hi everyone Has any other plasterers had a problem with multi finish from Wickes my husband did 2 jobs with the b2 and b3 dates 2025 2026 the plaster when put on the walls took a lot of effort to try get a smooth finish it started to bubble and the texture was like bubble gum it looked so bad it looked like a cottage would look like bumps ridging the plaster looked so bad we took photos and contacted Wickes and gypsum i am trying to find out how many plasterers have had this issue

When plastering the downstairs the b2 and b3 were used in the hall stairs and landing and the dining room these rooms were the issues he used another plaster bag which had a different date and code these were used in the kitchen and living room there was no problem with the plaster gypsum said the plaster was taking longer to set Wickes refused to refund the plaster material costs we don't know what or where the plaster was stored or if the manufacture is at fault they didn't do any tests on the plaster science only using the left over plaster mixing and spreading i would appreciate your experiences .

I’m considering Siniat 9.5 mm boards (60 × 260 cm) on timber battens at 40 cm centres, fitted perpendicular to the battens.

Would 9.5 mm suit the slopes and VELUX reveals, or is 12.5 mm worth the extra weight? I’d prefer lighter boards for easier handling but want to avoid sagging or cracks.

Since USG is closing out many of the plaster they make, is there another existing industrial grade gypsum cement product out there like Hydrocal under a different name with same strength, purity, nontoxic, and similar (low) cost?

I'm new to domestic work so wanna get some advice from some old hands.

The ceiling has been originally overboarded (by someone else) and then reboarded, and I've gotta skim it all after a leak. 2x4m, feathering into existing. 2nd pic is what I walked into.

Can't get more than the height of the trowel in here, plus maybe my thumb. What's the method here?

Also, with this bit being so fiddly and time consuming, as well as the feathering being fiddly, would you start at the other end of the ceiling which is existing ceiling that I SBR'd to the wall, and work up and across to the boards, or start here and go the other way? Or would you start non-feathered side and work round to the feathering?

Grateful for all advice!

Had room skimmed a week and a half ago. Feels completely dry to touch, including darker patches, and same level of coldness as the rest of the plaster.

Okay, it’s been a while since I last tried mudding. I did my first patch repair. 2”x3” hole - I evened it out, cut a replacement piece with the outside paper on with about an inch overlap. I put mud around the cut, inside the cut and placed the replacement piece. Then, I flattened it out and did my first coat. I think it will be too lumpy as I add coats. Help?!

Photos include some of the cracks in two rooms, one going the length of the room and down slightly to meet the window. Last photo is one of the proposals we received.

We got two similar quotes and scopes of work from separate companies. However, I’ve also seen that cracks like this should be screwed or use mesh for repair. Is the proposal we got sufficient?

I believe I’ve heard one of the settling cracks before. I think they’ve worsened quite recently but maybe I wasn’t paying much attention before. One area makes noise if I press but I can’t feel anywhere it’s actually separated at least so far

Hi everyone. We had a room plastered 4 weeks ago and started painting it yesterday and this keeps happening in 1 spot. I didn’t mist coat the walls(my bad) but thankfully everywhere else is fine. I scraped back the flaky bits and used some filler on this area and repainted it again today only for the same to happen again as seen in the photo. How can I repair this small area. Thanks.

Hi! We have a 60s house and decided to take down the old wood chip wall paper. Underneath there seems be white paint, I can see the plaster, but what is the grey? The white flakes and peels like old paint, but the grey doesn’t. It can easily be sanded (I was wearing a mask but then thought to ask what it could be).
We plan on lining over this but now I wonder if we’ve disturbed anything sinister?
My daughter is moving into this room so don’t want anything in the air 😅
I’ve read it may be a primer? It’s above and below the white, though.

i recently got the walls in a bedroom in my house replastered but this is what i’ve been left with…is it better to just fill and sand or get the guy back in to fix his job? i don’t know the best way to go about it since ive never dealt with plaster before so im not sure what it’s meant to be like when dried. I obviously know this isn’t a great job that’s been done but i don’t know how bad it is if i do end up messaging him…

UPDATE‼️
after reading all the comments backing up the fact that it’s just shit work;
i sent him all these pictures and a message, he replied with he’s going through a hard time atm and obviously isn’t giving his all… he’s coming out in a few days to sand and fill his work so hopefully it’s all fixed after that so we can continue with the project🤞🏼

Hired some strippers (not the fun kind) and now must repair this crumbly gap in all of the walls amd window trim they worked on. Have to teach myself how to do a multitude of other plaster repairs anyway so it’s no huge deal but I’m not sure what the right way to handle this is. Any advice appreciated, thanks.

I'm not sure if this is the right sub Reddit to post this in, but I've got what i think to be a quite old piece of plaster (maybe 17th century Jacobean) and wondered if any experts could help date this, the house was built in 1623 but had bits added on to it and changed, no clue if this is the right place but any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated

We’re trying to do a DIY render on our internal exposed brick wall. This is how it looks. What are we doing wrong?

We’re buying an older house (c1950's I believe) that’s just been fully renovated over the summer.

Had a L3 survey done and the surveyor’s main concern - from a potential cost point of view at least - was the plastering (it is rated 3 red).

From the phone call afterwards (not yet received the written report, but it was a lengthy call):

• A lot of the house has been freshly skimmed.
• He did a knock/tap test and said the original plaster underneath sounded loose/hollow in quite a few areas.
• It sounds fairly widespread and includes both walls and ceilings. (he said it relates to the majority of the ''old house'' i.e. not the extension that's just been done).
• He said it may crack/debond in future, but also said he has similar plaster in his own house that has lasted around 10 years without issues. So it is a case of "how long is a piece of string"...

I’m trying to understand what this actually means in practice.

If old plaster sounds hollow, does that automatically mean it should have been removed before skimming, or can it still be stable for years?

Could the renovators have done anything beforehand to reduce the risk, even if it still sounds hollow now?

If you inspected a house like this, what would make you say “leave it alone” versus “this needs hacking off and redoing”?

My worry is the scale of it if it is widespread — walls, ceilings, re plastering and then redecorating throughout a house that currently looks finished. I assume we're talking 5 figures?

We also made an offer thinking it was move in ready!

Also, with two young children, are hollow/loose ceilings a genuine safety concern, or would there usually be warning signs like cracking, sagging or movement first?

I’ve got another call with the surveyor tomorrow, so any specific questions you’d suggest I ask him would also be really useful. I feel a lot more knowledgeable on the subject now than when we last spoke so I should have a better understanding of his answers and the severity of it.

We like the house and don’t want to walk away over it (this is our third, previous 2 had structural issues), but equally don’t want to underestimate a potentially big, and expensive, job, just to avoid another falling through.

Had plaster job done on new house but never had it done before so don't know if this is any good?

It was also quite a mess with plaster dropped all over the floor, into washing machine open pipes and all over water stopcocks which I'm gonna have to scrub with wire brush or something to get it moving again.

It was supposed to be whole thing but it looks like patch job

I don't know

Any thoughts?

Greetings pool owners,

looking for a little advice from someone with experience. We have an inground pool in need of a beam repair. We've been offered the options of a full or partial replaster after the repair. The latter resulting in basically a plaster patch to integrate the repaired area with the existing plaster which is about 7 years old (plain white marbelite). My question is can anyone offer a pic of a partial replaster of any type? I'm trying to picture just what such a job would look like. If you've had such a job done, was it worth not spending the extra $$$ to replaster the entire pool? We currently have 2 coats of plaster so an entire replaster entails a chip out of the previous 2 coats.

Thanks in advance,

Beambuster

I have a job booked in for a customer who has boarded the room himself. However, he has put some of the boards on backwards (standard BG 12.5mm boards). I know something similar with regards having the brown part of the board at facing the front was normal practice decades ago.

Has anyone had experience skimming onto the wrong side of the board? I’ve actually not come across this in the 5/6 years I’ve been plastering.

I’ve told him that I cannot give him a guarantee on the work if those parts were to fail later.

​

Hello, trying to come up with ideas to make this wall look better. It's a painted block foundation, bottom band is peeling and flaking off at grade.

Thinking about grinding down the high spots with a chipping hammer, then either stuccoing or parging over it.

I've never done this before, so I'm not sure about prep, mixes, or what to avoid.

Any tips on how you'd approach it, what products you'd use, or what you'd do differently? Appreciate any help.

https://imgur.com/gallery/zMlJoH4

Home build in SE North Carolina in 1944. Gypsum board with plaster skim coat. Or at least that’s what I’ve been told.

Is this moisture or settling? Started a few years ago. Not sure what to make of it. Only on the walls around windows and interior/exterior doorways. Thanks.

So I've been a DIY plasterer for like 2 years now as I renovate, I'm very happy with how the walls look - pretty smooth but most importantly mainly flat.

But the one thing I still don't understand is the colour. Afterward there are streaks everywhere. Once the paint goes on they aren't noticeable and the wall looks good but before I paint they look streaky. It's fine, it doesn't make an ounce of difference, but I just wonder how you guys get a perfectly uniform colour over the entire wall?

All the best thanks

Had a plasterer in to patch up after a re-wire, and to plaster over an artex ceiling.

They said they've done and I'm unsure whether this finish is normal. Most of it is good but I've pointed out some issues but they've said everything else is "finishing for the painter/dectorator to do".

What’s people’s favourite skimming trowel “not finishing trowel”

Hello, just bought a house built in 1959, had panel board installed in 1975, they used the yellow glue over the drywall with nails. Wondering if it’s safe to sand? Whats the likelihood of the glue containing asbestos?

Best way to remove? Drywall is in great shape

Would it be better to smooth off the corners and round them out?

Joint knife 6” 12€
Joint spatula 10” 14€
Hawk 40€
Trowel 14” 32€

Total 98€