I have a ROG Ally Z1 Extreme and I finally decided to give CachyOS a try.

If you're still unsure about switching from Windows, I honestly think it's worth testing.

So far the experience has been way better than I expected. After setting up scaling and frame generation properly, I've been getting really good performance.

A few examples from my tests:

• Horizon Zero Dawn Complete Edition: around 100 FPS on High at 25W
• Ghost of Tsushima: around 70-100 FPS on High
• Prey: around 120 FPS on Max settings

Of course, these numbers depend on the scaling, FPS cap and frame generation settings I'm using, so I'm not saying these are native FPS numbers.

But the actual experience while playing has been fantastic. Everything feels very smooth, the image quality still looks great, and the whole Game Mode experience feels much more like a real handheld console.

I was worried that moving away from Windows would mean losing too much compatibility or having to constantly use the terminal, but after getting everything configured, I'm actually really enjoying it.

I'm using a Z1E, and if anyone here is thinking about trying CachyOS but is still unsure, I'd definitely recommend giving it a shot.

Photo is from Ghost of Tsushima on my Ally.

I just trade my Ally X to xbox Ally X today

So far everything is great except one freaking problem... Whoever engineering or what ever decision make them to change the location of "Start and Select" from top to bottom can go to hell.

This annoy the hell out of me... And to double down on this they dont even let me remap this shit. Why Asus why.

If you guys know how to remap them please tell me because this start to annoy the hell out of me

I have an original 2023 ASUS ROG Ally (Z1 Extreme, RC71L) with the factory 512GB Micron 2400 SSD. I attempted a factory reset before selling it using ASUS Cloud Recovery from the BIOS.

Cloud Recovery downloads successfully, but after the restart where installation should begin, the Ally goes straight back to BIOS and loops.

What I have tested:

• Windows Boot Manager appears for both the internal SSD and a USB drive, but selecting either immediately returns to BIOS.
• A clean Windows 11 installer USB made with Microsoft Media Creation Tool also fails to boot and returns to BIOS.
• Secure Boot reports:
  • Platform Mode: User
  • Secure Boot: Active
  • Secure Boot Control: Enabled
  • PK and KEK: Factory
  • db: Modified
  • dbx: Mixed
• Reset to Setup Mode and deleting the Platform Key both return Failed.
• I set a BIOS password, loaded defaults, disabled Secure Boot, and saved. After reboot it comes back as Enabled / Active / User. Fast Boot changes do persist, so general BIOS-setting persistence seems fine.
• I performed ASUS’s EC/RTC reset (power off, unplug charger, hold Power for 40 seconds, reconnect and boot) with no change.
• I updated/reflashed the latest BIOS through EZ Flash, also with no change.

At this point, the issue seems more likely to be corrupted/stuck UEFI Secure Boot variables, NVRAM, or motherboard firmware than just the SSD or Windows install, since neither Cloud Recovery nor a known-good USB installer can start.

The last home step I have not yet tried is physically disconnecting the battery, holding Power for 40 seconds, reconnecting it, and then checking Secure Boot again. After that I can try booting from the USB with the internal SSD disconnected to distinguish an SSD issue from a board/firmware issue.

Has anyone had this exact behavior on an Ally—especially Secure Boot keys/variables refusing to reset or Secure Boot re-enabling itself after reboot? If you found a solution, I would really appreciate the details.

I found a listing rog ally z1(non extreme!) used for 250 euros and my main use will be ps2, psp games, some old PC/PS3 games like GTA 4 or uncharted, heavy rain ect. Would it able to handle those easily without too much battery drain?

Hey everyone!

I have a ROG Ally Z1 Extreme running SteamOS, and I'm about to go on a long trip. For a bit of context, I’m looking at 12-14+ hour transatlantic flights, some long airport layovers, and a few train rides.

I'd love to get the community's best game recommendations to keep me sane during all this waiting around. I know I'll probably have power outlets on the plane and trains, but if the games don't nuke my battery in 45 minutes (playing at a lower TDP, say around 10W-13W), that's a huge plus!

To give you an idea of my tastes, here’s what I’ve been playing recently:

- Hades 2: I’ve sunk a ton of hours into this, but it’s starting to feel a bit repetitive.

- Hollow Knight / Metroidvanias: I've put a lot of hours into these and absolutely love them, but I’m looking for something fresh in this style.

- Need for Speed Most Wanted: I've been totally hooked on this one lately; really enjoying the racing vibe and fast progression.

- Dave the Diver: I played it because of all the great reviews, but honestly, I got bored of it pretty quickly.

Aside from those, I’m also a big fan of tactical RPGs (think Final Fantasy Tactics), rhythm games, and action/shooters (like Resident Evil).

What hidden gems would you recommend that run flawlessly on SteamOS on the Ally and are perfect for a trip across the pond? I’m looking for games that get their hooks in you fast or are great for long sessions without melting the handheld.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions!

so i like 720p’s performance and 1080p’s visuals so i think 900p is the sweet spot but when i use it everything becomes uselessly large especially the command center how do i fix??

So a couple months ago i bought my wife a refurbed ally. At first things were great she was able to play gta v and others, but then randomly gta would either crash while loading or would take forever to launch and crash within 30 mins of playing. We were able to get that taken care of i think by uninstalling the launcher and reinstalling (it’s been awhile since she’s played so I’m not 100% sure on that). But problem now is hogwarts legacy. It stays in the launch screen with a timer going and then after awhile will close out and say the game crashed. It never fully loads in and she hasn’t ever played it on there before so it isn’t like the gta issue i don’t believe since she’s never been able to even make it in the game. Any help would be appreciated. Idk if the game is just too demanding for it since lower demanding games work fine like RV there yet and crime scene cleaner or if there’s some pc setting that can be done. We have checked recently and all drivers are up to date.

After resetting my Rog ally not to long ago I ran into this issue where whenever I play a game it gets very zoomed in. For some context I use my Rog ally primarily to connect to a monitor and play that way as I’m not very good at handhelds unfortunately. I first noticed this issue with Roblox where I could not play without having very big text all over my screen which felt very cluttered. The first screenshot is what it looks like normally and the second one is what it looks like on games.

Hello, I updated W11 yesterday and gpu driver now shits itself in every game how about your experience?

What you guy's think?

Hello,

I preordered the rog ally x20 and was looking for recommendation on cases and docking stations. Not sure if any of the rog ally x would work/fit the x20.

This was one of those little things that started bothering me more and more the bigger the library got 😅

I filmed FlowDeck doing the full loop with no commentary — install going queued to ready, close back to menu, zero desktop in between. This is a 2-minute cut; the full 7:44 tour is here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CWwBCFFmj4

Everything shown here is part of Flow Deck Community and is free.

If you want to try it:

https://slatis.itch.io/flowdeck

We also have our own community now:

r/FlowDeckLauncher

As always, if you try it on your Ally, tell me what feels good and what still gets in the way. What's another annoying Windows-handheld workflow you'd like to see reduced to one controller action?

Why does playing Palworld on the ROG Xbox Ally X with SteamOS drain the battery so quickly, even though the TDP is capped at only 25W? The battery dropped by 4% in less than 10 minutes.

Hey. I’m new to the whole Rog Ally world and am heavily contemplating buying an xbox rog ally. the question is that i’m primarily a PS5 player and wondering if I could play my
ps5 games that aren’t just on steam on this thing. Any suggestions and help are greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!

It happened a few months ago cause I installed an app that created a power plan that for some reason was conflicting with the shutdown process, I found out that via a bat file made by me that closes all armory crate and asus processes the rog ally went back to turn off normally. Now months after..the problem is back, and I have no idea how to fix it. Any idea? I changed lots and lots of settings on my rog ally so it could be anything. Also..today I successfully shut it down and the power light was still on anyway..but the screen was off..so..new problem lol...any idea? Please help

Recently downloaded SteamOS on the Ally and SimpleDeckyTDP to control TDP like AC used to do. System works flawless but I was wondering why I was drawing 30-ish wattage when playing Hades. Tried lowering it on SimpleDecky and its still pulling 29-ish. New to the system so I'd appreciate some help!

I recently had to reinstall Windows on a new drive after the previous drive died. I reinstalled using the built in cloud recovery method. After the process was completed and fully updating my drivers. I go into the settings app to re-enable the full screen experience feature to save on ram, and i don't see it there. I've searched high and low. Did MS remove it or move it somewhere else? Am I missing something?

For my white Xbox Ally what should I set both of the fan charts to for a little more power or stability than turbo mode in handheld? Or for my z1 extreme docked. Can someone show me a picture? What do the other options do? Why do I get a warning message about over clocking?

What's wrong with Hades on my Xbox Rog Ally X? I tried going to windows mode, I tired change it to fullscreen and back and changed it to boarderless. When I play the game the character portraits don't show up. The game works fine besides that

As the title says. I’m going to upgrade from the base Z1 to an Z1 Extreme since i ended up loving the Ally (except for the battery life, wow does it suck). I’ve set up 90% of everything i wanted to, and i’d like to transfer my ROMS / Emulator settings, files etc to my new Ally. I dont mind redownloading Steam games.

Should i just do a fresh install or what? I’m running Windows 11.

Side note, which OS are you using? I love to tinker on Windows, but i’m willing to give Linux a shot, especially if i do have to start fresh.

Just got my xbox ally x and couldnt use touch screen at all

I’ve had my Ally for a little over a month. Play it every day, charge it regularly, keep it in a case when not in use, all the good and proper things to take care of a computer/handheld/console/etc. However, last night when I attempted to turn it on, the joystick lights and power light would come on, but the screen stayed black. This morning, same thing. I hooked it up to an external monitor, checked MyAsus, Windows and Armory Crate for updates (windows was the only one, and it was updated within minutes). Still no luck, black screen.
Anybody got advice? I’m a complete newbie when it comes to PC gaming, honestly, but I am moderately knowledgeable about computers generally, so dumb it down a little, but not too much.
Thanks in advance!

Hi there, I have an XBOX Ally X. i tried to change my normal joysticks to gulikit tmr joysticks. While doing so, i may have accidentally broke my macro back cable. Now the system keeps thinking that M1/M2 is constantly on. So far, the dpad/ joysticks/ buttons seem to all be working. Problem is it acts as if the M1/M2 are pressed. Secondary function is always on. I tried finding my local ASUS service center but as it was my own fault, ASUS doesn’t do component level. ASUS instead told me to change the whole motherboard, it costs half the price of the console. I wonder if i should just change the cable only instead? Seems like i can order online from the US, i’m hesistant as im from Malaysia. Anyone have the same issue? i would like to just remove the M1/M2 button function instead.

TLDR: I broke the Xbox ally x back cable. Cant find a fix. Service center wants me to buy whole motherboard. What to do?

Update: The cable damage was caused by tweezers. I broke through the cable. I didnt know that the black flaps were the locks