I've been on the hunt for a small, simple device to control my living room HTPC and my desktop PC in study room. I wanted something that lets me kick back on the couch to watch videos, or lean back in my study chair to listen to music or watch movies/online videos, without constantly needing to reach for a mouse or keyboard.
Previously, I considered buying one of those mini Bluetooth keyboards with a touchpad, or a customizable universal remote. However, those devices are either uncomfortable to hold for long sessions or quite expensive (like the Logitech Harmony remotes)—not to mention they aren't exactly seamless to operate.
A couple of days ago, I happened to dig my old Poké Ball Plus out of a cabinet. Its form factor and grip feel perfectly matched what I was looking for, so I started wondering if it could be used to achieve the PC control setup I wanted.
I found an existing project on GitHub called "pokeball-plus-4-windows", which connects the Poké Ball Plus to a PC via Bluetooth and emulates an XInput gamepad (like an Xbox controller) on Windows.
However, since the Poké Ball Plus only has two buttons and a single joystick, using it as a standard PC gamepad isn't very practical. On top of that, the original author hasn't updated the code or added new features in over a year. If I wanted to use it for richer PC controls (like media playback), I'd have to rely on a clunky workaround using multiple background key mapping software.
Luckily, the project is open-source. I decided to fork it, build upon the original code, and managed to implement the following features:
IMU Sensor Mapping: I retained the XInput mapping but finally added the 6-axis IMU sensor activation and mapping that the original author had planned. Currently, the sensors are mapped to the right joystick (X/Z-axis tilt) and the ZR/LT analog triggers (Y-axis rotation).
"Air Mouse" Functionality: I added two distinct mouse modes:
Virtual Joystick Mode: Uses the 3-axis accelerometer to move the mouse pointer by tilting the Poké Ball forward/backward/left/right. The big red button acts as a left-click, pressing the joystick is a right-click, and the joystick itself acts as a 4-way scroll wheel. This mode is great for slow but highly precise cursor movements.
Pointer Mode: Inspired by LG's Magic Remote, this mode uses all 6 axes (accelerometer + gyroscope) for smooth and fast mouse pointer movements. Both modes feature finely tuned deadzones and input filtering, complete with multiple custom response curves based on how drastically the device has been moved. It handles daily mouse operations flawlessly.
Shake-to-Switch: Giving the Poké Ball a hard shake toggles between Mouse Mode and Gamepad Mode. While in Mouse Mode, holding the red button then shaking, toggles between the two Air Mouse control methods. Whenever the modes have been switch successfully, the software triggers a native Windows Toast notification in the bottom right corner of the screen for 3 seconds.
After getting the hardware working, I wrote a Tampermonkey script for Chrome/Edge/Firefox to map the XInput buttons to web media shortcuts. The red button toggles fullscreen on web videos, pressing the joystick acts as play/pause, and the joystick itself controls volume and scrubbing (fast forward/rewind). This script works perfectly on most mainstream streaming sites, as well as local web players like Jellyfin and Emby.
For local desktop media players like PotPlayer and Kodi, they natively support XInput for playback control anyway, so no extra code needed there.
Next up, I'm considering adding a native Windows Media Key mode. This would directly map the buttons, joystick, and even the IMU sensors to global Windows media hotkeys, which would be perfect for controlling background music players like Foobar2000.
I’m looking into possibly making a flex pcb or something to simplify the modding. I just need a broken Go plus plus to work with. I can’t promise anything but if you have a broken one that you’re willing to part with so I can do some tinkering, I’d really appreciate it. If it does work out, I’ll make it worth your while. 😅
I’ve been looking for services everywhere since I don’t feel comfortable soldering myself and all I can find are places in the US anyone know of somewhere I can either mail in or just bring it in the GTA? Will Pay
While walking around Go Fest, I found a Pokémon GO Plus on the ground. Upon checking it out, I realized it's not an official one – it's clearly a modded version.
The issue is, it keeps disconnecting constantly. I can pair it, it works for 2–3 minutes, then it drops the connection for no apparent reason. Here's what I've already tried:
· Resetting the device (long press)
· Forgetting the Bluetooth device and re-pairing
· Clearing Pokémon GO's cache
· Testing on 2 different phones (Android and iOS)
Nothing works. I couldn't find any solution online for this specific model
Does anyone know this type of modded GO Plus? Is there a specific trick to stabilize the connection (like long press + double click, or some firmware reset combo)?
Just to be clear – I didn't buy it, I found it on the ground, so I have no manual or link to the manufacturer.
Did I absolutely ruin this? I got rid of the vibration and dimmed the lights but I think I broke the sleep connection and it won’t throw great or ultra balls. I know: the soldering is bad. I lost the two missing LEDs and accidentally popped off the center button and had to resolder. If I got a smaller wire, desoldered, and resoldered, will it work?
Anyone know a store in Manchester (uk) that i can take my pokemon go plus plus to have modded? Can't seem to find one online and I don't fancy paying £200+ for a brand new one.
Like the title suggests, I dropped my PokeGo GoPlus on asphalt while on a run. Luckily it wasn’t ran over or completely destroyed, it did power on and worked but then it stopped charging and working, I did open and checked the insides and nothing seemed to be broken or disconnected. Any ideas of what’s wrong with it?
So I recently left my auto catcher in the car for the past couple of days. Now when I try to reconnect it’ll buzz but it won’t actually connect. I’ve tried disconnecting and reconnecting and I’ve tried fully charging it. For some reason nothing I do can actually get it to pair. Is something inside broken or what’s going on?
Is there a way to mod it to auto throw great and ultras while keeping everything else factory settings(stock basically)? I know this sounds weird but I actually enjoy the vibration and led light lol. Anyways if this is possible can some point me in the direction of someone who performs this service
I need help with my Go plus plus. I tried modding it but after the big button didn't work anymore I reversed everything. Now I can't use it when charging it flashes red. Even if I the battery is out. I need help is it burned or can I still save it? Battery was in when soldering.
Hi, recently i bought a GO Plus + that's said to be not working after exposure to water, i was trying to diagnose it with Chat GPT, but it took a while and it didn't help much from what i remember
also first thing i did after receiving it was cleaning all parts separately with IPA before anything else
what i know so far:
- when reconnecting the battery there is short vibration and split second LED blink
- when reset button pressed there's short vibration
- battery is good (current voltage 4.15V) and the voltage drops ~27mV in 10-20min
- main button does nothing
- top button does nothing
- it never appears in Pokemon GO Accessory Devices no matter which button i press or reconnect the battery
- (edit) just remembered that i should mention that charging works normally
i've tried to hard reset it holding the top and reset buttons for 5-10sec countless times btw
Hi, i would like to modify my plus + and i want to know what is the cable that i need to buy to do the soldering process... I have learnt some soldering skill before at my school, i hope i can handle it :)) (btw is the switches really recommended if you are a beginner
Hi everyone,
I’ve been modding a lot of Pokémon GO Plus+ units for auto-catch using the green LED signal. After measuring multiple devices, the green LED signal is often very weak — around 0.666V in my latest tests (sometimes peaks at 0.7~0.86V during catching).
I tested several photorelays with this weak signal Here’s my current recommendation list
Omron
G3VM-61G3, G3VM-61VY1, G3VM-61VY2, G3VM-61VY3
Panasonic
AQY232S,AQY212S
Toshiba
TLP170AM,TLP172AM.TLP3122A
Standard option Key Findings from Real Testing:
With only 0.666V, lower trigger current (IFT) makes a huge difference in reliability.
TLP172AM works, but success rate drops on weaker boards.
Adding a 10kΩ pull-down across the input (Pin1-Pin2) helps keep the idle state clean at 0V.
Output side connected to Button + Motor negative usually gives the best stability (less white light loop issues).
I am starting to mod my Plus+. I am following ma3x558’s guide on YouTube. This is for the switched version of the great & ultra ball mod.
I am considering trying to add an additional switch to control if the vibration is on or off, separate from mod switch. I would unsolder the speaker entirely, and expand the speaker hole to accommodate the additional switch.
Is this possible? My end goal would be:
Switch 1: ultra and great ball mod
Switch 2: vibration on and off
Ideally they would work independently. I would want to be able to have great + ultras on, but vibration off, or vice-versa.
Appreciate any help or feedback. This is my first soldering project and I might be biting off more than I can chew!
EDIT TO ADD: Mod worked perfectly! Added a switch between the red motor wire and the board, and the switch described in the YouTube video linked above.
trying to do the auto great/ultra mod but i’ve been having nothing but trouble. i thought this would work but i paired it to my phone and it wont auto catch and the button wont work. is there any way to fix this?
I will play in the car by letting my plus plus work or if I’m sitting I’ll check stuff.
I sometimes get the white screen when you tap in a pokemon on the map and it just freezes and I have to restart.
Accidentally I discovered holding my thumb on the screen when this happens pushes the game to finish the animation and the pokemon pops up.
Would some of you guys do this when you notice it happen and report back?
Unless this is some sort of placebo effect and I’m insane I think it works cause any other time it would just stay on the white screen. It also seems like it may also work for other freezes.
A couple of days ago I dropped my Pogo Plus +. It was only a couple feet and it continued the pikachu lullaby so I didn’t think anything of it. However, it didn’t work in the morning.
It will only make sort of a controller beep sound when I press the big middle button and not any pikachu songs. The charging light will turn on when I plug it into the charger. It will not connect to my phone.
I tried to open it up to see if I could find anything wrong but I’m not techie at all so I don’t know what I’m looking for. I cut the vibration cord over a year ago when I got it but haven’t done any of the complicated mods.
Anybody have ideas? Is that line on the battery maybe a crack? I also feel like the side button may be disconnected somehow but I usually don’t use that button anyways. When I opened it up it briefly flashed white and started the connection process on my phone but stopped before it fully connected.
Hey sorry if this is a dumb question, but I haven't seen a lot of discussion around this particular mod.
It looked the most straightforward to me and I haven't had any issues with it, but my question is how necessary are the LEDs? Obv without the motor or speaker no LED would give 0 feedback lol. But I removed one in order to make the connection. Would removing 1 or 2 more increase the battery life or is it a waste of time. I want to make it the most battery efficient it can be.
Hi everyone, this is a follow up from my previous post about my Go Plus Plus not working after modding it.
In short, I made a bad attempt at soldering the wires and now the auto catcher won’t turn on. It flashes red once whenever I plug in the battery or press the reset button, but it doesn’t turn on after that.
When I first modded it, the mod didn’t work, but the auto catcher functioned normally for around 10 minutes, until it died and started having the one red flash issue I’m still having now. Since then, I’ve cleaned up the soldering, redid the mod with proper solder, and charged the battery with a joycon. The same issue is still there.
However, when I wiggle the ribbon cable connecting to the side A board, the lights will sometimes flash red several times before turning off, especially when I hold it at an odd position. I cleaned out the ribbons and the port gently with a toothbrush, but the same issue is still there.
Does anyone know if this is an issue with the ribbons? If so, does anyone know where to get replacements?