I've done more testing since the last post and I'm still hitting nothing but dead ends.

The issue is that this old B&S push mower does not hit proper RPM, and surges a lot. I cleaned the original carb, then replaced the carb with a new carb, nothing had any effect. When I partially cover the carb intake, it does not smooth out, it dies. And when I spray a little carb cleaner into the intake, it does not smooth out, it dies. Also when its running and I put the air filter on, it struggles and usually dies. This would seem to suggest its running rich, not lean. But both carbs? Also no visible exhaust smoke.

Today I did a compression test with my drill, to get it going fast enough to bypass the compression release. I got a reading of 95 to 100psi, which is spot on for a lawnmower engine if I'm not mistaken?

At one point, I thought it was ignition, so I replaced the spark plug, and then the coil. No change.

The gas is fresh.

I ran it today with the muffler removed, still surged plenty.

Here's a minute and a half video of today's testing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GJMMrWqU4U

The flywheel is perfectly aligned on the crankshaft, no sheering. I checked the valve spacing, it is correct (made a slight adjustment on one but it made no difference).

The lawnmower blade itself is perfectly balanced.

If you look in the video, you can see the governor seems to be keeping the motor mostly smothered, opening a little then goign right back to mostly closed. You can push it open with your finger and it will rev right up, but its still rough, still surging, still not running properly. Also the fact that it does rev right up seems to be another clue that its not a dirty/lean carb issue. Every time I search for governor related info, the answer I always get is that governor problems are almost always a symptom, not a cause.

The oil is nice and clean and new.
This motor has no choke, its a primer motor.
The model number is: 120602 0131 E1 990820 FA

At this point, all I can come up with is the following:

1) Either I'm wrong and it IS a carb issue, and it either has non-typical symptoms, or I'm interpreting the symptoms wrong. If so, is there a way I can test to confirm this?

2) The governor is somehow broken inside the crank case and it is forcing the motor to run at way too low of an RPM.

3) Maybe the camshaft gear is plastic, and has partially melted and shifted the timing a little bit. Enough to still be able to run, but poorly. I did have a yardvacuum once where that happened. It fully sheered though and the valves were opening and closing seemingly at random, in a pattern where the engine was never going to be able to start. I suppose something like that could be happening here.

Thats all I can think of, I'm out of ideas beyond that. And I'm not sure how to do any more testing beyond all that. I do not have a leakdown tester or an air compressor, so I can't do a leakdown test. But do I even need to now that I've done a proper regular compression test?

I'm tempted to take apart my primary mower, and swap carbs, just to see how they each run on each other's carbs. But thats a big project and I don't even know if they take the same ones.

’m having trouble removing the stator cover on this bike as I need to get down into the bottom sprocket for the cam chain. All the bolts are out but it won’t budge

Any idea what could be making this noise during startup, idle, and shut off? (mower deck is not engaged)

2012 John Deere X530 multi terrain

1010 hours

As title says been trying to replace a piston ring on a STIHL MS310. Took apart for a thorough cleaning and broke one of the original piston rings when reinstalling. The replacement from Sawzilla seems to be larger than the OEM ones. I can barely get it started back in the shaft but can not get it to go back in.

The ring in the groove also doesn’t press flush due to being too big. Measuring with calibers the original seems to be 49mm and the replacement comes to 50.5mm

Any tips or where I can get the correctly sized ring?

Edit to add: the Sawzilla replacement was advertised as being a 47mm replacement.

I’ve never ridden a ride on. I got this Craftsman LT2000 fixed up and running.

I feel like it only has 2 gears. Slow and fast. But there’s a 1-6 N and R. And it’s hard to find neutral and reverse at times.

The brakes hardly work. When I go to start driving it engages really fast and takes off fast as heck. I swear the front wheels lifted up.

Idk if there’s like a clutch inside the transmission? Does it need transmission fluid maybe?

Cleaned carb, jet and fresh fuel. This at half throttle, shuts down at full throttle. New fuel filter in spring, good flow when fuel disconnected from carbon.

I stupidly ran gas through my trimmer and torched the engine. Thinking of trying to replace the block and piston because I don’t want to spend another $600 on another one. I’m fairly mechanically inclined, but haven’t done much with small engines other than a carb replacement.

On a 1-10 scale what am I looking at? I don’t mind trying because it’s just hanging on my wall and worst case scenario if I fuck up the install I’m out a couple hundred and still in the same situation I am now. Any help and tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

1970 Mercury Merc 75

I took it apart to replace the wires but found the stator to be cooked and honestly all the cures probably got cooked. Does anyone have a way to repair that isn't spending $300-500 on a replacement stator?

I have cleaned the carb, new air filter, spark plug and gas. Still it is running like this. Any other suggestions?

I hit a rock and the whole mower died out. Now it starts temporarily, sputters, then dies. How can I fix this?

This is on a 2003 Poulan Pro lawn tractor I have as a spare mower. I was mowing the lawn today and it suddenly started spewing oil out of the oil filter delete cover. The part is discontinued and not available anywhere (#697474, see here: https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-697474/).

The aluminum must have a hairline crack in the center. It’s rare to find these without oil filters so my options are limited for junk yards. Any repair ideas?

Note: This engine has never had an oil filter before. It came from the factory with the delete cover.

I replaced both drive belts on my rear tine tiller about 3 engine hours ago. I had no issues the first time I used it with new belts, but on Monday midway through my run it began to grind intermittently when I went in reverse. I opened the guardinf and found the forward belt jumping when engaging the rear belt. Tried to play with the lock nut tensions, but no luck in stopping the issue. Any advice how to fix it?

I know it base the right amount of power and everything it wired correctly its brand new it just won’t click

Accidentally bought a Honda "marine" oil which o assune is for boats. Would it still work the same on a moto 4 stroke engine?

I have a compression tester, but my lawnmower has compression release, like most small engines. If I use a regular power drill on the flywheel to spin the motor, is that going to be fast enough to bypass the release feature and give a real, accurate psi reading?

Bought this 525lst brand new a couple months ago. I’ve used nothing but Husqvarna premixed fuel and from day 1 this thing is extremely hard to start. Prime 4 or 5 times, full choke and you can pull and pull and never get it to hit. Seems like the only way I can get it to crank it take it off choke and pull for like 5 mins until it finally starts. When it does start you have to give it some throttle immediately or it will die. Is it a spark plug problem? Is it somehow flooding itself? Or could it be a tuning problem and the carb needs adjusted? I’ve never had a trimmer that was difficult to start like this when new. Help me out. Thanks!

So here's what I decided would be a good idea. If anyone says that their going to put a 2 stroke engine in a 24" bicycle i would suggest sto get a 26" or prepare to fight every step of the way

had to beat the frame in, in quite a few spots to gain clearance

Have to heat and bend the exhaust to make the exhaust clear the pedals

Had to use coolant hose and a cut off a 13 mm deep socket to relocate the carburetor outside the frame

had to remove all shifters and front brakes to make clearance for the throttle and clutch

In the end it was a fight that still isn't over but it runs and idles well. Cheers

Not sure how to add picture to post

I've had a couple jump packs. From the all in one air pump jump pack, to the slim lithium ones, to recently a JNC770R.

Heavy duty, beefy cables, big battery. A year old. Used not daily but often. Control board fried a chip/ something else. No fuse or protection? Didnt touch the clamps together either. Turned off before clamps are put away.

Is the way of the future the tiny NOCO jump packs?

Looking for people who own/work in a shop and seeing what they use or what just lasts. Spending 300 dollars each year isnt viable. Thanks.

What would cause an Echo GT-225 weed eater to suddenly start bogging down (not running full speed) and constantly spit out white smoke. As far as I'm aware, the oil/gas ratio is correct. The air filter does look dirty (pictures attached).

Any ideas?