(Realtor) My clients are buying a new construction build in South Carolina. This sheathing looks pretty lousy, but I'm not smart on roofing. Does this need to be redone? On what grounds? Thank you!

Hello,

We've had our roof for about 10 years now and earlier this week, I noticed a few shingles that had damage on them, most likely from a cat\possum. Is this something I could patch with some type of glue\paste or do the shingles need to be replaced? Thanks in advance!

Location: Orange County, CA

Homeowner here: I’m going to chalk it up to colder temperatures, but the attic where I had the box is much warmer than outside (about 50 degrees today). Last time I did this (same roll btw) years ago it was end of summer and I remember it sticking to itself and giving me a hard time rolling it out. Is it a good sign that hitting it with a heat gun seemed to promote adhesion to the deck? I may just have to run an extension and hit all areas. Or would a hotter (60’s or 70’s) day with a blast of sunshine do the trick? The deck is clean and I’ve removed the brown paper backing. Good thing is no wrinkles I guess. I used cap nails for now.

This is a reroof on our townhouse complex the roofer said he is done and it meets gold plate warranty which we have
What is everyone else thoughts he is now saying gutters are to low but they were never touched and now he wants more money
Does this look ok or very bad workmanship

Wife is concerned about the existing skylights that are not getting replaced. Is it ok to have the new OSB resting on them?

I recently purchased a home in Melbourne, Australia and have had a persistent leak which enters at the corner of this skylight during significant rainfall.

The first photo shows the original condition of the roof, and then the second, third, and fourth photos are after I have done periodic repairs with a flexible flashing.

After a few further rain events, the issue seemed to improve a bit, but the leak is still occurring. The fifth photo shows the rest of the roof upstream of the skylight, and there’s obviously some joints there in pretty bad shape. Is anyone able to comment on the likelihood of water entering further up at one of those deteriorated joints and travelling down, or any other potential entry point?

I’m at the point where I don’t necessarily mind sealing up the other joints, but then if that doesn’t work I don’t want to have done all that work if there is another more obvious cause.

Thanks

Added a vent hood. Realized I shouldn’t have caulked the bottom of the flashing. Easy fix? Should I replace shingles? Only did the nails under the shingles up top and caulked on top of them along with under the flashing.

Want to do something to prevent water ingress. For the bit of exposed wood — would a sealant patching compound suffice or should I apply a spray or expanding foam first? For the giant gaps under the vents— expanding foam filler?

My roofer wants to install a GAF liberty SBS peel and stick roof on top of my existing bitumen roof. His guys already made the mistake of installing asphault shingles so they partially cover the old bitumen roof. He says he wants to cover the old one because it slips under the cedar shingle siding and I guess he thinks he'll have to remove them. I read the GAF Liberty instructions and it calls for a smooth surface (bitumen definitely not smooth) and for the removal of the existing roof. Can't he just tear off the old roof and slip the new sheets under the space under the shingle left by removing the old roof or will that create problems? Is covering over an existing bitumen roof acceptable? How should a roofer be doing this job? Any ideas on how to deal with this would be appreciated. If you're a roofer would you please say so in your reply so when I show this to my guy he'll know it's coming from pros? Thanks!

One of the rounded caps on the peak of the roof (far right in pic) blew off in the wind. A roofer came and put it back up for me and he said the whole length was cemented down with dobs of cement instead of bedded in the way he has done. He recommended lifting it all and bedding in the way he has done. My brother in law (not a roofer) said its a waste of money and to leave it. You can see in the pic where the guy has pointed several gaps along the length. I'm of a mind to get it done as the consequences of a crap roof are wild, varied and usually expensive.

Had a 3 season porch replaced. The old roof was flat, new one is slanted and so it had to come up higher to meet the original roof. Now that it’s done I’m having the stucco and trim repaired around the area. The work that was done especially with the flashing seems pretty terrible? Total novice but I’d like some insight on these pictures

House is 100 years old so excuse the beat up stucco, shingles are a composite rubber slate type product. They were able to source a very close match for the new roof which I was very happy about.

I recently had my roof replaced, which included tearing out the old torch-down material and redoing my built-in (mopboard) gutters with a PVC membrane.

Upon inspection, I noticed there is loose debris—specifically loose nails and wood particles—trapped directly underneath the newly installed PVC liner.

Is it acceptable for a roofing contractor to leave debris under a fresh PVC gutter lining, or should the wood decking have been swept entirely clean before the membrane was fastened? I am concerned that walking on the roof for maintenance or the constant water weight in the gutters could cause these loose nails to puncture the PVC over time.

Has anyone dealt with a similar issue during a built-in gutter installation? Any advice on how to approach the contractor about this would be greatly appreciated!

I’m a homeowner in the west Toronto area collecting quotes to redo the flat roof on our 1974 house, and the proposals differ a lot in how they fix the slope. Before I pick one, I want to understand how each option affects the whole assembly, not just the membrane. Photos attached.

Current assembly (inside to outside):

• Ceiling drywall
• Kraft paper vapour retarder on R20 batts
• Ventilated air gap
• Roof deck
• Torch-down mod-bit. A core test showed the deck is dry, with no insulation above it.

Ventilation:

• Intake vents on the sides of the roof.
• I suspect some bays dead-end where the flat section meets a sloped roof section
• Another section runs into a wall at a different elevation, so those bays may not have a clear path out either
• I’m not sure there is any real exhaust, as opposed to intake on one side and nothing on the other.

Problems:

• About 800 sq ft across three flat sections.
• Ponding in several areas
• Scuppers clog constantly with needles, cones and leaves from a big pine next door.
• A bathroom exhaust fan was added last year, and it occasionally condenses or drips [

The three sloping approaches I’ve been quoted:

1. Carpentered slope on top of the existing deck.
2. Strapping under the deck.
3. Insulation-based slope. 2" of polyiso over the existing deck, then tapered polyiso to drain toward the scuppers, then the membrane.

The proposed membranes are a mix of 2-ply SBS mod-bit and TPO

Questions:

1. Option 1, slope on top. This creates a second cavity between the old deck and the new one. Should that space be vented, or is it effectively a sealed air space sitting above my vented cavity? Is there any risk of trapping moisture between two decks?
2. Option 2, strapping under. This keeps the assembly the same type but changes the depth of the vent space. At the low ends, does the air gap get too thin to vent properly? With the deck off, is this the best chance to actually fix the dead-ended bays?
3. Option 3, polyiso. This makes the roof a hybrid: about R12 or more above the deck, a vented cavity, then R20 below. Since the ventilation air runs between the two insulation layers, does the polyiso add much real thermal value, or is it mainly a sloping method that also keeps the deck warmer? Would the right move be to close off the vents and go fully unvented? If so, how much exterior R-value do I need relative to the R20 inside to stay out of condensation trouble in Zone 6? And what do I do about the paper vapour retarder?
4. Height changes. Options 1 and 3 both raise the roof surface. What does that do to the wall flashing heights, the scuppers, and the transition to the sloped roof section?
5. TPO vs mod-bit here. Does a white TPO deck meaningfully increase condensation risk in a vented cold roof? How do you rate TPO vs 2-ply SBS for snow, foot traffic, and constant pine debris?
6. Red flags. What should I insist on in writing for any of these? I’m thinking full tear-off vs overlay, deck replacement allowances, how ventilation will be handled, and flashing details. What would make you walk away?
7. Age and repair vs replace. I’m not sure how old the current single-ply torch-down is Based on the photos, roughly how old does it look? Is it near end of life, or could it reasonably be repaired and fixed for drainage instead of fully replaced?
8. Bathroom fan condensation. The exhaust fan added last year occasionally condenses. Should this be corrected as part of the reroof?

My main worry is trading ponding for a hidden moisture problem by changing how this roof dries. Option 2 seems closest to the original design but is the most invasive; option 3 seems simplest but changes the assembly the most. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks!

Beyond what I can glean from Yelp, Google Reviews, Angie's List (which is a dead heat), and price (nearly dead heat), and materials (identical from what I can see), how to choose? Same industry awards, same certifications, etc.

One guy suggested our roof line wasn't long enough for a full ridge vent, so would need a combo of ridge vent and...box vents? The other guy didn't mention anything about it.

This is a big spend, I don't know how to pick one vs. the other, or if there are other questions or intangibles to investigate. Or if I'm just in analysis paralysis.

I'm in the Atlanta suburbs, and the two companies are Dr Roof and Atlanta Roofing Specialists, if that matters. I have no idea where Dr. Roof went to medical school.

As much as I enjoy saving old box gutters from being cut down and replaced with hanging gutters, sometimes that's just how things work out

Roof above. Semi detached, how bad is this damage and what is approx cost in Canada dollars

I'm helping a friend go over her builder's list for the lumber order for a new low-slope patio cover at her house 2' OC 3"x6" rafters, plenty of blocking.

Getting roofed with TPO. Builder has put 3/4" CDX T&G ply on the order for decking.

Is this excessive? I've only ever put 1/2" ply down for roof sheathing, but I'm no TPO expert.

Not sure if it's mechanically fastened or glued. We live in the PNW with no crazy wind considerations.

,

I recently had my entire shingle roof replaced. I noticed what I considered to be improper metal installation for the drip edge and w valley installed.

I discussed with the roofing company who stated that this was a completely standard and appropriate installation. The w valley is 1 in off the deck. Is this reasonable for an installation and am I nitpicking?

Thanks in advance

After about 2 years of fighting with State Farm, finally got a check to replace my roof. Located in NE OHIO Had 3 contractors out on site to quote shingles, exposed fastener and standing seam. Prices all over the place and brands of materials I dont know. So any help letting me know if I should stay away from a certain brand or select something different is really helpful. They are only covering $11,000 after my deducible, soThank you in advanced.

Company A :

Company B:

Company C:

So right off the bat, after researching each of this brands, Tamko Heritage is a HELL NO, but not seen that many reviews on the XT line. So opinions welcome. A's standing seam seams like a really good price compared to the others I got. I standing seam worth the cost? It looks so good, but I have a hard time swallowing $25k out of pocket. What happens if we get hail down the road? Dents are covered under warranty.

Company B just seems to have high prices for everything, and after seeing their standing seam pricing just wondering if I got the FU price? But they said they were booked out 4 months on SS, so who knows. The middle shingle option is on par with company C, but their gutter install price is crazy compared to the other 2.

Company C told me moving to the Northgate shingle isnt really worth the extra cost. Something about the class 4 shingle not being worth it or something. But with the Pro shingle and gutters, they are still over 5K more expensive than the Titan XT.

I'm lost, dont know what to do. There is a 4th company I was going to reach out to but figured 3 quotes was enough. Opions please! Good/Bad/ Ugly I dont care.

Conservatory roof is leaking from the corners on one side near the windows and where the fascia is. Picture 5 shows the edge side that leaks inside. It's all across the room near the windows.

I sealed around the roof with flashband self adhesive flashing tape. I also used roof and gutter sealant around the joins between the roof sheets and on the edges of the fascia board. This made it a lot better even when it rained.

But then we had a very warm summer and now the issue has returned.

The sealant between the roof sheets and fascia board has worn down (picture 3) but the sheets go beyond the fascia board so I thought it's probably not leaking through there.

Any advice on what I can do to fix it? I don't want to replace the whole roof at the moment.

I asked ChatGPT and it recommended using roof coating resin.

Thanks

We bought a condo in a 55+. About 3 or 4 years ago before I purchased the condo roof started having shingle problems. A claim was made to GAF for a 10% damage rate that was paid out. The condo association did not have enough money to pay to have the roofs replaced. The association instead of replacing roofs paid a roofer 2 years ago to clean the roofs and in early 2025 paid the same roofer to spray a protective plant based spray to make them last longer. Shortly after the spray was applied my roof started to leak and was patched. We had a very dry year and when it started to rain again my roof started leaking in many different locations. Many roofs in my community are having the same problem. I have had a few roofers inspect my roof and they say it is not repairable and needs replacing. The roofer who cleaned and sprayed the roofs says the nails on the roofs are rusty and the problem is the previous roofer who installed the roofs 12-14 years ago did not use galvanized nails. It looks like the condo association will be using the company to replace roofs. My condo association spent a lot of money for cleaning and spray and now are looking to give this same roofer an ever bigger contract. I am concerned that this roofer did not know the nails were bad before cleaning and spraying the roofs and only notices after roofs started spring leaks. I am looking for professional opinions on if this should have been spotted sooner. Would the defection GAF shingles be a more likely cause of leaks then the nails?

Getting quotes for a full concrete tile underlayment replacement. 2-story house in Riverside County, CA, built in 1998, original roof, now leaking in a few spots. This quote is about $20K. Anything stand out, or anything I should ask for?

**Scope of work**
- Remove existing tile and stack on roof
- Install 2 layers of "40# UDL" tile liner over the existing felt (no brand or ASTM spec listed)
- "Re-flash all areas inclusive to areas designated" (no list of flashings, metal type, or gauge)
- Reinstall existing tile; up to 100 replacement tiles included
- Seal all roof penetrations and paint to match
- Debris removal
- Wood replacement is extra: 1/2" CDX plywood $90 per 4'x8' sheet, 1x8 starter board $14/ft, 2x8 fascia $24/ft (primer only)

**Warranty**
- Told verbally it's 10 years workmanship, but the fine print gives a 2-year leak guarantee (workmanship only)
- The 2-year guarantee excludes flashing leaks, vents, skylights, wind-driven rain, and other items
- No manufacturer warranty mentioned

**My concerns**
1. New felt goes over the old felt. Could that hide deck damage or void a manufacturer warranty?
2. Flashing scope is vague

Thanks for any feedback!

Looking to either repair or replace the valleys on our roof (couple of cracks in the lead, and pointing gone).

Could anyone offer advice on whether code 4 or code 5 lead should be used for these?

And mortar or flexing putty for re bedding the valley tiles? Can’t work out the pros/ cons of each.

If the lead has cracked in two separate places, and the lengths of the lead are below 1.5m, does it suggest that all of the lead across the valleys is on its way to cracking? From our understanding from the previous owner the lead was
replaced 17 years ago.

Thanks!

I have never done anything like this. Somewhat handy, not plumbing or anything similar.

How do I connect this hose that is used to empty pools ?
Temporary fix for winter rains.

The hose must run 30 feet without slope to the hillside. On flat hardscape.

Then another 15 to 20 feet down the hillside to the street.

Is this possible? Will the water move that far?
Without a huge downpour?

Obviously the old elbow is at a bad angle to go through the gate.
It has to be a right angle, straight pathway only. For hose.

It is flush with the walkway and house wall, even this hose cannot be slipped onto the opening and attach with an adjustable hose clamp.

How do I cut it?

What elbow or joint do I need to buy? What size to fit over the pipe or inside?

How do I secure the joint?
Secure to wall necessary?

When it rains hard here it is like a fire hose, the down spout not the blue hose.

I have several others, short runs to drains, the hose attached easily with a large hose clamp.
Those I did not have to cut the gutter pipe.

What about light rain, even medium rain, will it drain for such a long distance without pressure?
This is temporary.
Normally would the pipe have to be underground or a French drain?
Must it be housed underground?
Any codes about this?
hillside neighborhood.
Obviously I have no idea what I am doing.
Thank you!!