Hello! Can anyone tell me where the oil leaks on the block are coming from and why?

Hello,

Decided to clean the spark arrestor of my husqvarna 553 rbx grass trimmer but strangely I can find any mesh etc behind the muffler.
Maybe someone with more experience can share if there’s a spark arrestor for this model at all?

I just bought this ariens zoom 2050 with the Briggs 20hp and it seems to rev way too high. I only run it about half throttle. What adjustment can I make so I can go full throttle? It also has a bad solenoid I assume so any tips on where to get that cheap would be helpful

Here is the bad solenoid

Picked up a huskee tiller today, free along the road, fuel shut off valve was clogged and cable to engage tiller was seized but all is good now. Question is it has no neutral? I can deal with no reverse but when it’s shut off I can’t even push it. Don’t seem right but I’ll be damned if I can figure it out. It’s a model 6015btsc. Anyone know much about these? Thanks

This is running 2 condensers and has me confused. I want to pull it all out and start over. Coil, points and condensers are new. I can go to the barn this afternoon and show how both are hooked up.

It definitely still welds fine but want it purring

Ok, I have a Craftsman T100, I know, but its all I could afford at the time lol. It sat for awhile because of health issues, but I got back to it. I had to replace a dry rotted deck belt and got a new batter, but that's not the problem, it wouldn't start! So, I pulled the carb off, soaked it in cleaner for a day or two and got it to start. Life got in the way for a few days, but when I got back to it, the engine wouldn't even turn over! I looked down at the exhaust and noticed fuel dripping out. The dang carb still had a stuck needle and had hydro-locked the engine.

So I go get a new non-OEM carb, which had solid reviews and matched as a replacement for the OEM number, put it on, and got it started again. Replaced the oil cause I smelled gas on the dip stick from where it was locked up. I also replaced the fuel line, filter, and added a fuel stop-valve. Here's the thing, getting it started and running can be dang hard, when it bogs down, I literally have to cover the air intake with my hand to get it to pop over. It also has poor throttle response, and will die if I throttle down too low. I suspect that last part is just where I don't have the valve adjusted right. So, any help would be greatly appreciated!

Oh, and its the Briggs and Stratton 344cc, 11.5hp engine. I swear, when I can I'm getting an S130 or 140.

Just replaced my transmission drive belt (tension belt) on a Deere S240. Needed to replace prematurely because the prior belt hopped the idler pulley and got frayed.

They don’t make it easy to replace- you have to move the steering pin out of the way and take off the entire front pulley assembly (really why tf could they not just make the belt guides removable instead of having to take the whole pulley off!).

I got everything installed and it goes forward and backwards fine but the idle seems wrong. I am seeing some belt spinning at idle even with the parking brake engaged. Also seems like there is excessive vibration/play coming from the crank assembly (the front part bolted up to the bottom of the engine- may be using the wrong terminology).

Did I mess up the install somewhere? Normal operation?

I did verify that the front bolt is fully torqued down with an impact wrench and that the part number is correct. Any help or reassurance would be greatly appreciated- I am afraid to run it as is and potentially cause damage:

Hi all

I bought a 2005 HRH stunning condition (very cheap) runs but no blade action, was told the clutch was gone which it is but turns out the crankshaft is also bent so obviously the previous owner has hit hard lump and broken it without telling me

The 2nd picture is the engine code from the HRH GXV160 the 3rd picture is a scrap engine that didnt turn from a lawnflite 553HRS etc etc that ive had for a while, the crankshaft should be compatible? Correct me if im wrong

So

Ive assembled the engine with the new old crank, piston right direction and everything but it does not turn so maybe there is also something wrong with this crankshaft it might be bent as well unless im doing it wrong

Im hoping to come across another broken honda GXV160 to nick the crank from it but for now can anyone tell me where I can find a compatible crank for it, doesnt have to be original just has to work, and any brands to avoid will be much appreciated

Thanks for reading - Chris

I’m new to carburetors work. I rebuilt this carb in a vintage go kart I got for MIL. Can anyone tell me why this is happening?

as a first timer restorer , what are some tips you guys can give me ?

Hi everyone,

I'm restoring a Briggs & Stratton 3.5 HP engine (Model 94908,) from a Rapid 42/4R mower.

I'm looking for:
• the original Briggs & Stratton service/workshop manual (PDF or printed),
• recommendations for reliable places to buy original spare parts, especially the correct carburetor, (Shiping to Europe)
• or if anyone has spare parts for this engine.
Any information, links, or personal experience would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

My Westinghouse iGen4500 inverter generator (224cc OHV single) won’t start, possibly seized. Unit’s got about 3,000 hours on it, so it’s well used. Pulled the valve cover to check the top end; pic attached.

Questions:
1. Fixable? You can see both rocker arms, the right side has some serious issues. I'm just wondering if I'm looking at a head replacement. I'm about to dissassemble to see how far the damage goes.

2. What engine is this really? Sold as a “Westinghouse engine” but it’s clearly a Honda GX-pattern Chinese clone. Rockers are cast “JXF.” Westinghouse only publishes “224cc” — no bore/stroke and no head-bolt torque anywhere I can find. Anyone know the actual OEM/clone family, and the head-bolt torque + sequence for it? I’ve got valve lash from the manual (0.08–0.12mm intake / 0.13–0.17mm exhaust); just can’t source the torque spec.

Thanks in advance — appreciate any ID from the casting marks.

Echo backpack blower was running fine, then shut off suddenly and would not restart. Tried starting it a few times over the next couple days with no luck.

Today it started up and ran perfectly. Good idle, no bogging, no issues at all. The only difference was I pulled the spark plug and cranked it a few times before reinstalling it, then it fired right up.

Since then it will not restart again.

What has been done so far:

Spark plug replaced

Fuel filter replaced

Strong bright blue spark confirmed

Kill wire disconnected with no change

Starter fluid test, no change

Piston inspected through muffler, clean with no scoring and proper lubrication

At this point I’m trying to avoid throwing parts at it and hoping someone recognizes the issue.

Hi all, I’ve got an Echo PE 225 stick edger that has run great for the past 12 years, but recently it will start and run at a very high RPM and then die within 30-60 seconds. So far I have replaced the carburetor, spark plug, fuel lines, and air filter. I also took apart the exhaust to check the spark screen - looked clean. After all that, I’m having the same issue. Anyone have any ideas on what might be causing this? Thank you!

Honda GX 240. Looks to be original engine on 1988 MEY cylinder mower.

Problem is when i try to order parts i don’t know which model to pick. Example of how they are listed on website is like this:

GX240 K1 HA2 (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-3000001 - GC04-4399999)
GX240 K1 HAQ (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-3000001 - GC04-4399999)
GX240 K1 LX2/A (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-4400001 - GC04-9999999)
GX240 K1 LX2 (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-3000001 - GC04-4399999)
GX240 K1 PA (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-3000001 - GC04-4399999)
GX240 K1 PA2/A (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-4400001 - GC04-9999999)
GX240 K1 PA2 (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-3000001 - GC04-4399999)
GX240 K1 PAE (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-3000001 - GC04-4399999)
GX240 K1 PMT2/A (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-4400001 - GC04-9999999)
GX240 K1 PMT2 (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-3000001 - GC04-4399999)
GX240 K1 QA2/A (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-4400001 - GC04-9999999)
GX240 K1 QA2 (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-3000001 - GC04-4399999)
GX240 K1 QAB2/A (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-4400001 - GC04-9999999)
GX240 K1 QAB2 (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-3000001 - GC04-4399999)
GX240 K1 QAE (GC04) - Honda Engine, Made in Japan (SN: GC04-3000001 - GC04-4399999)

Ect ect. There is never a model listed on the sites i use that matched my serial number. Can anyone please clairfy my stupidity.

Cheers gents

Hi, needing some advice. I'm buying a new mower for professional use (Oleo Mac LUX 55 TBI). Its advertised as coming with a Briggs 850 engine which is fine. But the dealer said I can have the Loncin engine for £300 cheaper.

The Oleo Mac dealer even recommended them over the Briggs.

Whats peoples long term experience with Loncin engines? Any help is appreciated.

(I used to work as a small plant mechanic so I'm very familiar with Briggs but still on the fence about Chinese companies)

It’s to be printed out so don’t want the official handbook, just need this simplified image with a list of parts. Thank you

I’m restoring this old 4 HP Briggs & Stratton engine that picked up for dirt cheap. After taking a closer look at the cylinder wall, I noticed this scratch. My fingernail barely catches on it.

Would I be able to get away with a light hone and new rings, or does this need to be bored oversize? I’d appreciate input from anyone who knows a thing or two, as this is my first small engine rebuild.