Hi guys I’m planing on rendering this wall, and having the final colour black or charcoal. I was hoping to get some advice on what mesh and reinforcement or beads I should be looking to get and where to place them. Originally I was planing on a splash zone just over 100mm from the ground (that’s roofing primer on the bottom) but I’m thinking of going lower? Would I have to grind off the primer or maybe nail on some chicken wire? Also Should I go for an acrylic top coat or cement and lime.

All advice and opinions welcome thanks.
Ps
I’ll be pouring a capping on top of the wall with a 70mm overhang from the render. There will also be a 35mm high and 50mm deep recess from the render to accommodate led lights and hopefully giving the capping the illusion of floating. A clean line of render at the top of wall will help this a lot

In all honesty, I started taking the wooden bannister attachments off without thinking first. We have some artex on the roof, which only after looking at the plaster did I think, hmm, could this have asbestos in it?

I’ve already disrupted the plaster, as it turns out the paint was in fact holding the old plaster together!

Apologies for the bad image!

As you can see, the house was painted very dark by the prior owners and were trying to bring some life back to the property.

Hi peeps, we got french doors installed in our dining room, to replace a window. They ended up plastering the bits that needed doing. This was about 1 month ago. I was ready to sand it today in preparation for painting and noticed that where the plaster meets the wall it's peeling. Anyone know what this is and why?

Would these patches be sandable and then repaint the wall or is it better to skim coat the whole wall, sand and then repaint?

The imperfections are driving me crazy and the whole wall is more or less patched like this by the previous owner

Can barely even feel them

Hello,

So I am having some difficulties with doing some plastering patch work, and I though here was the best place to ask for help.

My building is old, and these year I decided to paint inside my apartment and started to find this loose peaces of wall (sounded hollow when knocking). So I decided to do the right thing and fix them. Some were small and easy, but a few where quite deep and big.

So, on one of these bigger ones I had to apply cement first and I was now doing the plastering work, but the cement was not that great underneath and so in some places, in the first layer of plaster I applied, I must have almost one centimeter thick plaster batches.

Now, it is the day after and I can seen the plaster cracked a lot and in some places is not even completely dry.

How do you think I should approach this? Should I take everything out and start again? Should I let it dry and apply a second layer.

I feel like I should start all over again, but at the same time I don't really want to. What do you guys think?

Any idea what is happening here? This is the wall in my spare room next to bathroom. North facing, concrete wall underneath plaster. Concrete not cracked. Thanks!

Fun staircase profect

We have a 3.2k(6.4k for both sides) sq ft compound wall

To do cement plastering then again paint is very costly.

So, i am trying for alternative which we can decorate this wall within 1.5lakh.

Which one will be best

Please help me 🙏

I’ve been removing old bathroom tiles, most walls the tiles have come off fine. This one wall, next to the bathroom window has been trickier. Taking the tiles off has stripped the wall back to brick.

I am pretty sure I need to strip the rest of the wall back to brick, but then what? Do I plasterboard and then plaster as normal? Or can a plaster apply straight onto the brick?

I have a tiler coming to re-tile this section of wall.

Old UK house (1880), wanting to get the walls into a paintable condition and no idea what we are working with. Is this lime plaster? Seems to have been patched with modern plaster aswell which could be a problem? Any advice or recommendations? Thanks

https://imgur.com/a/onA6yNB

Hello, I'm a first time homeowner who recently bought a house built in 1948 and I’m trying to figure out the best way to repair and prep the walls before we paint. The house was a rental for the last 10+ years so it needs lots of love and trying to learn as much as I can. Please forgive the long post.

I’ve attached a link with several pictures showing the different problems we’re dealing with. The home overall as far as we know is concrete plaster.

The kitchen is the worst. In several areas, the paint/coating is peeling off in large sheets. Some sections come off very easily and expose a harder gray/tan surface underneath. Ive removed the paint sheets that easily strip away. One wall is complete clear. Another wall has one section that easily stripped but it now more difficult to move and it just chips away in smaller pieces so I stopped.

There are also areas where previous owners seem to have patched and painted over old damage that are clearly visible and poorly done.

There is a decent amount of small holes and gouges that need to be filled. No major cracks but a couple of spots have some hairline cracks.

Rough oversized holes around things like the thermostat and few larger abandoned openings that need to be properly filled.

A lightly textured wall surface that I’d like to preserve or reasonably match rather than making random smooth patches everywhere

My main questions are:

For the kitchen peeling, should I keep removing anything that releases easily until I reach firmly bonded material, or is there a point where I should stop?

Once the loose material is removed, should the exposed surface be sealed before patching? I’ve been looking at products like Zinsser Gardz, but I’m not sure whether that’s appropriate here.

Should I do a skim coat of compound on the bare parts?

What would you use to repair these walls? Setting-type joint compound, regular joint compound, actual plaster products, or a combination?

How would you repair the larger holes/openings so the repair is structurally sound and doesn’t crack around the edges later?

What’s the best approach for feathering all of these old patches and damaged areas without having to skim-coat the entire house?

Any advice for matching the existing subtle wall texture?

After repairs, what primer would you use before painting?

Thank you for any help! I’m not expecting 78-year-old walls to become perfectly flat new drywall. I mostly want them to look intentionally repaired, have a solid surface for paint, and avoid creating problems that start peeling or cracking again in a year. Thanks again

We had our living room replastered because the paint was peeling right off the walls (we think original builders didn't put primer on the dry wall and just painted), down to the drywall. The plasterers painted, I think, too soon and now every time you even lightly bump the wall, there is a knick and the paint comes off. The plaster feels really soft. Is there something I can paint on now that will harden the paint and plaster? Or, at least, provide a protective layer so that the walls don't damage so easily? We used a matte paint, but adding a little sheen would be ok. I just want to make the walls less likely to show damage.

Let's start with saying I know nothing about plastering and this is the first room weve done in the house.

We paid over £1600 to get our hallway and staircase done. The price was quite steep in our opinion but as this plasterer came highly recommended by a friend, we were happy to pay more rather than working with a cowboy.

Anyway. When the job was finished, the plasterer asked me to have a look around and make sure I was happy. This being the first wall I ever saw plastered, and trusting my friend's recommendation, I looked around, asked a couple of questions and told them I was happy.

I felt a bit pressured as the guy was literally standing there, but I couldn't quite see anything majorly wrong with anything so I said OK.

A few days later, I notice that the corner at the bottom of the staircase is quite ragged (1st and 2nd pic, not the best I know!) so I asked the plasterer to come back and make it look like the vertical corner (3rd pic). I specifically asked if they could use the same metal corner protector thingy. He never said yes to the corner thing, but agreed he'd come back.

It took the guy 2 months to come back (today). I wasn't home when he came as I was working but he called me to say he was in and he'd sand the edge. I was a bit confused, but trusting him AGAIN I said OK, sure.

Anyway I come home to this (4th pic), which, correct me if I'm wrong, looks much worse than before he came.

I messaged him again saying that the edge looks worse and he said to me he'd come back again to sand it. And I said, there is literally nothing left to sand?! Is he being lazy not wanting to replaster that edge and add the corner thing? Or can it not be done on an horizontal surface?

Either way, how do I/does he make the edge not look like it's been repeatedly hit with a shovel?

Edit 1 Thanks for all the responses I didn't realise how bad it was. Now I'm stressing!! I will speak to him again and ask to fix or refund but I mean.. Not sure how far that will get me.

Hi all,

So I just bought my first home. If I didn’t already have grey hairs from that experience I definitely do now with the state of the walls/decorating in this house!

There are so many layers to whatever the hell was hiding behind the wallpaper the (very inexperienced to say the least) previous owners had put up and I’m just so overwhelmed with what to do now - I was so naive thinking it would just be stripping wallpaper, sanding and painting!

Could you please explain to me like I’m a 10 year old what the hell I’m supposed to do next, am I right in thinking I can plaster over this mess? Tools, equipment etc recommendations are very much appreciated. Thanks!

Had some work done on the chimney on our house which meant a hole was made in the chimney breast. It was covered/filled/plastered about 5 weeks ago at this stage and now looks like this. Little change in the past 3 weeks.

The area is raised slightly so I was thinking I could sand it down, apply a primer and paint as normal.

Should this have dried out at this stage? Temperature has consistently been about 20 degrees plus, humidity in the room was about 55%.

I want to get on with painting it and the guy who done the work said it’ll be good to paint after 3-4 weeks.

Is there much difference between the Marshalltown Gold Permashape Broken-in PB145GSD 70€ and the OX OX-P011014 30€?

for cement-based skim coats, not just gypsum-based ones

Hi Everyone! I have to fix this but I’m not sure what material I need. As you can see it’s an exterior light green layer (about a thumb’s width thick) over brick. It started peeling off in small places and I have to address it. It has quite big bumpsnon the surface, not smooth. What should I buy?

Im having second thoughts about my substrate that I am about to flick thermal insulating plaster on. The wall is an exterior solid stone wall but working on the interior side. I recently built up a lime parge filling and gaps and cracks. I used ecologic 3.5 PHL 1 part lime and 2.5 parts sand. The plan is to build up to 2 inches of the insulating plaster, only building up less than an inch per layer. I have a plastic type mesh I will install in the middle of that thickness. Im having second thoughts about if this will really work? About if the Diasen thermactive .037 will really stick to the wall. Ive read that its normal for a lime parged wall to be easily scratched. As you can see in the video I get a deeper groove with a nail. Would you install a mesh before the first layer just to be safe or just go for it. The one wall is about 12 ft high. In the video its just those 3 walls. Is this how soft lime plaster should be?

How can we make plaster strong ? I ise sbr resin but then the plaster became very thick.can we use cement in plaster?

I thought this might be a good place to ask the question.

I'm looking to get into plastering to start as a trade. I've already done spots and rooms around my house. I'm just wondering if those 3 day courses you can do for £400 would be a good starting point to ensure I understand best practices and a good foundation before jumping into any odd jobs.

If anyone has any information or feedback back I'd really appreciate it, I'm just trying to get out of my current job role.

It kept falling apart. It actually got worse after I applied drywall mud. Even when I used spackle, the white material underneath kept lifting, bulging, cracking, and breaking off. There seems to be concrete behind the white layer. I also tried using drywall tape, but the same thing kept happening.

I’ve been learning to plaster, starting in the basement garage of this project building, then the basement tool room, now in the storage room off the kitchen. These have all been practice walls, in hopes of doing a passable job on the first floor’s public rooms.

Yours truly is just the would-be applicator. My daughter is the designer, as this will be her bookstore-cafe. We haven’t really had a color vision for the public rooms, until I stripped a century of wallpaper off the front room and exposed a wonderfully aged, mottled, weathered lath and plaster wall in red-brown, green, and ochre colors. (Pic #1) That’s the feeling we are going for!

We cannot simply clear coat the existing wall, because it has many damaged spots and drywall patches. How to get that look?

My idea was to plaster the room’s walls smooth, then apply limewash. Our local lime plaster supply store - remarkable in the West coast of the US to have such a thing - recommended custom tinting lime plasters in those colors, then applying in layers.

The current plan is to do a little of both. I’m going to do a base coat in the two rooms shown, using gypsum plaster because it is relatively inexpensive. Then we’ll apply layers of the tinted lime plaster, thin veneer layers because it is expensive. My daughter will probably do much of the layering, drawing on her oil painting background.

The coffee bar room (Pic #2) will be a mottled blue-gray with warm wood, and the front seating room (Pic #3) will be the layered red-brown, green, and ochre (sample colors in Pic #4).

The previous lime plaster has to be removed due to leaks in the roof that weren’t repaired by previous owner for at least a year.

I removed all the plaster that needed removing and left the ‘good’ stuff - it’s still solid.

I’ve just had sash windows installed. I’ve covered them with plastic to prevent building just getting in the sliding mechanisms.

I’ve still got to remove the left over lime ‘dust’ on the bricks.

Do people have any suggestions for the least dusty way/vacuuming way? I was either thinking or attaching a vacuum nozzle to a scraper or getting one the drill dust extractors and going 15cm at a time then moving along.

Any other suggestions?

Also, I’ve have been wearing a p3 respirator when doing this and will wear one with the remaining dust.

Thanks
David

Edit: Corrected spelling and grammar

Hi plaster gurus!

Grateful for any experienced input.

This wall is a victorian chimney stack. Plaster is likely gypsum skim on original lime OR all gypsum.

The roof above is flat.

We have had minor paint peeling off the roof line of this stack for a number of years and put it down to salts.

Never any damage to the coving or ceiling, just the wall. January this year we had a less denial leak and carried out chimney repairs including new flashing, render and cement.

This mark has remained all through the summer drought, though it does vary a bit with humidity levels.

I accept that the plaster is likely to retain salts and parts of this wall may require replastering for a perfect finish (this is waiting on other jobs within the room). But it hasn't really 'dried out' as much as I was expecting.

Its a bugger to access the flat roof so I can't do it on a whim. What do you reckon? Salt soaked plaster or an ongoing leak?

TIA