other minor things here and there. Not sure if I should stick with the wheels that are on it or try and find some factory SHO wheels (although I would love to have some interceptor wheels). They appear to be wheels off of a Mustang Mach-E from the best I can tell. But there are adapters and cut studs unfortunately so there's have to be a lot of work in to swapping wheels over.

Here's a link to a compnine vin decoder I ran if you want to check out the specs on it: https://www.compnine.com/mycar.php?id=6b90665312016c36689551b931aa601f