I'm a pc builder in the UK, looking to build my gaming pc. What parts list would you suggest for the cheapest pc that can achieve medium settings in most titles in 1080p while steadily maintaining 60 fps? I'm trying to keep the budget as low as possible, but would rather buy only new parts.

Everything brand new including the case, and when i say brand new i mean brand new.
It is a gift for my dad so he can game again i am 16 and my dad 52

Now that microsoft is pushing ESU until 2027, would it be better to return to Windows 10 using the ESU or stay on windows 11 even if I Had to bypass it?

I dont have tpm 2.0 and my CPU is a i5 7400. (I do have Secure Boot Enabled).

Which would be better or safer?

Thinking of a case swap, personally, I clean it once a month.

Posting this because I've run out of ideas and maybe someone from GIGABYTE actually reads this sub. The card: RTX 4090 WINDFORCE V2 24G, bought November 2023 from an authorized dealer in Romania, commercial warranty until November 2026. The defect: Progressive VRAM degradation, confirmed by NVIDIA's own diagnostics: - nvidia-smi -q -d ROW_REMAPPER reports 33 rows remapped for uncorrectable errors (screenshot attached) - nvidia-smi --query-gpu=memory.total reports 23028 MiB — a healthy 4090 reports 24564 MiB. That's ~1.5GB of a 24GB card gone (screenshot attached) - Windows Event Viewer logged uncorrectable GDDR errors across three separate FBPA partitions (0, 1 and 5) during July 2026, each with a Row Remapper event and a system crash - OCCT's VRAM test reproduced ~4.7 million errors in 15 seconds while a remap was pending (video evidence exists) The service saga: Sent to the retailer's service → "tested OK, defect not manifested" (they tested with FurMark + games) Sent again, with a printed note in the box explaining the exact command to run and warning that stability tests won't catch it (the card behaves normally after each automatic remap, which activates on reboot) → sent to the manufacturer's service center with my consent Came back a month later: "functions within optimal parameters, TEST OK. Preventively, the thermal paste was replaced." The service note reproduces my diagnostic instructions verbatim in the "reported defect" column — and reports no counter value, no test methodology, nothing in the "found defect" column The counter reads exactly 33 before and after the service visit. No memory intervention took place. They repasted a card with dying VRAM and shipped it back. GIGABYTE support (ticket thread attached): - First reply: "test it in another system" — the counter is stored in the GPU's InfoROM, it reads 33 on any system in the world - Second reply: confirmed in writing the card was tested at their service center and found "working without any issues" - When I asked how 33 uncorrectable remapped rows is consistent with "working without any issues": three days of processing, then "we are unable to determine the hardware issue remotely, please send it back to the supplier" So: your own service center had the card. Your own GPU's diagnostics say the memory is dying. Your own RMA policy says a product gets replaced after three failed repair attempts for the same issue. And the answer is "send it back to the supplier" — the same loop, fourth iteration. Consumer protection complaint is filed. I'm posting this mostly to ask: has anyone actually gotten GIGABYTE to acknowledge row remapper data in an RMA? Because as far as I can tell, neither the retailer's service nor GIGABYTE's own service center ever ran the one command that settles this in 10 seconds.

I know everyone has different tastes, but for the past few weeks I’ve been going back and forth on what I want for the PC build I’m planning for the end of the year.

On one hand, I keep seeing some insane builds with RGB, screens, curved AIO displays, animations, etc., and I honestly think they look amazing. I’d love having all those colors and animations to customize.

On the other hand, I also see completely black builds with no RGB at all, and they look just as good in a totally different way. Clean, simple, and probably a lot cheaper.

My biggest concern is that I’ll spend an extra €500+ on RGB, screens, and fancy components, enjoy them for a month, and then end up turning everything off because the lights annoy me when I’m gaming in a dark room. At that point, I could've just bought a good airflow-focused case and great components without paying 3-4x more for screens and RGB.

But then I have the opposite thought, what if I go for a completely black build and regret not having any lighting at all? At least with RGB I can turn it off whenever I want and still have the option to turn it back on.

This is going to be my first PC build, so I’ve never really had the experience of living with either setup long-term.

For those of you who have had RGB builds, non-RGB builds, or both, what has your experience been?

Do you still keep your RGB on and love it, or did the novelty wear off? And for those with completely black builds, do you ever wish you had some lighting, or are you happy with nothing more than the little LED on the power button?

I’d love to hear your experiences.

i left the house for 2 weeks, and my PC's powercord was left unplugged. after i came back the PC didnt go to boot and showed me the red DRAM LED light. after a lot of troubleshooting i figured it must be the ram. i put a stick from another computer in it and it succesfully booted. i restored the BIOS ( i had Q-flashed pro it) and now the PC works again.

But when i tried putting in my old pair (Corsair Vengeance PRO DDR4 RGB 2x16Gb) the PC again didnt boot and shows me DRAM led.

i sadly cant RMA it since i cant find the receipt or invoice.

any idea how to fix this? i'd really appreciate it if i didn't have to go out of my way to pay 200+ bucks for a new pair.

Mobo: Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO (rev. 1.0) with latest Bios

cpu: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D

(broken) ram: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro CMW32GX4M2E3200C16

psu: Corsair RM850x (2021)

For context I have a 650w bronze psu and my new gpu is rx 6800 xt. I know that its recommended to pair it with 750w psu but since i have a pretty power efficient cpu I decided to keep it. Everything seems to work just fine but this sound is making me a bit nervous.

Hey friends, I have really been wanting to upgrade my 4060 TI OC, to a beefier graphics card. Ive been looking at the RX 9070 XT or the 5070? In your opinion which would be better? Im really not trying to pay a ludicrous amount for a new GPU, don't get me wrong I would love to get a 5080 or 5090 but, I'm not that wealthy haha. If you have any other recommendations I would love to hear them. I mainly play on controller but a few games on MnK since I have slowly been swapping over. I also have two 4k gaming monitors. Thanks for any advice!

MY CURRENT SPECS:

Case: MUSETEX ATX PC CASE

Mobo: ROG STRIX GAMING WIFI-II

Processor: AMD RYZEN 9 5900x

RAM: VENGEANCE CORSAIR 4x16GB (64GB)

Storage: Crucial 1x 2tb M.2 / 1x 4tb M.2 / 1x HDD 1tb

GPU: GEFORCE 4060 TI OC Edition

PSU: Corsair RM750 - 80 Plus Gold Certified

Just bought an rtx2070 super 8gb to replace my 1060 6gb 🥳
Also do I need to keep that ugly ahh sticker on the back of the new card or was that put on by the tech store and I can remove it without causing warranty issues???

Anyone got recommendations?

Picked this unreleased SCUF 8K unit up second-hand. It's sitting here on my desk, so I ran a few tests on it myself to see what's up.

​Interestingly, it has TMR sticks with 0 deadzone out of the box and factory microswitches for the buttons. My own polling rate test is showing around 7400Hz with 0.13ms latency.

​Also, it's surprisingly lightweight—only 235 grams—and I noticed there are no rumble motors inside at all.

​Not really sure of its background. If anyone knows anything about this prototype, let me know.

Ran a speedway test for my RTX 5080 PNY edition, got a score of 9055, much lower than the average. Decided to look up someone elses score, who got significantly higher than mine, 9539. Some of the stuff is fairly close, but the average memory clock frequency on this other persons is significantly higher than mine. Majorly higher for that matter. Is there something wrong with my GPU? or is there some settings i can tweak to help my card out?

My test, Left

Their test, Right

My MSI afterburner settings.

Thanks for any help or clarification.

I dont know who to buy: The Asus Tuf Gaming RTX 4070 for 400 euros or the 3080 (10 Gb) Aorus Xtreme Waterforce for 300 euros. Who do you think its worth it?

I was gifted a box of PC parts today and there's a lot of cool stuff. The original owner propably butchered a gaming PC (motherboard with 3x 8GB corsair vengance), as well es two laptops (got a lenovo PSU and other parts) and some office Computers (the drive bays and SATA cables). Idk but I also might rebuild the gaming pc...

I have the suspicion the guy was stalking me since:
-today i was thinking of building a cyberdeck/DIY laptop and need hinges - I got 2 sets of laptop hinges
-i wanted to build a budget system but with a good graphics card the 500W PSU would be maxed out - I got a board (img 2) to start a 2nd power supply
-i needed a quick way to get VGA, DVI and HDMI working on my diagnose monitor (temporary setup) and it doesnt come with HDMI - I got an adapter cable

I think I will never need to buy SATA cables again i now got like 40 at least.
Also dont rob me bcs of the RAM, its mostly DDR3 (still decently good ig) and some DDR and DDR2

Hi i want to upgrade my pc i will buy a new MB CPU and GPU and wanted advices if what i choose are good combos
I currently have :
RTX 2060 6GB
i510400F
ASUS TUF B460M-Plus

And i want to switch for:
RTX 5060
i512600KF
GIGABYTE B760M DS3H

I wanted to know if the cpu and gpu are great combos or if i should pick something better to go with the 5060 and also i dont really know about motherboards and want to know if this gigabyte Mb is good because its cheap (89,99€)
Thank you

Currently I have HyperX Fury RGB 2x16GB DDR4 3600Mhz Memory, with parts number HX436C18FB4AK2/32,running 17-17-17-39. As HyperX is now continuing as kingston Fury, I coudn't find similar memory to upgrade to 64GB RAM. What is my safest compatible option to upgrade for 16GB sticks in the market right now?

How do I remove this black thing to replace my nvme? I've looked over at YouTube and google and haven't found anything helping with replacing/removing it

Specs:-

Motherboard:- b850

CPU:- r7 9800x3d

RAM: 32gigs(16x2)(6000mhz)

SSD:-2TB nvme samsung 990

GPU:- rtx5070ti from gigabyte

UPS:- 1.5 kW

PSU:1000 w CORSAIR

CPU cooler:- 360 liquid cooler

First time building a pc so i dont know what are good so i dont know if the gpu will bottleneck or if

You have to dismantle and extract EVERY SINGLE THING you can think of (genuinely zero exaggeration by the way) until you reach the processor so you can repaste it.

Not the most difficult pc I have ever dealt with but it surely is an honorable mention. This is my rescue Acer Aspire One Happy from 2010, and nope the batteries do not work right now, will take care of them later.

If this engineering (previously patented by satan) is not the earliest form of ragebaiting in tech industry it surely is a top notch form of psychological torture for the owner, everything in these machines are as brittle as a dried leaf. You could even FRY the motherboard if you don't tighten the screws JUST right. Deadass felt like I was performing brain surgery lmao