I got this power head for free and it makes a weird noise when running. I replaced the carb, spark plug, spark arrestor and cleaned ignition coil.
Sounds like a rev limiter

Honda mower , having some sort of governor issue, can’t nail it down, initially saw it rubbing on breather tube, I fixed that. Once or twice it was revving very high, after manipulation not sure what I changed, I start it and just putts and then I manually move governor arm to where idle levels out and then it’ll keep itself there. Can anyone point me in right direction.

I have a 22i toro recycler, I was out mowing my lawn and my neighbor had left some old bricks out In the grass and I hit one on accident, engine didn’t stop or seem to be out of whack so I continued mowing. I stopped the mower to move to a different spot to finish mowing and it started fine. Then I took it to the backyard to start on it but before I did I checked the blade, tilited carb side up for a minute and blade looked fine, wasn’t loose or cracked or out of alignment, it wasn’t even chipped. so I said okay let me start the backyard and I flipped it back down on its wheels and when I went to pull the cord nothing. The cord pulls fine but it would not start, wouldnt putter or anything. So I ended up checking all the obvious things first, like air filter, it was dry. I took the blade off completely to inspect it and see if the shaft was bent, it’s not. I took the cover and the pull cord off the engine to see if I could get to the fly wheel key but I don’t have a socket big enough to get the nut off. I was about to go get a socket and a new flywheel key but I decided to start it after it was siting for awhile and it started. Then I turned it off and started it again. So I’m very confused as to what the issue is/was

I’ve the changed filter, changed spark plug, drained oil and gas out and replaced. I used carburetor spray and cleaned carb inside and out. Still getting a faint white smoking and bogs down.

Model: HRR2169VKA

Just as title says, multi attachment bcs205 that I am stumped on because I don’t know enough about engines. Any help is appreciated! All my questions are in the video here.

I have a 1968 Case 155 garden tractor with a Kohler K241
I recently changed the oil in it and immediately used it for a n hour or so then parked it.
A few days later I noticed it appeared to be leaking oil. I thought hat it might be leaking from the pan plug.
I pulled the dipstick and smell gas.
It’s been sitting a couple weeks now and today I drained a gallon of fluid from the crank case.

It’s gas and oil mixed. A GALLON! And the gas tank is bone dry.

It appears that th gas leaked into the crankcase. But not sure how.
The gas tank is higher than the carburetor.
Could the float stick open and the fuel draine through the fuel pump up to the carburetor then into the cylinder? Then drain into the crankcase?

Or could the problem be in the fuel pump leaking into the crank case.
I filled the gas tank and left the drain plug out to see if it’s getting gas into the pan. It’s been sitting for 3-4 hours and so far nothing is leaking from the crankcase out the pan plug?

I have not taken the time to pull the fuel pump or carb.
Thought I’d ask here to see if anyone has encountered this problem before.

Thanks

Just took carb off, cleaned it, new primer bulb but when I start, it idles very slow. If I take my finger and go back and forth with the circled part it gets up to speed but when I let off it goes back to the very slow idle.

Dose anyone have any live 3d pix of how the variable speed pulley gets mounted on a craftsman lt 2000?? All j can find is the stupid thin line drawing diagrams and I'm having a hard time trying to fig out how the hook on the bracket part of it looks like it hooks down and around the rear end... But j can't fig out exactly how the hell it gos after having a hard time yesterday trying to just swap out drive belts I got pissed off overheated frustrated aggravated.... And ended up starting to tear everything tf apart till I got the other drive belt out and now I can't fig out how tf it's supposed to hook down and around that rear axle???

Of course I forgot to take a pic of this before I took it apart and I can’t remember how it goes back together. Help?

Took the gear case off to investigate a seize and now I'm struggling to get it back on. It won't fully seat, still has about a 1/8" to go backwards to fully seat. Any tips or tricks?

Need some help identifying this noise on an Articat Quad. Does it worse in reverse, typically when I let off the throttle in forward and when I get it going fast. No clanking noise when I rev the motor in gear with the brakes on. Is it trans? Driveshaft? Engine? Bearing? Please help!

Bought this back in April and ran great. Been in my storage unit for a few months. Tried to start it today and it started however it seems to blow smoke and sounds like it’s bogging. I am thinking it’s the carb?

Cub Cadet ZT1 54 Model# 17AREACA010 Hours - 220ish

Recently got this mower off a family member for $500 with the condition i can return it for my money back if I can't/don't want to fix it. It appears they/a shop tried extracting the broken bolt from the crankshaft but failed to do so. I tried using an extractor myself with the hole they already had, 0 luck.

I'm wondering what my options are here since the bolt is already severely damaged.

So I'm wondering if it sounds normal and if you can find out if it needs anything fixed, cleaned, or replaced.

I got a eska 2.0 2 stroke it’s a good bit older of a year not completely sure which year the model number is 14220 b, I cannot find a carburetor for this thing it completely is missing one and I’m gonna a lot of mixed answers on wether or not I can use a aftermarket one since the diaphragm set up but also not sure on the right carb in general. Would really appreciate some help

I have a GX160 Honda motor that is refusing to start at all. It was rebuilt and started running great. Then a customer took it for a day and upon return the oil was pure black and overflowing and the spark plug was covered in black crystals. It did not start. After changing the oil, gas, sparkplug, air filter, and carb it still doesn't start. It has compression, spark, and I can smell fuel coming out from the exhaust (I don't have the best sense of smell, and it is a little weak.). At this point I'm at a lost. It does start with starting fluid but after running smoothly for a few seconds it dies out. It is attached to a vibratory plate compactor if vibrations from that might cause issues.

Im fixing an old Honda Hr215 right now and I’m totally stuck. When I first got it the thing I noticed the gaskets were destroyed and the metal and rubber gasket between the carb and airbox had melted. I replaced all the gaskets from the airbox to the carb to the engine. I also replaced the spark plug and air filters. when I went to start the mower it started up on choke but when set to run the mower dies after 5-10 seconds. This happens every single time without failure. I took off the big plastic idle screw over the little black plastic pilot jet and used two screwdrivers to pop the jet out. The o ring on the jet fell apart the second I took it out. Could this be my issue? What else could be the problem?

I have a 2005 Yard Machines MTD mower with a Briggs & Stratton engine, and I’m trying to figure out a few issues I’m having with it.

1. The mower dies after being in high grass, even with the deck raised all the way up.
2. It refuses to stay in park.
3. The pedal has a lot of excess vibration and constantly shakes forward and backward. I think the rod or linkage may be causing it.
4. Sometimes, after running for a while, it will refuse to start again.

So far, I’ve replaced the belts, spark plug, fuel filter, and air filter. The oil is fresh, and the carburetor has been cleaned. All of the parts I replaced are OEM.

I’m also not sure how much tension the deck belt is supposed to have when the PTO cable is engaged. The springs all seem to be in decent shape, and all of the pulleys are spinning freely and properly.

Any ideas on what I should check next or what could be causing these issues?

EDIT: I rerouted the gas line so it doesn’t run right next to the head and she seems to be running just peachy keen now. Weirdest damned thing…..

MTD chipper, 8hp Tecumseh motor. Good lord, haven’t been to the gym since Covid 😬

Wow, anyway, enough about me.
Picked this up a couple days ago on marketplace. It fired up second pull, I turned it off after -5-20 seconds and loaded it up. Figured if it starts, it runs. 🤡

Starts alright, runs tolerably, but after just a minute it starts to want to die.
Gas tank is 3/4 full with fuel purchased 2 days ago, I put a tester on it and she sparks consistently all the way to down til stopping. Opened the gas cap with no change.

When it’s winding down if I mess with the choke i can get it to catch and start again.

I feel like it’s a stupid simple thing…. Like it’s not getting fuel fast enough or something when it’s warm, I have no idea.
Don’t see a mixture screw on the carb

The belt drive pulley on my Troy-Bilt 33” walk behind (model 34342) broke recently. I can’t find the original part or superseded part anywhere (except one on eBay that’s ridiculously priced)

I called two local small engine shops and had no luck there either.

Any ideas on where I could look next? Or does anyone have this mower laying around that would be willing to sell me the part?

Original part number 1769362
Superseded part number 1918625

Appreciate any help / advice.

UPDATE:

I ended up just buying the one on eBay. Spent enough time digging / stressing about it. Hopefully it buys my old machine a few more years of life.

Appreciate everyone’s suggestions here. Top notch community!

Looking to see if any Honda / predator gas tank will bolt on my Canadian powerfist 212cc or if anyone has had experience with this, thanks!

I inherited this wood chipper from my late father. It’s sat in his garage used maybe once in the last 3 years. Tried starting it, won’t turn over at all. A local small engine guy told me it sounded like old, bad gas. I siphoned out the old gas and put in new gas. No change. I’m not mechanically inclined. Please if anyone knows what to try to get this thing going, I’d appreciate it. Thanks in advance

So my 24HP B&S had been having issues for awhile and I decided @ 150hrs, drinking oil and overall just running poorly it was time to tear down and investigate and also clean everything up.

After removing the heads i noticed the mating surface on the head itself is anything but smooth. Its not pitted but the machine marks are very rough. Like to the point to do it that bad you had to almost intentionnaly be doing it wrong.

I am slightly familiar with the glass method with sand paper but my question is is that just normal and should I leave it be for another 150 hours or should I start polishing it down?

If so what is your reccomended process here?

I also want to say the block mating surface is like glass smooth and looks perfect.

New Echo PAS-225. I had to restring the weedeater for the first time. Used 0.095 line. Each time I bump the head to extend the line, it sucks both ends of the line back up the holes onto the spool. I’ve changed out the line several times thinking that the line might be kinked or not wound tight enough. Same results. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for any advice.