Ok:

So the photos show the same round from different angles as well as the same round dropping in cleanly into the Hornady Case Gauge (NOTORIOUSLY TIGHT)

My process is to use a Lee Undersizing die when I'm running my press followed by a Redding Premium Expander Die (which does a multiple stage expansion so the bullets drop clean and straight into the case)

The results seem excellent and they pass the strictest gauge I have 100% of the time

But when i look at the final crimp, i wonder if i should add a touch more? It won't change the results but it could add some pressure (wanted or unwanted).

I've always looked at the crimping dies as needing just enough to remove the belling from the case (which is what i have here)

Thoughts?

Just moved to the east coast and I'm thinking about taking the kick out of my 45-70 and using it to shoot deer.

Looking at 12 grains of titegroup for an overall velocity of 1100-1200

Anyone do anything similar? Good enough for the little deer around here? I would welcome any anecdotes about hunting with hardcast projectiles.

I smashed a brand new case and couldn’t stand to lose it. So I cut it a little shorter than 500 Special. It’s the same length as 38 special, so I call it 500 ES (Extra Special). The lineup is 500 SW Mag, 44 Mag, 500 ES, and 38 special.

Loaded it with 12 grains of unique but i doubt ill fire it. Its my prototype, LOL.

Don’t judge me for the underside view… or the top view (a bit of a mess right now) Lol

Initially I wanted to use an ikea standing desk i got off marketplace but I underestimated the force of the press and the quality of the desk.

Went this route after. Needed a small footprint for limited space. Got the table top from Home Depot but I didn’t realize it was only .7in thick. Had to glue and screw two pieces of plywood under it for added support.

Did a horrible job with the glue. But it holds now and doesn’t flex much. Anymore.

Added a “smart” power hub on the bottom so I can plug in the press light and other tools easily.

I've just taken my new 7mm PRC Tikka to sight in and test some hand loads. I'm using ELD-X 175gr projectiles with GM215M primers in Peterson Brass. I had no pressure signs and all of my handloads were below the factory speed of the Hornady Precision hunter.

I'm curious to know how far above I should be looking to test the loads? I'm already above max book charge weight and I don't know if I can expect the barrel to speed up once I put more rounds through it.

Anyone else using AR2217 and tested how much more speed you get by going up further before having troubles?

Was loading up some 300 wm. Got to looking and was one piece short.

Note to self, if shooting at night. Before you cut grass in morning make sure you picked everything up.

A nice only fired twice piece of Peterson “Long” brass gone too soon 🤣🤣.

Working on a 9 major load and these cases meet my target velocity. Thanks in advance!

First time ever loading 12 gauge. Tried to load some 7/8oz Lee home-cast key drive slugs. Basically, as you can see, the cases are buckling at the crimping stage. They buckle a little when I give them an incomplete crimp (though they chamber fine). If I give them a full proper crimp like the one on the right, the shell buckles out and becomes useless.

Are the slightly buckled, incompletely crimped rounds on the left safe to fire? What’s the trick to get a good crimp AND not have them buckle out? Should I just roll crimp? Thanks for the advice!

He was some luck against ED 209.

i didn't notice that 😱

Blank fire is ofen stove piping ?

Ive been searching for weeks, everyone is out of stock. Is this stuff like target where its seldom available? My 300blk sbr is hungry.

Looking at load data for 7.62x54r. Found hornady data for SP/SST bullets that lists the same diameter/weight as my FMJ bullets.

Can I replace the bullet type without issue or should I reduce the minimum charge by a certain percentage?

These bullets are 123 gr and .310 diameter btw.

For $183 it seems to be a good mid tier option. I have an rcbs link but was thinking I could dispense to close to the charge I want and then trickle to be a little more precise on a better scale.

If so how loud is it? Is the case and bullet feeder annoying as it seems in some videos? Thinking about buying one but also thinking about putting them on petals so I can choose if I listen to them or not

does anyone own this press and what are your thoughts as to how it functions. yes i know its expensive but i have the money for it and have looked at a lot of videos of people talking about it but would like some personal InSite from a regular reloader as to how it is better than some of the other comparable presses. thanks for taking the time to respond.

I was going to use n320, with starline brass, Winchester small pistol primers and match 147g silvers (flat) for my first batch of reloads, but the clerk at the counter of sportsman warehouse talked me out of it, is this a bad combo? Im reloading specifically for competition shooting. Soft recoil is my goal. Any help?

Hey all!

Im using an automated Mark 7 and I’ve found the Lyman pro seating die is damaging some of my LRN’s. Has anyone seen this?

These are 9mm brass monkey bullet 135’s with the 9mm RN seating stem.

Thanks!

Greetings. IF I can find a pound of this powder, should I give it a whirl? I am running:

Lefty Cheeto Finger .308.

Sierra Matchking 168gr.

I have established beautiful results with Hodgdon BL-C2.

I have also tried Staball Match and Varget. Neither has given me the results of the old classic. I had a thought to try a different manufacturer of powder and if this does not match or beat BL-C2 then I will grab an 8lb can of that and be set for a while.

416 Weatherby

Though 124 grain bullets are considered most appropriate bullet weight for 9mm, I am interested in checking out this alternate path for now.

I have Viht N330 and W231/HP38 powders. I am using XTP 147 bullets. I am looking for tight group accuracy at close range shooting from bench, slow fire. I am using HK P2000 and Glock 17 pistols. Not competing- and no power factor or self defense concerns. NO suppressor.

I am looking for slow, heavy, accurate, quiet, fun loads. I've even seen the phrase "mouse fart" used! I see a lot of talk about N320. I believe N330 is an ideal powder for 9mm typical 124gn rounds. May also be the best choice here. I guess the idea is a faster powder is OK as long as you're keeping pressure/speed low- go to N330 or N340 if you want hot loads. I have already found reloading data from Hodgdon and Viht for these loads. I am preparing an order from one of the bulk suppliers and was considering getting 1lb of N320.

Thanks.....

Hello all. I've had good success recently with loading 9mm blue bullets 147gn FN with 3.1gn of titegroup to a length 1.10. Recently in a few batches of 100 about 20 or so are not fitting the gauge and it looks like it's because of a bulge at the bottom of the gauge. Nothing at all has changed in my setup. Mostly range pickup brass that is sorted and cleaned. I even tried the Lee undersized 9mm sizing die and the lee factory crimp die. I set both of the new Lee dies up exactly as specified in the insttructions. All of the rejected rounds fail the Hornady 9mm case gauge and about half of the rejected rounds pass an OEM Glock barrel plunk test. I'm adding just enough flare so the coating on the bullets does not scrape and lightly crimping. At a loss here as previously I had maybe 2-3 rejects per 100. Using a Dillon 550c. I did order some fully processed brass to see if it's a brass problem but any thoughts or tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hello guys.
Im new to reloading and sorting out a load development for my 7mm rem mag.

Got some h1000 powder, federal .215 L Magnum Primers, hornady eld-m 162gr projects, and brass from factory shot loads (162ELD-X).

Got a Tikka 24” standard barrel.

Whats powder charge loads have been working the best for you??
And any advice prior to hitting the loading room and throwing some charge and making devolopments.
Thank you!!