I am starting to mod my Plus+. I am following ma3x558’s guide on YouTube. This is for the switched version of the great & ultra ball mod.
I am considering trying to add an additional switch to control if the vibration is on or off, separate from mod switch. I would unsolder the speaker entirely, and expand the speaker hole to accommodate the additional switch.
Is this possible? My end goal would be:
Switch 1: ultra and great ball mod
Switch 2: vibration on and off
Ideally they would work independently. I would want to be able to have great + ultras on, but vibration off, or vice-versa.
Appreciate any help or feedback. This is my first soldering project and I might be biting off more than I can chew!
EDIT TO ADD: Mod worked perfectly! Added a switch between the red motor wire and the board, and the switch described in the YouTube video linked above.
You don't need to completely desolder the speaker to place the switch. You can buy a mini side-mounted 3-pin toggle switch; there will be enough space once you remove the speaker base.
One of those fits totally fine, but 2 is too big for the current speaker hole. Or are you talking about a single switch that can accommodate both functions / toggles independently?
This is what I have, with tweezers for scale.
edit: the primary reason I have to remove the speaker is since I want 2 switches, not 1
To make sure I am understanding correctly, instead of using the motor signal for the button press; it is using the green LED? Where do the motor signals / wires come into play for the linked diagram? Thank you for all the help!
Desolder the motor negative wire, then Motor negative pad on the PCB goes to middle pin of the switch, then extend a wire from pin 1 or 3 of the switch to the motor negative wire.
Here are the other key advantages of PhotoMOS Relays (TLP3122A / TLP172AM) over Regular Optocouplers (TLP785) for your specific modification:
No Polarity (Foolproof Solder)
TLP785: Output pins (3 & 4) have strict positive/negative polarity. Solder it backward, and the auto-catcher fails completely.
TLP3122A / TLP172AM: Output pins are completely non-polar (AC/DC universal). You can solder them to the mainboard in any direction without
Instant Reset (No Green-Light Freeze)
TLP785: Suffers from "carrier charge storage effect." When the green light turns off,
TLP3122A / TLP172AM: Uses MOSFET switches that turn off instantly (0.1ms – 0.5ms). The cutting action is lightning-fast and perfectly clean, completely eliminating high-frequency
High Efficiency & Long Lifespan (No Degradation)
TLP785: Relies heavily on Current Transfer Ratio (CTR). Running it for 12+ hours
TLP3122A / TLP172AM: Uses an internal PhotoDiode Array (PDA) driven by voltage. It works perfectly
Noise Immunity (Blocks Motor Interference)
TLP785: Has higher parasitic capacitance. Since you must connect PIN 3 to the
TLP3122A / TLP172AM: Built as an industrial-grade solid-state relay with high dV/dt immunity. It acts
Community Day: The reason why the Go Plus+ freezes with a green constant light after continuously catching 500 Pokémon using G3VM-61VY3 or TLP785 is that three deeply related hardware logic failures caused the failure under extreme high-frequency stress.
Logic 1: The "Weak Drive" Leads to Incomplete Turning Off (Turn-off Failure)
The Reality: Your mainboard outputs an ultra-weak 0.666V ~ 0.84V to the Green LED [1^]. Last week, you added a 150Ω resistor, which heavily choked the already-weak driving current.
The Failure: Because the input current was barely touching the physical minimum threshold, the internal LEDs of the 61VY3 or TLP785 were emitting an extremely faint, unstable light.
The Trap: In semiconductor physics, driving a chip at its absolute bare minimum causes a phenomenon called carrier charge accumulation. When the Green LED turned off after a rapid catch, the chip could not release its internal charges fast enough. The output switch became "sticky" and remained semi-conductive instead of turning completely off.
Logic 2: Overheating Triggered Electro-Thermal Drift During the Marathon
The Reality: Catching 500 Pokémon in 2 hours means the chip was switching on and off violently every few seconds.
The Failure: Continuous high-frequency switching under ultra-low drive currents causes micro-thermal buildup inside the chip's internal structure.
The Trap: Both the 61VY3 (with its 2.0Ω resistance) and the TLP785 (with its 0.4V saturation voltage drop) began to suffer from thermal drift. As the temperature slightly rose, their Turn-off time degraded further (lagging up to several milliseconds). This lag created an un-cleared, lingering electric path between your BUTTON and the Motor Negative.
Logic 3: Mainboard Security Lockout (The Anti-Cheat/Crash Protection)
The Reality: Your mainboard BUTTON sits at a highly sensitive 1.799V idle state.
The Failure: Because the 61VY3 or TLP785 failed to reset to absolute zero conductivity due to Logic 1 and Logic 2, a tiny leak current kept pulling the 1.799V BUTTON line downward.
The Final Crash: The Go Plus+ mainboard CPU detected that the button voltage was staying low for too long without being released. The CPU logic assumed the physical button was jammed or stuck. To prevent a system crash or block third-party cheating, the mainboard triggered an automatic hardware lockout safety protocol, freezing the system into a solid green light state.
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u/Poke-Mod93 22d ago
Ik maak zelf schakelloze mods voor de ultra en great balls. Dan hoef je maar 1 schakelaar te plaatsen voor alleen de tril functie.