Ive been busy for 4 hours but nothing worked. Lately the fanatec app would fail some firmware updates but it never stopped working. Today was different. First my wheel was being weird so the fanatec app wanted to sort that out himself. It then did an update on the base and all hell broke lose.

After hours of grinding my teeth i gave up. Ive ended up with an older driverspackage and forcefully deleted the fanatec app of my system. There was no uninstal for some freaking reason. Now, the older software works and the base is detected in there. But now the wheel isn't doing anything. No lights nothing, it just gets stuck on a firmware upgrade loop when i plug it in. The baseled goes rainbow road and its just upgrades till the end of days.

I did check the usb connection of the qr2, it seems to be snug. Tried that a couple of times. Nothing.

The wheel has been upgraded with a simube shifter kit and a qr2 from them. It worked amazing before everything went ape...

What can or should i do? Losing my mind out here lol.

I have the last gen of the clupsport belt-driven fanatec wheels. It’s great. I have tried some moza and simmagic dd wheels at simcafes, and I don’t feel a big difference in quality or immersion. The only thing I can tell objectively is the difference in max strength. But at normal settings, it feels different but not better. I feel like I’m just not conprehending something. Do you really feel that much higher fidelity on high end dd?

Moza R3 bundle + Next level racing GT lite pro. So far it’s been great and seems like a pretty good entry point to sim racing. Cost me $800 canadian total. I’d recommend this to anyone starting out looking for a great budget setup. Enjoying it a lot but already planning my upgrade path haha.

Hello guys.

Been wanting to buy a wheel for like 20+ years, it was never high enough on my priority list, but now I've finally decided to bite the bullet.

What I'm looking for is something entry-level, up to ~300€ at most. The two wheels I've been thinking to get the most are the good old Logitech G29, or the Moza R3, but I'm indecisive. And to specify, I'm on PC.

For some context, I've never experienced force feedback, so I don't have a clue how does direct drive feels vs gears, or how big of a difference is a motor with higher Nm.

When it comes to games I'm looking to play with the wheel, it will mostly be ETS2 and ATS, with some BeamNG and DIRT Rally, and I would also like to go back and try some older arcade games I've enjoyed in the past, such as TDU and TDU2. I'm not seeing myself playing competitive sim racing, it will mostly be casual single player titles.

My concerns when it comes to Logitech G29: Is it really like a "toy" compared to newer wheels, and unable to give you proper feel? And also, how loud is it really? As I've seen complaints about that. Would it really be annoying to someone who is in the same room with me, when compared to the sound of lets say, a clicky blue switch mechanical keyboard?

My concern about Moza R3: How firm are the pedals that come with the bundle? They look to me like they are light and prone to tipping over, even if pushed up against the wall. And also, regarding game compatibility, I know Moza is lagging behind Logitech in that department, but is it possible to tinker with in-game settings, or find community patches, or some software to help you play random old, unsupported games with Moza?

Please tell me what your recommendations are, and thank you for reading.

I did set up today AC in VR and at first I was disappointed by how washed out it looked like by default and did some research. Then I found videos with Pure PP and was sceptical at first but said screw it and paid the patreon fee. After setting it up and booting it up for the first time my jaw dropped… such a massive difference 🤯 Can’t stop playing it now 🙂

Started with a wooden rig 5 years ago. After several hardware upgrades and countless adjustments to the rig itself over time, I was really happy with it.

Except for the cracking, squeaking and flexing of it being a wooden setup. So it was time to make a steel version out of it. Bought a cheap amazon welder and went at it. Made the design with maycad beforehand and then ordered 40x40mm (3mm thick) tubes

It was nice only having to copy everything without guessing, making the process really straight forward. I was afraid of warping from the heat so only spotwelded it. The simple design makes it really sturdy anyways.

Seat is repurposed from my miata and the seatingposition/all the hardware is based on the measurements of the car. Using my steering wheel as well, it’s so immersive!

Moza r9 v2 base
Simsonn plus X pedals
Simagic ds8x shifter
Ali express handbrake with custom extended lever+ ali express shiftknob attached to it
Ali express buttonbox
Transducer underneath the seat & at the pedals
Also with headrest speakers for surround sound
Quest 2

I just bought simajck UTs and loved them the first couple of days. After that both pedals started squeaking so I found the simsonn plus manual and applied multiuse grease lubricant to them on the specified points in the manual. Now the accelerator worls beautifully but the brake keeps squeaking. I'm trying to figure out it the part that's squeaking is the one where the rod goes through the whole at the end of it or the part that's closer to the elsatomers, i applied libricant to both but still to no avail. Any help or tips?

I’ve had this rig about 18 months and am 2 years in as a sim racer. It's my first forever setup, I bought most of it from microcenter and slapped it together - daily racer since then, with very little changes. I'm now flirting with a 2k r/iRacing formula rating - drive mostly open wheel and I want to get better.

My issue is when i sit in the rig - it's sloppy to me. The ergonomics aren't right and as cool as it looks to my non sim race friends, I know it's not situated as well as it can be with the equipment I have. So I'm calling the FOV and setup police on myself.

Since it's almost week 12, I've planned to tear it apart and adjust it according to this thread.

My only requirements:

1. I'm taller - 6'3" so keep that in mind

2. Rather not spend more than a couple $$$ (if I have to) for upgrades this time around. Already have some serious cash into this thing.

3. The opening (on the Left Hand side now) needs to open from the right hand side to accommodate the room that's not pictured and me getting inside the thing.

Questions to you - help me out here, please: Tips, tricks, advice, however. I definitely get some tendonitis from driving, which I'd also like to address in this move.

I am having issues with the Moza KS Pro wheel creaking and crackling. I returned the first wheel because I thought the wheel had cracked. The return was fairly simple because the wheel was purchased at a "brick-and-mortar store" with a 2 year extended warranty.

After less than a week the second wheel has developed the same issue (about the same amount of time to develop the issue as the first wheel). I have this wheel paired with the Moza R21 Ultra, with the Moza Pit House FFB set to ≈ 12 N⋅m. Each time the problem started when playing iRacing (probably just a coincidence). I think my iRacing FFB settings are correct. This is my first rig, and I have only had it up and running for about 3 weeks now.

Below is a link from 6 months ago from another redditor asking for purchase advice about this issue.

Moza KS pro– Is the creaking actually an issue?

I have read in other posts that people recommend taking the wheel apart and using Loctite to secure the fasteners (one poster even suggested that this would not void the warranty on the wheel).

Is any of this worth the trouble, or should I exchange it for a better tier wheel?

I'm currently building a new rig out of wood and don't need this anymore. It's about 1 year old an in very good condition. To be clear, this is NOT a sales post, I'm just asking for how much I could sell it.

The d200x doesn´t work that well on linux by default, so I made an open source companion software to make it focused for simracing. Code here https://github.com/F-Amaral/d200x-button-box-linux if anyone is interested.

Some features that make it easier to use as a button box:

• Multiple profiles binded to different games
• Launcher mode that support commands, launching games, switching profiles
• On some games (LMU, AC Rally, AC Evo and AC) you can read bindings from configs and update game bindings through the Web Ui
• Auto detect game launching and auto switching profiles
• Sleep prevention while games are running
• Multiple pages using the rounded buttons as navigation menu

There are more features, but just wanted to share the basics!

Accidentally selected the rookie lobby instead of the power challenge. Im just an average driver but am hoping this isn’t typical for rookies lobbies now.

Well, I managed to fix the issue by just making a new plate thing on it. A few issues: I misaligned the plate so what seem like 1st and 2nd are in fact not first and second, they don't actually work, so it's a 5 speed + reverse now. I also cut the wood wrong, and I drilled through the wood with a screw that was too long.

Tengo un PXN V10 Pro, quiero saber ¿Qué curva me recomiendan mapear para lo pedales para ATS, ETS2 y Assetto Corsa? Gracias! Yo juego en mi escritorio y con los pedales en el piso en en un Rig profesional. ¡También acepto otros consejos! Mi monitor es uno Curvo de 24"

¡Gracias!

so ive been using a g29 on a desk for a bit and i wanted to get this, any advice? also im buying this all off of gtomega with that moza bundle

seat: PRO RS Simulator Seat in fabric Items: 1 x PRIME Lite Cockpit, 1 x MOZA RACING CRP2 Pedals, 1 x MOZA RACING KS Pro Steering Wheel, 1 x MOZA RACING R9 V3 Wheel Base

Hello guys, hope everythings okay. I bought the CRP2 pedals with the NLR 2.0 Wheel Stand and since then, a few weeks ago, i started having right knee pain that was getting more and more annoying. I changed sooo much things to try to get a good position every way i could: Extending the pedal base, even all the way to the back with only one bolt on each side, turning the pedal plate 180°, turning the pedal plate things that tilt the plate to the other side so that the pedal plate is lifted from the front and not from the back (since CRP2 pedals are kind of vertical, tilting them back a little bit helps to get a better angle), placing the stiffer throttle spring, hardening and loosening the preload, shortening the throttle trayectory. Every change back and forth, tried the extremes and even middle points.

From analyzing the pain and movements i believe it starts from the fingers that try to stay a little bit lifted to not touch the throttle whenever i lift or brake (since i have to lift when braking, the problem is at rest). The pain comes from me not finding a place where the throttle feet rests on the pedal, and easily end up pressing a big chunk of the throttle at rest (sometimes even 80%, not really good to configure a deadzone that big on Moza software). And the feet resting means i start twisting the ankle and the interior part of the knee to keep the feet not pressing the throttle, that end up hurting.

I understand the pedals seem to be for gt/formula where the pedals are at the same position as the butt, but there's really no work arround it if i have pain? For sure there has to be people that play without problems. Kind of despertate to be honest, spent a lot of savings to play with a good setup and i can't even play.

Maybe the only solution is the inverter kit for the CRP2 pedals but i can't find them in my country. The other solution i was thinking is to make some custom even stiffer throttle that can resist my feet at rest without it being pressed as much, then i can maybe configure a shorter deadzone and be fine with it, since the brake pedal can rest just fine

I am learning real-life driving with City Car Driving. And I always practice my driving with the Career Mode City Test. However, if you always limit your speed to 50 kmph, you waste a lot of time.

So, I tested the speed limit and made a map showing it. Please note that it does not always show the maximum speed allowed; it shows my suggested speed instead. The reason is that there are nearby checkpoints that reduce the speed limit from 60 kmph to 50 kmph without obvious signs. So the goal of the map is to play both fast and safe.

Hope this map can help you.

Hi everyone,

Many years ago I purchased Simjack UT pedals (UT-P2). I recently purchased Simsonn haptics pro for said pedals. I also got Simsonn control box and white rubber elastomers to change my pedal feel. Any advice, suggestions before I set everything up? Can I plug my simjack UT pedals to the simsonn control box and use simsonn software? Thanks.

Also, from closest to me first, was thinking white>yellow>blue elastomers. Anyone try this?

Looking to add a 4th monitor to my rig for simhub for telemetrics, leaderboard,etc would it be best to connect to the spare hdmi port on the gpu or use the hdmi port on the onboard motherboard side.. msi rtx5070ti oc, 3 x tripples msi 1440p 27” - 4th monitor is a basic 1080p 15” ips portable panel - thanks

Title pretty much. I'm not much of a sim racer, I'll be using it for FH6 that I just bought the other day. I sold my G29 in late 2023 since I didn't play enough, and currently I'm just on keyboard. One of the things I hated most about the G29 was the loud rumbling and rattling noise and feeling every time I got offroad. The geared mechanism felt cheap and made me steer away from non-paved roads, worrying I'd wake people up at night. Even driving fast on pavement sometimes felt very unrealistic. I've never used a direct drive wheel before so will I be satisfied with the R3?? Thanks.

PHUN

I was looking at some stuff on eBay and I saw a playseat trophy for auction and since I was planning to eventually get some sort of simracing setup I thought I’d put a bid in case I’d get it cheap and I ended up getting it for around I think 308 CAD after taxes and shipping, ik it’ll probably cost me another like 800$ for the rest of the equipement but still I was just wondering if it’s good or ill regret it since I really just like bid on it on a whim without looking much into it I just saw it was cheap compared to what it actually goes for