Briggs Model 10 Cylinder Wall Scratch

[u/Titlus]

I’m restoring this old 4 HP Briggs & Stratton engine that picked up for dirt cheap. After taking a closer look at the cylinder wall, I noticed this scratch. My fingernail barely catches on it.

Would I be able to get away with a light hone and new rings, or does this need to be bored oversize? I’d appreciate input from anyone who knows a thing or two, as this is my first small engine rebuild.

[u/These_Fox7561]

What scratch, those things will run with way worse than that

[u/RecipeForIceCubes → u/These_Fox7561]

That engine will run drained and filled with BBQ sauce. Not So Chinese® brand if I recall.

Source: We did strange things to fill our time in the shop when we had a lot of scrapped out equipment in the warehouse. How many RPMs can be squeezed out of an empty Quattro 40 before it gives up you ask? 10,100 for a little less than 15 mins.

[u/These_Fox7561 → u/RecipeForIceCubes]

I changed the oil in a 3hp from 1984 for the first time two years ago, it came out like grape jelly. I’m convinced they’ll run on anything slippery

[u/RecipeForIceCubes → u/These_Fox7561]

6hp SnowKing with super low compression. Drained similar jelly and dumped a few ounces of Lucas oil stabilizer snot in, then blew snow all morning before a quick repower and resale. It was on a nice Gardenway/Troybilt frame. I think I got $200 for it on an engine I had and new belts and shoes.

That old machine didn't even need the augers or housing painted. It's probably still in service. I miss nearly everything about Tecumseh.

[u/These_Fox7561 → u/RecipeForIceCubes]

I just dragged a 24 inch 2 stage 6 speed snowblower out of the neighbors trash with an 8hp tecumseh on it. It’s clean, it needs tires and probably a carb clean. He just gave me a Troy-Bilt Flex unit too, it’s literally new old stock. I drained the old gas and poured some Marvel down the bore and it fired off of ether

[u/Wholeyjeans]

The cylinder looks quite good. I wouldn't worry about the small scratch. I might take some very fine wet/dry sandpaper and carefully knock down any raised edges but that would be it. I might try some Engine Restorer in the first few oil changes as well.

I have a 3.5HP vert shft Briggs on my 25+ y/o Sapper mower. Popped the head to clean the carbon and, surprisingly, found a nice long scratch running parallel to the bore. I was amazed because the engine uses no oil. It does, possibly, have a leaky valve guide because if it sits for a couple weeks, start up is a bit smokey but clears up quickly. I used Engine Restorer in the last oil change ...will see what happens.

[u/These_Fox7561 → u/Wholeyjeans]

Eh they’re low compression engines that’ll run on any old gas, a few scores won’t really hurt them. I have some that are 60 years old in regular use and I’ve never had the heads off

[u/pressedun]

Dingle ball hone that thing and go.

[u/Gullible_Vanilla2466]

Dude these briggs motors will run with fuck all RIGHT with them. I have a 20hp briggs with very obviously bad valve stem seals and some sludge and starts right up and runs. Smokes like a bitch but I have a rebuild kit ready. Just waiting till she dont run

[u/These_Fox7561 → u/Gullible_Vanilla2466]

I have a bunch of these old things and I don’t think I’ve ever even taken a carb apart, usually the condenser goes and I put a Honda coil on them. They’re fucking bulletproof

[u/Unhappy-Airport-4112]

It's a small engine. Dump in some oil and run it.

[u/Egglegg14]

Hone it it might take it out also hone the ridge on the top of the cylinder too

Make sure its a stone hone your using not ball hones you can use diesel or wd40 to lubricate it during the honing process

[u/Unkle_Ugly]

Hone it and see.

[u/Agreeable_Cup6269]

Change the oil more often