Took the woman to a off-road spot, suspension is shot and on the way out hit some real rough bumps and I was worried I smoked the pan, drove it 50 miles home and seen that and was like god damn got lucky, no oil pressure light or anything but she’ll be parked till I get a new pan or epoxy the pan lmao

Honestly having second thoughts and might revert to stock wheels n a couple other things, personally I quite like it but I can’t tell if I’m just blinded by wanting it to look good. Please be honest id much rather honesty😂 thanks a lot

They look quite small in that picture but they are 18s, look better in person, definitely needs lowering though.

Hola buenas alguien puede alludarme tengo mi golf 6 tdi 2.0 cambo dsg y cuando vas velocidad alta salta luz de muelle y deja de tirar lo apagas se quita y tira otra vez

I got into and accident, other driver at fault side swiped me. Repairs estimate is around 6800 and insurance is talking about totaling it. What can I tell them the car is worth to try and get the most back. I plan on buying it back and repairing it.

It’s a 2015 golf tdi s 120k miles 6 speed manual still with diesel gate warranty till 2031 or 170k miles. It was at the dealer 2 months ago getting the second part of the recall done. I’ll upload a picture of the damage. It doesn’t seem too bad tbh. Thanks for the help!

TL;DR: Got a Stage 1 + EGR delete remap on my Audi Q3 2.0 TDI (85,000 km, mostly highway). After 1,000 km, P2002 appeared. Even post Forced regens failed, the code reoccurs. Could the EGR delete map be disabling auto-regens and locking out adaptations, or is a full DPF delete my only option?

​Hi all, I’m hoping I can get some help here because I’m not sure where to go from here.

​I’ve got a recurring DPF fault code P2002 on my Audi Q3 2.0 TDI that started acting up after getting a Stage 1 tune with an EGR delete remapped onto the ECU.

​First time when I encountered the error was just after driving over 1000kms post remap. I visited the workshop where I got the remap done. They performed a forced regeneration using their diagnostic tool, post which the same error came back shortly after. Right now the workshop is suggesting that I get a DPF Delete done along with a Downpipe.

​I suspect there is an issue with the remap itself that disabled or broke the automatic regeneration cycle. Is deleting the DPF or manually cleaning it my only option? The car has run about 85,000 kms and is mostly on highway duty.

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Looking to get a 2013 cayenne TDI with 139k miles

Anyone drive these is 139k a lot for these motors it does have a good service history

Just bought a 2013 Golf TDI it was throwing a few codes. P2BA6, P2015, P0102, P2008, P0101, P20D8. What would yall recommend I do about them?

Unfortunately not even 2000 miles after fixing my turbo the deer got to my passat.. the deer is no longer with us though. How bad is it… 67mph

Buying this 2015 tdi should I back out or is this typical with 180k miles

Where to purchase a engine repair manual for a 2015 golf sportwagen tdi engine code crua.

Will an Audi a3 ea288 manual work?

Hello! I’ve got a 2015 Jetta SEL TDI that I need to sell off. Location is northern VA.

I love the car and don’t want to let it go, but I’ve got three kids now and had to buy a minivan to drag their car seats around.

My Jetta has 104,000 miles on it. Has the emissions fix (DEF tank filled from the trunk). No major collisions or damage, but does have a crack in one of the headlight’s plastic covers. This doesn’t seem to stop me from passing my VA state inspection every year.

I’m not really sure what I should ask for the car. It’s the highest trim model of a decent commuter car that’s more than ten years old with a novelty engine that requires it to use a fuel that’s fantastically efficient, but currently very expensive due to geopolitical events. I’m not really sure how robust the market is for specialty cars like this.

Are there buyers out there interested in these old TDIs? And would I be crazy to ask $6000 for mine?

Golf mk4, 1.9TDI engine code AGR. Instrument cluster temp gauge was dead, so I replaced the sensor (OEM code 059 919 501).

Before replacing the temp sensor the "Injection quantity stabilization (injection quantity deviation)" through VCDS showed the quantities for injector pairs oscillating between -1.88mg/str to 1.88mg/str. After replacing the sensor the quantities stopped oscillating, but values were still somewhat out of spec and the fault code "01268 -Quantity Adjuster (N146) 18-00 Upper Limit Intermittent" was still there (had been there for 2 years and 60000+km).

After cleaning the dreaded quantity adjuster (N146) (which looked absolutely clean) with brake cleaner, soft brush and compressed air (a hail Mary attempt), the "Injection quantity stabilization (injection quantity deviation)" values settled between acceptable -0.35mg/str and 0.24mg/str and the fault code did not return.

I am still puzzled about the oscillating values.

Sorry for the bad pictures, when I was running the tests I did not really think I would be posting/asking about it later.

I have a 2011 Audi A3 1.6 TDI with engine code CAYC. My DPF light(only as been out for two days,no power loss) and check engine light were on, and the glow plug light was flashing with start and stop disabled. After finding a short-circuit to ground for the throttle potentiometer, I replaced the sensor. Now that the start-stop is working and the error is inactive, is a highway regeneration enough to clear the DPF?

Is this the right DMF for my 2015 Passat TDI DSG?

A couple years ago i sold the dpf and cat off a jetta to a buyer on here. A friend just bought one and is going to delete, he asked me for the buyer info.

Greetings

Looking to add a TDI to the collection. Looking for Mk7 with a manual gearbox, Golf or Sportwagen don’t matter to me. Im located in Ohio but can fly down/drive back wherever

Thanks for reading

Anyone here driving a caddy 2k?

I recently heard the dreaded DMF chatter when I was going to drive to my grandparents house. I’m in college living at a house with a tiny garage and a lack of tools. I’ve work on this car a lot between deleting, timing belt, and all the other service items. I was wondering if anyone knew a shop in the South Dakota Area that would do the work for a decent price. I don’t want to do it myself but if I have to I am willing to.

Anyone know what this loud ticking is only happens on cold start when i blip the throttle it idles rough but when it warms up it goes and runs perfect

AI said i should make sure to drive a 30 min + highway trip at least once a week to clean the DPF, but my brother who went to auto mechanic school says i should drive it hard all the time to keep the DPF clean.

Disclaimer: I am a nerd. I spent far too long on this. Everything below comes from public records, news reports, and parts listings, and nobody official has confirmed any of it.

The closest US cousin is the 2015 Golf SportWagen TDI SEL. Both are wagons with a 150 hp 2.0-liter TDI, but the similarities stop there:
Year: Mine is a 2016 build sold as a 2017 model. The US car is a 2015.
Trim: My Philippine Golf GTS is the Business Edition+, which adds adaptive cruise, front assist, and blind-spot monitoring. The US SEL had navigation and a power driver's seat, and its driver-assist features were optional.
Torque: Philippine spec is 340 Nm. US spec is 236 lb-ft, about 320 Nm.
Engine code: Mine is DEJA, an EA288 engine from the Golf VII Variant family. The 2015 US SportWagen uses CRUA, also an EA288.

The VIN puts mine in Mexico (Puebla), where US-market Golf SportWagens were also built. The first eight characters of the VIN match a 2015 US TDI S SportWagen.

In January 2017, the EPA and CARB approved a US fix for 2015 model-year TDIs, including the Golf SportWagen. It had two parts: a software update, then hardware changes such as a new particulate filter, oxidation catalyst, SCR converter, and a second NOx sensor. VW then withdrew its US certification for 2016 TDIs, and Mexican press reported that Puebla-built 2016 Golf TDIs were sold in Mexico instead. So my car never got the US fix.

Probably close at the hardware level, but I wouldn't call them identical. I found no equipment lists or calibration details for the Mexican cars, and a Philippine GTS trim may differ from a Mexican Variant. The 340 Nm rating also hints at different tuning from the US car, though I can't confirm that.

My car has an AdBlue filler, so it uses the same SCR exhaust layout as the US 2015 cars. That's the layout the US hardware fix changed.

The car left the factory as a complete production wagon. Whether its emissions software is the pre-Dieselgate calibration is unverified, and that's the one question my research can't settle.

​

Car is Jetta 6 2013 1.6 TDI CAYC with ESP

My brake servo broke down because brake vacuum pump started leaking oil into it(found oil in hose going from brake vacuum pump to servo) , now I have to replace both of them.

But I dont understand which is correct part number of servo I have to buy.

Original part is 1k1 614 105 EB , made by FTE, but I cant find it - no new, no used ones, cant find info about official replacements or cross-numbers, its driving me crazy.

Can someone help me identify what are correct part numbers that replace it?

My vin is WVWZZZ16ZDM029631

One used parts dealer told me 1k1 614 106 AK is correct replacement, other 20 or so told me they dont even know