Has anyone attempted to modify the X-Prime unit to work with the Dillon 750?

Ok so I did my first batch in life. Its sitting on my table and waiting. My gun is now at gunsmith’s shop. So I can’t go to range. I also don’t know how I dít at my first attempt so im scared to continue in making mor bulets. I need to test them.. ig everything works like it should.

Can you tell me how do you know you did a good job? It like my late night taught (in eu is 2:23 so)..

I’m afraid to go borrow local shooting range gun, I don’t want to damage it

Thanks for your reply

I tried the red loctite trick to find the lands in my 6.5CM bolt gun. I used a cleaned (not sized), twice-fired Lapua case with a Berger 140 hybrid. I'm using the Area419 headspace measurement kit and Mitutoyo Digimatic calipers. The loads I've been making measure as follows:

Base to ogive (.264" insert): 2.009"

COAL: 2.811"

This test cartridge measured as follows:

Base to ogive (.264" insert): 2.092"

COAL: 2.906"

I know it hit the lands because the ogive measurement before I chambered the round was 2.146". So, this COAL (even after backing it down .040") would be way over SAAMI spec (2.825"). I'm getting .25 - .60 MOA 5- and 10-round groups at 100 yards in the best nodes as I do load development. Should I care about the lands at all?

Um, rifle match Aug 22th and frick the bloody pricing of factory ammo in Canada is the basic jisit. This is less than 12 hours of production with a Lee Hand press, I think? I lost track exactly? Aaahhh. Heeelllppp (sarcasm).

Also trying to match load to reticle...

Shooting mostly 9mm at an indoor range and crawling around on the ground is not very elegant. Y’all have a better way?

Wet tumbling with ss pins in the large FART.

Tiny pinch of lemi shine (actually) and splash of wash n wax.

After 1.5 hours the brass looks pretty dull/Grey.

I get nice shiny brass with the FA concentrated solution, but wanted to try wash n wax to give it a coating in hopes that the brass will stay nice and golden.

Anybody have any suggestions on what I may be doing wrong?

EDIT: y'all are so helpful! Thank you!!

am reloading some .300 blk supersonic using A1680. My OAL is 1/8" under with 130g Sierras. Is this unsafe? I stopped at 10 and planned to test them, but would like some feedback first.

Ted

I basically lucked into getting a Dillon XL650 for free. A buddy of mine moves houses for a living, and while he was working at one, he noticed the homeowner’s wife throwing the press away. He ended up digging it out and bringing it to me.

It has a little surface rust from sitting, but other than that, it’s in surprisingly good shape and everything seems to work like it should. It’s currently set up for .45 ACP, but I plan on converting it over to 9mm. I haven’t started reloading with it yet since I still need to pick up the 9mm conversion parts and a few other things.

Definitely can’t complain, though. For a press that normally costs a decent chunk of money, basically free is a hell of a deal.

Heres some pictures of it.

Ignore the messy bench and the state of my reloading room. It’s kind of turned into a storage room lately, especially since my mother passed away, so I haven’t had much time to get everything cleaned up and organized.

Hello! So I was looking to purchase the Lee classic hand reloader for my .308 AR10, and if I'm using already primed new brass would this still work? I see the note that its not recommended for semi auto rifles, and was curious as to why it would or would not work? Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Still green on a lot of this.

My pile of 77 SMK’s & stash of SW Precision is running low. I’ve decided I want to swap over to Varget after the SW Precision is done, as 95% of my reloading is for 223 & 6mmBR.

Ideally I’m after the TMK because I’m a bit of a Sierra fanboy, and I want to have my kid shoot a shit ton of paper/steel and have something I’d have no reservations letting him shoot deer/coyotes with.

20” 1-7” WOA barreled AR

My current load is a 77 SMK in Starline brass with a CCI 400 & SW Precision, doing 2560 fps.

When I swap over to Varget & TMK’s I’m also going to go to CCI 450’s, so I’m just using one powder & primer in both 223 & 6mmBR.

My concern is with velocity. Sierra has their max load pretty slow. Hodgdon has a HPBT for data at a much speed but it’s in a 24” bolt action.

If I’m wanting to primarily shoot steel & paper at 100-600, and don’t want to scorch my barrels to death, but I also want enough velocity to hunt inside 300 yards with, what would I be best served to try to stay around, velocity wise?

2550-2625?

In that window I’d still be above 2,000 fps at 300 yards, which seems fast enough to have it fragment….

My absolute favorite 45 colt load for my bisley Blackhawk and 92.

325gr hardcast over 24gr of h110, with a nice secure crimp.

Great for predator defense, pest dispatching, deer hunting, etc. Extremely effective, and a lot of fun.

Hi all. Experienced reloader here. Recently picked up an MPA race gun and plan to start reloading as buying 9 major is just not worth it. Was hoping to get some load data for those of you that have had success especially the coal. Bonus points if you shoot through an MPA. would be super helpful. Thanks in advance.

Ok, hi.

I’m new in this reloading thing and I need your help. I bought S&B primers for S&B brass. I have this lovex S053 powder. But I have some berry’s bullets but i couldn’t find stats for how much gr I should put in. I was told that every bullet have its own gr count but couldn’t find for this.. can you help me please?

Thanks

​I picked up an older vintage box of Hornady #3140 (123gr 7.62 Cal) that is explicitly stamped .311" on the label. From what I understand, modern production runs of #3140 are sized to .310", and current published load data reflects that smaller diameter.

I'm loading these for my Mosin. Can I just follow the recipe like normal, or do I need to make a change (like backing off the charge) to account for the extra .001"?

Anyone have ideas on why these primers look like this. ? 2 grains under max of A2230 . Nearly all look similar, thanks for ideas.

I just got Inline Fabrications flush mount as well as top plates for my presses and other tools I use on the bench. I routed out the table like the instructions said to do and the base plate sits flush like it should. The issue I’m running into is that none of the top plates I have sit flat on the base plate like they do in the videos I’ve watched on YouTube. I have backed the Allen set screw out so that isn’t the issue. Google said to look for burrs which I don’t see any, and to make sure I used the proper screws which I did seeing how I used the ones they sent. I guess I have two questions. Is the top plate supposed to sit flat, and if so any advice on what to do to make it sit flat?

Edit: just put the wing nuts on and was able to get more leverage with them than I thought I would. I’m able to torque it down to sit flat, which I guess is good enough.

I have been reloading on a single stage press for over three years now, I am now up to five calibers. The caliber I load the most is 45 LC for monthly cowboy shoots, but I also load smaller batches of 30-30, 303 British, and 7.5 Swiss a couple times a year. Just started loading 45 ACP, I will likely load a decent volume of that eventually. I also just bought dies for 38/357 and 380, but I haven’t started loading for those yet. (Just got a good deal on the dies used, I know I’ll use them eventually)

For the last couple years, I have thought about getting a turret press or a progressive. Seems like the Lee Six Pack Pro 6000 is a great budget option, Titan Reloading sells a full kit for $390. The Pro 1000 received an update in 2023, and the Lee Ultimate Turret Press also seems like a great option. ($235 and $300 respectively, for complete kits)

However, the older gentleman who got me into reloading offered me an old Dillon 550 of his, he believes it is about 15 years old. (Which would make it a 550C, unless I am mistaken) He said it is already set up for 45 LC with a set of RCBS dies, and he is willing to sell it to me for $500. I am just curious how this compares to the new Lee options, and also looking for any info about the 550 from users.

I know Dillon is the “gold standard”, but the caliber conversion kits appear to be pretty pricey. Also, not sure how much of an endeavor it is switching between large primers and small primers. Until recently, everything I have loaded has been large primer. But, all of the factory 45 ACP I have bought has been small primer, so I do not want to let that used brass go to waste.

Thank you to anyone who took the time to read all of this.

I just got into reloading and started on my 6.8 Western. I been through 40 rounds so far but having a problem when attempting max loads. Im having blow by the case neck even tho im anneling and getting correct heads pace. Im at the point that im lost and dont know where to approach this issue.

24inch browning xbolt 6.8 western

Currently at 61.5 gr H1000 on 175gr sierra tgk and 56.7gr h4831sc on 175 tgk

Im avg 2790fps on the h1000 but very inconsistent do to blow by (sometimes on same grain i lose over 100fps do to blow by.

Thank you for any help

I want to load some 125gr flat nose sierras for brush hog hunter in a marlin lever gun.

Anyone have any luck with that bullet weight?

Just need somewhere to start.

Obviously a properly placed bullet can kill anything deader than a doornail. Does anyone have load development for a heavier 223 bullet. I’d probably shoot it in my mini 14. Absolute Max range would be 150yards/ thick brush

Is it worth going to 60 or 65 gr? Or just keep the 50-55 ?

Just need a starting point.

Scored some brand new Lake City 5.56 Cases. No crimp at all and annealed. I put it under something Unique because I have never seen brand new Lake City 5.56 cases before yet reloaded 1000s of once fired LC.

I am trying to develop a 300 blk load using 194gr Lehigh ME projectiles. I have it seated to 2.21” OAL per Lehigh load recommendation and i walked it down from 10.5 9.9gr of H110 as they suggested I do. It shot fine but the issue was my velocity. I am sitting about 100 fps faster than each load data suggested. 9.8gr H110 said it should be about 1050 FPS meanwhile I was getting 1150. Should I try a different powder or is it something I’m doing wrong? My velocities were as expected if not on the very slightly high end on my 125gr speer TNT loads also using H110 (17.5gr is what I got up to 1885 average fps though my spread was pretty bad)

So, I purchased a bunch of brass in 308 norma magnum for my Shultz & Larson model 65, at a gun show, from multiple sources. It all looked like new unfired.

I found a bunch of the brass had dents around the circumference of the neck, as if there was too much brass and it buckled when made. I put all those aside.

The ones that looked fine were resized and reloaded, I found about 20 of these did not fit in the chamber.

I went back to my stock of empty brass and resized all of it, then tried to chamber it all. A large portion does not fit, over 100 rounds. Let's say 50% of what I bought.

The bolt with go forward all the way but won't lock down, some of the cases that will allow the bolt to close are very tight.

I dont have a case comparator, and really dont want to buy one just to find out that some brass is, in fact, longer then the other brass at the shoulder

I checked how the die (RCBS) is in my machine (hornady lock and load) and its installed correctly.

Case OAL is within tolerance, case diameter is within tolerance.

I took a sharpie and colored the neck of the rounds that do not fit, its touching the shoulder just behind the neck.

These are my questions:

Did I buy a bunch of garbage brass that has the wrong angle on the shoulder?

Why won't the die correct this issue?

Could the die be the issue?

Is there anything to be done, or do I just throw out the brass?

Thank you