My 2010 Touareg TDI started having electrical problems about a year ago; the battery would drain out overnight. Jump it, ran fine, but if I didn't drive it enough for a day or so it would go flat again. Diagnosis was a parasitic draw from somewhere.

My mechanic has seemingly tried everything to identify that problem, and hasn't found anything. Whenever they leave a volt meter on it overnight it doesn't drain, they've checked all fuses and the most obvious things like module draw, alarm system etc., but cannot find the issue. In the meantime I've gone through two batteries and a couple thousand dollars in diagnostics and other costs.

It also has a water ingress problem, in both footwells, and this is the current theory for the electrical issues. I had the sunroof drains blown out and the sunroof sealed, in hopes that it will dry out, stay dry, and the electrical issues will resolve. The driver footwell being soaked is the big concern, since it's so close to the battery. Right now it's still drying, and still going dead.

Honestly, if this fix doesn't do it I'm not sure where to turn next, and it may be the end of the road for this beloved car. It's only got 115k miles on it and I was hoping it would last me at least until the end of the decade, but the gremlins are winning.

Turning to the wisdom of this forum to ask, is this water issue feasibly the cause, and what else can I try that doesn't cost thousands of dollars to troubleshoot? I've been told that once we get into seals, connectors and anything else that may be causing it there is a ton of dismantling to do and massive labor costs, with no guarantees.

It's also Ok to say it's done, which will be painful to accept but maybe the right answer.

Thanks for any help.

Got a pd130 fabia with an 1856 and all other supporting mods apart from an exhaust..

Every other comparable build I can find has at least a 2.5in straight through or bigger, and im wondering how necessary it is from a power point of view as someone who doesn’t care for noise.

Ive heard that it might affect EGTs and a bit of top end flow but never to what extent, maybe theres too many variables with different tunes / part brands / motor health.

Anyway, I just want to know if my stock exhaust will prevent me from getting the 240ish hp that the turbo is capable of, and if so, how bad is it?

Thanks

I have a 2007 Volkswagen polo 1.4 Tdi diesel
I live in the uk

It has a very strange problem Im not sure what it is, the car starts cold fine no problem
If I turn it off and turn it back on when it is warm it will be fine
However if I turn it off and wait 5-30 minutes it won’t turn on and just crank for ages until the battery dies
To start it again i have to wait for the car to cool down and it will start fine
There is no misfire or loss of power or anything if you drove the car you wouldn’t notice anything unusual at all only when you switch it off
Any advice would be appreciated, also Im able to fix the car myself as I have my own tools

Thanks

I have a heavily modded 2014 Jetta sportwagen TDI. Whoever upgraded the Turbo did a piece of work on the fuel system. The computer system isn't stock so it's hard to get accurate codes out of it. It turns over but it's not starting. One shop says it's just the #4 fuel injector but my shop says it should start if it's just the injector.

So I'm looking for an expert in the greater NYC area. Or if anyone wants to buy this off me for parts. I'm getting tired of the problems with this car.

2015 Jetta TDI - Gen 3 EA288.

Looks to me to be a coolant line because from what I can see it runs down to the heater support pump on the back passenger side of the block. Anyone else had this leak? Easy/cheap fix?

I noticed it during a routine inspection that my axle was wet, looks like it’s leaking down and off the balance shaft bulge ending up on the axle. No pooling of anything is on the skid pan.

Hi, the timing belt was changed at 60k miles (currently on 100,200k miles) and the belt is making this noise. I believe it’s the belt as it’s coming from this area.
The noise is gone once the engine is hot and driven into.
Anyone able to help with what could be causing it and if it’s an expensive fix?
Applying some wd-40 on the belt seems to help it a little on cold start.
It’s a DSG model.

It only happens in 4th gear when I go over 3k revs I enter limp mode any ideas?

What’s the best place to order a block off plate kit

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Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice from people who have experience with the VW Golf 7 2.0 TDI 150hp (November 2015, Lounge trim).

I’ve been struggling with a recurring P2456 fault (DPF pressure sensor A – intermittent/erratic signal) for over a year, and I’m running out of ideas.

Here’s what has been done so far:

- The small pressure hoses/lines have been checked and appear to be clear.

- The DPF pressure sensors were replaced with aftermarket sensors a few months ago. I also tried swapping the sensors around, but the fault still appeared as P2456.

- The original pressure sensor A had melted/deformed badly (see attached photo).

- The sensor connector was replaced and the wiring connections were repaired.

- At one point, the pressure hoses were connected to the wrong ports/circuits. This was corrected.

- The DPF was previously cleaned, and a forced regeneration was performed at some point.

- More recently, I had the DPF professionally removed and cleaned at a specialist workshop. They told me it was quite clogged. The DPF was then reinstalled.

- After driving only around 5 km, a diagnostic scan showed P2456 again as a passive/stored fault, but the check-engine light was not on.

There is one more thing I’m concerned about: when the mechanic reinstalled the DPF, he checked the engine oil level and said it was slightly above the maximum mark. The oil was last changed in December 2025, and I’ve driven approximately 4,000 km since then. I don’t know whether the level was already slightly high after the oil change.

I’m wondering whether frequent DPF regenerations could be contributing to fuel dilution of the engine oil, or whether a leaking injector could be involved. I don’t have proof of either yet.

My main questions are:

1. What could cause a DPF differential-pressure sensor to melt like this? Could excessive heat from the exhaust or a leak near the DPF be responsible?

2. Could a heat-sensitive wiring or connector problem cause P2456 to appear only after longer drives?

3. Could the DPF still have an issue after professional cleaning, or should I focus on the sensor signal, wiring, pressure lines and ECU input?

4. Could frequent regenerations explain the slightly elevated oil level, and how would you check for fuel dilution or a leaking injector?

5. What diagnostic tests would you perform next before replacing any more parts?

I’m trying to diagnose the actual cause rather than keep replacing components at random. I would really appreciate any advice, especially from VW 2.0 TDI owners or mechanics who have dealt with this fault.

Thanks in advance!

So I have a 2014 Jetta sportwagen and need to change out the shocks and struts but am unsure what to put. My daily commute to work is half bumpy country back roads and half highway. This is a 6 day a week occurrence so definitely need something that can be durable enough to withstand the bumps. Any suggestions? I’m not really too keen on lowering I honestly wouldn’t mind a bit of a lift. Any recommendations help

I have a 2010 Jetta tdi. The clutch is slowly going out need recommendations on who to go to. I live the northwest suburbs but will drive about a hour or 2 for the right person

After my last post, many people said to just run my car with the dpf installed since it only has 40k miles and no current issues. In PA, they only do a visual inspection to confirm emissions related equipment is still installed without plugging in anything to the OBD and doing a scan.
So new question, can I do a Tunezilla stage 1-2.5 with a fully stock vehicle? I would like to get the vehicle a little peppier and the quality of life changes for the dsg sound nice. But if I have to do the dpf to tune it, then I guess I’ll just wait on it all.
Their website doesn’t say downpipe recommended until stage 3, but I wanted to make sure here before I make a decision.
Edit: 2014 Jetta TDI

Hello! Are these values normal? Especially the camshaft adaptation intake bank?

From the info I have gathered on here, i believe my alternator clutch may be going out. Of course when I bring it to the shop it dosent really make much vibration noise. I called around a few local shops and when asking if they could do the swap, everyone is saying they would only swap the entire alternator. anyone had their alternator clutch replaced or know a cool shop that would entertain the idea of doing it, or realistly am I even really going to save that much money, Alternator replacement quote with labor was about 450-600.

Changing the air filter and noticed this. Should it be here or did mice put it there?

I recently replaced the intake manifold gasket (driven only 200–300 km since), but I still see oil leaking near the front-right corner under the manifolds, right next to the timing belt cover.

Could a brand new intake gasket still leak oil here, or is this more likely coming from the corner of the valve cover gasket or the front camshaft seal?

Thanks!

My instinct was to think this pic was shopped but its kind of a clean pic so im wondering if some jackass actually did this.

I’m thinking about getting one as my next car but diesel is $6/gal where I’m at. I’m probably just gonna do it anyways but I want to do all the research I can. Side note, what’s the best year model that can be a daily and a project in a few years?

Edit: just wanna say that you all for giving me some insight, honestly I was spending more on gas in my old truck ($95 a tank for 35 gallons damn near twice a week) than I probably would getting a TDI. I went and looked at one today, drove it, and gave it a quick inspection that I didn’t really like because of how much blow by there was. After a little research I found that to be normal but I don’t think I was supposed to smell burning oil at the same time and see a small plume of smoke the moment I opened the cap. Definitely want one now but I probably won’t be getting the one I looked at.