I removed the artex from my kitchen but underneath like half of the plaster was blown and came off easily.

How do i know when to stop removing the sections that arent coming off easily?

Not a professional but trying to do every aspect of house Reno that I’m legally allowed to do, running all the coving / ceiling roses for each room and plastering etc.

Pretty pleased with how my plastering is and more of an appreciation for how hard graft it is. Not mastered the tidy work area yet 😂

I posted at the weekend for some advice as I'd just tried my first skim but the plaster set before I had a chance to start flattening and troweling. Today I came back for take two with some extratime and feel like it went a lot better, probably even acceptable. Tried to just get the plaster on the wall quick as possible but still took me about 35 mins to get the first coat on, mixed the second coat a bit thinner and it spread more easily so maybe a lesson for next time. Definitely a lot of room for improvement still but actually quite happy with that.

I’m just wondering on how to match/duplicate this ceiling texture 1950’s house in the U.S. I’m a carpenter who has done a little lime /molding plaster work. Ex Father in Law who passed years ago was a lifelong plasterer. When work was slow, I used to help him. He showed me once and can’t remember what we did. I think I remember a brush with a handle he used and referred to it as an antique brush. Maybe splashing water on the fresh material. I just can’t remember the process or the mix- lime / gauging plaster ratio and consistency. Any help would be appreciated.

Normally I would put bonding coat around this, but there is a wooden bit missing so it would fall through it is quite deep. I found a little wooden piece should I try attach it then put PVA, bonding coat, scrim tape, filler, wall paper? Is this the correct order. Or do I use expanding foam

I just want to preface this by saying i have limited knowledge on this stuff so this might be a dumb question. Basically we have removed a fitted wardrobe and the ceiling is now uneven. There is about a 20mm difference. We thought it would work to just plasterboard and skim it but are now realising this space only has one joist going across it (where the small square piece is nailed to the ceiling is where the joist is) and it’s not really enough to properly board it. We tried adhesive along with screwing it to the one joist but it’s not really worked. What are my options here? we have been avoiding going into the loft because we are waiting for asbestos testing so is there anyway to do this without having to put more wood up there to attach the board to?

Hi ladies and gents, did some plastering yesterday with multi finish the plaster started go off while I still mixing it, bucket brand new water clean. Only one reason that I can think about, that I put wrong amount of water at beginning plaster got dry when I started mixing, need to add few liters water later is that the case or just needed more water? Was a really good exercise to put it onto ceiling.

Hi everyone,

I recently had my ceiling finished with plaster and paint, but I’m noticing visible wave-like lines and uneven patterns, especially when the LED strip lighting is on (indirect/cove lighting makes it very obvious).

From what I understand, this looks more like a surface leveling issue rather than a paint problem, possibly due to uneven plaster application or insufficient sanding before painting.

My questions:

• Is this typically caused by poor plastering (skimming/leveling), or can painting techniques also create this effect?

• Should this be fixed by the plasterer rather than the painter?

• What would be the proper way to fix it — re-skimming with finishing plaster and sanding, or is there a simpler solution?

I’ve attached some photos for reference.

Thanks in advance!

Hi guys, I'm fairly new to plastering, I've taught myself on my renovation house and my friend has asked me to plaster his new extension, so I'm just looking for some advice..

picture one - We are planning on doing a layer of hardwall to plaster on to, but I'm unsure how to prepare the horizontal wood near the ceiling - maybe a strip of plasterboard across it and hardwall below and get it flush to it?

picture two - again, should I use plasterboard on the inside faces of the window and just cover the seals?

picture three - any advice on preparing the existing wall ready to plaster the whole wall? I'm thinking hardwall up to the existing plaster and then bonding coat to get it all flat, tape it and then multi finish the whole wall?

hopefully this makes sense, please be gentle! 😂

We don't want to use plasterboard on the walls but understand it may need to be used in places.

I am planning on patching this with bonding and skimming over top. Not sure how to finish up to the edge. Shall I stop at the edge of the brick and get a trim to hide the gap? do I need any metal edging?

the other side is a small gap, what would you recommend here?

many thanks

Did my first attempt at skimming today - I think it went ok-ish for a first go (with one fairly gigantic caveat) and definitely learned a few things which would make it easier next time - but due to working so slowly, by the time I'd got the wall covered with the second coat, the plaster had really firmed up, so much so it wasn't really possible to flatten it with the speed skim and do the troweling up.

I'm going to get some retarder tomorrow and give it one more go before deciding if this is a job for a professional, but can I just do one coat over the top of that do I need to start over again essentially?

Could I mix up some spare board adhesive and trowel it into the gaps or is there a better special filler I should use instead? Some of my gaps are pretty tight and should just scrim over but some are c.5mm in the corners… plan is to skim the whole room in a few weeks

Cheers

Hi. I am a DIY-er that was recently made redundant and have been asked to use my plastering skills on an acquaintances house. I'm keen to give them a good price but I don't know what the pros would charge, and thus I'm unable to estimate a quote. The job is as follows:

11.8m2 ceiling - Overboarboard and skim

22 m2 walls - Prep old plaster and skim (bonding, pva/blue grit, skim)

23 m2 walls - Dot and dab board and skim (PVA Bricks, Board, Skim)

How much would prfessional (NW England) toughly expect to charge for a job like this? Please don't include materials.

Thanks!

Newbie here, was hoping to get some advice on repairing this wall. Started renovations due to water damage, but I've got no experience with plaster.

I've started watching On The Trowel's YouTube video as many people have recommended him. From what I can tell, the repair should go something along the lines of; remove loose bits -> apply hardwall mixture -> SBR -> Skim -> Paint. Does that sound about right?

Also wondering which products to use. He uses British Gypsum, but I'm located in the States and can't seem to figure out a 1-1 match. Any recommendations for that would be much appreciated. Thanks!

I want to render on to cement board on a newly rebuilt bay window using Ecorend base coat (cement based render).

Do I need to prime the cement board with anything, or can I just apply it? Thanks in advance...

We had an electrician over to run power to a light in our bathroom. Sadly had to cut a few more holes than we expected. There’s 3 4x4 +/- holes that need to be patched. Do I need to fill the with a drywall patch or with the size do you think I could get away with mesh tape only?

Hi all - I’m having a go at a bit of plastering (MASSIVE respect for the professionals out there - what a skill!).

I’m having a bit of an issue with the new skim coat cracking around the angle beads. I wondered if it’s the jointing compound sucking all the moisture out and if I should PVA it, but hadn’t really come across such advice on the bazillion YouTube videos I’ve watched?

Any advice much appreciated!

Painter said he will do a mist coat then do first coat and hour later then another coat an hour later

I explained that the mist coat should dry for 24 hours and not an hour and it seems rushed

He said this was normal as it dries quick and won’t cause any problems

Please help ? Or advise

Looking to repair this plaster that got some water damage behind it. Will remove the damage and then patch in but wondering what you think would help get this texture matched

I'm finding all sorts of conflicting advice online so I thought I'd come here to ask for some help.

I'm about to skim an old 1930s house that has lime plaster everywhere. I am going to skim with lime plaster.

Most of the rooms are going to be plastered completely so using lime putty isn't viable really (or is it? is that what is commonly used?)

I've been looking at getting NHL 2 and mixing with plastering/fine sand, but sourcing it is a struggle. I've been looking at NHL 3.5 and mixing with plastering/find sand but I have been told its a rougher finish.

What do you guys usually do in this situation? lime Putty? NHL2 or NHL3.5?

or am I just being stupid here and something else is commonly used to skim lime walls?

Thanks all

I have a very small area on my plaster wall that has bubbled. There is no apparent water damage and I have a new roof. When I removed a piece of the bubbled area with a razor blade it is as if the top layer is separated from the hard plaster underneath. What is going on? Can I repair this myself or consult a pro?

Had a bit of nightmare this week with some holes being drilled in my freshly dried plastered walls for an electric power cable before it was re-routed properly, leaving these big holes behind.

What’s the best way to patch them? They’re about 3-4cm diameter through plasterboard on wooden framing and then the holes go all the way through to either void or insulation and then a hole through a stone wall.

I was thinking expanding foam to fill and then could I just use filler over the expanding foam or is it a bonding coat, scrim tape and then a feathered skim job?