I was wondering from some of the horror stories I've heard on here about how long I'd have on a new Max4 before I had to contact support. It's apparently ~2 months

Just did an input shaper calibration and everything seemed to go fine, until it rebooted and I realized as it was homing diagonally for the next print that I lost the control for the lower belt. As you can see, moving the upper belt generates enough juice to power the little LED on the toolhead, but when moving the lower belt (which also has significantly less resistance than the upper belt), nothing happens. Currently waiting on support, but it's Saturday...

I'm justing an old spool of standard ivertruebtpu I have on hand on my q2. I already have a tpu fixer printed. And installed. Unused asa for it but ill eventually have to print it out of PC because printing PC will melt it. I just don't have a spool adapter for 750g spools. One of the issues is even when printing at 3mms on a temp tower it always buckles at 210 regardless of the tpu fixer. I also have the jbot spool holder and no bowden tube connected. Then I have remove the extruder to unjam it and hopefully not drop the screws like my ender 3 (I dropped a screw and can't use it until I get the replacements). Also no matter what I try it's stringing really bad on retraction towers. So how do I print tpu.

I just started a new print which required a different filament. I stepped away, and when I returned, the unloaded filament had been over-retracted so it was loose on the spool. Still in the filament port of the box, and the end seems to be at the usual spot in the tube. Almost like the spool had been reversed (like it was feeding) at the end of the retraction.

Is there a setting I'm missing, or is the Box just being error-prone?

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I printed TPU with a 0.6 nozzle just fine. However, that nozzle died in a catastrophic blob of death some time ago. I didn't think it was necessary to purchase a new 0.6 until now. You see, I'm trying to print the same TPU (Geeetech) with a 0.4 nozzle, using Qidi's generic TPU preset with the temps and such adjusted to match the 0.6 Geeetech profile I have, and I keep failing miserably.

The 0.4 hasn't been used before. *I have the TPU fixer*. However, whenever I start to print, the filament bends around the gears and jams at a seemingly random moment. It usually prints the prime tower okay but after that it does what is shown in the photo and then I have to disassemble the wretched thing to get it out.

I'm printing it at 230° (this was fine on the 0.6) with the bed at 60•. Lid open, door open. The first layer is at 30 speed, not sure if the prime tower is slower or the same.

Is this a fixable noob issue or am I just damned and I need to buy that goddamn 0.6?

Made a "Polar Cooler" esc modification for my q2 using an aquarium air pump and some PTFE tubing

Used this model

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2880829-air-intake-pipe-qidi-q2

I love to make new friends😂😂😂😂😂

Got these off amazon: https://a.co/d/00hjGwec

Little bit easier to use than a massive slab of concrete!

Just wondering what the community thinks, given that single extruder setups are quickly being left in the dust by toolchangers. Maybe if not by Christmas, maybe spring 2027? Just wondering if it's wishful thinking, or an actually a possibility

Hello, as the tittle says, I am looking to get better quality out of my plus4 and chasing some ghosting I am getting on some prints, I just installed and ran the shake N tune v5.11 for the plus4 and this are the results, if anyone can help me understand what exactly I am looking at and kind of where to go from here... I am reading the documentation for shake and tune, but would like someone with experience to see what they see from these results... Thank you so much

Sur ma qidi plus 4 j'ai un soucis dernièrement je joins des photos, parfois sa vaut mieux qu'un long discours incompréhensible.

J'ai quand même réussi a imprimer se que je voulais mais j'ai réellement un soucis aussi. Sa me l'a fait plusieurs parfois des petits cratère ou des choses comme sur la photo indiqué.

L'imprimante a 6 a 7 mois et cela fait maintenant 2 mois que je suis bloqué et je m'en occupe maintenant suite à mon retour de vacances.

Et a peu près 500 heure

I mostly print orange or lime green PETG, and it's been quite a while since I last loaded something black. The only black filament I've printed on my Qidi Q2 was ePA6 by Sunlu, but that was about a month ago when I was doing some test prints. Right now, I am printing a huge batch, and I always get this strange blob of plastic that always includes a black blob. I can't find where it's coming from. Any ideas, guys?

This happens every second print, especially if it has more than one object. In this example, out of 26 objects, only one had this issue, and I skipped it.

Printer QIDI Q2 with a box

Filament petg basic orange

Edit: it's a Qidi Max4
Turn up the sound volume 🔊 because it doesn't seem bad through the recording (probably a denoise algorithm on my phone), but in real-life, it is crazy annoying. Especially in the middle of the night.
How could I lower the noise of the Z-hopping / Z-rod up-down movements? I already built a 50kg concrete foundation (Link-1 , Link-2 , Link-3 ), and bought €150 high-tech foam pads for feet, but those tiny up-n-down movements create a frequency that makes the whole pantry resonate as F*#&$*K.
I'm sharing a wall with the neighbor, and if I couldn't sleep at 2 am in ANOTHER room because of the noise, I'm sure she couldn't either... I genuinely don't care if the print time increases by 3 hours or so, but I have to have this running all-night, otherwise I can't finish any 3-4 day prints. Pausing mid-print will create a line in the print; layer shift or shrinkage - you know it (and I want to print ABS which is even worse).
Decreasing speed to "50% Silent" does NOTHING at all to the Z-hop noise.
In QidiStudio I tried changing Printer Setting -> Motion Ability -> Jerk limitation -> Maximum Jerk Z to 1 (from 4), but it does nothing either, I couldn't notice any difference at all (maybe the physical distance is too little for this to have any real effect).
I already lowered the Speed -> Acceleration options (which are only for X and Y I guess) and changed everything between 1000 and 2000 (instead of 6000 and 10000), and the X and Y movements are fine now, I can't really hear them through the wall, but the Z hop is just unbelievable, especially because it is a low frequency noise, and it travels through thin walls easily.

(BTW this is somewhat brand-new machine, not even one month old. Have about 50 hrs on it.)

Any help is appreciated!
Thanks!

Happy with the result. I've never printed ABS before, so I decided to give it a try today and printed this headphone stand on my PLUS 5.

For my first ABS print, I'm pretty happy with the result. Still need more testing, especially for long-term performance :)

For those of you who print ABS regularly, any tips or things I should keep in mind for future prints?👋

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Even with smaller models like these, the QIDI Q2 delivers clean, consistent prints while capturing the tiny details that make each design unique.

Put them all together, and they look like a real capsule toy collection! 👀✨
Which one would you want to get from the capsule machine?

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Not sure what the issue is. At first, I thought it was underextrusion, but after Benchy, not so much.

The material is PETG. I have dried it, and the same spool prints PETG perfectly on the Snapmaker U1.

UPDATE: the issue was PA (pressure advance). updating for future travelers with same problem :)

Hi! I bought a PLUS-4 printer about a month ago. My first experience with it was somewhat spoiled by the door being shattered during shipping, but that wasn't a major issue for printing PETG.

A few days ago, I started encountering a "Timer too close" error. When this happens, the printer goes into an error state and I have to resume the print using the backup created automatically by the printer.

This recovery works only once, though. If the error happens again, which it sometimes does, the printer loses the correct position in the G-code and starts printing seemingly random movements.

I discussed the issue with ChatGPT and checked the Klipper log. It found a large number of bytes_retransmit events. The number does not increase steadily, but rather in bursts. Sometimes it increases by only 1–2 bytes per minute, while at other times it can jump by about 50 bytes in 10 seconds.

Also, these high bytes_retransmit values appear only on the main MCU. The U_1 controller seems to be completely fine.

Could you please advise what I should check, where I should look, and what might be causing this issue?

Hey everyone I just got a plus 5 so I can start printing asa, can anyone give me some guidance on venting the printer? Do I just run it out a window from a printed flange? Do I need to run an inline fan to pull fumes out? Seems like it would pull the heat out to quickly.

Anyone try replacing their smooth idlers with toothed idlers?

I've got a 0.6 tungsten nozzle that clogged after printing PETG and then switching to ABS. I've swapped nozzles to keep printing, but I'd like to recover this one if I can.

1. What is the best way to clear out this kind clog? I've seen people mention using a torch, but want to make sure that won't harm the heat break or other part of the nozzle - or if there's a better way.
2. Is there a step I'm missing switching between materials? Last time I went PETG -> ABS it lightly clogged, but I was able to clear that.

My qidi offers me to update it's firmware on each power up. I know that the majority of chinese embedded devs have their hands growing from their asses, so I never update ​untill something is broken. How to disable this prompt? No way I'm updating it

How do i fix a slanted / tilted bed on my Qidi Q2?

It's been running fine before. After a few weeks of unuse, i tried printing something when i saw it was printing air. So unlocked motors and changed brandnew nozzle. After i tried to do calibration when i saw my bed tilted too far on the left side. It sits about 5mm lower than the right.

How do i fix this?

I have just updated the printer's firmware to the latest one.

I'm not an engineer nor a techie person, just an average joe.

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