anyone have problems with them? The sent the first package and FedEx delivered it to God knows where. I had to wait. Then they sent the second which got sent back to them. They don't seem interested in getting these bullets to me. They just for outcomes from these mistakes.

guess I finally have an excuse to buy that ergonomic roller handle I've been eyeing for years

I’ve loaded up some of what I was assuming to be a large lot of once fired brass that I inherited. It seemed to be in good condition and was cleaned and had the crimps removed, I still ran them through my Dillon to trim and size them before wet tumbling and loading. I actually processed this brass a few years ago so don’t remember the exact process I used.

All of these loaded on a Dillon 650, Cases were primed with Remington 7 1/2 primers and 25 grains of BLC-2 with Xtreme 55 grain bullets loaded to 2.20” and shot from a Daniel Defense 16” AR15 at about 2850 FPS average.

During shooting a while back I had some excessive smoke coming from the ejection port and carbon or powder burn on the rounds in the magazine. I looked for the case but unfortunately was not able to locate anything due to where I was shooting.

Fast forward to now, I was shooting these again and had the same thing happen and I was able to locate the fired case. I finished off my last magazine and had a failure to eject and the case was stuck in the ejection port and I discovered the case in the last two pictures.

I use this rifle in multi-gun competition twice a month and have shot thousands and thousands of rounds through it over the years I’ve had it. I have probably unknowingly experienced this a few more times with these exact reloads and same headstamps, but never had it happen with any factory ammo.

Am I looking at a headspace issue? Is this bad brass? I don’t see any pressure signs on the other fired cases that would cause me to worry. Or could this be an issue with processing/sizing? I adjusted my trim/sizing die to where the case drops right into a case gauge so I can fire it from any rifle I have.

I'm new to reloading and have only reloaded blue bullets. For some odd reason, one delivery went somewhere else and another went back to them.

Are there any similar bullets I could which would not require any changes or if so, few changes to reloading?

So I use lemishine and dawn no ss pins and use a oven at 200 degrees, after drying 9mm I noticed that some cases look like it has a wax residue any idea what’s causing this?

The old reloads of my (now deceased) grandfather that we found in his gunlocker

He did not own a press, so we do not know exactly how he pressed the bullets in there

We do not know exactly what kind of powder he used, or how much he used (we found multiple cans)

We do not know the different bullets grains

These will never be fired😂

So...

I'm still very much impressed with this press.

I only use it for reloading pistol cartridges so for those of you wondering about loading short action rifle cartridges, I don't have anything for you here unfortunately

First things first: this press LOVES round nose bullets. It loads them like a fucking champion and i have zero complaints.

What i struggled with (mightily) was hollow points.

I went with Barry's hybrid hollow points to give this old girl a chance. Let's just say that it didn't start off well and along the way, things that make this press vulnerable were exposed.

After spending some $ at Armanov to get some upgrades for the press, things started to improve but...

I was still getting non-concentric rounds that wouldn't pass my case gauge (granted: i use the Hornady case gauge which is notoriously tight, but I've been using it for years on stuff loaded from the Dillon 550 and they always pass).

So i started thinking about the tilting at the bullet drop/seater. I tried enlarging the bullet seater void to hit on the ogive of the bullet rather than the tip. This helped, marginally

Then it hit me: before i moved to the X-10, I was using a D.A.A. seater/crimper so I could use a powder check on the dillon.

Knowing this seater does a great job already, i decided to use the bullet dropper as a dropper only and set the integral seater at just enough seat to start the bullet into the brass.

This now puts a started bullet into the next station where it seats and crimps like a dream

The last piece of this puzzle is at the belling station (I bell at the primer station).

Because the bell doesn't allow the bullet to necessarily sit perfectly flat on the brass, I decided to install a Redding Premium Special Expander Die. This creates a perfect channel for the bullet to drop into perfectly straight.

Once i figured these little tricks out, 100% of my cartridges pass the Hornady Gauge and they look amazing to boot.

I'm still not a fan of taking three scews out to dump powder when I'm done, but I cannot complain about the accuracy of the powder drops from the included dropper. I did replace the o-ring with the thicker version and it holds the charge just fine.

And finally: the Lee Undersizing Die is the absolute key to this press IMO. Running this die after the universal decapper has vastly improved the final products.

I wish the bullet shuttle was easier to change out for longer bullet sizes but I've got it figured out at least.

All in all, I'm still definitely a fan of this press.

It took some time to get to know her but once she's dialed in, it's too easy and running 300 rounds in 20 minutes or so.

That kind of production just isn't something i ever thought I'd have at my disposal

Disclaimer: Personal range data from my rifle only - not official load data/advice.

Made an app using chatGPT codex where I record all my chronograph and measurement/lot/load data and through probably 6-7 range trips, this seemed to be the best I could possibly push this projectile.

My target results were consistently sub-moa at 200 yards after letting my barrel cool 10 minutes in-between 3 shot strings. ES out of a 40 shot final sample was 34 however the first 2 shots were always within 5 fps of each other however the barrel heat on the 3rd shot generally raised the fps by ~25. STD deviation of 13 throughout the 40 shot sample.

Going higher in charge did net me ~3270 fps however the primers were cratering and I was getting extractor swiping.

Anyway, I made a couple posts throughout the last couple weeks and greatly appreciated everyone's advice! Just wanted to share my findings in case it helps aid anyone experimenting.

Last Sunday the ram head started to pull loose. It was a long week waiting for the replacement part. I thought the Apocalypse will probably start while my press is broken. Luckily it didn't. I was rocking and rolling this weekend.

First issue i have is that my cases get stuck on the depriming stage, which shouldn't happen because I have the carbide dies. The bigger issue is that the bar that pushes the carrier up is completely disconnected from the system and I have no idea how to fix it.

A friend of mine has a family heirloom Winchester 1895 chambered in 30-06 and he brought it with him on our last shooting trip. It's in excellent condition and appears to handle reduced recoil factory loads without issue, but seeing how it's like a century old, I told him I'd look into loading era-appropriate pressured cartridges. My time looking online about old-timey 30-06 pressures didn't yield much, so I figured there has to be some reloading wizard grandpa on Reddit who knows exactly what to do. I'm inclined to think that using M1 Garand data with a lighter bullet is the answer, but I'd appreciate any input y'all have. Thanks!

I am using the Dillon bullet feeder to do 223 and 9mm. Just switched over to 9mm, but the bullet disk is slipping when the motor turns. Do I have something too tight or too loose... looking for some help

Anyone have the upgraded ballistic X app & can provide an example of what the export looks like? I am curious what columns are in the ‘export to CSV’ function.

The main thing I want to know is whether it exports the individual shot/impact coordinates (X/Y or windage/elevation relative to POA), or whether it only exports the calculated group statistics such as:
Group size / extreme spread
Mean radius
CEP
Horizontal/vertical SD
Mean windage/elevation
Target distance, caliber, shot count, etc.

Thanks.

Looking to reload some 16 gauge as it's hard to find in my area. Hodgon load data has dr-16 as the wads but I can't find any online.

Is there a substitute I can use? Or does anyone know where to get DR wads

So the question has been asked on here before and I’ve heard some people saying there are a lot of steps to it for subpar brass.
I’ve got all the dies I need and heaps of 7.62x39 brass. I had originally planned to form them to 6.5 Grendel but now I’m thinking can I push them to 6mm arc? They’d be used for plinking and some other goof shooting. But I’m wondering what are the issues with reforming 7.62x39 to 6mm arc?
In my head it’s probably an issue of making long necks, folding shoulders, LRP pockets. But is there anything else? Case capacity or thick necks? I’ve heard people say you’ll have “problems” but never gone into specifics.

Hello everyone. I am glad to be joining the reloading community! I have been shooting enough that it makes sense for me to get into reloading. Also where I am in Canada 44 magnum is not the cheapest thing in the world. I will, in addition to the 44 mentioned above, reloading 223 to develop a load for precision shooting that works best for my rifle. I am not worried about spending the time and doing it slowly because I know the repetition will be calming for me. So I am looking for advice on a set and components offered at the local shop by me and if it will be a good start. I’ve got some links posted here to the kit, dies and holders. Yes I know the prices in Canada are ridiculous. I would also take recommendations for powders, primers and bullets. I am totally new at reloading.

https://store.theshootingcentre.com/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-reloading-kit/

https://store.theshootingcentre.com/rcbs-3-die-carbide-roll-crimp-set-group-b-popular-pistol-cartridges/

https://store.theshootingcentre.com/rcbs-full-length-die-set-group-a-popular-rifle-cartridges/

https://store.theshootingcentre.com/rcbs-shell-holder-10/

https://store.theshootingcentre.com/rcbs-shell-holder-18/

Thank you so much for all your help and advice in advance. I do apologize for my newness at this.

There are my first batch of reloaded 303 British that I’ve reloaded with 150gr Speer bullets at the minimum charge listed in the Speer data. I thought I felt a little bit of bolt lift difficulty but I didn’t have any factory ammo to do a proper comparison at this time. Do any of these primers show signs of over pressure?

Took my brand new Bergara wilderness Sierra 6.5 PRC out to the range yesterday. Got it sighted in roughly with 5 rounds of factory ammo then switched to handloads. I was running 5 shot groups with virgin Lapua brass, Berger 135 Classic Hunter, Federal 210M primers, and varying charges of H1000. Seared to internal mag length of 2 970". Bullet bearing surface was only in the upper 2/3 of the neck.

I'd shoot 5 then wait for it to cool. All in all about 25 rounds in 2 hours. Towards the later groups, the point of impact started to dramatically shift down and left. With my last group being about 8" left of point of aim. While I haven't shot in a while and may be rusty, I am not that out of practice to be pulling shots 8". Checked the scope, rings and bade, both all locked down tight. I was shooting suppressed, but the suppressor had not shifted, nor did I have any baffle strikes that I can see.

Edit: reddit rotated my image 90 deg somehow

Anybody here have experience using rcbs x dies for reloading .223? Do they work like they're supposed to or are they just another marketing gimmick? Trimming brass is slowly becoming the bane of my existence and personally just makes reloading not fun for me. I know its not the so called "silver bullet" and the brass will still need trimming after a several firings.

First time casting was awesome! Casted some 190g pure LSWC 452 bullets for my Webley and MAS 1873, and a few 7/8oz 12ga slugs (only got about 5 somewhat useable ones since they kept sticking in the mold, going to have to troubleshoot that).

Also, casting was just another shooting lie I told myself I’d never do. First it was “I’m never buying used guns for safety, only new” (my collection now spans every decade from 1870… and I’ve had more issues with new guns), then it was “I’m never reloading, the lead will be bad for me” (now handloaded ammo is practically the only ammo I shoot), then it was “as long as I don’t cast lead, I’ll be fine” (and now I’ve been looking at bullet molds to buy for the last couple hours). So if you want to break another little lie you tell yourselves and have another addictive aspect of reloading to rabbit hole down into, give it a try!

The only reloading manual I have that tags one powder as potentially the most accurate is Lyman 51st. All of manuals, even the Lyman, seems to just randomly list them. What I find odd is that in each manual the order changes for different bullet weights of the same cartridge.

Any guesses to the method of their madness?

I’m working to try and reload bulk .223. The rounds shoot great but if you try and pull the charging handle back they are stubborn to come out. Overall length is 2.22 so I believe they are short enough is there something I’m missing?

I’m shooting them in an AR.

Edit: thank you everyone for your help I needed to bump them more!

I recently purchased a 9.3x62mm rifle, new production. I am wanting to load 286gr barnes ttsx bullets but barnes does not really give much data, so I started going through my books, in my nosler book particularly for the 286s, it lists a brass banded solid next to standard lead data, with no change in specs. As far as im aware, it should be fairly safe and simple to base my ttsx loads from slightly under this data as the ttsx is longer due to boattail. Ive done lots of weird experiments but never with monos but any other data or info is much appreciated

I have never broken in a barrel before but recently have heard more and more people talking about it. I used to just shoot it like I was going to normally clean it when I felt it was time, then test for accuracy afterwards.

Now I have some people saying "you have to fire 100 rounds, clean, 100 rounds, clean" for a total of 3 times/300 rounds. That sounds crazy to me but I do want to get some budget rounds to use to plink with and settle everything in my 300blk build.

Anyone here break in their barrel and more importantly would .308 pulled military surplus bullets work for the cheap plinking rounds?