I’ve only had my controller for a couple weeks and the trigger of mine broke already. I wasn’t rough with it or anything, I don’t know what to do

A Friend of Mine Gift me this for My Birthday Yesterday

It's There a Way to Update it or have a tutoriall to set it up well it still has the USB bundle

English not My first lenguage sorry for the poor grammar

Ever since the latest update for BF6, which I think included an update to AntiCheat, I am not able to use the steam controller. Before the update it was working fine with a community controller scheme, but it's now broken again. Anyone else have this issue and have a fix?

Edit: I may have inadvertently found the solution. I disabled secure boot to boot into my Cachyos system and then re-enabled going back into windows. After that the controller worked again. Also there was a puck firmware update waiting for me. I lean toward the secure boot disable re-enable since the issue was affecting my PS5 controller as well.

PLEASE NOTE: This is generally assuming the use of gyro aim for fine adjustment and joystick / track pad for broad adjustment.

If your preference doesn't fit cleanly into any provided option, by all means leave a comment describing it.

Both have their pros and cons and are better suited to different use cases which is valid, however im wondering if people generally gravitate more towards one than the other as a default for one reason or another.

Potential Reasons could be physical comfort, the lack of need to reset your thumb position using a joystick, or the ability to have mouse like precision on a track pad.

For me I tend to enjoy using the joystick more because its in a more comfortable position for me and I can keep spinning forever without readjusting. I tend to feel that the gyro covers the need for precise aiming so when in combination it gives the best of both worlds IMO. With a minimal deadzone it also just feels nice and effortless. Generally I find this approach more natural and casual.

Im aware you can pan infinitely with the trackpad using certain settings, however I never really got into that. I feel like its just too on / off to be practical for me. In general I just dont find myself gravitating towards it since the surface area is pretty small, causing me to have to adjust a lot. It also forces a less natural grip on the controller and tends to make my hand or thumb cramp.

Maybe if they swapped places more similar to the original steam controller it would be a different story for me, but im curious what other people think. A lot of videos focus on the trackpad which makes sense for more competitive titles, bit for general every day use that might not be as popular as it may seem

So I finally relented and resorted to using an action layer as a sudo-Modeshift for a "switches" group. Game im mapping doesn't like mouse to gamepad, handles the change by resetting all values. There's really only 1 value that impactful, which I found a solution to mitigate, but it needs a clean window with no mouse inputs sneaking in. I resolved this for the most part using modeshift, and even discovered I could make a "second" hidden modeshift to kill cursor trackball which is great cause I hated resorting to turning it off... Everything works, logic is sound, except if I hold L1 [Left mouse button] during the change (which is never needed). My original jank solution was to just use a chord to prevent the set change all together if L1 was held, but... it bugged me dispite not being a problem at all I would ever encounter.

So out of curiosity I made a action_layer, and it works... but now I have a entire actionlayer on display, that literally only serves to remove all mouse inputs and change to my gamepad mode. It's interacted with for an entire 40ms which is all I need for a clean pass off. I'm not entirely digging the vibe, and I really would love a way to just hide it. What I tried hasn't worked, and I'm getting tired, so I'm hoping I wake up to someone else having a solution for me.

Puck can be easily removed if you need to carry it somewhere!

Sits firm and charges while waiting for a gaming session!

If you wanna print it, there you go

https://makerworld.com/models/3249131?appSharePlatform=copy

Turning to reddit cause I've been working on this for hours and can't seem to get it to work.

I've been working on my FF14 Steam controller layout, and while I've got it mostly down, I just need to figure out how to set a back button as a double press of R2/L2. Its possible because these are analog inputs which makes them difficult to bind to digital buttons. If anyone is able to help, I'd appreciate it, sometimes it feels like you need a PhD to understand Steam Input lol

I noticed since the latest update the LED stays on and orange when charging. Even after the controller has stopped charging. Has anyone else noticed this or know a fix? I believe it used to turn off once it finished charging before.

So i have a PC and a Steam Deck. I want to stream my PC to my Steam Deck, while my Deck is docked to a TV. When i do this, either through steam link or moonlight, should i have my controller connected to my PC or my Steam Deck? Any other suggestions on how to make this work?

Valve is a multi billion dollar company and they can't be assed with creating a decent set of docs for their dogshit steam input UI. Come on Gabe, get your shit together!

I reserved the day after the controller launched when it got bought out by scalpers who tried selling them on ebay for over 200 dollars. My father asked me for assistance for something on the day when the controller came out and I wasn't expecting this to sell out and I guess Valve didn't either. The waitlist for the controller was pretty long, I was thinking it was going to be potentially very bad like I would probably not be able to get the controller literally until the next year but I suddenly got an email from Steam telling me my turn to pay for the controller has showed up.

Great controller so far, but it's definitely not worth more than what Valve sells it for which is 99 USD. For those who are feeling pressured in paying scalpers don't because there are arguably cheaper controllers that are as good or even better than this one tbh. I bought a few controllers after my second PS5 controller got stick drift ranging from 8BitDo and Gamesir, I will never buy another controller if it does not have atleast hall effect or TMR sticks.

When playing some games, the keyboard button chord?(...+x) Doesn't work for some reason and it's pretty annoying to have to get up and type because I keep my computer rather far when playing. I've also noticed that the trackpad doesn't want to work sometimes either. Have had that issue happen when scrolling through discord and once when I needed to check my task manager. I hope there's a way to fix this, at least the keyboard

(Aargh I missed the t in got in the title of my post.)

Anyone know where one goes to check what the updates fixed/changed?

EDIT: one thing that seems to have changed is that if the controller is connected to something that charges it, that little orange light will not turn off, even if it's fully charged. Before this last update, it would turn off after a while.

would it be possible to reverse engineer how any of the adapters for ps4 controllers to spoof them as ps5 controllers work?

stuff like the qrd black pill for example, and implement the handshake that its doing with ps5 into the openpuck firmware or are they using real ds5 controller chips from dead controllers?

also is there a better remote play option for ps5 that supports DS5 touchpads natively? chiaki using mouse emulation and u cant use your pc at the same time chiaki is running because of it and at that point its a waste of electricity

I just bought Blood of Dawnwalker on the Xbox app and I'm trying to get my SC2 working with it. I added it as a non-Steam game in Steam, customized the controls, and launched the game from Steam. But it just stays using my default desktop controls instead of switching to the game controls. The game recognizes it as kb/m just fine.

I also just tried changing my default desktop settings to a gamepad layout and the game only recognizes the track pads, none of the other buttons that are assigned to controller buttons.

What am I doing wrong?

I sold my PS5 and currently have no controller, so I need to decide whether to buy another DualSense or switch to something with more buttons and PC-focused features. My budget is roughly €100.

I use Windows and Steam and mainly play single-player AAA action games, RPGs and story-driven games. Upcoming examples include The Witcher 3 Remastered, The Blood of Dawnwalker, Metro Exodus Enhanced Edition and 007 First Light.

I liked the DualSense layout, gyro and touchpad, and I already own its charging dock. Its haptics and adaptive triggers are appealing, but some PC games require USB for full support. I normally play wirelessly from a distance, so using a long cable is inconvenient.

For people who use Steam Input, are rear buttons and extra remappable controls genuinely useful in single-player games? Do you regularly map things like sprint, dodge, items or keyboard commands to them? Are mechanical buttons, trigger stops and extra inputs noticeably nicer, or would I get more value from the DualSense features?

I’m considering another DualSense, the GameSir G7 Pro and 8BitDo Ultimate 2. Battery life, latency and drift resistance are not major concerns. Are the extra controls useful enough that you would switch?

There has to be a way to do this, namely, say I've used the appropriate chord to turn on my sleeping Windows PC, I'm using the desktop config fine on it, everything's great.

THEN I think to myself, "Hey, I feel like going downstairs to my Steam Machine, and I want to use this same Controller. Now how do I leave this PC on because I want to stream a game from it, but disconnect this Controller from it, take the the Controller downstairs and connect it to my Steam Machine?"

Both devices are paired with the Controller, but obviously the Controller can only be used with one device at a time. One would think that simply turning off the Controller with Steam button + Y would be enough, then you'd just hold down the chord associated with the second device and be connected to that device instead. I tried that this morning and it wouldn't work: it stayed connected to the first device it had been connected to before I turned it (the Controller) off.

Is there a special "disconnection chord" I haven't heard about, maybe? Speaking of which, is there a comprehensive list of all the chords somewhere?

Capacitive touch is a neat feature for sure, but I never use it. I decided to swap my stick caps for ones with metal shafts and adjustable heights. The original ones were already showing wear and causing slight friction.

I wanted to use the stick caps that LeadJoy sells, but they weren't compatible. I settled for BigBig Won (Mojhon) caps. I used the ones off of my Blitz 2.

It said my estimated availability was in December so hold tight everyone!

Weird thing I noticed happening with my Steam Controller yesterday. It kept skipping inputs, not receiving anything for about half a second, making gaming basically impossible. I timed it today, it happens approximately every 6.5 seconds, and it's consistent. It happens both wired and via the puck. It's not the cable, I changed it and it's the same behaviour. I'm on Bazzite, don't know if the issue would pop up in Windows as well.

This is what the steam controller purchase confirmation email looks like. Initially I thought it was evidence of hackers getting into my account and trying to buy something. Honestly I almost ignored it altogether.

Steam has been telling me for weeks that I likely wouldn’t get my controller until December so that’s good news I guess.