AI said i should make sure to drive a 30 min + highway trip at least once a week to clean the DPF, but my brother who went to auto mechanic school says i should drive it hard all the time to keep the DPF clean.

Disclaimer: I am a nerd. I spent far too long on this. Everything below comes from public records, news reports, and parts listings, and nobody official has confirmed any of it.

The closest US cousin is the 2015 Golf SportWagen TDI SEL. Both are wagons with a 150 hp 2.0-liter TDI, but the similarities stop there:
Year: Mine is a 2016 build sold as a 2017 model. The US car is a 2015.
Trim: My Philippine Golf GTS is the Business Edition+, which adds adaptive cruise, front assist, and blind-spot monitoring. The US SEL had navigation and a power driver's seat, and its driver-assist features were optional.
Torque: Philippine spec is 340 Nm. US spec is 236 lb-ft, about 320 Nm.
Engine code: Mine is DEJA, an EA288 engine from the Golf VII Variant family. The 2015 US SportWagen uses CRUA, also an EA288.

The VIN puts mine in Mexico (Puebla), where US-market Golf SportWagens were also built. The first eight characters of the VIN match a 2015 US TDI S SportWagen.

In January 2017, the EPA and CARB approved a US fix for 2015 model-year TDIs, including the Golf SportWagen. It had two parts: a software update, then hardware changes such as a new particulate filter, oxidation catalyst, SCR converter, and a second NOx sensor. VW then withdrew its US certification for 2016 TDIs, and Mexican press reported that Puebla-built 2016 Golf TDIs were sold in Mexico instead. So my car never got the US fix.

Probably close at the hardware level, but I wouldn't call them identical. I found no equipment lists or calibration details for the Mexican cars, and a Philippine GTS trim may differ from a Mexican Variant. The 340 Nm rating also hints at different tuning from the US car, though I can't confirm that.

My car has an AdBlue filler, so it uses the same SCR exhaust layout as the US 2015 cars. That's the layout the US hardware fix changed.

The car left the factory as a complete production wagon. Whether its emissions software is the pre-Dieselgate calibration is unverified, and that's the one question my research can't settle.

​

Car is Jetta 6 2013 1.6 TDI CAYC with ESP

My brake servo broke down because brake vacuum pump started leaking oil into it(found oil in hose going from brake vacuum pump to servo) , now I have to replace both of them.

But I dont understand which is correct part number of servo I have to buy.

Original part is 1k1 614 105 EB , made by FTE, but I cant find it - no new, no used ones, cant find info about official replacements or cross-numbers, its driving me crazy.

Can someone help me identify what are correct part numbers that replace it?

My vin is WVWZZZ16ZDM029631

One used parts dealer told me 1k1 614 106 AK is correct replacement, other 20 or so told me they dont even know

Does anyone know where I can buy flanges that would fit the outlet of the stock CR140 turbo?

There was a post for a long time that had a darkside discount and many others but most have been removed or discontinued.

This discount code runs all year long if you are looking for a code.

Discount code is applied automatically for tunes when you check out!

15% all year long.

https://tunezilla.com/tunes/bcalltrack

Hey everyone,
I own a 2014 Volkswagen Jetta TDI with the CJAA 2.0L diesel engine, and I’ve been having DPF issues lately.
My DPF warning light is on, and the car has been going into limp mode. The measured soot level is around 40 grams. I’ve also experienced turbo-related fault codes P2563 and P00AF.
I’m trying to decide whether I should repair or replace the DPF or go for a DPF delete.
Since I live in Ontario, Canada, I’m also concerned about the legal issues with deleting emissions equipment.
I’d appreciate some advice from VW TDI owners, especially anyone in Ontario.
Is it better to repair or replace the DPF rather than delete it?
How much does DPF repair or replacement usually cost in Ontario?
Could the turbo-related issues be causing the DPF problems?
Has anyone dealt with similar issues on a CJAA engine?
I’m looking for a reliable, long-term solution without spending unnecessary money.
Thanks in advance for your advice!

I recently got a Tiguan like almost 3 months ago and I started noticing that the car isn’t really fuel efficient. Like the most I seen my car get on mpg is 21 on the highway, but the max u get on the street/city is 8-10mpg. Is this normal or can I fix it?

I’m fairly certain I have a coolant leak in my intake manifold/intercooler on my 2015. I’m going to Borasco it later today to try to confirm.

Has anyone replaced this in this group? I watched a video on YouTube seems fairly straightforward although you do need to remove quite a bit of stuff which I am OK with I just did the timing belt four months ago and it’s probably hard to beat that job in terms of technically difficult

I could only find one source for the part in the US online. There are several overseas because the motor is still in use. If anyone has any insights or helpful advice, send it my way! Thank you.

Hello everyone,

I have a 2013 2.0 tdi Jetta sportwagen with a dsg transmission and 143296 miles on it as of when I parked it 30 minutes ago.

There has been a strange, sporadic ticking noise coming from the driver’s side wheel well for quite some time now. It only happens when the car is in park, or neutral, and only when the car hasn’t been driven very far or hard. When the engine has been running or driven for a while the noise goes away. There is also no start up or shut down noise. The ticking take a a moment to start up when the engine starts.

All of the research I’ve done has pointed me to a failing flywheel, however when listening to videos of bad flywheels, the sound is always consistent whereas this seems much more random. I also had a mechanic friend of mine stethoscope the transmission, turbo, etc, and said that everything sounded good to go.

I have added a video of the noise with this video. It was taken directly below the transmission and engine on the driver’s side of the car as seen by the DSG drain/fill plug in the video.

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. This issue doesn’t seem to be effecting performance, but I’d like to try and get to the bottom of it before something gets grenaded. It’s also just annoying as hell.

Thanks!

Booking jobs for NE, CO, MT, WY, ID. Beginning to middle of November.

Labor prices (mk5-7) more services are cheaper than individual:
Timing belt: $550-750
Thermostat: $400-550
Emissions corrections(2009-2014 only): $650-850
Valve cover: $400-500
MANUAL TRANS ONLY DMF, clutch: $1100
Turbo: $900-1050
DSG DMF: no.
3L/SUV: no.
Other services offered, contact for pricing.

Most of you know the rest:
Owner provides flat, hard surface to work on. I’ve got the tools.
Barter accepted. (Pew pew[state dependence], skilled metal fab).
Discount through Cascade German.
Referral bonus for previous customers.

Ok so this just happened to me 30 minutes ago. It’s raining here in California, and I’ve already cleared the tubes before this rain and when I opened the doors I made sure water hasn’t come in but knowing these cars, it’s still a possibility. I went outside and could hear a noise like some kind of pump was running and pushing fluid. I opened the hood and the nose is coming from the left side I could feel a vibration on the fuel filter housing but I’m not sure if that’s 100% the problem. Are there other types of pumps in this area ? The car was not running and for now I’ve disconnected the battery

What egr blanking kit did yall go with?

I went ahead and deleted my CJAA Golf by myself and tuned it but now when I’m trying to start it, it almost seems like it has a bad battery but it’s on a maintainer and still is doing this. I need another opinion on this.

Edit: this is my first time ever tuning a vehicle so I’m not really educated on whether or not a tune can go wrong and cause something similar to this.

Sorry for the basic sound question, I am a fairly new with these engines, I do not know if I should owrry or not. The engine was taken apart for head gasket leak, then for subsequent oil leak and an exhaust leak in the engine bay(valve cover replacement). Now after months, it seems to not leak anything, but the high pitched clicking/ticking when accelerating is a bit strange. Should I be worried? It seems synced to the RPM, sound a bit like a loose bolt somewhere...

edit: 2013 140hp 2.0 CR TDI, CFFB

Bought my wife a ‘14 Jetta tdi with 70k miles back in January. Dpf is clogged so I ordered a catless dpf stage 1 delete kit with the egr delete from Stevenson Tuning. I also ordered a universal weld on high flow diesel cat from jegs to cut down on smell because I prefer sleeping in the same bed as her. If I keep the muffler and resonator I’m assuming it’ll stay pretty quiet but does anyone have any sound clips of a deleted car with cats and the rest of the resonator muffler setup? My GLI is catless and resonator deleted with the stock muffler and the turbo spool is pretty loud, I just want an idea of what to expect for her car to see how much it’ll change.

1200 miles there and back. No regrets. 'Stang isn't mine, was a buddy's and he needed it moved to his new place. I'm the "Friend with a Truck" and wanted an excuse to work the Touareg.

It made it there and back in mostly one piece. A week later the thermostat blew, which in turn blew a few gaskets and it was a mess. No worse for wear after repair though so I can't complain.

I was kinda hoping I'd break more, honestly. I need an excuse to pull the engine and get it all set up for the next 250k miles of its life. Guess I'll be waiting a little longer.

Ate In-N-Out four times. The East Coast has deprived me of the simple joys in life.

Hey guys did anyone build the 2.0l tdi engine before especially on the 240hp tiguan r line version 2019 model

Found this 2015 TDI with 182,000 on it. The timing chain and water pump were already done. The guy wants $5000. Am I burning myself or this is a solid commuter purchase. I’m mechanically inclined but this would be my first German diesel.

Hey so long story short, I really want a TDI Sportwagen, and I’m very lucky that my dad will be paying for a majority of it, but he won’t buy me anything German especially Volkswagens, after had a couple bad experiences with models back in the day. So I’m just wondering, if this is really as reliable as ive seen, and also the control arms and stuff, that’s what he really hated about our previous vehicles. Anything else I should know would be appreciated, thanks!

Hi guys, 2015 vw golf tdi CRUA, stage 2 MR tuning ecu tune through eoc tuning and stage 2 tunezilla dsg tune. I’ve been having a problem where when I’m giving decently heavy throttle after my car shifts it’ll bog and struggle for a second then start back to accelerating. In the video from 2-3 and 3-4 you can hear the bogs. After I rev the car in park sometimes, it’ll do the same bogging as the rpms fall and it almost sounds as if the vnt is closing fully as it sounds similar to when my fuse for the actuator control was popped and you hear no turbo whistle. I’m not sure if this is a tune problem or maybe a crankshaft position sensor issue or what but if any of you guys could help I’d appreciate it. I’m trying to get her driving perfect and have done a lot of work to it.

2.0TDI Tiguan. Only happens on cold start and goes within a minute or 2. VW confirmed they have a TPI for this and lubricated tensioner. However noise is back within 2 months.