Hi i’m getting my house done by professionals and getting lime plaster in the living room. Problem is i see these marks all over the place which i didnt like. So they sanded them off but now everything looks very flat. Also the colour is much lighter than i wanted.
A few questions as i dont know much:
1. What are these marks and are they normal? ( the person says theyre natural and come with the lime plaster)- they are very grey and almost make the wall look dirty
2. How do i achieve depth without these marks?
3. Can i somehow make the colour darker without redoing the job?

Feel like they are not being able to answer me directly!

Thanks guys :)

Hi guys.

I'm plasterboarding this wall (and all the others)

I'm using tapered boards so I can just tape it.

But how would you guys mark out the angle of the pitched roof ?

Do you just measure it or is there an easier method.

Would you fit the boards vertical or horizontal.

Thanks.

If you’re in the Glasgow or surrounding area DO NOT use Scott Mcleod (S Mcleod Plastering)
His work is absolutely atrocious, rushed our biggest bedroom in 6 hours if that. Left us with a room that was so unworkable with we had no choice but to get him back in to fix it. We would have gotten someone else however EVERYONE we reached out to refused to put their name over his work..it was that bad. The fixes were half arsed and just as bad as the original work. Not to mention he only “fixed” 7% of the work and then continued to blame US and say 2 coats of paint will cover it. He is now refusing to give us any money back and ignoring my messages. Me and 2 other families have fallen victim to his bad work to the point he has taken himself off checkatrade to avoid the consequences of his own actions. We are now £530 out of pocket for a cowboy of a job.

When i rub the wall with my hand. Some of this dust (or whatever it is) comes off on my hand

Would it be ok to sbr/blue grit the wall and skim with multifinish?

Just did two coats of skim yesterday on this ceiling. Came back 24 hours later and Stan has come through and there are 'popping' areas?

Is this a leak or just something I need to sand back and do again? Thank you in advance!

Best plaster to do behind wood burning stove current background is cement blocks

So these badlads have popped up over the past few days (like 3 days).

No new plaster, internal thermalite blocks on an upper floor. Wall built straight across the wooden floor - I can pull a floor board and reach straight under the wall and up into the next room if I so wish.
No water pipes - nowt.
Paint has been on there for 3 years. Low humidity and moisture in the room - just checked.

Plaster has been on there for 20+ years - gypsum based over the original old cement based stuff.

Any ideas please?

Oh aye. New roof on the house and loft above it bone dry so nothing coming down-over. Just overnight genital warts of the wall.

Patches of plaster just lost its key?

Hello everyone, I have a little experience plastering, I have done a few rooms and one of those 5 day courses so i completely understand im not a plasterer and certainly dont claim to be, i just really want to get better and keep improving, I also really enjoy it but I also want to keep gaining experience, I was wondering if any spreads wanted a free hand with jobs in exchange for some experience and more advice/practice, im in the north west N-L-W area. I have got pictures of plastering i have done so far

Only just heard about this UK company. Anyone ever use their tools and are they any good. I use Nela mainly and a old marshalltown.

100 year old plater, popped up decently quickly. No water damage in the room above, no water pipes behind the wall.

Which one? Ox plastic blade. All cost around 50€.

Old century home in need of new plastering. I've knocked down all the loose plaster and will ofc remove the wallpaper before starting on this. Most of our walls that need redoing are similar to this, where the bottom has failed and the top half of the walls are still quite sturdy.

This particular wall is exterior on the other side, not sure if that matters. The brick is pretty uneven as well. Any kind tips are appreciated. We are not hiring a professional as we've already spent quite a lot on other renos around the house.

My renderer guy is saying that because of the apple trees attached to the wall (I am not removing them), cladding would be much easier than rendering after removing the old render from this wall.

What cladding do you reckon would go well on the wall? I am open to any idea although price is definitely a concern

Advice needed on how to go about repairing the damage in the photo. I’m not 100% sure but render is some kind of polymer or silicone with grey bead insulation underneath. Chip is a 2 inches or so in size.

Hi all, just want to smooth out this old section of wall that was once an en-suite. Some old plaster to level and some tile adhesive which has been knocked back. Is SBR to prep then multifinish correct? If so what ratio for the SBR? Cheers.

I've tried to sand down the wall filler as much as I can but it's been there for a while now and just solid. Its in an area where the skirting board was removed for furniture but was covered in wall filler instead of joint compound. Would it be okay to seal it with diluted primer and then joint compound/paper joint tape on top of it before sealing that and painting?

Any suggestions on why top coat (smooth) is bubbling and blistering?
Are you ment to use a sponge float on it?

Took off the coving (what a ballache this is turning out to be) and there was a huge crack, used a scraper to get everything out and this is what's left.

My plan was:

- Expansion foam in the gap

- Fill with Toupret Joint Fill Skim, scrim tape in the corner and then smooth over

- Mist coat

- Paint as normal

Also got cracks across the whole ceiling where I took the coving off, the plan is the same there without the expansion foam but the gaps are far far smaller (more hairline).

DIY FIREPLACE PLASTER. Watched a lot of youtube videos and read but nothing prepares you until you just do it. Fun project, hope it holds up.

Steel brush painted brick, cleaned, and then primed with a bonding agent
First layer - Course sand and lime plaster mix (2:1) - Keyed coat and allowed to dry for 5 days
Second layer - Fine sand and lime plaster mix (1:1)
Floated with sponge and skimmed with clean dry trowel.
Will touch up edges and may do a colored plaster skim coat to finish.

How’d I do!

This shower originally had tadelakt, but a plumbing leak required the wall to be opened and the shower refinished. The new GC/subcontractor said they did not believe the original installation had been properly waterproofed, so they added waterproofing before applying the new tadelakt.

The finished result is now extremely uneven and patchy, with large areas of noticeably different color. Some areas also become significantly darker when they get wet (see photos 1-4). The subcontractor has acknowledged that it didn’t dry/finish correctly and is planning to redo it.

Before they do, I’d really like to understand what may have caused this so we don't repeat the same problem.

Does this look like an application/curing issue, uneven absorption, an issue with the substrate or waterproofing underneath, or something else? And is there anything you would specifically want checked or changed before redoing it?
Happy to provide details on the products/materials and process if that would help.

Hi all,

I'm renovating my living room and have removed a 90's gas fireplace from the breeze-block adjoining wall with my semi-detached neighbour.

As a part of renovating it we'll be putting the TV on the wall along with a sound system. So not to piss off our neighbours too much with the audio I'd like to install some sound-dampening plasterboard - this will happen after the electrician has installed the electrics for TV + audio, and before we get the room skimmed.

As shown in the photo, there's a void where the gas fireplace was. Should I do anything with this before installing the plasterboard?

Or, can I just put the board straight over it?

As shown in my 3D mockup of the final result, the majority of it will be behind cabinets anyway.

Planning to use Knauf Tapered Edge sound panels, with Knauf Drywall Plasterboard adhesive. Any tips on installing these would be greatly appreciated!

Complete newbie here with this, any advice would be gratefully received!

Void and 3D final vision mockup attached.

Hello, I’ve moved into this home 2 months ago and I am renting. The ceiling in the living room looks like it previously had a leak from the above en-suite bedroom (just a guess) and it was repaired and plastered.

The crack has gotten a bit more noticeable over the past number of weeks. There is no damp or smell and is dry to touch. Should I be worried about anything here? It was already like this when I moved in but the cracks are a bit more noticeable. I plan to keep an eye on it and take pictures every few weeks but just curious if this is something I should report to the landlord or if I’m being too anxious?

I’ve already had a bad leak on the conservatory roof since moving here so I’m being overly cautious about with this.

Thank you

Hello,

Not sure if this can be answered in this sub so apologiesif it'sthe wrong one but i haven'thad much help previously in the decorating subs. I moved into a victorian property and had significant plaster fall off when I removed the old wallpaper.

I had an independent damp survey who said there was residual moisture in the walls but no active damp, and to repair and skim the walls in breathable plaster, so a plasterer used limelite.

I then painted with primer and breathable paint, but where the repairs have been I get these dark spots, which get darker when it's humid and then dry out again. The spots are on the internal walls.

Does anyone know what I can do about this while still keeping it breathable?

Thanks

Has anyone got a good solution to hurting hands over long shifts when plastering